tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42609498762991980502024-03-15T18:09:50.857-07:00Pork in the RoadLabrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.comBlogger560125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-59089139913558170302023-01-17T16:45:00.002-08:002023-01-17T16:45:23.427-08:00Travels with Martina Day 10 Part 2 : Strolling along the Champs Elysee<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">It is practically unforgivable, at least in my eyes (and that of Martina's certainly) that this series of posts about her European vacation have been left unfinished these past four years. Let me try and make amends and see how far I can go this time. It's 2023, surely our happy memories of that summer of 2019 are worth revisiting and writing about.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGsxR7yttCg/XwfIDgP9BeI/AAAAAAABos0/FgOmzn4cJLotDj0wfpIPyEtKyF9h-yvSgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140791.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGsxR7yttCg/XwfIDgP9BeI/AAAAAAABos0/FgOmzn4cJLotDj0wfpIPyEtKyF9h-yvSgCK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/P1140791.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After enjoying morning at the Van Gogh show at the Atelier et Lumiere, we decided to tick one more Paris must-see off Martina's list by taking her to see the Arc de Triomphe. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-InYqad-6RG8/XwfIXEFQA1I/AAAAAAABotE/ltP0UqrWrRgK92UMex2LRuue2BDgxsx0ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_162101.jpg"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-InYqad-6RG8/XwfIXEFQA1I/AAAAAAABotE/ltP0UqrWrRgK92UMex2LRuue2BDgxsx0ACK4BGAYYCw/w640-h360/IMG_20190718_162101.jpg" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This corner of the Champs Elysee where you can find an exit of the Charles de Gaulle metro station is always crowded. Having emerged from the metro, we did not feel like going back underground again to cross the avenue to get to the Arc. A stroll along the boulevard, while keeping sight of the monument seemed like a more reasonable plan .</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FWhIt2nxE2U/XwfIgoJ6F7I/AAAAAAABotM/qgEUnXBCar8jayYcpzu1WBar06MnHJbVACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140798.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FWhIt2nxE2U/XwfIgoJ6F7I/AAAAAAABotM/qgEUnXBCar8jayYcpzu1WBar06MnHJbVACK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/P1140798.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I had never been to Paris at the height of tourist season -- our previous visits had always been in the winter when the crowds were sparser. It was fun to see so many people, everyone seemed to be taking photos and selfies, Martina had to get into the act. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yIWTEhAzUIM/XwfIt8KPrvI/AAAAAAABotg/WCg2I43aJ94a_EijEdbiOYLnXWeYuPc9QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140805.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yIWTEhAzUIM/XwfIt8KPrvI/AAAAAAABotg/WCg2I43aJ94a_EijEdbiOYLnXWeYuPc9QCK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/P1140805.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I asked Martina to pose in front of the Louis Vuitton main store -- who knows, maybe one of these days she will be back to get her very own LV purse. In the meantime, her own shoulder bag has a certain </div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>je ne</i> <i>sais quoi,</i> don't you think?</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJqZu7MuTW4/XwfIzsB1z2I/AAAAAAABotw/xyJByWkNzkMddNH7ItLDeQt0M3DEAI0ZwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140807.jpg"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJqZu7MuTW4/XwfIzsB1z2I/AAAAAAABotw/xyJByWkNzkMddNH7ItLDeQt0M3DEAI0ZwCK4BGAYYCw/w640-h360/P1140807.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The iconic and classic brasserie, Le Fouquet's is a most popular meeting place along the boulevard.</div><div style="text-align: left;">You can't miss its bright red awning. Today the outdoor tables are all full and this being Paris you can sit and order an espresso and people watch for an hour or two without being shooed away.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e7a_z7loMzE/XwfI3xV6PYI/AAAAAAABot4/aS_xBgieAgMACfzTD5QJatgZLkWIPG1MQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140809.jpg"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e7a_z7loMzE/XwfI3xV6PYI/AAAAAAABot4/aS_xBgieAgMACfzTD5QJatgZLkWIPG1MQCK4BGAYYCw/w640-h408/P1140809.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Quelle surprise!</i> If an outdoor table at Le Fouquet's is not possible, there is a small kiosk a few steps away, selling Fouquet's crepes et glaces. The perfect treat on a summer afternoon! </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6hrwo1fEkhE/XwfI_8ZPPpI/AAAAAAABouE/KPBIhYEStfsD1ET2m6IHS74xjxYSfnQOwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_170057.jpg"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6hrwo1fEkhE/XwfI_8ZPPpI/AAAAAAABouE/KPBIhYEStfsD1ET2m6IHS74xjxYSfnQOwCK4BGAYYCw/w640-h360/IMG_20190718_170057.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A vacant wooden bench magically materialized! Now we could enjoy our cones and crepes and take a much welcome break.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CcCLg2vGAZ4/XwfJKD2CCEI/AAAAAAABouc/ALOBTXdC-24clBolTpIoPptytvRfyYOiACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_174306.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CcCLg2vGAZ4/XwfJKD2CCEI/AAAAAAABouc/ALOBTXdC-24clBolTpIoPptytvRfyYOiACK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/IMG_20190718_174306.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">An eight year old can only take so much of strolling and window shopping, even if it is along the most iconic shopping avenue in the world. After a few hours, it was probably time to call it a day and head back to the apartment. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IvRa9ENIJ4g/XwfJIk77asI/AAAAAAABouU/d-2uC-ORJEUpqC6VY6RpHzo62ErDXjomACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140799.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IvRa9ENIJ4g/XwfJIk77asI/AAAAAAABouU/d-2uC-ORJEUpqC6VY6RpHzo62ErDXjomACK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/P1140799.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">Just before we disappeared underground again, to take yet another metro ride, Martina pointed out this sign to me ... ah yes, <i>on aime Paris!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b>Traveling with Kids Tip #11</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Kids don't really enjoy shopping, specially "adult" shopping. The Champs Elysee may be the most famous shopping destination in the world but try explaining that to an eight year old! Buy the child a special treat before you shop and you can make the time more pleasant she waits while you get your own shopping done. And please, don't shop till the child drops. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-77165599622237229492021-01-31T04:38:00.000-08:002021-01-31T04:38:05.451-08:00Travels with Martina Day 10 Part 1 - Starry starry night at Atelier des Lumieres<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /><div style="text-align: left;">Some of the world's best and most famous pieces of art can be found in <i>Paris</i> -- the museums are reason enough to visit the city. Unfortunately, they have also become so crowded during peak tourist season as we experienced in our visit to the <i>Louvre</i>. Today I had another art themed encounter planned, maybe it would erase the disappointment of the <i>Louvre </i>visit from Martina's mind. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hAcaF8ifsIc/XwfDjue3nQI/AAAAAAABopg/QlAZHynzVQchy12xnrTfGlVx5HelR109wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_112145.jpg"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hAcaF8ifsIc/XwfDjue3nQI/AAAAAAABopg/QlAZHynzVQchy12xnrTfGlVx5HelR109wCK4BGAYYCw/w640-h360/IMG_20190718_112145.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From our metro "base" of <i>Filles du Calvaire </i>on Metro Line <i>8</i>, it was a few blocks walk to the <i>Republique</i> station to catch Line <i>3 </i>which brought us quickly to our designated stop -- <i>Rue Saint-Maur</i>. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I0Trw8frP_s/XwfDnPljyKI/AAAAAAABopo/po8ueOvgvBwnmH89tlp87I7pj_DMA-ePwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_112540.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I0Trw8frP_s/XwfDnPljyKI/AAAAAAABopo/po8ueOvgvBwnmH89tlp87I7pj_DMA-ePwCK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/IMG_20190718_112540.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Thank goodness for an escalator, it certainly saved us quite a climb up the stairs!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OX7x_2pB7IM/XwfDsF3JNaI/AAAAAAABopw/-E7gexWWQb4RNVU6EvDKkqh12OGcBoytwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190718_112648.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OX7x_2pB7IM/XwfDsF3JNaI/AAAAAAABopw/-E7gexWWQb4RNVU6EvDKkqh12OGcBoytwCK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/IMG_20190718_112648.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Rue Saint-Maur </i>is in the <i>11th arr</i>. Our apartment in <i>Rue de Turenne</i> in the <i>haut Marais</i> (upper <i>Marais</i>) is in the <i>4th arr </i>but because of the circular way the <i>arrondissements </i>of <i>Paris </i>are laid out, the<i> 4th </i>and the <i>11th </i>are just beside each other. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-td9C-haV4g0/YBZ2nsjHl_I/AAAAAAABvU0/VLUpVprJiPginJa2JIfZi60zPGmQ_qh_ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/paris-arrondissements-map-and-guide-4136464_FINAL-5c7ed78bc9e77c0001e98f37.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-td9C-haV4g0/YBZ2nsjHl_I/AAAAAAABvU0/VLUpVprJiPginJa2JIfZi60zPGmQ_qh_ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/paris-arrondissements-map-and-guide-4136464_FINAL-5c7ed78bc9e77c0001e98f37.png" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>This map gives you an idea of how the city has been planned. As you can see, we really could have just walked all the way from <i>4th arr </i>to the <i>11th</i>. It would probably have taken us <i>20 </i>minutes. <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Today's excursion was to<i> Atelier des Lumieres. </i>Situated in an old foundry dating back to 1835, it has been converted into a digital art center. From a space dedicated to producing cast iron parts for the French navy and railway, the space now houses a popular destination -- both for locals and tourists alike. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Atelier des Lumieres</i> mounts digital shows projecting famous works of art on its huge and cavernous interiors. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div>This season's main show <i>"Starry Night"</i> is all about <i>Vincent Van Gogh</i> -- his rich and bold style makes the perfect leap to the digital world. Projected on immense space, the colors seem more vivid, the strokes more masterful.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>
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As a former foundry, the interior of <i>Atelier des Lumieres </i>is huge -- the space has been completely hollowed out -- no pillars or posts to mar the mesmerizing show of art that is digitally projected onto every available inch of space. You are absorbed into a world that <i>Van Gogh </i>painted.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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The images are not static -- they zoom in and out, slide and glide all around you. We are drenched by these vivid blues -- this must have been how they looked right after <i>Van Gogh</i> put down his brush.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UqnAeGq2q4Q/XwfFJwUfWGI/AAAAAAABoqo/oLB4wIpMwsExWrhFHUS9PVouBbR-IfXnwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140746.jpg"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UqnAeGq2q4Q/XwfFJwUfWGI/AAAAAAABoqo/oLB4wIpMwsExWrhFHUS9PVouBbR-IfXnwCK4BGAYYCw/w640-h360/P1140746.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Even the somber browns and grays of this glimpse into daily rural life is transformed by the sheer monumental size as it is digitally projected, ceiling to floor. You can almost feel the warmth of the fire and smell the aroma of food.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The forty minute show includes the work of <i>Van Gogh</i> from <i>1853 </i>to just before he died in <i>1890</i>.</div><div style="text-align: left;">His last days spent in the small town of <i>Auvers sur Oise </i>was a prolific time -- he painted over <i>70 </i>paintings in less than three months. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gznh8_Xpq_k/XwfFR5h2DcI/AAAAAAABoq8/AT09PsuM0wQ3J1lfDN8Zji8rnZKSjLCngCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140743.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gznh8_Xpq_k/XwfFR5h2DcI/AAAAAAABoq8/AT09PsuM0wQ3J1lfDN8Zji8rnZKSjLCngCK4BGAYYCw/w360-h640/P1140743.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Martina </i>was completely captivated by the show. While we walked around early on, the experience can be overwhelming. The best thing to do is to claim a space amidst the crowd, sit and allow yourself to be transported into a world as <i>Van Gogh </i>saw it and as he painted it. </div><div style="text-align: left;">And yes, for a brief while, even believe that you are a part of the painting. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>"Dreamed Japan - images of a floating world</i>" is the brief <i>10 </i>minute show that immediately follows </div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Starry Night. Van Gogh</i> himself was enchanted by <i>"japonisme" </i>and often said that he derived much inspiration from<i> Japanese </i>art. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Japanophiles</i> will love this show -- and will recognize <i>Hokusai's </i>giant waves.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Japan's</i> iconic symbols have the audience enraptured -- fierce <i>samurai,</i> <i>kimono</i> clad <i>geisha</i>, showers of <i>sakura </i>-- this is <i>Japan </i>that people dream about.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Cats turn into people, people turn into <i>yokai </i> -- spirits that inhabit the dark forests of Japanese folklore.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A <i>sensu</i> fan unfolds and a shower of cherry blossoms fills the venue. Oh so magical! I found myself suddenly missing <i>Kyoto ...</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Hundreds of thousands of paper lanterns against a midnight blue sky signalled the end of the show.</div><div style="text-align: left;">They floated everywhere, enveloping us, leaving us dazed by the spellbinding beauty of both shows.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">When you come to Paris, this is a place you must not miss. It's very easy to reserve and book online. </div><div style="text-align: left;">It's not expensive -- a full priced ticket cost <i>15 euros </i>per person.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Ateliere des Lumieres </i>through its <i>Art En Immersion </i>program reaches out to children with disabilities, illnesses or are socially excluded, providing an experience that can get them in touch with their creativity. It's nice to know that the price of your admission goes in part to a worthy cause such as this. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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<i>Alors</i>, another <i>boutique de souvenirs</i>! The gift shop is well stocked with art books, knick knacks and all sorts of unique, creative and irresistible things. <i>Martina</i> managed to find this book on paintings transformed into <i>anime </i>art. It was the perfect finale to this amazing, art filled day.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Traveling with Kids, Tip #10</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">The trick to getting the child to enjoy (and accept) a "learning and educational experience" is to take it out of the box. The <i>Atelier des Lumieres</i> that showcased the genius of <i>Vincent Van Gogh</i>, translated into an immersive and interactive platform greatly appealed to Martina -- very much a child of the digital age. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-4096220634390640882021-01-30T23:41:00.000-08:002021-01-30T23:41:23.389-08:00Picking Up where I left Off<p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It's amazing that I have not written anything since July 2020. A full half year (and more) has gone by and I have just about abandoned this blog. Can I blame it all to COVID, the lockdown, anxiety, stress ... but looking back, I didn't do much writing in 2019 either -- 9 posts in a year that was memorable and eventful! Nine posts was all I came up with. I hang my head in shame and remorse.</div><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YshhKbV8mPA/YBZcYMopaoI/AAAAAAABvUk/bXX_eC-SiX47hqKwNvBi1tjxSzRj81sCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200111_083703.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YshhKbV8mPA/YBZcYMopaoI/AAAAAAABvUk/bXX_eC-SiX47hqKwNvBi1tjxSzRj81sCQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/IMG_20200111_083703.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The grass and weeds have grown under my feet and inside my brain. I need to relentlessly attack it with a</div><div>grass cutter! Perhaps my new MAC Pro is the weapon to use. I must get back to writing again and hopefully these short paragraphs will be the spark I need.</div><div>I also owe Martina, my granddaughter -- the complete serialization of her trip to Europe with us in 2019. As she has been begging (and yes, bugging) me to sit down and work on this blog again, I shall finally do so. Good luck to me! Perhaps I should set a deadline for myself so that I stick to the plan -- check back with me in 30 days and I resolve to finish the European Episodes by then!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">D-Day March 2, 2021!</div>Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-1640717723600103882020-07-09T02:00:00.000-07:002020-07-09T02:00:35.104-07:00Travels With Martina Day 9 - Lost in the Louvre<div style="text-align: center;">
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The <i>Louvre </i>in <i>Paris </i>is the<i> grande dame</i> of all museums -- perhaps the most famous and well known of them all. Unfortunately, that fame also means it might also be the most congested.</div>
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In <i>2019</i>, more than <i>9.6 </i>million visitors streamed through its doors. That sounds crazy crowded<br />
but we were part of that horde.<br />
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Two months before we arrived in <i>Paris</i>, the security and reception staff at the <i>Louvre </i>had gone on strike, protesting the growing number of visitors they had to contend with on a daily basis. </div>
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The strike lasted for a day or two -- it seemed more of a symbolic protest than a real work stoppage but it still had me worried. Should we even chance a visit? </div>
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However, it was <i>Martina</i> and <i>Tsirol's </i>first time in <i>Paris </i>so a visit to the <i>Louvre</i> was a must!</div>
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By the time we arrived in Paris in July, tickets were no longer being sold for "walk-ins". We had to book and buy our tickets for a specific time slot a month ahead. When we arrived at the museum, we had to brave the long queues due to the strict security controls and very few security equipment and security personnel -- they all looked so harried and stressed, I could understand why they went on strike!</div>
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It was a madhouse inside -- dutifully, we tried to see the top attractions but everyone had the </div>
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same idea. <i>Martina </i>did get a quick glimpse of the <i>Venus de Milo</i>, albeit from afar. </div>
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<i>"She has no arms, Lola!" </i></div>
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Despite the crowds, <i>Martina </i>did try to entertain herself. "Why aren't they wearing clothes, <i>Lola</i>"?</div>
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Hmmm, because they're angels and angels don't wear clothes!</div>
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Next up, the Winged Victory. <i>Martina </i>was no longer amused at the crowds jostling her as <br />I made her stand still for a photo. </div>
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We had hoped to see the <i>Mona Lisa</i> but the lines were unbelievable! The escalators going up to the salon where the painting was had been stopped just so that people could stand in line. We took one look at the line reaching up to 3 floors and decided to pass -- </div>
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<i>Je sui desole Madame Mona, mais a la prochaine fois!</i></div>
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It was a pity that <i>Martina's </i>first visit to the <i>Louvre</i> did not fare so well. I was happy though that she was impressed by the architecture and the overall grandness of the place. She definitely appreciated the benches conveniently placed for tired and bedraggled tourists to rest on.</div>
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Thank goodness for the nearly empty Department of Egyptian Antiquities! No crowds here and</div>
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the many different examples of Egyptian art and artefacts proved to be fascinating for an<i> 8 </i>year old. She finally enjoyed this one experience at the <i>Louvre</i>!</div>
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The <i>Louvre</i> is so vast -- end to end, the galleries and rooms are over<i> 13 </i>kilometres in length.</div>
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You could walk through it without stopping to look at anything and it would still take you several hours to do so. We stayed four hours but it seemed as if we spent most of the time dodging and finding our way through the crowds. </div>
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After the claustrophobic atmosphere inside the museum, it was a relief to be outdoors, amidst the spacious green gardens of the <i>Tuileries</i>. Our old friend the ferris wheel beckoned enticingly, </div>
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care for another spin?</div>
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But no, <i>Martina</i> was more interested in <i>le hamburger americaine </i>than riding the ferris wheel. Hamburger plus <i>nuggets de poulet </i>and <i>frites</i>! Walking through an overcrowded museum is hungry work.</div>
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Most of Martina's <i>frites</i> went to feed the pigeons. I think this was the real reason why she wanted </div>
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to eat here -- she wanted to see her "friends" and share her lunch. </div>
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids, Tip #9</i></b></div>
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While I had forewarned <i>Martina </i>about the crowds at the <i>Louvre</i>, we were still unprepared for the sheer volume of visitors -- most of them jostling, rushing, taking selfies, pushing and shoving. </div>
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In that kind of situation, it's good to find quiet spaces where the child can sit and relax and take a deep breath. We deliberately looked for empty galleries where she could still see art pieces without feeling hemmed in by the crowds. </div>
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An <i>8 </i>year old may not fully appreciate the <i>Mona Lisa </i>but mummies, statues of strange beasts and frolicking cherubs can be a lot more interesting. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-87911865588537599922020-06-11T03:03:00.001-07:002020-06-11T03:03:25.480-07:00Travels with Martina Day 8 Part 2 - An evening cruise down the Seine on Bateaux Mouches<div style="text-align: center;">
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While the <i>Seine</i> is famous as the river that winds its way across <i>Paris,</i> in reality it is,<br />
at <i>777 </i>kilometres long, the second longest river in <i>France</i> and one of the major waterways<br />
of Europe. While it may take some difficulty to sail down the entire length of the river, <br />
a short cruise down the Seine is one of <i>Paris'</i> more worthwhile "tourist traps". <br />
You have to do it at least once.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWE7PlRxNmk/XteH3hxXAYI/AAAAAAABnRI/LI-N9rR_yPY7LnIC6_u6YAlubyQgW2b2wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_205048.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWE7PlRxNmk/XteH3hxXAYI/AAAAAAABnRI/LI-N9rR_yPY7LnIC6_u6YAlubyQgW2b2wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_205048.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Since it was <i>Martina</i> and <i>Tsirol's</i> first visit -- we did the <i>Seine River Cruise</i> of <i>Bateaux Mouches</i>.</div>
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There are different cruises to choose from ... lunch, cocktail, dinner and and dancing cruises. </div>
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Most are expensive and except for the usual overpriced tourist meal, you see the same<br />
views anyway. <br />
We opted for the no-frills<i> 70</i> minute cruise and chose an <i>8:30 p.m.</i> sailing time. <br />
In summer, the sun sets past <i>9 p.m.</i> and we wanted to see the <i>Eiffel Tower </i>lit up against a dark sky.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InHj-85lSvI/XteIDWpyHwI/AAAAAAABnRQ/1Uu2_SuxZhg4Fwbny3-YLquRxzJMC10AgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_210412.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InHj-85lSvI/XteIDWpyHwI/AAAAAAABnRQ/1Uu2_SuxZhg4Fwbny3-YLquRxzJMC10AgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_210412.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The boats are parked at the <i>Bateaux Mouches' </i> dock by the <i>Pont de l' Alma</i>. It turns around and heads the other direction, going towards <i>Notre Dame </i>and passing through seven bridges along the <i>Seine</i>. </div>
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It was a gorgeous summer evening -- the heat had dissipated and it was nice and breezy on the open deck. While there were many tourists taking the cruise, the boats are big enough that you can claim your own little corner where you can watch <i>Paris</i> go by.</div>
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I felt a slight pang of regret as we passed by the <i>Musee d'Orsay.</i> It was not on our itinerary for </div>
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this trip as we thought <i>Martina </i>may not enjoy spending too much time inside museums. </div>
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For me though, this a must see when you go to <i>Paris</i> -- I find it much more manageable </div>
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than the <i>Louvre.</i></div>
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Speaking of which -- across the <i>Musee d'Orsay</i> on the right bank is the venerable <i>Louvre</i>, perhaps </div>
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the most well known museum in the world. The <i>Pont du Carrousel </i>which spans the Seine links the two great museums to each other. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GgAhM2z36lY/XuHTkcjyewI/AAAAAAABnn4/zm_jtkuS9Cg_5rr9M_Sa7lTPEpEsFcT8ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_211831.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GgAhM2z36lY/XuHTkcjyewI/AAAAAAABnn4/zm_jtkuS9Cg_5rr9M_Sa7lTPEpEsFcT8ACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_211831.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our boat glides slowly towards <i>Pont au Change</i>, in the distance you can catch a glimpse of </div>
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the <i>Notre Dame</i>. Look, my initials are carved on the bridge! </div>
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Sunset softened the outlines of the Cathedral -- even with the damage from the fire, it stood </div>
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majestic and graceful in the fading light. Just beyond <i>Notre Dame</i>, the boat would make a </div>
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u-turn back towards the <i>Bateaux Mouches </i>dock.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82Lu9m9tqro/XuHWmaEP0FI/AAAAAAABnos/dZUiG2VBNFIcNqVs0fZwc2CISZEi_z-7gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_211404.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82Lu9m9tqro/XuHWmaEP0FI/AAAAAAABnos/dZUiG2VBNFIcNqVs0fZwc2CISZEi_z-7gCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_211404.jpg" width="360" /></a><br />
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As the boat headed towards <i>Pont de l'Alma </i>I looked back at <i>Place Louis Aragon</i>, </div>
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the northern tip of<i> Ile Saint-Louis, </i>one of two natural islands on the <i>Seine </i>(the other </div>
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one is the slightly larger <i>Ile de la Cite</i> on which the <i>Notre Dame </i>stands). </div>
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<i>Place Louis Aragon </i>was crammed with tourists. Many were picnicking - wine glasses </div>
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were raised to us in various toasts. </div>
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<i>Jay </i>and I usually walked here during our previous visits -- in the winter, it's very cold and </div>
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no one is hardly ever around. It's a good place to sit and enjoy a view of the <i>Seine</i>.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p7hYixHmNbw/XteJIzwC-QI/AAAAAAABnSQ/4rl7PuisXUMzsoryUcyfGip69FCOYT_bQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_212209.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p7hYixHmNbw/XteJIzwC-QI/AAAAAAABnSQ/4rl7PuisXUMzsoryUcyfGip69FCOYT_bQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_212209.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We would have wanted to take a photo with the pilot but he was too busy steering!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tTkHpUwoaV8/XuHW7JmG5cI/AAAAAAABno4/g1psXhIDTw0lE0SIQH5uWl0X7O4HCqSMACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_214416.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tTkHpUwoaV8/XuHW7JmG5cI/AAAAAAABno4/g1psXhIDTw0lE0SIQH5uWl0X7O4HCqSMACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_214416.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So many riverboats of all sizes line the banks of the <i>Seine</i>. Some are restaurants or cafe/bars and there are even houseboats for rent. Imagine spending your vacation on a boat and waking up </div>
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on this lovely river every morning! </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WNuMNVWccsc/XuHTnsexWAI/AAAAAAABnoA/JTcWRQiwSxkrBbafMPcsCFoGhP3zH1rpwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_214850.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WNuMNVWccsc/XuHTnsexWAI/AAAAAAABnoA/JTcWRQiwSxkrBbafMPcsCFoGhP3zH1rpwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_214850.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We spied the <i>Eiffel Tower </i>in the distance and oh no! It was still unlit and it was almost <i>10 p.m.</i> </div>
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Would <i>Martina</i> get a chance to see the lights of the Eiffel Tower? </div>
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Perhaps we should have opted for a later sailing time, but then we would not have seen the </div>
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landmarks on the right and left banks.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvySVdlIvok/XteJhb0RdXI/AAAAAAABnS4/5XTLN91pcx81mdAcTiXGq5WUE6JPsQIDQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_215757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvySVdlIvok/XteJhb0RdXI/AAAAAAABnS4/5XTLN91pcx81mdAcTiXGq5WUE6JPsQIDQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_215757.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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The boat passed the Tower before it turned around again to park. </div>
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And yes, finally just as we passed it, the lights turned on! <i>Merci boucoup, M. Eiffel</i>!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PwHuQ_dBo4o/XteJiBOthJI/AAAAAAABnTA/IngwN7RJ7NsUo6du6Hf7HP5L-inLkoSGwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140669.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PwHuQ_dBo4o/XteJiBOthJI/AAAAAAABnTA/IngwN7RJ7NsUo6du6Hf7HP5L-inLkoSGwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1140669.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We disembarked and walked back towards the <i>Alma Marceau </i>metro stop that would whisk us back </div>
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to the apartment. It had been a most pleasant evening with <i>Bateaux Mouches </i>-- </div>
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after all, what better way to spend a summer evening than to take a boat down the <i>Seine</i>?</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zS92WINxbs8/XuHUdmGpNaI/AAAAAAABnog/LM2S4zZow9soJggdFOAuhIpNXIkXWAGNgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140671.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zS92WINxbs8/XuHUdmGpNaI/AAAAAAABnog/LM2S4zZow9soJggdFOAuhIpNXIkXWAGNgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1140671.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Oops, one last stop before we headed home. The crepe kiosk was doing brisk business selling sweet crepes -- butter, sugar and chocolate. It made a tasty and quintessentially French midnight snack!</div>
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids Tip #8A</i></b></div>
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When bringing kids to a place for the first time, let them try the iconic experiences. </div>
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What may be a "tourist trap" for you, as a frequent traveler, may very well be exciting and </div>
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unique for the child who is seeing it and enjoying it for the very first time. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-84933404684282699912020-06-10T22:20:00.000-07:002020-06-10T22:20:42.980-07:00Travels with Martina Day 8 Part 1 - Paris for Kids at the Parc Zoologique and the Aquarium Tropical <div style="text-align: center;">
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A trip to the zoo may not be on a tourist's "must visit" list but if you have an <i>8</i> year old in tow, it is definitely part of the agenda. <i>Martina</i> loves animals and insists on visiting a zoo or an aquarium when she travels. In this case, we were lucky have done both and on the same day too. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-fGsN1mz0I/XS90FfYouNI/AAAAAAABWwA/WtWQz_OjjN8FqG_iqYzoiW-iCVk0qXc8gCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_111431.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-fGsN1mz0I/XS90FfYouNI/AAAAAAABWwA/WtWQz_OjjN8FqG_iqYzoiW-iCVk0qXc8gCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_111431.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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There are many ways to get to the <i>Paris Zoo </i>but via subway to <i>Porte Doree</i> station in the </div>
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<i>12th arrondissement </i>was the most convenient for us. From our apartment in the <i>3rd</i>, it took<br />
us <i>12</i> minutes to get to <i>Porte Doree</i>. And even better, from the subway exit, the Zoo was<br />
just a <i>600 meter </i>walk away.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwKvh7hlcgM/XuCIDp19f_I/AAAAAAABneU/FcgtBhGE9i4-bj7mUL78ZRjoA_YS0WJogCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_111732.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwKvh7hlcgM/XuCIDp19f_I/AAAAAAABneU/FcgtBhGE9i4-bj7mUL78ZRjoA_YS0WJogCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_111732.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We walked alongside the broad <i>Avenue Daumesnil</i>. The area seemed both commercial and residential with a lot of apartments and small neighbourhood cafes and grocery stores. </div>
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The photo above is of the <i>Square Des Anciens Combattants d'Indochine</i> -- which pays </div>
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tribute to the <i>French</i> who died during the <i>Indochina War</i>. </div>
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There are fountains of different levels which are barely visible in this photo and the square is </div>
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bordered by palm trees -- because you know, <i>Southeast Asia,</i> right?</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGl-nUi-wmQ/XuCIQB1LAtI/AAAAAAABneg/8BA6w8tMcz0a2qnZ5w89KqzIECTbF_h_wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_111847.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGl-nUi-wmQ/XuCIQB1LAtI/AAAAAAABneg/8BA6w8tMcz0a2qnZ5w89KqzIECTbF_h_wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_111847.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We walk a little further on and saw this statue which <i>Martina</i> wanted to have a photo of as she said it </div>
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"looked important". <br />
Upon further inspection, this is a monument to the controversial expedition up the Nile and into <i>Sudan</i> led by <i>Captain Jean Baptiste Marchand</i>, a <i>French</i> explorer from the late <i>1800s</i>. </div>
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Two symbols of <i>France's</i> questionable colonial past -- within a few hundred meters of each other!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nxRJA_zbhzk/XuCmnVZFO2I/AAAAAAABnh0/Lgo0VybM0-QGfUf4A9TXWLDHZI7xfY3rQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190716_112215.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nxRJA_zbhzk/XuCmnVZFO2I/AAAAAAABnh0/Lgo0VybM0-QGfUf4A9TXWLDHZI7xfY3rQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190716_112215.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The way to the Zoo takes us by the edges of <i>Bois de Vincennes </i>-- also known as one of <i>Paris'</i><br />
"green lungs". The word <i>bois </i>means woods in English. </div>
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<i>Bois de Vincennes</i> used to be part of a forest and now encompasses over <i>950 </i>hectares of trees, shrubbery and greenery with lakes for boating, beautiful gardens including the<i> Parc Floral de Paris</i>, an original <i>14th </i>century chateau, an aquarium, a Museum, Asian gardens, bike and running paths and of course the Zoo. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hL6b2G05PYY/XuChqSe7dFI/AAAAAAABnhQ/heMjXsGjKSUAZz89FvFmG_O_XLaxMFX4wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1140517.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hL6b2G05PYY/XuChqSe7dFI/AAAAAAABnhQ/heMjXsGjKSUAZz89FvFmG_O_XLaxMFX4wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1140517.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We're finally here! The<i> 600</i> meter walk from the station took quite a while as we enjoyed seeing </div>
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the sights along the way. The <i>Parc Zoologique de Paris</i> is set on <i>15</i> hectares within the <i>Bois de </i></div>
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<i>Vincennes</i>. </div>
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No advanced ticket purchase needed and there was just a short line at the ticket office.</div>
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Opened in <i>1934</i>, the Zoo was a much loved and well visited fixture in <i>Paris</i>. </div>
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A giant boulder rising in the middle was its recognisable symbol. After the <i>1990s,</i> not much </div>
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was done by way of maintenance and the Zoo was closed in <i>2008</i> for a major renovation. </div>
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It re-opened in <i>2014</i> and is one of the most impressive zoos I have ever visited. </div>
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The overall objective of the <i>Parc Zoologique de Paris</i> is not merely to display the various animals </div>
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but to have them live in recreations of their natural habitat. The Zoo is divided into<i> 5</i> bio-zones: <i>Patagonia</i>, <i>Africa</i>, <i>Amazon-Guyana</i>, <i>Madagascar </i>and <i>Europe</i>. </div>
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We start off at P<i>atagonia</i> as it is nearest the entrance.</div>
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It turns out that <i>Patagonia</i> is an ideal introduction to the Zoo as it includes a giant pool where the penguin colony lives and where they swim, splash and generally show off for the adoring crowds.<br />
Today the pool area was crowded with children who were there on a field trip.<br />
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We waited on the concrete steps for the crowd to disperse. <i>Martina </i>couldn't help but laugh at<br />
all of the seals' antics. </div>
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Finally, we got up close enough and made some new friends!</div>
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From<i> Patagonia</i>, we crossed a boardwalk into <i>Africa</i> where the terrain is mostly sand, scrub and trees. With the ongoing<i> canicule </i>or heat wave, the weather seemed to have been transported from Africa as well. </div>
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When you visit the Zoo, do look for the white rhinoceros -- it is the largest of the extant </div>
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rhinoceros species and is extremely endangered. We managed to catch a glimpse of one -- heartbreaking that there are very few of these animals left. </div>
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Whatever you say about zoos, they do their share in saving and protecting threatened species.</div>
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Feeding time at the Zoo! Just beside the <i>Africa</i> bio-zone is a park with picnic tables and kiosks selling sandwiches, snacks, beverages and even ice cream. We managed to find a well shaded bench where we ate our lunch -- <i>jambon-fromage</i> for the adults and<i> le hotdog</i> for Martina. </div>
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The antelopes are sunbathing -- I guess the<i> canicule</i> does not affect them so much.</div>
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Behind the zebra enclosure the huge boulder, the longtime symbol of the zoo can be seen -- this<br />
has been renovated and rebuilt from the original dating back to <i>1934</i>. </div>
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We headed off to the Great Aviary, located in the<i> Africa</i> bio-zone where we dodge flying birds and</div>
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marvel at the real life pink flamingoes.</div>
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We decided to skip the Birds of Prey Aviary -- perhaps the animals had not yet had their lunch and<br />
we did not want to take any chances. Instead we headed over to the giant Tropical Greenhouse in the <i>Amazon- French Guyana</i> bio-zone. </div>
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We enjoyed seeing the lizards, the snakes, the strange insects, the monkeys, the colourful birds </div>
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and yes this gorgeous <i>iguana</i> that seemed to glisten and glow under the heat lamps. </div>
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What a ham! This <i>South American</i> manatee swam up to us and stayed for a long time -- posing for his photo. This species lives in the rivers and swamps of the <i>Amazon</i>. <i>Ola cara! Boa tarde!</i></div>
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The people who run the Zoo are so clever -- to exit, you have to pass through the attractive and irresistible Gift Shop. There was no avoiding it -- <i>au revoir euros</i> ... it was nice to have </div>
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known you!</div>
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<i>Jay</i> and <i>Martina </i>can never pass up an ice cream stand! They had soft serve ice cream cones at<br />
<i>Akita Cafe</i> -- a small snack shop lying in wait outside the Zoo. It sits at the edge of the <i>Bois de</i><br />
<i>Vincennes</i> and has a seating area in the back that looks out into the park. </div>
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Halfway between the Zoo and the subway station is the<i> Palais de la Porte Doree</i>. <br />
If you like <i>art deco</i>, you should definitely visit this astonishing example of this architectural style.<br />
The incredible <i>bas relief </i>fresco that adorns the facade showcases the vast riches of France's colonies, a tribute to the powerful <i>French </i>Empire. </div>
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Opened in <i>1931</i> for the International Exposition, the <i>Palais</i> was the home of the Museum of the Colonies. In addition, it included a Tropical Aquarium, which still is in existence today and which was the reason for our visit.</div>
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The Museum of the Colonies has been renamed as the more politically correct <i>Musee National </i><br />
<i>de L' Histoire de L' Immigration</i>. To enter either the Museum or the Aquarium (or both)<br />
tickets are sold in the imposing lobby. From the looks of the beautiful floor tiles, I presume they<br />
were part of the original design.</div>
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The Tropical Aquarium occupies several levels and large tanks are recessed into the walls. </div>
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Each tank contains organisms - fish, mollusks, corals, etc that have common characteristics and thus are able to share an environment. I am fascinated by the amazing plants and corals -- more than </div>
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I am with the fish. </div>
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The Aquarium is as old as the <i>Palais</i>. After an overdue major renovation in<i> 1984</i>, there are now </div>
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<i>90 </i>spacious tanks with over <i>15,000</i> different organisms. </div>
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The habitats mimic those from the Pacific Ocean, the Indian Ocean, the Atlantic Ocean as well </div>
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as environments from rivers, lakes, swamps, brackish water and mangroves. It is an amazing display of richness and diversity. </div>
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The living, breathing corals are amazing. There are fluorescent, glow-in-the-dark species.</div>
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I am awe struck at the displays -- but also realise that many of these environments are under threat of destruction.</div>
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The Tropical Aquarium is very different from the other aquariums that Martina and I have been to -- where the focus was more on the fish and not so much on the habitat. </div>
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Beside each tank is a plaque that explains the habitat, lists down the organisms you are seeing -- in both French and English. </div>
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There are over <i>270</i> species of fish but I am more enthralled by the corals and the vegetation. </div>
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What an extraordinary world there is underwater -- and yet we are perilously close to losing it all.</div>
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The Tropical Aquarium is built on two levels in the middle of which is a fresh water enclosure</div>
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where there are three species of alligators. They can be viewed from above and iron bars are in </div>
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place so that no one falls in.</div>
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The pair of albino alligators seemed very peaceful -- sleeping side by side. They did not even </div>
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twitch the whole time we were observing them. </div>
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The Aquarium closes at 5:30 and as we hurried out, we said our <i>au revoirs</i> to this huge catfish </div>
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<i>A bientot</i> <i>M.</i> Catfish! See you at the next dive!</div>
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<b>Traveling with Kids Tip #8</b><br />
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When planning for kid friendly activities, the easy choices are arcades and theme parks. </div>
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But they weren't always around -- in simpler times, a zoo was an obvious first choice. </div>
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And it still should be today. </div>
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Introduce children to nature and conservation in ways that will both educate and entertain.</div>
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There are state-of-the-art, preservation and conservation minded zoos and aquariums in many </div>
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Please stay out of the arcade -- after all, there are so many of those back home. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-10766020213841727552020-06-02T06:30:00.001-07:002020-06-02T06:30:23.976-07:00Travels with Martina Day 7 - A Poilane breakfast, a Ride on the Roue de Paris and a Climb up the Eiffel Tower<div>
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Self catering is one of the pros of staying in an apartment versus a hotel. And<i> Paris</i> is ideal for a self-catering holiday. No matter where you stay, you will find a greengrocer, grocery, <i>boulangerie</i>, cheesemonger, <i>traiteur</i> -- food shops are everywhere!</div>
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On this trip the apartment we rented from our <i>suki</i>, <i>Vacation in Paris </i>was located in the upper <i>Marais</i>. A two minute walk from the flat was a <i>Poilane Bakery,</i> just one of its our locations in all<br />
of France. This shop is on <i>Rue Debellayme</i>, a short side street about <i>200 </i>meters long.</div>
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<i>Poilane </i>is one of the great French bakers -- three generations have been at the helm, producing (to my mind) the best sourdough bread ever. One whole<i> boule</i> weighs almost 2 kilos so people<br />
normally buy just <i>"un quart" </i>as you can see in the photo above. I also love their croissants and their<br />
<i>pain</i> <i>au chocolat</i> -- every bread and pastry is <i>tres bon</i>!</div>
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Today's breakfast included fresh fruit, slices from <i>Poilane's</i> sandwich loaf and packets of cold chicken breast and <i>speck </i>-- a cross between bacon and ham. <br />
There was a <i>Franprix</i> on <i>Rue de Bretagne</i>, just a few minutes walk away. We ended up<br />
shopping almost daily for ingredients and ready made salads -- it was all so convenient! </div>
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Today was Monday and after suffering from a sore throat and an on-again-off-again fever (we think she picked up the bug from the plane), <i>Martina</i> was finally well enough to enjoy her breakfast of milk and cereal. Eat up -- we have a long day ahead!</div>
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Since she had been cooped up in the apartment all week-end I felt that a day spent outdoors would be just what <i>Martina</i> would most enjoy. First up -- a quick subway ride to <i>Madeleine</i> from which we would walk to our destination. </div>
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The <i>Madeleine </i>station is near the <i>Jardin des Tuileries</i>, one of Paris' most popular and also its<br />
oldest garden.<br />
It links the <i>Place de la Concorde</i> with the <i>Louvre</i>. It's a favourite place for people to meet,<br />
stroll, enjoy a picnic lunch or a even a snooze. We walked on the side, along the tree shaded<br />
<i>Terasse des Feuillants </i>which is right by <i>Rue Rivoli</i>.</div>
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And here was my reason for taking Martina to the <i>Tuileries </i>-- the <i>Fete des Tuileries </i>was underway!</div>
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An annual summer festival, the <i>Fete</i> has all sorts of rides and attractions that Parisians of all ages look forward to. What can be more fun for a child than a carnival!</div>
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<i>France</i> was in the middle of a <i>canicule </i>or heat wave and it felt like we were back in <i>Manila</i> but with less humidity. <br />
<i>Martina</i> wasn't keen on any of the other rides but she wanted to get on the giant ferris wheel - the <i>Roue de Paris </i>which is usually on the <i>Place de la Concorde </i>but had been moved to the <i>Tuileries</i> for the duration of the <i>fete.</i> </div>
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A ride on the <i>Roue de Paris </i> is one of the first things I would recommend that you do on your first trip to Paris -- with or without a child in tow.<br />
The ferris wheel is <i>200</i> feet tall and you get a pigeon's eye view of this gorgeous city and all her famous landmarks, within the short span of a 10 minute ride. </div>
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Just behind <i>Martina</i> is the <i>Louvre </i>with the glass pyramid in front.</div>
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As the wheel goes up higher, you can see <i>Paris' </i>rooftops and in the distance, the <i>Sacre Coeur </i></div>
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<i>Basilica</i> atop <i>Butte Montmartre. </i></div>
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It's a beautiful, clear day -- just the perfect weather for a ferris wheel ride!</div>
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The <i>Roue de Paris</i> is secure and safe -- each of the <i>45 </i>gondolas is enclosed in clear glass which lets you see as far and as much as you can while you enjoy the slow and leisurely ride. </div>
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Beyond the greenery of the <i>Tuileries</i>, there is the unmistakeable sight of the <i>Eiffel Tower.</i> <br />
<i>Paris</i> has been able to preserve the beauty of her skyline by limiting the height of all buildings to<br />
<i>180 </i>meters or less than <i>600</i> feet. <br />
This means<i> Eiffel</i>, at<i> 320 </i>meters or <i>1,063</i> feet will always soar above all other structures in the city. </div>
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But even <i>Paris</i> has had to make concessions to modernity and a growing global and business community. In the distant background, you'll see the skyscrapers of<i> La Defense</i> -- a business<br />
centre a few kilometres out of the city. <br />
It's full of glass and steel buildings and would not feel out of place in any <i>American</i> city. <br />
We visited <i>La Defense</i> once -- one visit was more than enough.</div>
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I asked <i>Martina </i>if she wanted to ride the flying swings -- and silently breathed a sigh of relief when she said no. </div>
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There were many food stalls at the <i>Fete </i>-- serving snacks, drinks, meals. <i>Martina </i>decided she wanted chicken nuggets and <i>frites </i>-- how decidedly <i>un-french</i>!</div>
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We enjoyed the dazzling colors and the fun filled atmosphere at the <i>Fete</i> -- but the<i> canicule</i> was getting to us. Time to head back after a full morning under the sun!</div>
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Chestnut trees planted in symmetrical straight rows make for a lovely green space. <br />
You can see benches and chairs placed so visitors can relax -- read a book, have a quiet conversation, or just stare out into the verdant gardens. </div>
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The <i>Tuileries </i>is best enjoyed during summer when <i>Mother Nature </i>and the gardeners conspire together to create this sublime oasis in the middle of this busy city. </div>
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Summer flowers abound in the gardens. The lawns are immaculately manicured and laid out in geometric patterns. Aside from being <i>France's</i> oldest garden, it is also a <i>UNESCO World Heritage </i>site. </div>
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On the way out, we pass the <i>Bassin Octogonal </i>-- lined with green chairs, it's a favourite spot for relaxing and whiling away the minutes, or resting your tired feet. <br />
Since we've always visited in winter, we're used to seeing people sitting in the chairs, huddled in their winter coats, holding hot cups of coffee.</div>
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It's a big (and not really welcome) change to see sunbathers in shorts and skimpy tops, tanning<br />
(or simply burning) under the blazing summer sun. </div>
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From the <i>Tuileries</i>, we headed to the <i>Eiffel Tower,</i> getting off at the subway station of </div>
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<i>Alma-Marceau.</i> While it's not the nearest stop to the tower, we had plenty of time and decided </div>
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that a walk by the Seine would be a pleasant and scenic stroll for <i>Martina</i>. </div>
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Right outside the subway exit of <i>Alma-Marceau</i> is the gilded <i>Flame of Liberty </i>which has since become the unofficial monument to <i>Princess Diana</i>. It was near this spot where she had her </div>
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tragic accident in <i>August, 1997</i>. This little spot is now called the <i>Pont Diana</i>. </div>
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Flowers, notes and photos are laid at the foot of the flame -- even after many many years, the </div>
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<i>People's Princess </i>is well remembered and well loved.</div>
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We take a break by the fast moving waters of the <i>Seine </i>for <i>Martina</i> to hold up her little<br />
<i>Eiffel Tower </i>for a photo op with the real, much bigger version.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UFAu9eHSJEg/XS9x9XgE2AI/AAAAAAABWuc/K9ll1zooq_A0L0j7eNI0Pm_NsKfqGShCwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190715_165846.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UFAu9eHSJEg/XS9x9XgE2AI/AAAAAAABWuc/K9ll1zooq_A0L0j7eNI0Pm_NsKfqGShCwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190715_165846.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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I had reserved tickets for a <i>5 p.m.</i> visit so we skipped the horrendously long lines and had </div>
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just a short wait for the elevator. </div>
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The <i>Eiffel Tower</i> must be the most visited attraction in<i> France</i> so please don't come without a </div>
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pre-reserved ticket and time slot -- even during off peak seasons like winter, it is recommended to pre-book and buy. </div>
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There are several types of tickets available -- one is with lift access to the second floor or the middle part of the tower and the other is with lift access to both the second floor and the top of the tower. There are also cheaper tickets for just stair access to the second floor. </div>
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But who wants to huff and puff up and down those steps? </div>
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On my first visit, I did use the stairs but I was young and twenty and now I'm decrepit and sixty (plus). </div>
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In our previous visits, we had always booked tickets for the second floor -- as any tourist guide and local will tell you, the best views are from that vantage point.</div>
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You're high enough to see all of Paris as you walk around the north, east, south and west sides </div>
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but you're still close enough to recognise monuments -- oh look, there's <i>Place du Trocadero </i>across the<i> Seine</i> and yes, <i>La Defense</i> looms (unattractively) again in the horizon. </div>
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Go to the other side and see another view of <i>Paris</i>. On the extreme left is the gold dome of the <i>Church of Les Invalides</i>, where Napoleon is buried.</div>
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<i>Champ de Mars</i> is laid out before you and as if mocking<i> M. Eiffel</i>, the <i>Tour de Montparnasse</i> </div>
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stands almost directly across. </div>
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While it is shorter than the <i>Eiffel Tower</i>, its modern and sleek design is something <i>Parisians </i>love </div>
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to hate, saying it destroys the significant and historic lay out of their city.</div>
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But here's a tip I got from a local guide -- the views from the top of <i>Montparnasse </i>are much better. </div>
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Why? Because you can see <i>Eiffel Tower</i> and you can't see the <i>Montparnasse</i>! </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v7Lswsn1nwI/XS9x_inESxI/AAAAAAABWuk/otL6fFkC2TocBLef9yKh9SJMrzT872V7wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190715_173637.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v7Lswsn1nwI/XS9x_inESxI/AAAAAAABWuk/otL6fFkC2TocBLef9yKh9SJMrzT872V7wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190715_173637.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Before we took the lift to the top, <i>Martina </i>stopped by this tower made of <i>macarons</i>. </div>
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The lines to buy souvenir boxes of this typical <i>french</i> pastry were so long that we had to settle </div>
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for this photo instead.</div>
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Please, no graffiti on this most renowned monument -- and thankfully there was none. </div>
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I suppose violators will be thrown off the Tower.</div>
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We're at the top! There's a very expensive, reservations only fine dining restaurant, where a </div>
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set menu starts at <i>190 euros</i>. Perhaps we should have lined up for those macarons after all.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeidK9i7ju0/XS9yZbN1hUI/AAAAAAABWvM/gADA13IZlkIYNMXEogOyKB3q3mGMKJNYACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190715_183138.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeidK9i7ju0/XS9yZbN1hUI/AAAAAAABWvM/gADA13IZlkIYNMXEogOyKB3q3mGMKJNYACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190715_183138.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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It's our first time at the top of the Eiffel Tower! <i>C'est magnifique!</i></div>
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As expected, the views from the top are almost <i>Lilliputian</i>. But you can still admire the neat and orderly way the city is laid out -- and how all the buildings are almost of the same height and architectural style.</div>
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There are names and statistics of tall towers and buildings around the world. I'm not surprised to see an entry from the Philippines -- <i>Stratford Residences</i> merits mention. It is just <i>12 </i>meters shorter than the<i> Eiffel Tower.</i> </div>
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<i>Bisous, M. Eiffel!</i> We had a most enjoyable visit!</div>
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It's past <i>7 </i>pm when we finally set foot back on firm ground. The sun is still high up in the sky. </div>
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We would have to come back another time to see the Tower all lit up -- it's an amazing sight that </div>
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we don't want <i>Martina </i>to miss.</div>
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A few years ago, one of <i>Martina's</i> favourite book characters was the little french girl <i>Madeline</i> </div>
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from <i>Ludwig Bemelman's</i> book series of the same name. </div>
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On <i>"Come as Your Favorite Character" </i>day at her school, she came dressed as <i>Madeline</i>, </div>
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in a blue dress and a little blue cape. </div>
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We brought along that cape and had her wear it while posing in front of the <i>Eiffel Tower.</i> </div>
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Our little <i>Pinay Madeline</i> had finally made it to <i>Paris</i>!</div>
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Was it the memory of that book and <i>Madeline</i> that made <i>Martina</i> stop for quite a while to continue to gaze at the <i>Eiffel Tower</i>? </div>
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But I completely understood, and I knew how she felt. I too have found it difficult to turn away </div>
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from this view.</div>
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We took the subway back to the apartment from the <i>Place du Trocadero </i>so that <i>Martina</i> could </div>
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see what many say is the best view of the <i>Eiffel Tower</i>. </div>
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Even the thick crowds of tourists, vendors (not to mention probably the scammers and the pickpockets), could take anything away from the incredible sight of <i>Gustave Eiffel's</i> masterpiece.</div>
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It is way past dinnertime and bedtime for one tired eight year old. It had been a long and </div>
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exhausting day. </div>
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It's almost<i> 9</i> pm when we get back to the apartment. Fortunately, the take out <i>sushi</i> shop at the </div>
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corner was still open and trays of fresh sushi were available. It was delicious and familiar treat -- </div>
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we were all <i>faim</i> or in keeping with what we were having, we are all <i>onaka ga suita</i>. </div>
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A special treat for dessert -- a decadent pastry from the <i>Pierre Herme</i> boutique on Rue de Bretagne. This scrumptious creation was called <i>Sweet Pleasure </i>and was a milk chocolate pastry with pralines.</div>
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<i>Delicieuse!</i></div>
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Chocolate goes well with wine -- and whoever said that wine must be expensive to be good is </div>
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pulling your leg. This bottle cost just a little bit over <i>3 euros </i>from our neighbourhood </div>
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<i>Franprix </i>and it was one of the nicest white wines I had every enjoyed.</div>
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<i><b>A ta sante!</b></i></div>
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<i><b>Traveling with Kids Tip #7</b></i></div>
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Some kids may find that tourist attractions are not all that attractive -- gardens are boring and museums even more so. Try to look for an attraction where they can have fun and work off that restless energy -- run around a park, get on a carnival ride, go for a walk by the river. </div>
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Before we left, we also talked to<i> Martina </i>about the sights that she shouldn't miss so she was excited and ready for her <i>Eiffel Tower </i>visit. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-47917297430309604902020-05-28T03:03:00.001-07:002020-06-01T02:31:58.189-07:00Travels with Martina Day 6 - An Iconic Bastille Day in France Parts 1 and 2<div style="text-align: center;">
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When we were planning this trip to <i>Paris,</i> we were so excited to see that we would be in the city right on <i>Bastille Day</i>. We had never spent <i>Bastille Day</i> in<i> Paris </i>and looked forward to watching the parade, seeing the air show and the evening fireworks ... it would certainly be a wonderful and unique experience for Martina. </div>
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You know what they say about the best laid plans ... Martina was still feverish and just barely recovering from her <i>"malaise"</i>. We ended up watching the parade on t.v. which was just as well<br />
since <i>Jay</i> ventured out with <i>Tsirol </i>only to find kilometric lines leading to the <i>Champs Elysee</i> where<br />
the grand parade took place. I guess we had the better views after all. </div>
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Part 1 - An Afternoon at The <i>Palais Garnier </i></div>
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Part of our original <i>Bastille Day </i>plans had included an afternoon at the<i> Palais Garnier Opera House </i>to watch the ballet. The <i>Palais Garnier </i>was celebrating its <i>350th </i>anniversary and I had assiduously reserved and booked tickets for all three of us several months in advance. We always made it a point to catch a ballet or an opera each time we were in <i>Paris </i>and we were not about to miss this special day. </div>
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Sadly, Martina had to stay behind ... <i>merci beaucoup Tsirol</i> for child sitting that afternoon. </div>
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The <i>Palais Garnier </i>on <i>Bastille Day </i>was jam-packed. There were lots of colourful , costumed characters parading around. <i>Viva le France</i>!</div>
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It always gives us a thrill to be inside this gorgeous, historic building!<br />
The <i>Palais Garnier</i>'s main theatre is designed in a horseshoe style -- so everyone can see and, perhaps more importantly, also be seen.<br />
There are over <i>1900 </i>seats spread out over orchestra, balcony, boxes with the least expensive ones way up in the amphitheatre section.<br />
Here are a few tips: 1) the best seats are of course in the orchestra centre but 2) the balcony boxes also give very good views and 3) no matter what the performance, the <i>Opera </i>is almost always sold out, particularly during peak tourist season. So buy your tickets way in advance and through the official website https://www.operadeparis.fr/en<br />
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<i>Marc Chagall's </i> painting adorns the ceiling. It was unveiled in <i>1964,</i> initially to much criticism and controversy (hmm, just like the <i>I.M. Pei's </i>pyramid outside the<i> Louvre</i>). But now after more than 50 years, it's become very much a part of this grand centuries old structure and gives it a breath of whimsy and modernity. Suspended from the ceiling is an <i>8 </i>ton bronze and crystal chandelier that could make you a bit nervous, if you sat directly underneath it. </div>
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The <i>Palais Garnier's</i> season would be ending soon and we were fortunate to catch the very last matinee of noted <i>Swedish </i>modern choreographer <i>Mats Ek,</i> who came out of retirement to do three of his original creations -- a haunting and stark <i>Carmen,</i> a piece called <i>Another Place</i> and a new ballet performed to the familiar music of <i>Ravel's Bolero.</i> It was unique, slightly surreal and a fascinating change of pace for someone like me who is used to watching traditional, classical ballet.</div>
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As we made our way down the <i>Grand Escalier</i> -- I took a look back wondering if, like Lot's wife, </div>
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I might be turned into one of the bronze statues holding torches -- then, together with the </div>
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Phantom of the Opera, I could stay in this place forever. </div>
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The <i>Palais Garnier </i>is served by its very own subway station called the <i>Opera </i> -- what else? </div>
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The station is along <i>Ligne 3 </i>and connects to many other subway lines including <i>Ligne 8 </i>which </div>
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took us back to <i>Filles du Calvaire</i>, the station nearest the apartment. </div>
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Part 2 - A Evening of Fireworks by the <i>Seine</i></div>
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After the ballet, it was <i>Jay's</i> turn to stay home and child-sit with <i>Martina </i>while <i>Tsirol</i> and I hied </div>
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off to catch the traditional fireworks set off near the <i>Eiffel Tower.</i> </div>
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A perfect spot would have been <i>Trocadero</i> where we would be able to see it up close but it would have been too crowded. We opted to stay around the <i>Pont Alexandre III</i> bridge which connects the <i>Invalides </i>with the <i>Grand Palais.</i></div>
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The <i>Pont Alexandre III </i>is one of my favourite bridges that span the <i>Seine</i>. </div>
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It offers dramatic views plus there are big and beautiful statues from one side to the other.</div>
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It's photogenic, quintessentially French and it's a favourite tourist spot. </div>
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One of popularity's downsides is the ubiquitous graffiti -- here seen on the bare shoulder of one of </div>
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the bronze Nymphs of the <i>Seine, </i>as the bronze relief is called. There are two huge reliefs of nymphs on either side of the bridge, right at the centre of the arch.</div>
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On either side of the bridge, food trucks were selling all sorts of food -- we wouldn't go hungry </div>
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for dinner!</div>
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So many choices -- what would I buy? The benches lining the banks of the Seine were starting to </div>
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fill up -- and we wanted a good spot from which to view the fireworks. But first, we had to buy our food.</div>
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Aside from the savoury stuff -- there was a table selling all kinds of candies and sweets -- with a cooler full of ice cold beer. Dessert and drinks!</div>
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I could not resist! The aroma of sausages and chicken wafted all over from vendors selling sandwiches and grilled meats. </div>
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I finally settled on a very typical <i>sandwich de merguez </i>-- one you can normally find in Middle Eastern kiosks all over the city. <i>Merguez </i>is a sausage made of lamb with a spicy and hearty flavour. </div>
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So good with a bottle (yes, two) of cold <i>Kronenbourg</i> beer. In my defense, it was a small bottle.</div>
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We had arrived at the bridge at a little past<i> 7 p.m.</i> but in summer, the sun sets around <i>9:30 p.m</i>. </div>
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The moon was out and the lights along the bridge were fully lit but the sky was still too light </div>
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for the fireworks to start.</div>
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The temperature had started to drop and our thin summer cardigans were no match for the cool evening chill. Finally, just before <i>11 p.m.</i> the <i>20-</i>minute fireworks show began. </div>
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In truth, it wasn't anything that I had not seen before -- I am sure I have seen much better. </div>
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But it was <i>Bastille Day </i>and we were in <i>Paris </i>watching fireworks so what could be better than that? </div>
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And then, just as the show was about to wind down -- two gigantic hearts appeared on the night sky.</div>
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<i><b>Je t' aime, Paris ... je t' aime pour toujours. </b></i></div>
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<i><b>Traveling with kids Tip #6</b></i><br />
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It was disappointing for Martina to miss the Ballet but she was still not fully well. When things don't go as planned, explain to the child very well to lessen upset feelings. It also helped a lot that we had a friend who could stay with her while we were out. Before leaving, we made sure she had food to eat, books to read and games to play to keep her occupied and busy. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-6471104633205564752020-05-11T23:13:00.000-07:002020-05-11T23:13:01.105-07:00Musings on my Closet in the time of Covid 19<div style="text-align: center;">
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"I have nothing to wear!"</div>
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How many times have you said that -- usually in an aggrieved and anguished tone. </div>
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I used to say that often myself -- I would skim through my closets and look at every single piece with a critical eye -- too old, too passe', everyone has seen that ... all the excuses to justify a trip to the mall. And afterwards, there would be that self satisfied feeling that yes, I finally had "something to wear". <br />
After I retired years ago, I went through a massive closet de-cluttering, giving away work clothes that I felt I would never use again. But I also didn't really stop shopping -- this time, I felt I needed<br />
more casual, easy going attire suitable for my new status in life. Having given away so much, I felt justified in buying more new stuff.</div>
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With time on my hands during this ECQ lockdown, I decided to go through my closets and see what I had and if I really had "nothing to wear".<br />
I did a manual count of what I owned and found out that I had exactly 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants, 43 dresses and 7 skirts.<br />
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That means if I just put on a different blouse each day and paired it with any one of the pants or skirts in my closet, I would have at least 73 different outfits. Add the 43 dresses and I could go 116 days or almost 4 months without having to repeat a single look. </div>
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If I were a mathematician ( which I am most certainly not) I would be able to compute the number of combinations that 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants and 7 skirts would come out to.</div>
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There's no reason to ever think that "I have nothing to wear". </div>
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I would be happy to stop buying clothes in the future -- I can do all my shopping inside my closet. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-44468891849400648582020-03-21T20:21:00.002-07:002020-03-22T01:25:55.507-07:00Musings of Pets (past and present) in the time of Covid-19<div style="text-align: left;">
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If you are one of my 4 followers, you will probably have realised that I have been woefully delinquent with this blog -- posting only nine, yes NINE times last year and with only one post this 2020. </div>
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For those of you who write, you know about that little thing called writer's block? </div>
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I don't pretend to be a writer but I still claim it as a pretty good excuse.</div>
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These days, with social distancing and self quarantine-ing as the new normal, I find that I have lots and lots of time on my hands and no excuses not to sit down and try to write again.</div>
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I think I'll start off with some musings on how to keep safe and sane during these very challenging times -- unearthing photos of pets past and present to help me illustrate my points. </div>
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<b>1. Clancy says ...</b></div>
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It's difficult not to feel cooped up -- right now, everyone has to stay indoors and even for a retired person like myself, who does not have the day-to-day routine of dressing up, going to work, etc. it still feels like strange and restricting. A friend on Facebook said that now he knows what it feels like to be a "bilanggo" or a prisoner. </div>
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<b>2. But Haw Haw the carabao counters that ... </b></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">We are infinitely luckier than prisoners who are sitting in cells that are cramped and hot and yes, hotbeds of viruses. We may not be up and about but if we have gardens or yards or backyards, no matter how tiny, we can and should still go out and get some sunshine and breathe in some fresh air. </span></div>
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<b>3. Chuva was always ... </b></div>
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Sleeping. As the first week of self quarantine and lockdown ends, I am appalled that I spent most of my waking hours lying down and unawake. </div>
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<b>4. And Cheng was not much different.</b></div>
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I have tried to read my gazillion unread books but after a few pages, I would find myself drifting off to sleep ... again. </div>
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<b>5. Rosie has other ideas about being by herself ... </b></div>
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And if I wasn't sleeping, I was eating -- nibbling, grazing, munching. This definitely wouldn't do!</div>
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<b>6. But Chula somehow knows better. </b></div>
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So to stay awake (with my mouth closed) I have decided to plan -- what to do when this is over and we have remained relatively unscathed. What new things to try, where to go. And yes, this post is proof, I have made up my mind to get on that mental cycle and start writing again. </div>
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But in the meantime....</div>
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<b>7. Chuling and Clancy are making the most of the situation. </b></div>
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We've all been staying home and talking to each other, relishing time spent together, enjoying the peace and quiet. </div>
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<b>8. Rebus, Travis and Nero always knew what was important ...</b></div>
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Let's keep each other company -- get out of the solitary confinement of your own room, switch off the Netflix, turn away from social media and reconnect with each other.</div>
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<b>9. Patita, Scallop and Rebus believed that ...</b></div>
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If you are with family or friends during this time, you are very lucky indeed.</div>
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<b>P.S. This little fellow has something to share too ... </b></div>
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It may be trite but keep smiling, be cheerful and see that ray of sunshine hiding behind the clouds.</div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-14198429128303346022020-01-01T05:27:00.001-08:002020-01-01T05:27:09.974-08:00Travels with Martina Day 5 - Up Pic du Jer and saying au revoir to Lourdes<div style="text-align: center;">
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A comfortable 5.5 hour train ride away from <i>Paris</i> is the pilgrimage town of<i> Lourdes</i>, where we<br />
had opted to spend our first week-end out of the city. We wanted to give Martina a different experience, let her see something of the French countryside.<br />
Our first day was spent fulfilling our religious obligations. We received a precious gift from<br />
<i>Our Lady of Lourdes </i>as we were all able to take to the baths despite the long queues and thick crowds.<br />
The next day, we wanted to see a bit more of the town of <i>Lourdes</i> -- away from the ubiquitous<br />
and omnipresent souvenir shops. We had a good number of hours ahead of us before taking the afternoon train back to <i>Paris</i>.<br />
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<i>Hotel Angelic Myriam</i>, where we stayed is a good 2 star choice that is less than a kilometre's walk from the<i> Grotto</i>. The rooms were basic but clean and comfortable. Because of its location,<br />
the hotel is normally packed with pilgrims -- both of tour groups and families like us.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cjUKT00Bic4/XWY3_HNTo6I/AAAAAAABc3A/BX1XBbau7oETqOM9jjrV0aV3xqjIUWhygCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190713_082636.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cjUKT00Bic4/XWY3_HNTo6I/AAAAAAABc3A/BX1XBbau7oETqOM9jjrV0aV3xqjIUWhygCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190713_082636.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Our very affordable room rate included breakfast. I was expecting the usual large mug of coffee with some croissants, bread and jam but we were greeted by a generous buffet -- cold cuts, assorted cheese, cereals, yoghurt and even eggs and hot sausages. <i>Quelle surprise</i>!</div>
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For our morning excursion, we decided to visit <i>Pic du Jer</i>, a <i>1,000</i> meter summit that sits among the taller spires of the <i>Pyrenees</i>. To reach the foot of <i>Pic du Jer,</i> you can take a city bus from the <i>Grotto, </i>it's a fifteen minute bus ride through winding mountain roads. </div>
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The athletic and adventurous types can hike or even bike up the summit but for those who are time and fitness challenged, a ride up the<i> 100-</i>year old funicular is the fastest and easiest way up <i>Pic du Jer.</i></div>
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There are many compartments in the funicular and it was not at all crowded on this Saturday morning. Of course the first compartment is always the first to be occupied -- everyone wants that front row seat as the funicular climbs the mountain.</div>
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The way up is steep and gives you green, woody views. Enjoy the views while you can, as it takes just a few minutes to climb the <i>1,000 </i>meters to the summit. </div>
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Before we reached the station, we saw these cyclists trudging up the bike path. The reward for this thigh busting climb is the exciting descent down <i>Pic du Jer</i> where they can hurtle down the same path they just toiled on. <i>Pic du Jer </i>is a popular place for mountain bikers to conquer and there are regular <i>MTB</i> races on the 3 kilometre trail. </div>
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The views at the top are splendid -- just as promised. Down below are towns of the <i>Gaves Valley </i>which include <i>Lourdes</i>, <i>Tarbes</i> and <i>Pau</i>. On the left are the peaks of the Pyrenees mountain range. </div>
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If you will peer very closely, there are still some snow capped peaks even during summer. </div>
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There is a bench perched very close to the edge of the cliff. I gingerly hold on and take a seat. There should be a rail but that would mar the amazing view. I dangle my feet perilously close to the brink and am thankful that it would take quite a strong gust of wind to blow me off the mountain.</div>
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Aside from the funicular ride and the astonishing views, the top of <i>Pic du Jer </i>boasts of caves that go back to the Ice Age. There are guided tours during the day but we were an hour early for the first tour. A statue in front represents how the cave dwellers looked like, thousands of years ago. </div>
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The funicular was less crowded on the way down and we were able to get a good view from the first compartment. We passed another carriage on the way up - at mid point the tracks split into two to allow two cars to pass each other. </div>
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On the way back to the <i>Grotto</i>, no buses were in sight so we decided to walk. </div>
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Since the bus ride to <i>Pic du Jer </i>took all of 15 minutes, we thought we would be in for quite a slog. Big surprise -- there was a direct route back which was not even 2 kilometres long. </div>
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We enjoyed walking by the clean, swift flowing <i>Gave River </i>which also runs through the <i>Grotto </i>and which gives the valley its name. </div>
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<i>Lourdes</i>, at the foothills of the <i>Pyrenees</i> is just 1<i>45 </i>kilometres to <i>St Jean Pied de Port</i>, the </div>
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southern town of <i>France </i>that marks the start of the <i>Camino Frances,</i> the <i>UNESCO </i>World </div>
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Heritage route to <i>Santiago de Compostela</i>. </div>
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We saw markers along the road pointing the way for walking and even cycling pilgrims who </div>
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decide to incorporate<i> Lourdes</i> into their<i> Camino</i>. </div>
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I thought it was a gift -- a grace to see the familiar <i>flecha</i> or yellow arrows that are the symbol of the pilgrimage. They brought back many happy memories of the <i>Camino </i>which we did in <i>2015</i>.</div>
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All too soon, the open riverside vistas incorporated hotels and inns -- all of which are here to handle the tens of thousands of pilgrims who visit the <i>Grotto</i>.</div>
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So many of them line the riverbanks. Beside that white building, fourth from the left, is the staircase that led directly to our hotel. What a charming and easy walk that was!</div>
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Before leaving for the train station we paid one last visit to <i>Our Lady</i>. We climbed up the ramp to </div>
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the <i>Basilica of the Immaculate Conception</i> at the very top before we made our way own to the <i>Crypt </i>and finally to the <i>Rosary Basilica</i>. </div>
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I first visited <i>Lourdes</i> with my parents more than forty years ago. I did not think I would see it again but we were able to visit in <i>2015</i>, after we completed our <i>Camino.</i> </div>
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To be able to visit for a third time, to experience this serene and peaceful place once again is truly a blessing. I cannot think otherwise, I believe this visit is a gift from <i>Our Lady of Lourdes</i>.</div>
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Soon, we were back at the <i>Gare de Lourdes</i> to take our train back to <i>Paris</i>. </div>
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Many visitors come for just a quick visit, we are thankful we had a day and a half (although it felt much shorter than that!).</div>
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If there is a next time, it would be nice to stay a few days and spend more time both in the </div>
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<i>Grotto</i> and in exploring the delightful small towns and villages of the <i>Gave Valley.</i> Perhaps even venturing all the way to <i>St Jean Pied de Port</i>? After all it is probably just a couple of hours away by train. </div>
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The fast <i>TGV</i> train would take us back to <i>Paris Gare du Nord</i> in just over five hours -- </div>
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time enough to relax and perhaps even snooze in the comfortable and spacious seats. </div>
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This short trip to <i>Lourdes</i> was extra special because we had <i>Martina </i>with us -- we were able to take her to the baths and visit and pray at the Sanctuary.</div>
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<i>Merci beaucoup, Notre Dame de Lourdes</i>!</div>
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids Tip #5</i></b></div>
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Sitting in a train for over five hours for an 8 year old can be tiresome. Unlike in a plane, there are no personal video consoles. To pass the time and keep her from fidgeting, I made sure to point out interesting sights as we passed along -- windmills, wheat fields, quaint train stations, enchanting farm houses with lovely gardens -- sights she had not seen before. We also took a lot of videos of scenes along the way so she could show them to her parents once she got back home. </div>
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We also had a bag of snacks handy -- cookies and chips kept us from having to buy the overpriced items in the dining car. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-46140030660439268522019-09-24T23:39:00.003-07:002019-09-24T23:39:32.113-07:00Travels with Martina Day 4 - A weekend in Lourdes<div style="text-align: center;">
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With so many places to see and things to do in <i>Paris</i> and just two weeks to cram everything in, you may wonder -- why even go away for a week-end then? But I had planned a very special getaway, out of the city, on our first week-end in <i>Paris</i>. We would travel nearly <i>700</i> kilometres to the pilgrimage town of <i>Lourdes</i>, in the south of France. </div>
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The fast and direct train to <i>Lourdes</i> still takes a good five hours and it leaves from <br />
<i>Gare Montparnasse</i>, located in the <i>14th arrondisement</i>. The station, set inside a block long<br />
concrete building is squat and ungainly and utterly charmless. It is right across<br />
<i>Tour Montparnasse</i>, the modern and also charmless skyscraper that every<i> Parisian</i> loves to hate. </div>
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Trains depart from tracks located in Hall 1, one escalator ride up from street level.<br />
We took the <i>6:25</i> a.m. train and arrived well ahead of time. <i> Gare Montparnasse </i>serves the southwestern region of <i>France </i>so it was not a surprise to find a good number of early birds,<br />
all rushing for their trains. Aside from<i> Lourdes</i>, trains go to<i> Bordeaux</i>, <i>Brittany, Biarritz </i> and <br />
one can even travel all the way to the <i>French-Spanish</i> border where there are connections to<br />
<i>San Sebastian</i> and even <i>Lisbon</i>.<br />
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The <i>Lourdes</i> week-end was definitely not a spur of the moment plan -- I had booked our train tickets months in advance so we were able to secure first class tickets that were even cheaper than second class fares. </div>
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All aboard the <i>TGV INOUI 8571</i>! Wide and comfortable seats with charging docks, more than<br />
ample legroom, even wifi -- it was a long ride but a most comfortable one! Thank you <i>SNCF</i>!</div>
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The <i>SNCF </i>high speed trains run just as fast as<i> Japan's shinkansen </i>-- at top speeds of more than<i> 300 </i>kilometres per hour. Five hours passed in a literal blur of countryside vistas and glimpses of urban stations and soon, we arrived at <i>Gare de Lourdes.</i> To get into town, take a taxi or shuttle van, there are many just waiting outside the station.</div>
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For our one night in <i>Lourdes</i>, we stayed at the <i>Hotel Angelic Myriam</i> along <i>Rue du Calvaire</i>. </div>
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Located on a higher portion of the town, it is a ten minute walk down to the <i>Grotto</i>. <br />
An outdoor lift makes going to and from the hotel a whole lot easier and quicker. </div>
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We arrived in <i>Lourdes</i> at lunchtime and there was no doubt where I wanted to have my first meal ... at <i>Asian Delices</i> along <i>Rue Saint Marie</i>. This is a <i>Filipino</i> restaurant that has been in <i>Lourdes </i>for over a decade, bringing <i>Pinoy</i> cuisine to this quite distant part of <i>France</i>.<br />
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<i>Madame Gina Lat Rousset</i> is the chef and proprietress. You will be happily surprised to see that her restaurant is full of <i>non-Pinoys</i> enjoying chicken pork <i>adobo</i>, <i>lumpia </i>(vegetarian version available), <i>pancit</i>, <i>sinigang</i>, <i>bistek</i>, <i>lechon kawali atbp</i>. <i> Gina's </i>warm and welcoming personality makes everyone, regardless of nationality, feel right at home in her spacious and comfortable restaurant. </div>
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After lunch, time to head to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of <i>Lourdes</i>, a sprawling <i>51-</i>hectare complex that includes the Basilicas, the baths, the <i>Grotto</i> and several churches and buildings. Here are<i> Jay</i> and <i>Martina</i> in Rosary Square in front of the Rosary Basilica.</div>
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The <i>Grotto of Massabielle </i>is where Our Lady appeared to<i> St Bernadette</i>. Compared to the grandeur of the other buildings in the Sanctuary, the <i>Grotto </i>is very simple and has been left untouched as much as possible. The only additions are a plain stone altar and pews. <br />
There is always a long line of pilgrims at the<i> Grotto </i>but despite the crowds, it retains its air of solemnity and spirituality. </div>
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We wanted to take the baths at <i>Lourdes</i> -- something that I had not been able to do in my previous visits. The people at the information office were not very encouraging, they said that if the lines were too long, we may not be able to get in as the sick and disabled were given priority. <br />
But we discovered that there was a line, much shorter, specifically for children and their guardians so <i>Martina</i> and I were able to experience the baths after a not too long wait.<br />
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After our time at the baths -- thanks to the many volunteers from all nationalities who </div>
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It had been a long and tiring day and the excitement, the long train ride and the intense summer heat only worsened <i>Martina's</i> sore throat -- she was down for the count at the end of the day. </div>
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But we both agreed that the highlight of the trip was our amazing bath at the holy waters of <i>Lourdes.</i> </div>
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Being able to do so despite the extremely long queues and the peak season crowds was a gift -- bestowed on us by <i>Our Lady of Lourdes</i>. </div>
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids Tip #4</i></b></div>
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A religious pilgrimage may not be what an 8 year old would look forward to. But we made sure that even before we left, <i>Martina</i> knew about how Our Lady appeared to this young <i>French</i> girl -- only fourteen years old and not much older than her. If put in terms that they can relate to and understand, children will gladly embrace experiences they would normally not be interested in. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-85122742042959174672019-08-28T01:06:00.001-07:002019-08-28T01:06:20.230-07:00Travels with Martina Day 3 - Ile de la Cite, Notre Dame and Ile Saint Louis<div style="text-align: center;">
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On our first full day in <i>Paris</i>, we were still jet lagged and somewhat bleary eyed from our <i>24</i> hour journey. But still, we managed to drag ourselves out of the apartment to visit a few sites to give <i>Martina</i> her first real glimpse of our favourite city in the whole wide world. </div>
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You run into such interesting finds around the neighborhood -- <i>Papier Tigre </i>is a stationary shop in the <i>Marais </i>with such cool and distinctive items, all of them drool-worthy for stationary addicts (thank goodness I'm not one of them). Sadly, no photos inside please but anyone can pose beside the giant pencil outside. </div>
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<i>Paris' </i>Metro system is efficient and affordable (one fixed fare to go all around the city). The apartment was just a few hundred meters from the <i>Filles du Calvaire</i> station on line<i> 8.</i></div>
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<i>Jay's</i> favourite metro station happens to be <i>Cite</i> which is right in front of the <i>marche aux fleurs </i>(also one of his must see, must go to spots). This flower marker dates all the way back to <i>1830</i>. <br />
There are open air displays and covered arcades selling potted plants, flowers, gardening supplies, small antiques and all sorts of curiosities. </div>
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Photos at the <i>marche </i>are no longer allowed -- there are big NO PHOTOS signs all over the place. Most likely due to the crowds of non-customers, all taking selfies and perhaps knocking down some merchandise in the process. <br />
So that you can see how charming and quaint the <i>marche</i> is, here is an old photo taken some winters ago, on one of our Christmas holidays in<i> Paris</i>. There are a number of these covered iron pavilions, built during the early <i>1900s. </i>Crowded with all kinds of vintage and irresistible knick knacks -- we could never leave here empty handed. </div>
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The only photo I could take was of this stone statue -- is it a bench, a planter? It was adorable and one of a kind but definitely too heavy to bring home.</div>
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Aside from the <i>marche aux fleurs</i>, the <i>Cite Metro </i>stop takes you right out to<i> Place Louis Lepine,</i> named after a former prefect of the <i>Paris Police</i>. The Police headquarters used to be in a building<br />
by the Seine, very near here but they moved out two years ago. Across the square is the <i>Palais de Justice</i> and beside it is the amazing <i>14th</i> century royal chapel of <i>St. Chappelle</i>. </div>
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From the<i> Place Louis Lepine</i>, it is just a hop and a skip to<i> Notre Dame</i>. Miraculously surviving the horrific fire in April, it was amazing to see that from certain angles (and with wishful thinking) you could actually imagine that the fire never happened. <br />
Here's <i>Martina </i>holding a mini figure of the cathedral. Before we left, we had bought her a book that came with figures of the different landmarks of Paris -- we tried to visit as much of them as we could.<br />
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When you cross the bridge and look beyond the trees -- you will see the fire's extensive damage. <br />
It is a truly a miracle that the Cathedral is still standing. The entire roof is gone. <br />
Seeing <i>Notre Dame</i> was a reaffirmation of faith ... she has stood for more than <i>850</i> years and I know she will be restored. </div>
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We took the steps down to <i>Quai de Montebello </i>to walk by the <i>Seine</i>. <br />
In the background is the <i>Pont au Double</i>, a cast iron bridge dating back to the 1800s. <br />
It used to be a connecting bridge between two parts of the <i>Hotel Dieu</i>, which is located beside <br />
<i>Notre Dame</i>. The <i>Hotel Dieu</i> is one of the oldest hospitals in<i> Europe</i> and is still used to this day.<br />
The bridge gets its name from the two silver coins that were levied as toll for those who crossed the bridge, hence the name <i>Pont Au Double</i>. <br />
No toll is exacted these days but the bridge is closed due to the reconstruction work at the Cathedral. </div>
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Behind the <i>Notre Dame </i>is the<i> Pont de l' Archeveche</i>, a bridge that links <i>Ile de la Cite</i> with the 5th arrondissement. A few years back it was most famous for the sheer number of "love locks" tied to its metal railings. At some point in time, part of the bridge's rails collapsed due to the weight of all the metal locks. <br />
Good-bye locks and good bye pledges of eternal love! Now, glass panels cover the railings -- no one can attach love locks anymore. Is romance dead in the City of Love and Romance?</div>
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At the end of the bridge, a small memorial to all the locks (and love) lost has been set up. Note though that this portion is fenced off, to prevent any lovestruck couples from attaching any more locks. </div>
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<i>Paris </i>was in the middle of the <i>canicule </i>or heat wave -- what better reward after traipsing under the hot sun than a pit stop at the city's best <i>glacier</i> ... <i>Berthillon</i>! You can't miss it, it's right end of<br />
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<i>Berthillon's</i> <i>creme glacee</i> is sure to bring a smile to anyone's face. They may not have <i>31</i> flavours but what they do have is some of the best ice cream in <i>Paris</i>. </div>
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From I<i>le Saint Louis</i> it is 2 kilometres more or less to the <i>Marais</i> and back to the apartment. <br />
We crossed the<i> Pont Louis Philippe </i>which gave us a good view of the<i> Pont Marie,</i> one of three bridges that connects the island to the<i> rive droit</i> or right bank. </div>
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Blue skies, the <i>Seine </i>flowing calmly beneath ... <i>c'est parfait</i>! Paris ... you never disappoint.<br />
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids Tip #3</i></b></div>
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A long flight through different time zones is bound to hit anyone with jet lag. Take it slow on the </div>
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first full day in a new place. While you may want to cram as many sights and sites as you can in the short time that you're on vacation, kids need to acclimatise too. A short but productive excursion </div>
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of a few hours followed by an early bedtime will help them recover and adapt quicker. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-29669595340974622402019-08-12T04:27:00.000-07:002019-08-28T00:18:12.737-07:00Travels with Martina Day 2 - Apartment-ing in the Marais<div style="text-align: center;">
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After a 4 hour breather in <i>Schiphol </i>(where we stretched our legs and exercised our stomach muscles) we were soon on a plane again, this time headed for our real destination -- <i>Paris</i>. </div>
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<i>Martina</i> surprised me -- this was her first long haul flight and what a <i>looonnngg</i> haul it was. Two hours to <i>Taipei</i> then twelve and a half hours to <i>Amsterdam</i>. While she did get a good night's sleep on <i>KLM's</i> comfortable lie-flat beds, she had been travelling for almost 24 hours when we finally boarded our flight to <i>Charles de Gaulle</i> airport.</div>
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"Where is the <i>Eiffel Tower</i>, <i>lola</i>? I thought <i>Paris</i> was a city, why are there farms?" I had to explain that the airport was somewhat out of the city and the view from her window was not yet <i>Paris</i>.</div>
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<i>"Paris Vous Aime"</i> -- Paris loves you. Yes she really does! And we love her right back. </div>
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We had contracted a van for our airport transfers. Our apartment, home for two weeks was strategically and conveniently located along a main street in the upper <i>Marais</i> area. </div>
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Located on the 3rd floor of one of the many old buildings you'll see all over <i>Paris</i>, the apartment has two large windows which let the breezes in. Perfect for this summer when <i>Paris</i> was in the middle of a record shattering heat wave. The apartment had no air conditioning -- having one would deface the facade, something that apparently the government has a say on. Old structures are protected and owners are not allowed to add anything that will affect the building's look, they can only improve the interiors. </div>
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And so we opened the curtains and looked out onto more residential buildings across the way --<br />
all of them seemingly without the advantages of air-conditioning too. </div>
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While the apartment was relatively small -- <i>34 </i>square meters all in all, it did come with a complete and compact kitchen. A four burner induction range, microwave, coffee maker, refrigerator ... there was even an automatic washer and dryer. We would make good use of this kitchen and the laundry facilities during our 14 night stay in this apartment.</div>
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The apartment was small and the building was definitely old but the bathroom was spotless and clean -- a big plus in my book.</div>
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Sleep quality was good too - we didn't miss the air conditioning as we opened the windows wide at night -- and would have to close them during the cooler early dawn hours. </div>
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Here's<i> Martina</i> standing in front our building. Her first impression was of the ubiquitous graffiti --</div>
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" why is <i>Paris </i>so dirty, <i>lola?</i> " But then she said in the same breath "but it's so beautiful too!" </div>
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<b><i>Traveling with Kids Tip #2</i></b></div>
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Get the child adjusted and comfortable in the new environment as soon as possible. Whether you're staying in a hotel or a rental apartment, take her on a tour of the place, explain what to do, what not to do, how things work and just how much like home it is (or isn't). If there's time, take a quick walk around the neighbourhood to show the child that this is a friendly and hospitable place. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-5082873723161786822019-08-12T01:54:00.000-07:002019-08-28T00:13:40.887-07:00Travels with Martina Day 1 - A long day's journey into night and day again with KLM<div style="text-align: center;">
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It started off as our 40th wedding anniversary gift to ourselves. We would commemorate the milestone by travelling to favourite places and making new memories. What could be better than that? Well, we could bring along our one and only grandchild -- <i>Martina</i>, at<i> 8</i> was at that age where she would remember the places she'd see and the things she would do. And at 8 she would still be willing (and unembarrassed) to hang out with her grandparents.</div>
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We planned this for a number of months and everything just fell into place. There were no hiccups with visas, affidavits, <i>DSWD</i> permits (necessary for children below 12 travelling without their parents) -- the Universe certainly wanted <i>Martina</i> to have this one big adventure. Before we knew it, we were in the lounge at <i>NAIA 3</i> waiting for our flight. </div>
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We have always flown to Europe on one airline only -- flying blue on <i>KLM</i>. But it had been quite a few years since we last flew to <i>Europe</i> so we were all excited to see how the newer planes were fitted out. <i>KLM</i> has just one daily flight out of <i>Manila</i> and it leaves at<i> 8</i> p.m. -- past <i>Martina's </i>usual bedtime but the excitement kept her up and energised.</div>
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The spacious business class seats would certainly make the long haul flight much more comfortable. </div>
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<i>Martina </i>had a list of shows she wanted to see -- I was almost worried that she would be glued to the video all the way to <i>Amsterdam</i>! Please note that the glass of champagne was mine. </div>
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Just a little bubbly to celebrate the start of our big vacation!</div>
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Because the plane leaves <i>Manila</i> at dinner time, a light supper is served. But don't eat too much because they'll feed you again in a few hours. </div>
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There is an hour's brief stop in <i>Taipei</i> -- at past <i>10</i> pm some stores were still open, catering to those taking late night flights. </div>
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The lie-flat beds of <i>KLM </i>made for a restful night. <i>Martina </i>had at least <i>8 </i>hours of uninterrupted sleep.</div>
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The crew woke us up about an hour before landing. Breakfast was served -- you can't go wrong with croissant and scrambled eggs. </div>
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Our first glimpse of <i>Amsterdam</i>! Land, ho!</div>
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Thank you <i>KLM</i> for a safe and pleasant ride! </div>
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We had a few hours to wait until our flight to <i>Paris </i>-- <i>Schiphol</i> Airport was busy and bustling even </div>
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at <i>7 </i>a.m!</div>
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We cooled our heels in comfort, with free flowing drinks and food at the Crown Lounge. Second and third breakfasts, anyone?</div>
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As we got ready to board our plane for <i>Paris</i>, I saw this timely and apt message.<br />
Yes, hopefully we would be able to make this an inspired and truly unforgettable trip!</div>
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<i><b>Traveling with Kids Tip #1</b></i><br />
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Long plane rides are a bane to families traveling with children. Babies, toddlers, pre schoolers and even in-betweeners can be restless and irritable. To prepare our 8 year old for the 23 hour (total traveling time) journey ahead, we made sure to inform her weeks ahead, dividing the chunks of time into understandable segments e.g. dinner, free time, bedtime, etc. She also brought along a book of puzzles, her favorite toy and of course KLM's in-flight entertainment helped pass the time. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-34781937724146878602019-08-04T04:17:00.001-07:002019-08-12T01:58:25.736-07:00The (Two) Happy Folks' Home <div style="text-align: center;">
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Why do we choose to live where we live? There are reams of articles answering that question -- writers talk of cities or towns where they live, where the air is cleaner, where the quality of life is a few notches above where they used to live. </div>
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Which brings me to the question -- what quality of life am I after? Perhaps this is what I should answer seeing that I have consciously chosen to start a new life in the middle of a couple of thousand square meters of uncleared land -- more than 3 hours away from where I currently live. </div>
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A few years ago, Jay and I made plans on leaving the city behind -- the congestion, the clutter, the complexities were no longer necessary nor worth it. As you grow older, you look for the simpler, more minimalistic life. Our house had also become so full of "stuff" -- the things we had accumulated through 40 years of marriage. Marie Kondo, help! </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p74K_iXy1nY/XSHSa3ophlI/AAAAAAABTSU/72Ls8eTi6GYDYSS9FVsUKF-KSyvHCyLfACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG-20180905-WA0003.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p74K_iXy1nY/XSHSa3ophlI/AAAAAAABTSU/72Ls8eTi6GYDYSS9FVsUKF-KSyvHCyLfACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG-20180905-WA0003.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Perhaps we took the easier way out. Instead of looking at what we "had" and wondering if they still "sparked joy" (traffic and noise ... definitely not) before throwing them all out -- we decided to build a new house. Smaller, more compact -- we resolved to start fresh and keep it as spare and clear of all clutter as we could. </div>
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This is the quality of life that we now both aspire to. </div>
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It took almost two years of building but this month -- our clean, small house was finally finished and is now waiting for us to slowly move in.</div>
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The house has a fairly spacious kitchen and I realized that the shelves can be transformed into a mini culinary library for my food related books. </div>
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Early on, we said that this would be a house just for the two of us. We have never done much entertaining in our lives so the small space between the main door and the sliding glass doors that lead out to the tree filled backyard cannot be called a real "living room" area for when "company" calls. </div>
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There is no couch, no visitors' chairs (how anti-social of us!) just two antique narra rocking chairs (that used to belong to a childhood friend's family). Perfect for relaxing and even napping on lazy afternoons.</div>
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We had specified to our architect and to our contractor that we wanted an industrial type of design for the house -- the ceiling is exposed, the walls and floors are all made of concrete with just a few wooden touches. Everything is simple and spare. </div>
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To add some flair, we looked for and found a pre-owned crystal chandelier -- in the curvy and very feminine "Maria Theresia" style. Named after the 18th century Empress of Austria, this chandelier gave a much needed soft touch to our otherwise "warehouse"type interiors. </div>
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The house has a den cum guest bedroom. Our interior designer fashioned a day bed out of a pair of antique hardwood headboards gifted to us by a friend. This house fulfills the requirements of a wedding -- something old, something new, something borrowed -- now I'll have to find something blue!</div>
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I dread the time when I have to transfer my hoard of books -- Jay believes I have too many and in my heart of hearts, I know he is right. Perhaps that is why he had so few bookshelves set up in the den. </div>
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The single biggest room in the house is our bedroom. It's also the only room where I requested for and got a wooden floor. The floor is made of wide planks of vintage wood, sourced from old homes. Our interior designer had the bed custom made -- if you look a little longer you may notice the headboard looks somewhat like a stylized<i> torii</i>. I hope I can invite good and benevolent <i>kami</i> in this house.</div>
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The land needs to be cleared and cleaned up. I love that there are so many trees and foliage but I know they need to be trimmed. There is a cliff at the edge of the property that looks over the mountains across where there are more trees (for now at least). It is a lovely spot for a future meditation and prayer corner.<br />
Our new house is a work in progress but its bones and foundations are excellent. </div>
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I know we will have an amazing time here -- in our (two) Happy Folks' Home!</div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-16822503320112464752019-06-18T00:12:00.001-07:002019-06-18T00:26:43.986-07:00An Art Deco Tour of Malolos Bulacan<div style="text-align: center;">
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What do I know about <i>art deco</i> ... maybe next to nothing? But that didn't stop me from joining a day tour to <i>Malolos</i> during <i>Ivan Man Dy'</i>s recently concluded <i>Philippine Art Deco Weekend.</i> </div>
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<i>Ivan</i> has a passion for <i>art deco</i> and he promotes this by conducting tours of noteworthy examples of this art and architecture genre. His 3-day art deco series of tours took participants all over<i> Metro Manila</i> and on the last day, the destination was <i>Malolos, Bulacan.</i><br />
Even if I knew zip abou<i>t art deco,</i> I decided to sign up since <i>Ivan </i>always conducts such informative and entertaining tours. Our first stop was right in the center of <i>Malolos </i>-- our target was that white heritage home that you see in the background -- the Don <i>Antonio S. Bautista</i> mansion.</div>
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The house is beautifully maintained. <i>Ivan</i> mentioned that the house was notable more for its <i>art nouveau </i>orientation<i> </i>and was a good example for us to understand the differences between <i>art nouveau</i> and <i>art deco</i>. Do you see the graceful and elegant carvings on top of the main entrance to the <i>sala</i>?</div>
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Built in the early 1800s, the house was inherited by <i>Don Antonio S Bautista,</i> an aide de camp of General <i>Emilio Aguinaldo</i>. <i>Don Antonio</i> would later renovate the house in the early 1920s,<br />
a time when <i>art nouveau</i> was flourishing worldwide. </div>
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Here are photos of <i>Don Antonio</i> in his revolutionary uniform and a blurred photo that included <i>General Aguinaldo</i>. These were prominently displayed in the living room.</div>
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<i>Don Antonio</i> had excellent taste. Notice the furniture done in a rather muted<i> art nouveau </i>style.<br />
The florals and flourishes of <i>art nouveau</i> eventually led to the spare, "industrial" lines of<i> art deco</i>.<br />
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I peeked into one of the open rooms and had larcenous thoughts about this <i>aparador</i>.<br />
The lady of the house, a descendant of <i>Antonio Bautista</i>, mentioned that most of the furniture<br />
came from the workshop of <i>Isabelo Tampinco</i>, a <i>Filipino </i>master sculptors who was a contemporary of <i>Luna</i> and <i>Hidalgo</i>. <i> Tampinco</i> created so many masterpieces from statues to furniture to church doors. </div>
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A high point for me was seeing this beautiful window treatment between the <i>sala</i> and the <i>comedor</i>. This was featured as the cover of the coffee table book<i> Filipino Style</i>, a book that I have in my library. You can also see the book displayed on the small coffee table in front. </div>
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While<i> Malolos </i>is a big city, the grand old houses are mostly within a 2-kilometre radius making </div>
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for an easy walk if not for the tricycles that whiz haphazardly along the narrow streets. </div>
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Our next stop was this post war house belonging to the family of <i>Dr Nic Tiongson</i>, author, playwright and one of <i>Malolos'</i> esteemed sons. </div>
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The house still belongs to the <i>Tiongsons</i> but is currently leased and managed by<i> Maloleño</i></div>
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<i>Leo Cloma,</i> a high powered senior financial executive with a more than keen interest in <i>Filipiniana</i> art, antiques and of course, <i>art deco</i>. <i>Leo</i> houses part of his extensive collection in this house. <br />
He was a most valuable resource person for most of this tour. </div>
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These are very solid looking chairs made of <i>narra</i> and <i>solihiya</i> (woven rattan) -- its rounded and sleek lines identify its <i>art deco</i> orientation. This kind of <i>sala</i> set, common during the <i>40s</i> and <i>50s </i><br />
is called "Ambassador" perhaps because it would not look out of place in a diplomat's residence.<br />
You can see some of the "<i>santos" </i>(religious statues) in the background but the bulk of the collection is on the second floor. </div>
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Almost all of the antique <i>santos</i> in the house come from the <i>talyer </i>(workshop) of <i>Francisco Vecin</i>. <i>Mr. Vecin </i>runs one of the premier ateliers that creates religious statues. You can find their work in churches and in private homes all over the world. </div>
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The collection of statues belongs to <i>Mr. Vecin </i>and together with <i>Leo's</i> own pieces, they make up this private museum called <i>Museum of the Incarnation </i>or <i>Museo ng Pagkakatawang-tao.</i><br />
Unfortunately, this is a private museum. You cannot walk in, you need an invitation to view this extraordinary collection. </div>
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<i>Mr. Vecin's </i>statues are very well made and the expressions, the garments and the attention to detail is just exquisite. <i>Leo </i>explained that all of the pieces in this museum are<i> "retired"</i> processional </div>
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<i>santos</i> -- they all used to grace <i>carrozzas </i>in<i> </i>Lenten processions not just here in <i>Malolos</i> but in other towns around the country as well.<br />
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This was one of my favourites -- while most statues of <i>Judas</i> are stereotypically malevolent, this one had a more human and conflicted expression. </div>
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If you grew up attending the Good Friday <i>prusisyon</i> (as I did, in <i>Orani, Bataan</i>) you can probably guess who these saints are -- left to right, <i>Martha, Maria Salome ... </i>who was the third lady? She was not holding anything so I could not tell if she had lost her broom (in which case she would be <i>Maria Cleofas</i>) or was she supposed to have been holding a piece of perfumed cloth (that would then identify her as <i>Mary Magdalene</i>). I was sure though that the statue on the right most was <i>Veronica</i>, with Christ's face imprinted on the piece of cloth. </div>
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We had an amazing time at the incomparable <i>Museum of the Incarnation</i> -- with a tour conducted by no less than the owner and curator himself - <i>maraming salamat Leo</i>!</div>
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A few hundred meters away from the museum was the well known house of <i>Dr. Luis Santos </i>in <i>Malolos</i>. <i>Ivan</i> called it the best example of an<i> art deco</i> residence in the <i>Philippines</i>. </div>
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Built in<i> 1933,</i> as <i>art deco </i>was coming into its full glory, the<i> Santos</i> mansion stands on a spacious, tree shaded lot in a quiet residential area. You can see the structural art deco lines on<br />
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There are two doors -- as the house also functioned as <i>Dr Santos'</i> clinic, one door was for patients and led to his office while the other door was for family and guests.</div>
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As with any grand old house, there is an impressive wooden staircase. Ornately carved balusters feature touches of the graphic lines of <i>art deco</i> and the flourishes of <i>art nouveau</i>. </div>
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There was no question about where to take a group photo -- right underneath this mural on the<br />
ceiling. This was painted by<i> National Artist</i> <i>Fernando Amorsolo </i>who was a patient of <i>Dr. Luis Santos. </i> It is the <i>piece de resistance</i> of the remarkable <i>Santos </i>Mansion. </div>
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<i>Amorsolo</i> is not the only important<i> Filipino </i>artist whose work you will find here.<br />
In the front yard, is a fountain that was done by <i>Guillermo Tolentino</i>, <i>National Artist </i>for Sculpture. Two wistful nymphs pose beside a pillar decorated with what seems to be lotus flowers.<br />
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From the<i> Santos</i> Mansion, we passed by this empty but still alluring old house. Would you be interested in restoring it? This house, which dates all the way back to <i>1904</i> is on the market for a not unreasonable price although I can imagine what a fixer-upper it might be.</div>
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Next stop was an old rice granary inside the compound of another old house. <i>Leo</i> had transformed the granary into a mini showroom for more of his collection of <i>santos</i>.<br />
This tableau of the Last Supper is brought out for the impressive Good Friday <i>prusisyon </i>of <i>Malolos </i>-- a glorious spectacle that <i>Leo </i>generously invited all of us to. All of the statues come from the <i>Vecin</i> <i>talyer</i> and are quite a sight to behold.</div>
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The entire first floor of this traditional <i>bahay na bato</i> is the "garage" for just a few of <i>Leo's carrozzas </i>-- all of these participate in <i>Malolos' </i>Holy Week <i>prusisyon</i>. The big electric fan on the ceiling keeps everyone cool as they decorate the<i> carrozzas </i>with bright lights and masses of flowers for their one big turn out of the year.<br />
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This little angel has lost his trumpet but I distinctly heard the call for lunch. <i>Vamos a comer</i>!</div>
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We trooped up to the second floor where a carefully chosen lunch of<i> Maloleño</i> specialties awaited us.</div>
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I was most intrigued by the <i>okoy </i>or vegetable fritter. The caterer said that this was how <i>okoy</i> was cooked in <i>Malolos</i> -- the matchstick sized strips of <i>kalabasa </i>and carrots has a base made of<br />
glutinous rice or <i>malagkit</i> which keeps all the ingredients together. The<i> malagkit</i> added a chewy texture to the crunch of the vegetables and the crisp- fried shrimp. </div>
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In the interest of transparency, I admit that I overindulged at the dessert station. I cannot resist any native<i> kakanin</i> and these were delightful. On the right are bite sized squares of <i>biko </i>and on the left<br />
is a bowl of plain <i>bilo-bilo</i> or glutinous rice balls. You spoon the light coconut sauce over the<i> bilo bilo </i>for a scrumptious, cannot-stop-eating-it treat. </div>
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<i>T</i>hese traditional <i>kakanin </i>are still made and served during festive occasions in <i>Malolos</i>. </div>
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We took our leave of Leo and walked to our penultimate stop of the tour -- a detour from all things <i>art deco</i> but who can go to <i>Malolos </i>and miss out on visiting <i>Barasoain Church </i>-- the site of the first Philippine Congress of <i>1898</i>.</div>
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This church occupies such a central role in Philippine history that it once graced the back of the ten peso banknote that was legal tender until <i>2015</i>.</div>
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The massive wooden doors are carved with various religious images -- on this door is the image of <i>Our Lady of Mt Carmel </i>who is also the patroness of this church.<br />
While historically it is known as<i> Barasoain Church</i>, for the diocese of <i>Bulacan</i> it is also known as <i>Our Lady of Mt Carmel </i>parish church.<br />
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A mid afternoon wedding was underway. From this photo you can see how clean and well preserved the interiors are, which are done in predominantly cream with gold and silver touches. A statue of <i>Our Lady of Mt Carmel</i> can also be seen at the centre of the main altar.</div>
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As befits its historical significance, a small but excellently curated and inter-active museum has been set up in the old <i>convento</i> building attached to the church. It is called <i>Ang Museo ng Republika ng 1899</i>. We were welcomed by the museum curator, <i>Mr. Jose Paguiligan </i>who generously sacrificed his Sunday afternoon to personally conduct our tour. </div>
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Behind him is the<i> carruaje</i> that<i> President Aguinaldo</i> used whenever he was in <i>Barasoain.</i></div>
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The museum vividly captures images and stories of the <i>Philippines</i> -- when tumultuous events surrounded the formation of the fledgling republic.<br />
The highlight is a <i>7-</i>minute light and sound show, an impressive depiction of the events surrounding the <i>Malolos Congress</i> and the drafting of the Constitution. </div>
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This diorama accompanied by dramatic lighting and sound effects makes history come alive specially for school children who in this digital age are no longer content with paintings and statues but need more visual and acoustic stimulation.</div>
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A copy of the <i>Malolos Constitution</i> of <i>1899 </i>is hung on the wall -- you would think that since we were declaring independence from <i>Spain</i>, we would choose to write our first constitution in our own language ... however we must remember that the authors <i>Felipe Buencamino </i>and <i>Felipe Calderon </i>were members of the<i> ilustrado </i>class for whom <i>Spanish</i> was considered as the<i> lingua franca</i>. </div>
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The museum has 5 small galleries spread out over the spacious rooms of the church's old <i>convento</i>. Exhibits trace the end of Spain's colonial rule and the beginning of American colonisation.<br />
As they like to say about that period, the Philippines came "out of the convent and went into the brothel".</div>
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After soaking up <i>Philippine</i> history at <i>Barasoain</i>,<i> Ivan</i> had one last <i>art deco</i> trick up his sleeve.<br />
This is the newly refurbished Provincial Capitol building of<i> Bulacan</i>. Built almost<i> 90</i> years ago,<br />
this is one of the many government buildings designed by noted architect <i>Juan M. Arellano</i>.</div>
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The statue in front of the building is of <i>Heneral Gregorio del Pilar</i>, one of Bulacan's most famous heroes.</div>
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The wooden doors of the Capitol building are adorned with the sleek, geometric lines that are typical of the <i>art deco</i> style. </div>
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A magnificent marble staircase leads the way to the second floor. The <i>art deco</i> motif is carried over on the stair railings. An immense mural titled <i>"Ang Kasaysayan ng Bulacan" </i>(The History of <i>Bulacan</i>) said to be one of the largest in the country, extends to three panels and covers the walls all the way up the staircase. </div>
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It was painted by well known muralist<i> Amadeo Manalad</i> and was finished and unveiled in <i>1976</i>.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-81g3PlY9BLA/XQhYTiAqmVI/AAAAAAABS08/J2zgL8o2RlwUwhycvc3-H1LZeiM6ks9FQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190210_143318.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-81g3PlY9BLA/XQhYTiAqmVI/AAAAAAABS08/J2zgL8o2RlwUwhycvc3-H1LZeiM6ks9FQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190210_143318.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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The <i>Bulacan </i>Capitol building was our last stop on this tour -- my crash course in understanding art deco was done for the day.<br />
This exposure and immersion into the various applications of <i>art deco </i>did not transform me into<br />
an expert but it definitely raised my understanding of this genre -- it's no longer at below zero level. </div>
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Thank you <i>Ivan</i>, I look forward to further excursions into the aesthetics of <i>art deco</i>. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-7045099588956861512019-04-28T06:37:00.001-07:002019-04-28T06:37:10.724-07:00My Notre Dame Memories<div style="text-align: center;">
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Sometimes, I find myself wide awake at ungodly hours.</div>
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A few days ago, I gave up trying to fall asleep and checked out the news online. </div>
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What I saw made me sit up in shock and dismay. At 2:00 a.m., the news feeds were all about the fire that was currently engulfing the <i>Notre Dame</i> in Paris.</div>
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I watched as the flames surrounded the spire until that delicate structure slowly toppled -- would the church be saved? </div>
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I was devastated, completely <i>désolé</i> -- like a masochist, I watched all the videos I could find -- sleep was now the farthest thing from my mind. </div>
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<i>Notre Dame </i>was for me, a monument of all things French and the iconic symbol of Paris. <br />
And now, I wasn't even sure if she could survive the angry flames that seemed to overpower her. <br />
I could have wept. </div>
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But I had faith that the church would survive. I had less faith though that my remembrances of all<br />
the personal experiences I had with <i>Notre Dame</i> would. </div>
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So on those early hours of Tuesday morning, I resolved to write this post -- my memories of<br />
<i>Notre Dame. </i></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">1978</span></b></i><br />
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I thought I wouldn't find this photo -- it was buried deep in an album from <i>1978</i>, the year my</div>
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parents took me on a month long tour of Europe. </div>
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Yes, that is my inelegant, <i> gauche</i> twenty-one year old self, forty one years (and forty one pounds) ago, shivering by the chilly waters of the <i>Sein</i>e. It was a cold day in March but I didn't care --<br />
it was (almost) spring and I was in<i> Paris</i>! </div>
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And behind me was the most amazing church I had ever seen. I loved the magnificent flying buttresses of the cathedral. This was my first glimpse of <i>Notre Dame</i>, and many years later, <br />
I would always come around and seek out this view.</div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">2009</span></b></i><br />
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Thirty one years after that first trip (and yes, thirty one pounds later too) it was our turn to bring our son to Europe. In Paris on a Sunday, our first stop was for the morning mass at <i>Notre Dame</i>.<br />
This is the west facade of the cathedral, with the spot of greenery called<i> Parvis Square </i>in front of it.<br />
<i>Notre Dame </i>is acclaimed as one of the best examples of <i>Gothic</i> architecture.<br />
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The west facade has these massive stone doors or portals. There are<i> 28 </i>statues on top of the doors, representing Kings of the Old Testament.</div>
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On the leftmost is the <i>Door of the Virgin</i>, the largest door in the middle is the <i>Door of the Last Judgment</i> and the one on the right is the <i>Door of St. Anne</i>. <br />
Each of the stone doors is carved with hundreds of small figures -- they are astounding works of art.</div>
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The<i> Door of the Last Judgment </i>shows Christ in the middle with his twelve apostles on the side. </div>
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Each of the doors were built sometime in the early <i>1200s</i>. Ordinary people in those days did not always have the capacity to read the Bible so medieval churches were created to include "visual aids" -- the faithful merely had to look at the statues, the frescoes on the ceilings, the scenes on the stained glass windows where the most important teachings from the Bible were depicted. Being inside a church in those days must also have been a catechetical experience. </div>
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The <i>Door of the Virgin </i>features<i> Mary </i>carrying the <i>Child Jesus</i>. On the tympanum, you will see the death of <i>Mary</i> depicted in the middle portion and on the top, her subsequent coronation in Heaven. The many small figures carved on the arches above all the doors are representative of the Heavenly Court, composed of angels, saints, martyrs, etc.</div>
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My favourite of all the doors is the one on the right side, the<i> Door of St. Anne</i>. The tympanum depicts different scenes from both <i>Jesus</i>' and <i>Mary's</i> life. On the topmost is a seated and crowned Mary with the Baby Jesus on her lap. The middle panel shows the Annunciation, the Nativity and<br />
the Visit of the Three Kings. </div>
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The bottom panel of the tympanum shows the marriage of <i>St Anne</i> and <i>St Joachim,</i> <i>Mary's </i>parents.</div>
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I don't know if it's just me but somehow these small figures carved onto this tympanum seem a bit different from the figures found on the other doors. </div>
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The faces are more pointed and they remind me so much of the small figures carved on the<br />
<i>Bury St Edmunds</i> cross, which can be found in the <i>Cloisters </i>in New York City. That cross also<br />
dates back to the <i>12th</i> century and is one of my favourite pieces of ecclesiastical art. </div>
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Inside the cathedral is this wooden scale replica -- from this angle you can see the flying buttresses which flank both sides of the back of <i>Notre Dame</i>. For tourists who do not have time to go around the entire church, this is the best chance to see how it really looks. </div>
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While mass is going on, the nave is off limits to tourists and only mass goers are allowed inside. <br />
If you are inside and continue to take photos while mass is going on, one of the marshals may spot you and you will be asked to stop. </div>
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After the mass, it was time to see more of the Cathedral. Thankfully, our son<i> Carlo</i> had his DSLR camera with him on this visit so he was able to take good photos of the cathedral's interiors -- something my little camera phone could not do. These are some of the many beautiful stained glass windows on top of the ambulatory. </div>
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Fittingly called <i>"Crown of Light",</i> symbolising <i>God's Light,</i> here is one of the massive chandeliers<br />
of <i>Notre Dame</i>, displayed at eye level. </div>
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The stained glass windows feature more scenes from Biblical stories. The earliest windows date<br />
back to the<i> 13th</i> century. Some of the windows sadly have been lost through wars and neglect but most are still from the medieval period. A significant restoration program done in the<i> 1800s</i><br />
included their reconstruction and repair.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZG-L_lNg9w/XLp72HrsP8I/AAAAAAABRss/rSxFD5E3MOYyT_8yPifg5JQcKfTdI26AwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7725.JPG.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZG-L_lNg9w/XLp72HrsP8I/AAAAAAABRss/rSxFD5E3MOYyT_8yPifg5JQcKfTdI26AwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7725.JPG.JPG" width="426" /></a><br />
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<i>Notre Dame's </i> three rose windows are justifiably famous -- one is on top of the west facade, it is called the <i>West Rose</i> Window. There are two more over the transepts, the <i>North Rose </i>and the<br />
<i>South Rose</i> windows.</div>
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<i>Carlo's </i>photo above is of the <i>North Rose</i> window which has retained almost all of its stained glass from the<i> 13th</i> century. The figure at the centre of the window is the<i> Virgin Mary </i>and she is surrounded by prophets from the Old Testament.</div>
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It was amazing to see this, still so brilliantly vivid after hundreds of years. When you come to<br />
<i>Notre Dame</i>, take a while to see these incredible works of art -- the rose windows of the Cathedral. </div>
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Along the ambulatory you will find statues such as this one of<i> Joan of Arc</i>, national heroine and<br />
saint of <i>France</i>. This statue is from the <i>1800s</i>.</div>
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Carved out of limestone, this statue of the famous <i>French </i>saint and <i>Carmelite</i> nun, <i>St Therese of Lisieux</i> can be found in the south transept.</div>
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Great cathedrals in Europe always have tombs of dignitaries, usually bishops and cardinals. <br />
The only remaining marble funerary in <i>Notre Dame</i> is of Simon Matiffas de Buci who died in <i>1304</i>. He is shown with the customary lion at his feet, this animal is said to be the protector of the dead in the afterlife. Hmm, makes you wonder where he is headed to that would necessitate any protection.</div>
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Evil thoughts aside, there were more bishops' tombs in <i>Notre Dame</i> but they were destroyed by angry mobs during the<i> French Revolution</i> -- they resented the oppressive opulence of the Catholic church and clergy.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Fxg9B8bOUk/XLp8K6P244I/AAAAAAABRtY/JXjDUKN8TRUNXJ0wedMuiwTcqenLMd2uwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7729.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Fxg9B8bOUk/XLp8K6P244I/AAAAAAABRtY/JXjDUKN8TRUNXJ0wedMuiwTcqenLMd2uwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7729.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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One of the most interesting parts of <i>Notre Dame</i> is the <i>Chapel of St Guillaume.</i> <br />
This is also called the <i>Death Monument,</i> a funerary sculpture done by <i>Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, </i>a<br />
noted<i> French</i> sculptor of the <i>1700s.</i><br />
Shown making one last attempt to rise from his tomb is the <i>Count Claude Henry Harcourt</i>, a <i>French</i> general who died in <i>1769</i>.<br />
The lady at the foot of the tomb is his wife, the <i>Countess Harcourt</i>, who incidentally ordered this tomb from <i>Pigalle</i>. Flanking the tomb on the left side is an angel and on the right side is the familiar figure of Death who keeps the Count from escaping his fate. Death holds up an hourglass to signify that the Count's time is well and truly up. <br />
This sculpture is an arresting but not at all disturbing piece of art.<br />
<i>Countess Harcourt</i> who died in <i>1780 </i>is also buried in this chapel.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tozoqhPlPUU/XLp8T8qIqYI/AAAAAAABRto/iYnckCjJUYY4pMn0WSn79BGQOQJp8mcQwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7727.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tozoqhPlPUU/XLp8T8qIqYI/AAAAAAABRto/iYnckCjJUYY4pMn0WSn79BGQOQJp8mcQwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7727.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
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While the fire destroyed <i>Notre Dame's</i> roof and her spire, miraculously most of the interior survived including the main altar with its <i>Pieta</i> statue and cross. This is <i>Carlo's</i> photo of the main altar, the details are obscured by the railings on the side.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQxnTM7rMK4/XLp8a_wqswI/AAAAAAABRt4/gE1fPbGsf70zOesozUD6GYcUsdLOhF4GQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_2265.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQxnTM7rMK4/XLp8a_wqswI/AAAAAAABRt4/gE1fPbGsf70zOesozUD6GYcUsdLOhF4GQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_2265.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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More than just a historic monument or an amazing architectural structure, <i>Notre Dame</i> is first </div>
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and foremost a church. At one corner are votive candles - I lit a few for departed loved ones and also to say thank you for the grace of being here again, thirty one years later -- in <i>Notre Dame</i>. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">2010</span></b></i><br />
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Just over a year later, we found ourselves back in <i>Paris </i>to spend the Christmas holidays. <br />
Our flight was delayed for one night because of a snowstorm. When we arrived the first place we visited was <i>Notre Dame</i> where we found a snow-covered <i>Parvis Square.</i></div>
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The roof had a fine dusting of snow -- I remember this as a bitingly cold but beautiful day in Paris. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M_rv97DbLOI/XLqAWA8VCQI/AAAAAAABRvE/8k6-2oTf7Z8KLIfxVM3c3qmIY1_EDmZiACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1000649.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M_rv97DbLOI/XLqAWA8VCQI/AAAAAAABRvE/8k6-2oTf7Z8KLIfxVM3c3qmIY1_EDmZiACK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1000649.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The <i>Pont de L' Archeveche </i>is one of the famous "love lock" bridges in <i>Paris.</i> Every so often, authorities remove these locks because they're so heavy, the bridge's railings can collapse from the weight. But they are just as quickly replaced by romantic couples, pledging their eternal love in this most romantic city in the world. This must have been right after a "purge" since portions of the railing can still be seen. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIOlN1nzSU/XLp-7zXir-I/AAAAAAABRuk/UXek9wNL3SMqU4x4WkJdB3HcV3MHGtuKQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/251220101155.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIOlN1nzSU/XLp-7zXir-I/AAAAAAABRuk/UXek9wNL3SMqU4x4WkJdB3HcV3MHGtuKQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/251220101155.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Leafless trees surround the <i>Square Jean XXIII</i>, named after <i>Pope John XXIII.</i> In spring, you may<br />
be surprised to find cherry blossoms -- there are s<i>akura </i>trees here that came all the way from Japan. <i>Square Jean XXIII</i> is a good vantage spot to sit on one of the benches and admire the view of the <i>chevet </i>or<i> </i>the east end of <i>Notre Dame</i> along with the magnificent flying buttresses. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">2011</span></b></i><br />
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We went back to <i>Paris </i>in<i> 2011</i> to spend Christmas in our favourite city in the world yet again. </div>
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In our previous visits, we had discovered this wonderful tour company <i>Paris-Walks</i>. Run by a <i>British</i> couple who had been living here for decades, they conduct interesting and fun tours of the various neighbourhoods of <i>Paris</i>. On this morning, we joined the<i> Ile de la Cite</i> walking tour.</div>
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It may not be too obvious when you come to visit but <i>Notre Dame</i> stands on an island -- the<br />
<i>Ile de la Cite</i> is one of two natural islands in the <i>Seine </i>in<i> Paris</i> and is the site of the earliest settlement of the <i>Parisi</i> tribes. If you look at maps or photos taken from above, the<i> Ile de la Cite </i>is shaped like a ship and behind it, follows the other island, the much smaller <i>Ile St Louis</i>. </div>
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Because of its historical significance, <i>Ile de la Cite</i> is considered as the centre of <i>France.</i> <br />
An inconspicuous marker embedded in the stones in front of <i>Notre Dame</i> is <i>Point Zero </i>--<br />
it is from this spot that all distances throughout France are measured. Not too many notice it and perhaps thousands just walk over it every day.</div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yvzfjZubaGg/XLqEaaEY4rI/AAAAAAABRvo/OwJc6EBpEfg7E9Mo7n_pmTJmHISXd4fJwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/171220114630.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yvzfjZubaGg/XLqEaaEY4rI/AAAAAAABRvo/OwJc6EBpEfg7E9Mo7n_pmTJmHISXd4fJwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/171220114630.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></b></i><br />
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Unlike last year, winter was mild and there was no snow on the cathedral's rooftop. Although the trees were bare, you could even see patches of green grass on <i>Square Jean XXIII</i>. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r1cHmLDOvmc/XMVrzOhypFI/AAAAAAABR64/7RWy6eU6yqUqn0IafZBeLSdjimUIQEIqQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/191220114864.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r1cHmLDOvmc/XMVrzOhypFI/AAAAAAABR64/7RWy6eU6yqUqn0IafZBeLSdjimUIQEIqQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/191220114864.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Each Christmas, you will see <i>marche de noel</i> or Christmas markets in various places in <i>Paris </i>-- along the <i>Champs Elysee</i>, at the <i>Champs de Mars</i>, in<i> Montmartre</i> and other high traffic, touristy areas. </div>
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This one was at the <i>Square Viviani,</i> on the left bank, right across <i> Notre Dame</i>. </div>
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The Christmas markets sell regional produce, crafts, specialty food items and are a must visit when you're in <i>Paris</i> for the holidays.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Djx2xrBibD0/XMV-3aNNoLI/AAAAAAABR7M/MIkkhXLqlvMUc_D0OBA_spOBjLatowFQACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1020622.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Djx2xrBibD0/XMV-3aNNoLI/AAAAAAABR7M/MIkkhXLqlvMUc_D0OBA_spOBjLatowFQACK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1020622.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The drink of choice at the <i>marche de noel</i> is <i>vin chaud</i> or hot mulled wine. So deliciously warming for this cold and festive season. Here was my iconic Parisian Yuletide moment for 2011 -- cups of </div>
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vin chaud in hand and a superb view of <i>Notre Dame</i> behind me ... <i>à votre santé </i>and<i> joyeaux Noel!</i></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">2012</span></b></i><br />
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8qojKhP1Z2s/XLqHa19MbeI/AAAAAAABRww/cmR_K18lK8oGFlDsR3IycOqgyAx0hc5BwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2012-12-15-3256.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8qojKhP1Z2s/XLqHa19MbeI/AAAAAAABRww/cmR_K18lK8oGFlDsR3IycOqgyAx0hc5BwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/2012-12-15-3256.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></b></i><br />
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One year later, we were back in <i>Paris</i> for Christmas. We had booked an apartment near <i>Place Saint-Michel</i> and on the way there, we peered out from the taxi window at this familiar and welcoming sight. The cathedral seemed to glow against the late afternoon sky. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMkIFhlUl1Q/XLqHVUXjr1I/AAAAAAABRwo/267q4YCuO1wpUi_-YhWFTj8l187DaMMGACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/2012-12-16-3271.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMkIFhlUl1Q/XLqHVUXjr1I/AAAAAAABRwo/267q4YCuO1wpUi_-YhWFTj8l187DaMMGACK4BGAYYCw/s640/2012-12-16-3271.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></b></i><br />
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To our delight, the cathedral was just<i> 700</i> meters from the apartment. We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and had more than enough time to catch the <i>6:30 p.m Pilgrim's Mass </i>at the Great Altar.</div>
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<i>Notre Dame</i> may be a popular tourist attraction, open to people of all faiths but primarily, it is a solemn, spiritual place of worship. It is very much a sacred space -- and you can feel this specially during mass. It was an uplifting experience to come and hear mass at the cathedral, something we made time for, on each trip to<i> Paris</i>. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUWHkjYL3WM/XMWFNYLJBQI/AAAAAAABR7c/1koaFND0g9c0nyXHO0HfJCUzOdDlW60KgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1040458.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUWHkjYL3WM/XMWFNYLJBQI/AAAAAAABR7c/1koaFND0g9c0nyXHO0HfJCUzOdDlW60KgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1040458.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></i><br />
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One major reason to attend Saturday evening services at <i>Notre Dame</i> is that after mass, the Great <i>Organ</i> is played. Dating back to the <i>1400s</i>, the <i>Great Organ</i> of <i>Notre Dame </i>is one of the largest organs in the world, with five keyboards and 7,800 pipes. </div>
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After mass, we all sat transfixed -- for fifteen minutes the organist transported us to another world. The organ's round and exquisite tones vibrated throughout the silent cathedral -- you could hear the history, the craftsmanship and yes, the love that went into its creation, over six centuries ago.</div>
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A few nights later, we were back at <i>Notre Dame</i>. We were extremely fortunate to be in <i>Paris</i> -- </div>
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the opening concert of the season heralding the one year celebration of the cathedral's<i> 850th </i>anniversary was held on <i>December 18, 2012</i>. I had ordered tickets online a few months ago and now, we were off to attend the concert. Lit up by floodlights, <i>Notre Dame</i> looked especially impressive on this winter night. </div>
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The <i>90</i> minute long concert started at exactly <i>8:30</i>. An orchestra, soloists and a choir performed the <i>"Vespers of the Virgin Mary" </i>by <i>Claudio Monteverdi</i>. <i>Monteverdi's</i> vespers were first performed in <i>1610</i> and it was his first piece of sacred baroque music. </div>
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The <i>Vespers</i> continues to be performed today and is one of the most popular set of hymns dedicated to Our Lady. What a fitting way to usher in<i> Notre Dame's 850th</i> anniversary. It was a gift of grace that <i>Jay </i>and I were able to be here in<i> Notre Dame</i> for this occasion.</div>
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On the late afternoon of <i>December 24</i>, not too many <i>Parisians</i> were out as they must have been </div>
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busy preparing for <i>"le reveillon"</i> or the traditional Christmas Eve dinner. I walked out of the apartment and looked back at <i>Notre Dame</i>, standing tall against the golden light. </div>
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I turned my back on her and transformed into a fl<i>aneur </i>-- one who strolls idly and saunters slowly. <i>Flaneuring</i> is my favourite pastime in P<i>aris </i>and my favourite route was the one I was about to take. </div>
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Over an hour and<i> 3</i> kilometers later (<i>flaneuring </i>is a slow walk -- not a race) -- I had the <i>Eiffel Tower </i>in my sights. This walk from <i>Notre Dame</i> to <i>Eiffel Tower</i> is best done along the banks of the <i>Seine </i>and I recommend that you enjoy it in a most leisurely and unhurried pace. </div>
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There was a full moon on our last night in <i>Paris</i>. We took a farewell, late night stroll to <i>Notre Dame </i>to say our good byes. She stood there, as she had for many centuries and enveloped us in her warm and heartfelt embrace... à bientôt, she whispered. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">P.S</span></b></i></div>
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We felt more than blessed to have visited<i> Notre Dame </i>just as she was about to celebrate her 850th anniversary. </div>
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Despite the recent fire, much of the cathedral miraculously survived -- her rose and stained glass windows, the <i>Great Organ</i>, the cross and the <i>Pieta</i> on the main altar and so many other priceless treasures.</div>
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I have faith that <i>Notre Dame </i>will be rebuilt and will continue on -- for more than another 850 years. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>Fluctuat nec mergitur. </i></b> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*She is tempest tossed but will not sink. </span></div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-26294559688909111522019-03-02T05:40:00.003-08:002019-03-23T19:47:24.759-07:00Walking with Bukas Quiapo Tours - Food and Faith in Quiapo <div style="text-align: center;">
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Word association -- quick, what do you think of when I say <i>"Quiapo"</i>?<br />
Traffic. The <i>Black Nazarene</i>. Crowds. Traffic. More crowds.<br />
Ask me about<i> Quiapo </i>and if I look back to my childhood years, I would probably say ...<br />
Sunday mass, <i>halo halo </i>and <i>palengke</i>.<br />
In the 60s, <i>Quiapo </i>was relaxed, uncluttered and one of the prime districts of <i>Manila</i>.<br />
People came to pray, to eat and to shop.<br />
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The last time I was in <i>Quiapo </i>was perhaps 2 decades ago, most probably for basket shopping with my mother at the <i>"Ils de Tuls"</i> (<i>ilalim ng tulay</i>). A couple of months ago, I found myself crossing a relatively traffic free <i>Quezon</i> Boulevard -- headed for a full morning of what would be a rediscovery of the <i>Quiapo</i> that I knew and a first time introduction to the one that I had never met.<br />
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I had stumbled upon a new, non-profit tour company called <i>Bukas Quiapo</i> tours. Run by the Foundation for the Conservation of the <i>San Sebastian Basilica</i>, they conduct walking tours of <i>Quiapo</i>. Tours are led by <i>Quiapenses</i> as the locals are called -- born and bred in <i>Quiapo </i>they </div>
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know the history and the minutiae of daily life in this chaotic but fascinating part of Manila.</div>
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Our guide for the day <i>Dennis</i> met our group in historic <i>Plaza Miranda</i>, right across the church. </div>
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After the short orientation, we posed for what would be the first of a number of group photos. Flanking us on each end are our local tour guides,<i> Dennis</i> and <i>Annabel</i>. They were excellent and hospitable hosts, proud of and very much knowledgeable about the place that they both call home.</div>
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The first stop of our tour was <i>Quiapo </i>Church more popularly called the <i>Minor Basilica of the </i></div>
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<i>Black Nazarene</i>. A less popular fact is that the parish itself is named after <i>St. John the Baptist.</i></div>
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If you go outside, you will find his large bronze statue right by a side gate. </div>
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Just outside the church yard are the candle vendors, a familiar fixture not just in <i>Quiapo</i> but in many church grounds all over the country. The candles sold around <i>Quiapo </i>church come in vivid hues, colour coded for whatever petition you may have.<br />
Notice the black candles -- these are for "praying" for your enemies. </div>
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You need not even bring your candles inside the church, the vendor will light them for you, right in his stall as a votive offering for your prayer intentions. </div>
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From the church, we walked through the short stretch of <i>Villalobos</i> teeming with sidewalk vendors selling all sorts of merchandise -- from fresh vegetables to fruits to kitchen utensils, Hello Kitty bags, bedsheets, towels and whatever else you would need or want. <i>Villalobos</i> is the working man's shopping center. The prices are lower than what you would normally pay inside the market. </div>
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Next stop was a few hundred meters away at that bastion of porcine hammi-ness, <i>Excelente </i>Ham. I can attest to <i>Excelente's </i>excellent-ness as I grew up feasting on their salty-savoury delights.<br />
Christmas <i>noche buena</i> was considered incomplete without a leg of <i>jamon de funda, </i>a whole leg of salted cured ham, boiled, bathed and baked with pineapple juice and brown sugar.</div>
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My father would not think buying any other ham than <i>Excelente</i>, nothing else passed his exacting standards.</div>
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<i>Excelente Ham</i> has been in the same spot in <i>Quiapo </i>since pre-war days. The gracious owners,<br />
daughters of the original founder gave us a brief history of their famous product. <i>Excelente Ham</i> is not sold in any supermarket, mall or any other branch in the city. There is only one place to get it -- here at their one and only<i> </i>store. My father would have approved.</div>
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A few doors away is <i>Vienna Bakery</i>, also one of my father's <i>suki </i>in <i>Quiapo.</i> </div>
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He always bought their <i>bonete</i> -- a tall, spherical shaped bun with a small cap on top, hence the name. I was disappointed that they had run out of <i>bonete</i> that morning and my father must have felt the same way ... somehow, I could just see him walking around looking for his favourite bread.</div>
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<i>Vienna</i> now also sells fresh cooked <i>hopia </i>with traditional <i>monggo </i>or trendier <i>ube</i> filling. </div>
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However, I too have my own <i>Quiapo </i>traditions and my favorite <i>hopia </i>comes not from <i>Vienna </i>but from a small shop in <i>Villalobos</i> called <i>Master Hopia</i>.</div>
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While it is now named <i>Carlos Palanca St.</i>, people of a "certain age" like myself still call it <i>Echague</i>. Along this street is <i>Manila's</i> oldest, still existing <i>palengke</i> -- <i>Quinta </i>Market. Built in the late <i>1800s</i>, <i>Quinta </i>was "the" central market of the city, where the rich families of <i>Quiapo</i> would shop. </div>
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Later on, it became much more "democratised" and people from all walks of life (like my father and myself) would come to <i>Quinta</i> to shop. </div>
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I almost did not recognise <i>Quinta </i>-- gone was the crowded, messy <i>palengke</i> and in its place was a clean, modern, totally sanitised and generic looking mall! </div>
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I sort of missed the old girl -- she was quite rundown and rumpled but she had a charm and character all her own.</div>
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Well surprise surprise! <i>Quinta's </i>nip and tuck apparently was only limited to her face -- we exited to the side and found this familiar topsy turvy scene -- vendors and produce spilling out and taking over the side street. This is what a <i>Pinoy palengke </i>is all about -- disorderly, disorganised, in complete disarray ... but lively, friendly and fun. </div>
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<i>Quinta </i>sits right by the edge of the <i>Pasig </i>River and at the back of the market, you get a</div>
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good view of <i>Quezon</i> Bridge with its clean, art deco lines. We were unexpectedly pleased to see green not grey or murky water. The <i>Pasig River Rehabilitation Commission </i>must be doing its job quite well.</div>
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One of my fondest memories of <i>Quinta</i> Market would be the <i>merienda </i>that my father and I<br />
(or sometimes, my mother and I) would indulge in after shopping and before taking the jeepney<br />
back home to <i>Malabon</i>.<br />
<i>Carinderia </i>stalls lined one area of the market and my father always knew where the best <i>halo halo</i> was or the tastiest <i>pansit</i>. Today, the food stalls have been transferred outside of the main market and into a food court called <i>Lutong Maynila</i>. </div>
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This is<i> Aling Dada </i>of <i>Jolli Dada</i> fame. She has been a mainstay at the market since the <i>1970s</i> and her<i> pansit palabok</i> must be seen (and eaten) to be believed. While we did not have the time to try it, </div>
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I assure you it is a favourite among market goers for its prodigiously sized servings and generous toppings -- the <i>coup de grace </i>of which is a handful of decadently deadly <i>chicharon bulaklak.</i></div>
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I had to tear myself away from <i>Aling Dada</i> and her <i>pansit</i>. We crossed underneath the bridge to a place I had never been to before. A large arch proclaims the entrance to <i>Muslim Town</i> -- an area<br />
of <i>Quiapo</i> with a predominantly <i>Muslim</i> population.<br />
If I may be completely honest, I had a lot of trepidation about Muslim Town -- I had heard so many negative things about the place and how it was not that safe to wander around. </div>
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Our local guide <i>Annabel </i>introduced us to <i>Hadji Ali Alawi </i>who would be our guide for this section of the tour. <i>Mr Alawi</i> is also the Muslim Coordinator for the <i>Quiapo Inter-faith Council of Leaders </i>,<br />
a civic group tasked with improving and strengthening relationships between Christians and Muslims in the area. </div>
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As we walked through a mini <i>talipapa,</i> <i>Mr. Alawi</i> pointed out the various produce and ingredients used in <i>Maranao</i> cooking. He said that majority of the Muslims living in Manila are <i>Maranao</i>, perhaps about <i>85%.</i> </div>
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I noticed the familiar bunches of green and white scallions called <i>sakurab</i> which is a staple in my favourite <i>Maranao</i> side dish -- <i>palapa</i>.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qM8s70zjv-0/XGk3jWvqyYI/AAAAAAABP8c/chjsJgq25tMBhX-hV7JkO-92bLuTI6eKwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_105101.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qM8s70zjv-0/XGk3jWvqyYI/AAAAAAABP8c/chjsJgq25tMBhX-hV7JkO-92bLuTI6eKwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_105101.jpg" width="360" /></a><br />
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And sure enough, just a few steps away, someone was cooking <i>palapa </i>in a giant wok.<br />
<i>Palapa </i>is a spicy condiment made with chopped <i>sakurab</i>, lots of ginger and as much <i>sili </i>as<br />
you wish. It is used as an ingredient, a side dish or sauce and can be found on every <i>Maranao's</i><br />
table -- no matter how grand or humble it is. </div>
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<i>Palapa </i>is prepared two ways -- raw, just pound and mix all the ingredients together or cooked, blended with shredded toasted coconut bits. I prefer the raw version and use it as a side dish.<br />
It adds a lot of oomph to the most ordinary fried dishes. You can also use <i>palapa</i> as an ingredient -- add it to <i>adobong manok sa dilaw</i> for a spicy kick.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dS1Cu51qLVQ/XHklzVtCPlI/AAAAAAABQhY/3xLfzOkhBd8mDfOSVWYb3lJr2jUVI5F1QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_105346.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dS1Cu51qLVQ/XHklzVtCPlI/AAAAAAABQhY/3xLfzOkhBd8mDfOSVWYb3lJr2jUVI5F1QCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_105346.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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While our group did not have special permission to go inside the Golden Mosque, the largest<br />
mosque in Metro Manila, <i>Mr Alawi </i>did stop at the entrance and to allow us a chance to peer in.<br />
The mosque was built in 1976 and one of its most notable features is its beautiful golden dome.<br />
I would have wanted to go in and visit but while it is allowed and not discouraged, one has to secure</div>
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permission ahead of time.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C0VkAtqKFw8/XGk8GXxi1CI/AAAAAAABP-I/Z4dTQxJtTJMapfPndH9s3lopgbFwFf_JACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_110127.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C0VkAtqKFw8/XGk8GXxi1CI/AAAAAAABP-I/Z4dTQxJtTJMapfPndH9s3lopgbFwFf_JACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_110127.jpg" width="360" /></a><br />
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This row of old <i>bahay na bato </i>must have looked so elegant and imposing in their heyday.<br />
Now however, they are in sad need of repair. Despite their nearly decrepit facade you can find traces of their former glory -- in the eaves with their graceful carvings and the windows and <i>barandillas</i> that decorate the second floor. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e0Qk5wUYK5M/XGk7WsIFsSI/AAAAAAABP9c/oNNhdZuWz9cNtpUVi_C8CN0Jqyc2uYE-QCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130733.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e0Qk5wUYK5M/XGk7WsIFsSI/AAAAAAABP9c/oNNhdZuWz9cNtpUVi_C8CN0Jqyc2uYE-QCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130733.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Muslim Town covers a warren of streets. As we walked through, Mr Alawi pointed out the various stores selling clothes, dry goods, groceries -- it was just like any section of Manila. We also discussed how he had made it his goal to try and show that Muslims and Christians should and do get along -- allaying whatever fears and negative connotations people like me might have.</div>
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There are a number of <i>halal</i> restaurants serving delicious and authentic <i>Maranao </i>food. For many transplants, this must be a home away from home.</div>
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<i>Mr Alawi </i>promised that he would take us to the best and most famous eating place in the area --<br />
<i>June-Nairah Halal </i>food is located at a prime corner of busy <i>Globo de Oro </i>street.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4qrHTpWJ9s/XGk7NekutpI/AAAAAAABP9M/N8d9sKEPHvEnVXRKs-F1-K6ZpGfZxIbJwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_110614.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4qrHTpWJ9s/XGk7NekutpI/AAAAAAABP9M/N8d9sKEPHvEnVXRKs-F1-K6ZpGfZxIbJwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_110614.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This young boy gamely posed beside <i>June-Nairah's halal </i>delights -- stacked one on top of the other in this crowded <i>escaparate</i>. He pointed to the various dishes -- beef <i>rendang</i>, chicken <i>piaparan,</i> omelette, spicy shrimp, etc etc. Everything looked different and yet somehow quite familiar. </div>
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<i>June-Nairah's </i>was just a coffee stop -- but not just any coffee but a cup of strong, distinctly flavoured <i>Maranao </i>coffee.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2koYHv3BdQk/XGk77JWQtfI/AAAAAAABP-A/lZmOCPR4dEAcomFFUxEUzh_1qvEQf71VQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130737.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2koYHv3BdQk/XGk77JWQtfI/AAAAAAABP-A/lZmOCPR4dEAcomFFUxEUzh_1qvEQf71VQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130737.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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The coffee came with a mini <i>kapihan </i>(discussion).<i> </i> The Christian coordinator from the <i>Quiapo</i> Inter-Faith council gave a short talk on the activities and programs designed to create harmony and cooperation among Christians and Muslims living in <i>Quiapo</i>.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sec2ws0u2p8/XGk7Mmf98bI/AAAAAAABP9E/I1CjSe1FMZcB5-r4BdW_NfVBoOV8Hs7UwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_111754.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sec2ws0u2p8/XGk7Mmf98bI/AAAAAAABP9E/I1CjSe1FMZcB5-r4BdW_NfVBoOV8Hs7UwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_111754.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Another special guest was this lady who gave us a short talk on the modern <i>Filipina </i>Muslim and </div>
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her many roles in the community. She followed up her talk by encouraging us to ask questions -- </div>
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it helped erase some of the misconceptions and yes even biases that most of us probably had.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UX3lxwM8az8/XGk8RuVsNWI/AAAAAAABP-U/n4cVZqu659oMMniyeyOC07maaHPfspgiACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20181110_110802.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UX3lxwM8az8/XGk8RuVsNWI/AAAAAAABP-U/n4cVZqu659oMMniyeyOC07maaHPfspgiACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20181110_110802.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Post-<i>kapihan</i> and post-coffee photo with the heads of the Inter-faith Council, <i>Mr. Alawi </i>along with <i>Michael</i> from <i>Quiapo </i>church. The young lady beside <i>Mr Alawi</i> is the daughter of Madam<i> Nairah </i>our host and the owner of the restaurant.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wZldu97pW-Y/XGk7Xkg36JI/AAAAAAABP9k/al0IcoGp4fY9P_eX54KdLzBZbLCT0XPbgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130739.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wZldu97pW-Y/XGk7Xkg36JI/AAAAAAABP9k/al0IcoGp4fY9P_eX54KdLzBZbLCT0XPbgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130739.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Thank you for the sincere and gracious hospitality <i>Madam Nairah</i>! I just could not resist taking home some of her beef <i>rendang </i>and <i>palapa</i> ... so delicious! Food truly is the great equalizer<br />
among all peoples -- no matter what faith or creed. May we all come to a better understanding of each other through the appreciation of our different cultures and cuisines. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-58531232302413933672019-01-27T18:15:00.000-08:002019-01-27T18:15:02.380-08:002018 -- My Year in 12 Shots<div style="text-align: center;">
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It's always been difficult to for me to write about my year-in-review. How do I include all the<br />
things I did, saw and ate in a whole year, in just one post? My previous posts about my<br />
year-that-was always seemed so interminable. This time I decided to apply the <i>Marie Kondo </i><br />
method to <i>2018</i> -- remember those moments that sparked and gave me much joy.</div>
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So dear readers, here's a Baker's Dozen of the highlights of my year.</div>
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<i><b>January</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ap4e9FkLXbw/XDsC8qawvMI/AAAAAAABPFY/VZzzZpAVscEMy6XlXLc6fVygvCYEQldpACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/26232456_10215430503218365_940934674198388791_o.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ap4e9FkLXbw/XDsC8qawvMI/AAAAAAABPFY/VZzzZpAVscEMy6XlXLc6fVygvCYEQldpACK4BGAYYCw/s640/26232456_10215430503218365_940934674198388791_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Being city born and bred, I always daydreamed of the pastoral, bucolic life. These musings invariably included livestock -- not horses or cows but a sturdy carabao, placidly pulling a plow ... wallowing in the mud ... you get what I mean. <i>Jay </i>knew about these carabao cravings and at the<br />
start of this year, surprised me with a really neat Christmas gift ... my very own carabao, promptly named <i>Haw Haw</i> (get it? <i>Haw haw de carabao</i>). </div>
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This photo was taken right after <i>Mang Igna</i> welcomed <i>Haw Haw </i>to her new home in <i>Wakas,</i> <i>Tayabas</i>. She is only 7 months old and I look forward to many years of enjoying her company.</div>
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<i><b>February</b></i></div>
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<i><b><br /></b></i></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WTcQkCo3P9o/XDsDdrwWkII/AAAAAAABPFk/343AFnO9R5oP4LfSgnPxe_tnp_Y6_S4xQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_2206.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WTcQkCo3P9o/XDsDdrwWkII/AAAAAAABPFk/343AFnO9R5oP4LfSgnPxe_tnp_Y6_S4xQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_2206.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In February, I met up with a bunch of people who I had not seen in over 40 years. My grade school classmates from <i>St James Academy</i> in <i>Malabon</i> very kindly included me in their 45th high school reunion. What a treat it was to see old friends again and realise that <i>Thomas Wolfe </i>got it wrong ...<br />
you <i><b>can</b></i> go home again. </div>
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<i><b>March</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbJ4_C0eFF4/XDvNDTimhFI/AAAAAAABPIY/H3wmrNF_jGYk1oCQ1koDRl45PzNuXHHMgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_9788.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbJ4_C0eFF4/XDvNDTimhFI/AAAAAAABPIY/H3wmrNF_jGYk1oCQ1koDRl45PzNuXHHMgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_9788.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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This is the house that Jay built ... well, is actually still building. Our little retirement home is about<br />
to be finished, hopefully by <i>2019</i> we can start spending a few days a week in <i>Tayabas</i>, where this very thoughtfully and thoroughly planned house stands. </div>
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<i><b>April</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-__GirycG5VM/XDsEY5VRhaI/AAAAAAABPF8/7115ln_F8Tg2GHycA6u6cO7sum43csy4ACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1120111.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-__GirycG5VM/XDsEY5VRhaI/AAAAAAABPF8/7115ln_F8Tg2GHycA6u6cO7sum43csy4ACK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1120111.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's embarrassing to state that in all of our <i>60+</i> years we had not been to see the <i>Philippines' </i>contribution to the wonders of the world ... the <i>Banaue Rice Terraces</i>. We finally made up for lost time by visiting in April where we trekked through the wide and wonderful <i>Hapao Terraces</i>, one of the <i>5 </i>terraces cited by <i>UNESCO </i>as a World Heritage site. It was an amazing experience to walk on centuries old earth packed trails surrounded by rice fields as far as the eye could see. It is one of<br />
my favourite hikes ever.</div>
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<i><b>May</b></i></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B1fHihE6Bjw/XDsGe6SD9JI/AAAAAAABPGg/rVYSsJlAIAkrKXNA0olTwRat69typjjZACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_5411.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="552" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B1fHihE6Bjw/XDsGe6SD9JI/AAAAAAABPGg/rVYSsJlAIAkrKXNA0olTwRat69typjjZACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_5411.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>San Miguel, Bulacan </i>is known for its <i>pastillas de leche</i> and its beautiful historic, ancestral homes both of which we had our fill of, one sunny day in May. This photo was taken in the grounds of the <i>18th </i>century church of <i>St Michael the Archangel. </i>Located in the center of town, the church is a good base from which to explore the grand old mansions of <i>San Miguel.</i> </div>
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<i><b>June</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_9eBk5Um_z0/XDsFLsHsItI/AAAAAAABPGQ/YJv5SKL9waod3lihasBBuwq8Xu8bE1bVQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180610_095656.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_9eBk5Um_z0/XDsFLsHsItI/AAAAAAABPGQ/YJv5SKL9waod3lihasBBuwq8Xu8bE1bVQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180610_095656.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Martina's </i>first trip to <i>Baguio </i>included a visit to the new <i>Museo ng Kordilyera </i>inside the <i>UP Baguio </i>Campus. The excellently curated museum with priceless artefacts from the <i>Cordillera </i>region is a must-see and a perfect rainy day activity.</div>
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<i><b>July</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zIZFDz-J5u4/XDsH6Id3f7I/AAAAAAABPGs/Msi-CMM2hWwlQ8vShbZBvd1NID2ZdYoqACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180721_084656.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zIZFDz-J5u4/XDsH6Id3f7I/AAAAAAABPGs/Msi-CMM2hWwlQ8vShbZBvd1NID2ZdYoqACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180721_084656.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This view from <i>Highlands</i> in <i>Tagaytay</i> never gets old, no matter how many times we've seen it. <br />
An overnight getaway is a refreshing way to escape the heat and humidity of the city.<br />
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<i><b>August</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wc3d_Q3s6oM/XDsIH_6Xq_I/AAAAAAABPG0/_rNnYBAn8CkC-PBdIyWOpcbwoE4KWZNOQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180809_165243.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wc3d_Q3s6oM/XDsIH_6Xq_I/AAAAAAABPG0/_rNnYBAn8CkC-PBdIyWOpcbwoE4KWZNOQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180809_165243.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span>
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A quick <i>24</i> hour business trip to <i>Naga City</i> was a welcome break but the highlight was time spent with <i> Fr. Dan Isidro SJ</i> and <i>Ben Bana</i> of <i>Ateneo de Naga</i>. The former was my son's mentor and teacher in college and the latter is one of his closest friends. Thank you for the warm hospitality!</div>
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<i><b>September</b></i></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7_5Gpiz4LKM/XDsJVR9gT0I/AAAAAAABPHE/2bBbnOs6yskUz1ylcRLs9jhGDEW4UaCvQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130159.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7_5Gpiz4LKM/XDsJVR9gT0I/AAAAAAABPHE/2bBbnOs6yskUz1ylcRLs9jhGDEW4UaCvQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130159.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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In September, <i>Jay </i>and I did a mini version of the <i>Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage</i>. We were <i>henro </i>(pilgrims) for a week and walked, bus-ed and train-ed our way through the four prefectures of <i>Shikoku </i>managing to visit <i>12</i> of the<i> 88</i> temples. This photo was taken in <i>Okubo-ji,</i> temple <i>88</i> and </div>
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the penultimate stop for pilgrims. <i>Dogyo ninin.</i> </div>
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<i><b>October</b></i><br />
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In an effort to widen (and yes, "youthify") its audiences, <i>Ballet Philippines </i>has come up with the hashtag <i>#ExperienceBalletPh</i>. Ballet buddy <i>Trisha</i> and I took in <i>"Carmen and other Dances"</i> in October and followed that up with a most entertaining performance of <i>"Snow White"</i> in November. Season tickets for <i>2019</i> are in order!</div>
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<i><b>November</b></i><br />
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Growing up in the <i>60s</i>, <i>Manila</i> was my happy hunting grounds. <i>Malate, Binondo, Sta Cruz</i> and <i>Quiapo </i>were week-end destinations -- we would go to mass, eat and do some shopping -- in that order. It was serendipitous to find a local tour company, <i>Bukas Quiapo Tours</i> that conducts </div>
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historical, multi-cultural and inter-faith walking jaunts through <i>Quiapo.</i> </div>
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The half day tour run by locals is an awesome way to discover the history and hidden charms of <i>Quiapo.</i> The tours are a project of the <i>Save the San Sebastian Basilica Conservation and Development Foundation</i>. All proceeds go towards the preservation and maintenance efforts of this only all-steel church in <i>Southeast Asia</i>. </div>
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<i><b>December</b></i></div>
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Since<i> December 2010,</i> I have been lucky to share my birth date with my granddaughter, <i>Martina.</i> </div>
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We always try to celebrate our birthdays together and this year, we decided to inject a little bit of history and learning into the occasion. <i>Martina </i>enjoyed walking around the walled city of <i>Intramuros</i> and we both had quite a blast (if you'll pardon the photographic pun). </div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">P.S.</span></i></b></div>
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A pause at the end of the year to reflect and be grateful for all that has come is my ideal way to put </div>
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a close to 2018. A few nights' stay at the<i> Sacred Heart Novitiate,</i> secluded in a silent retreat is balm and healing for the soul. </div>
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<i><b>AMDG</b></i></div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-29951693518335101792018-12-31T06:15:00.004-08:002018-12-31T18:29:58.553-08:00Discovering the treasures of Kennin-ji <div style="text-align: center;">
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"Discover" is the appropriate word for our visit to <i>Kennin-ji,</i> <i>Kyoto's</i> oldest <i>Zen</i> temple.<br />
We had passed by this place many times ... while walking around <i>Gion, ... </i>walking to and from <i>Kiyomizu-dera ... </i>but it was only until good friend, <i>Chieko san </i>incredulously said -- "You have<br />
never been to <i>Kennin-ji</i>? No?! You must go" -- that we finally did. </div>
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<i>Kennin-ji </i>is one of those places that is "hidden in plain sight". <i>Shijo</i> is the main street where everyone walks down on the way to <i>Gion</i>. At the end of <i>Shijo </i>is <i>Yasaka-jinja</i>, on the leftmost part<br />
of this photo. Before you get there, make a turn at <i>Hanamikoji</i> street to get to the temple.<br />
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Popular for the row of <i>machiya</i> or teahouses and the many quaint stores, <i>Hanamikoji </i>is also where you might catch a glimpse of a<i> maiko</i>, on her way to work. At the southernmost end is the entrance to <i>Kennin-ji</i>.</div>
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I guess one reason we had walked past<i> Kennin-ji</i> so many times is that the entrance is tucked away at the end of the street. We must have missed the five lines on the wall signifying this as a most important temple -- that should have been a giveaway to us and reason enough to venture in.</div>
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Belonging to the <i>Rinzai </i>branch of <i>Zen Buddhism</i>, <i>Kennin-ji </i>is one of the five major <i>Zen</i> temples in <i>Kyoto</i>. The grounds are expansive and make for a pleasant walk but one should really enter the main buildings to truly appreciate what <i>Kennin-ji </i>has to offer. While entrance to the compound is free, there is a <i>500 yen</i> fee to enter the temple buildings. </div>
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Unlike other popular temples in <i>Kyoto</i> which open very early, <i>Kennin-ji</i> does not allow entry to the temple buildings till <i>10 a.m</i>. We arrived just past <i>9</i> and used our time to enjoy the peace and quiet<br />
of an early morning stroll. This is the <i>Sanmon </i>gate and beyond it you can see the <i>Hatto </i>or the <i>Dharma </i>Hall. </div>
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Facing away from the <i>Sanmon,</i> you will see the <i>Chokushi-mon</i>, the oldest structure in <i>Kennin-ji, </i>dating back to the <i>13th</i> century. </div>
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<i>Kennin-ji </i>was established in <i>1202 </i> and its first abbott was the famous monk <i>Eisai </i>who also<br />
brought <i>Zen Buddhism </i>to <i>Japan</i>. In addition, <i>Eisai</i> introduced tea and tea drinking to the <i>Japanese</i>. I remember him from my visit to the mountain temple <i>Kozan-ji </i>where he started the<br />
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Like most of the major temples in<i> Kyoto</i>, many of the original structures in <i>Kennin-ji </i>have been destroyed due to natural calamities and wars. The main building, the <i>Hatto </i>or the <i>Dharma</i> Hall, was rebuilt in the <i>18th</i> century. </div>
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The<i> Hatto</i> is immense and quite bare. The main altar enshrines <i>Kennin-ji's </i>principal deity,<br />
<i>Shaka Nyorai</i>. However, the minute you enter the building, your eyes will be drawn to the ceiling.<br />
I am sure the <i>Buddha</i> will not hold this against you because right above the main altar, covering most of the entire ceiling is an amazing, <i>aaah-inducing</i> painting of two gigantic dragons. </div>
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You might be surprised to learn that this painting is relatively new, having been donated to the temple in <i>2002</i>, to mark <i>Kennin-ji's 800th</i> anniversary. </div>
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The painting is the size of <i>108 tatami </i>mats or about <i>175 </i>square meters. Created by the artist </div>
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<i>Koizumi Junsaku</i>, the dragons were painted on <i>Japanese</i> paper spread out on the floor of a gymnasium in <i>Hokkaido</i>. It was then transported and assembled in <i>Kyoto</i> when <i>Koizumi san </i>finished it, in just two years. I did not mind the sore neck muscles from staring up at it for so long --- the dragons were so "life-like" -- they looked as if they were running after each other, all around the ceiling. </div>
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Aside from the twin dragons, <i>Kennin-ji</i> has other precious artworks that are designated as </div>
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The most famous one and the symbol of the temple is this scroll of <i>Fujin</i> and <i>Raijin</i> -- </div>
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the gods of Wind and Thunder. The scroll dates back to the <i>17th</i> century and was painted by the noted artist <i>Tawaraya Sotatsu</i>. </div>
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A dynamic and vibrant painting, the gods seem almost human because of the expressions on their faces -- they actually seem to be laughing and having a good time together. </div>
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This is such a popular painting that the images are used in many souvenir items. </div>
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This scroll exhibited in the temple is merely a very good copy as the original is in the National Museum of <i>Kyoto.</i> </div>
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While most of the priceless artworks of <i>Kennin-ji </i>are housed in the National Museum, you can still enjoy the skilful reproductions that grace the <i>fusuma </i>or the wide panels that serve as dividers between the rooms. The one above is part of the painting called "Seven Sages in the Bamboo Grove".</div>
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Meditation cushions carefully placed on<i> tatami </i>mats are surrounded by the painting of " The Four Elegant Pastimes", another <i>Important Cultural Property</i>. </div>
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These dragons seem to swoop through the air in this painting called "Dragons and Clouds". This and the two other paintings were done by<i> Kaiho Yusho</i> and are believed to be from the <i>16th </i>century. </div>
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This austere, large wooden building from the late <i>1500s </i>is the <i>Hojo</i> or the Abbott's Quarters.</div>
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The structure itself is an <i>Important Cultural Property.</i> All of the buildings in <i>Kennin-ji </i>are </div>
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strictly no-shoes areas -- after all, you cannot just scuff the patina of these ancient wood floors. </div>
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Slippers though are thoughtfully provided for walking between the different buildings. </div>
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A beautiful <i>karesansui </i>or dry landscape garden is right between the <i>Hojo </i>and the <i>Hatto</i>. This is the</div>
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<i>Daio-en </i>or Grand Garden and the painstakingly raked sand is said to depict a sea of clouds.<br />
Contemplating the garden is inevitable. One just has to stop and breathe and take it all in. </div>
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As you sit and contemplate, the garden can look like anything and mean anything to you.<br />
As I gazed on it, I was reminded of waves, driven by the wind, moving towards the horizon. </div>
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Aside from the the <i>Daio-en</i>, there are other pocket gardens within the grounds but two are </div>
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specially popular. If you do not pay attention, you may just miss this <i>Marusankakushikaku-no-niwa</i>, </div>
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depicted as ⚪△⬚.</div>
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In <i>Zen</i> philosophy, this garden shows the only true shapes in space -- a circle, a triangle and a square. If you look at the photo long enough, I am sure you will see them too. </div>
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The △◯⬚ garden does not really invite one to sit and meditate since it is in a busy, well trodden area between the <i>Hojo</i> and the <i>Honbo</i>. However, a little further away, just a few steps really, is this lovely moss and rock garden. </div>
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This is <i>Chouontei, </i> the Garden of Sound and Tide. The three large stones in the middle called the <i>San-zon-zeki</i> are said to represent <i>Buddha </i>with two <i>Zen </i>monks. </div>
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<i>Zazen</i> stones are placed around for meditation purposes and many visitors enjoy the garden from the viewing decks situated all around. Maple trees surround the rocks and during autumn, this garden is a favourite <i>koyo </i>viewing spot. </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">P.S.</span></b></i></div>
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Wooden decks and covered wooden walkways surround the <i>Chouontei</i>. I found a solitary bench away from the crowds where I sat and thought of nothing at all. In a <i>zen </i>state, at last. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-1386538352460568182018-12-26T05:34:00.001-08:002018-12-26T16:54:35.176-08:00Drinking (and eating) my way through All Star Osaka Walk's Tipsy Bar Tour<div style="text-align: center;">
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There is a popular saying in <i>Japan</i> that says "go to <i>Tokyo</i> for money, to <i>Kyoto </i>for culture but go </div>
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to <i>Osaka </i>for food". It's particularly true for <i>Osaka</i> where the locals believe in <i>"kuidaore" </i>or "eating oneself to ruin". I have certainly attempted to do so myself, each time I visit. </div>
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<i>Osaka</i> is both for the gourmet and the gourmand. While the iconic dishes -- <i>kushikatsu</i>, </div>
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<i>takoyaki</i> and <i>okonomiyaki</i> are very mass based, there are over 200 <i>Michelin </i>starred </div>
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restaurants which will bring you to the highest peaks of gustatory delight (and yes, expense). </div>
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However, for a proletariat like myself, I prefer to dive deep down into the local food scene and </div>
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enjoy what the locals regularly eat.</div>
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In <i>Osaka,</i> nothing can be more local or regular than the <i>Shinsekai</i> area, their version of </div>
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<i>"shitemachi" </i>or low city. <i> Shinsekai </i>dates back to the early <i>1900s </i> and is anchored by the </div>
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iconic <i>Tsutentaku </i>Tower constructed soon after the Eiffel Tower in 1912. </div>
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It was dismantled and used for scrap during <i>WWII</i> but rebuilt in <i>1956 </i>(the year I was born!). </div>
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For the true <i>Osaka</i> foodie (hate that word!) experience, always go with and trust a local. </div>
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Our long time go-to source for <i>Osaka's</i> rich and varied culture -- culinary and otherwise has </div>
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always been <i>Minako Ando</i> and her <i>All Star Osaka Walk </i>Tour Company. </div>
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We have traipsed through <i>Osaka</i> with her, on both food and non-food excursions and this time, </div>
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we took her hugely popular <i>Tipsy Bar Tour</i>.</div>
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Our first stop was a small <i>kushikatsu </i>place called <i>Jyo Ryu Ken</i>, right in the heart of <i>Shinsekai,</i> </div>
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which is where this <i>Osaka</i> specialty was born. </div>
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It may be called the <i>Tipsy Bar Tour</i> but there is quite a bit of eating involved. One cannot drink </div>
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on an empty stomach after all. <i>Jyo Ryu Ken's </i>one page menu listed all the available skewers -- </div>
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at very affordable price points too. </div>
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The cardinal rule when eating <i>kushikatsu </i>is ... <b>NO DOUBLE DIPPING</b>! </div>
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Containers for the mildly sweet and slightly tangy<i> </i>sauce are communal and shared with other diners. For hygiene's sake, please don't dip your <i>kushikatsu</i> after you've bitten into it.</div>
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<i>Japan</i> is the only place where I will agree to drink my beer from a mug and not straight from the bottle itself (a practice my gourmet friend <i>Abe san </i>calls "barbaric"). </div>
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In almost every <i>izakaya </i>and restaurant, <i>nama </i>or draft beer is served, always in a <i>brrrr-cold </i>mug. </div>
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Most of the time too, the house beer is <i>Asahi Super Dry</i> which is perhaps why it is the most </div>
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popular beer in Japan.</div>
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While the chef was preparing our <i>kushikatsu</i>, we were served a small dish of a very delicious <i>Japanese</i> style stew made with melt-in-your mouth beef tendons, potatoes, <i>daikon </i>and </div>
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<i>konnyaku</i>. So delicious! What I would have given for some rice or even a slice of good </div>
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crusty bread to sop up the sauce with. </div>
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This must have been our <i>otoshi</i>, the compulsory appetiser that <i>izakayas</i> serve along with </div>
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your first drink. </div>
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Since we were ahem, "bar" hopping, we did not want to eat too much at our first stop. We had a variety of skewers -- the meats were perfectly cooked and the vegetables still had a bit of crunch. Despite being deep fried, <i>kushikatsu </i>is totally non-greasy, I'd certainly like to know how they </div>
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achieve that!</div>
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<i>Jyo Ryu Ken </i>has a comfy, homey air . A wooden counter comfortably seats <i>12</i> (any more and you'd feel like you were being skewered). The chef cum proprietor is the one on the far left and he is assisted by just one other male staff. </div>
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<i>Minako san</i> told us that the chef used to work for one of the larger and more popular <i>kushikatsu</i> places in the area until he decided to venture out on his own.</div>
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Thank you<i> Chef san</i>! This was <i>ichiban kushikatsu </i>and I definitely will find my way back, if only for the scrumptious <i>otoshi</i> that you served us at the start. </div>
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We were still feeling a little light on our feet as we walked out on the deepening <i>Osaka</i> dusk. The </div>
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next stop was just a few hundred meters away, not even far enough to burn a calorie or two. </div>
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This is <i>Kurumaya,</i> a restaurant tucked away in a quieter area of <i>Shinsekai.</i> </div>
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The menu board by the door was all in <i>Japanese</i> with photos of premium <i>sake </i>and <i>shochu </i>and what looked to be a tasting menu. A larger photo board festooned with autumn leaves featured seasonal small plates that one could also order. </div>
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We were the first customers that evening, not surprising since it was just a little past<i> 6 </i>p.m. </div>
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<i>Kurumaya's</i> atmosphere was cool and chic. Even my beer looked stylish in its decidedly more upmarket, unbranded glass.</div>
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<i>Kurumaya</i> is not an <i>izakaya</i> so there was no<i> otoshi</i> or compulsory appetiser. Instead, we ordered </div>
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this lovely <i>amuse bouche</i> of lightly simmered <i>renkon</i> or lotus root, artfully stacked and dusted </div>
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with sesame seeds. Pale hued and delicate, the dish showed off the chef's deft touch.</div>
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Next up was a piquant dish of sliced squid garnished with bits of<i> yuzu.</i> This too was delicious </div>
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and stirred our appetites for the next dish.</div>
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For our finale (at least from this restaurant), we had asked for <i>omakase </i>leaving our culinary fates </div>
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up to the chef. </div>
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He sent out a plate of harvests from both sea and forest. It was almost too pretty to eat. </div>
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A well balanced presentation of textures, tastes and colours ... grilled gingko nuts (my absolute favourite), grilled <i>edamame </i>beans, soft baby potatoes, a chewy slightly sweet yam, </div>
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dainty polka dotted snails with a fine mild flavour and exactly four wooden teaspoons filled with deep red, fresh fish roe. The entire dish was a delight to the senses.<br />
The handmade plate in half brown - half green was evocative of the colours of both earth and sea. <i>Bravo, Chef san</i>!</div>
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<i>Kurumaya</i> is a restaurant run by this young, very personable second generation chef who took over from his father. His mother, a spry and sprightly septuagenarian takes care of the front of the house -- offering recommendations, taking and bringing orders and making customers feel welcome with her friendly and funny banter. As you can see from this photo, this chef has a humorous streak as well. </div>
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For our last stop, we took a subway to <i>Nippombashi</i>. We were still walking straight as we had really been eating more than we had been drinking.</div>
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Our destination was just a few minutes away. This is<i> Ura Namba </i>or literally "back of <i>Namba</i>", </div>
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a warren of streets and alleys where the locals go to drink and eat. You can find everything here </div>
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from hip and trendy bars to old and traditional <i>izakayas</i>. This very colorful and brightly lit building is <i>Sakagami,</i> a place that specialises in barbecued meat and the very popular <i>horumon</i> or beef and pork offal. </div>
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<i>Akie san</i> said that each red lantern features the name of a dish from the restaurant's menu. </div>
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<i>Sakagami's</i> vivid, vibrant facade totally captures the spirit of <i>Ura Namba</i>.</div>
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Small alleys are lined with <i>izakayas</i>, all buzzing with activity. It was officially thirsty o'clock<br />
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<i>Minako san</i> waved us into this <i>izakaya.</i> <i>Kitaro Sushi </i>was almost full, we got the last four seats at </div>
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the edge of the long bar. <i>Sapporo Beer</i> is my <i>ichiban daisuki</i> so I was glad to see that it was </div>
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the beer on tap.</div>
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<i>Kitaro </i>serves sushi and at quite reasonable prices too. <i>Minako san </i>said she liked this place because the quality of the food was much higher than the price. </div>
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The place was humming with conversation and laughter -- this being <i>Japan</i>, it was all kept at a considerate and muted level. Various kinds of fish and shellfish were kept in glass chillers and displayed right in front of the customers -- all you had to do was point to whatever your palate desired.</div>
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First beer at <i>Kitaro!</i> I love all <i>Japanese </i>beers but lean more towards<i> Sapporo </i>which for me has </div>
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a lighter, easier taste. </div>
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Even if we had enjoyed small bites at our previous stops, we were all quite full by the time we got </div>
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to <i>Kitaro.</i> I had already imbibed three large mugs of beer but that certainly did not stop me from ordering a final, one for the road mug of <i>Sapporo</i>. It went extremely well with our plate of <i>sushi </i>-- <i>omakase</i> style or chef's recommendation once again. </div>
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The plate had <i>15 </i>generously sized <i>sushi </i>and I didn't think we could do it -- but yes, we finished each and every one.</div>
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<i>Kampai</i>! <i>Akie san </i>was my beer buddy as <i>Minako san </i>and Jay had opted for cold tea throughout </div>
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We passed by this lonely fellow on the way out -- I think it was a puffer fish. He was probably relieved that none of us had asked for puffer fish <i>sashimi</i>.<i> </i>Aaah<i>,</i> to live another day! </div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">P.S</span></b></i><br />
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We had an amazing time with <i>Minako san</i> and <i>Akie san </i>of <i>All Star Osaka Walk</i>. Don't be thrown </div>
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off by the name <i>Tipsy Bar Tour </i>-- I guarantee you'll have a great time, even if you don't drink! </div>
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<i>Ookini, Minako san</i> and <i>Akie san</i>! <i>Hona mata!</i></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">Nomimasho!</span></b></i></div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-66616496204810802652018-12-24T02:26:00.000-08:002018-12-24T02:26:32.612-08:00A Japanese Dance Lesson with Nishikawa sensei and All Star Osaka Walk <div style="text-align: center;">
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With a lively and fun atmosphere, unrivalled in all of <i>Japan,</i> a casual and welcoming vibe, and friendly people with a great sense of humour -- <i>Osaka</i> has always been one of my favourite places to visit. </div>
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When in <i>Osaka</i>, we always make it a point to catch up with <i>Minako Ando san</i>, the energetic and creative owner of <i>All Star Osaka Walk</i>, a local tour company that specialises in unique, customised experiences for visitors so that they can get a true sense of what the city is really like. <br />
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On this recent trip, <i>Minako san </i>had invited us to witness traditional <i>Japanese </i>dance as performed by one of <i>Osaka's</i> most distinguished dance masters. From <i>Shin Imamiya </i>station where she met us, it was a short walk to this hip and welcoming inn, appropriately called <i>Home Hostel Osaka</i>, located right in the old town or <i>Shinsekai</i> area. </div>
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At the hostel, we met <i>Nishikawa sensei</i>, a third generation dance master who does performances and also runs a school to teach very traditional classic<i> Japanese</i> dances. I was surprised that he was so young and so approachable -- I suppose I must have been expecting a much older and more stern <i>sensei</i>. </div>
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<i>Nishikawa sensei</i> performed two short dances for us that afternoon that he said were very old and very popular. He spoke <i>english </i>well<i> </i>and explained the story to us before he did each dance. However, because he danced so expressively it was not hard to understand what the dance was </div>
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trying to convey. The first performance was a humorous little anecdote about a drunken lord trying </div>
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The second dance was about a woman watching the moon and feeling sad about not having a lover. Again, the movement of the hands and the expression on <i>Nishikawa sensei's</i> face was so eloquent, that we were able to grasp the emotions behind the dance. This form of traditional Japanese dance makes use of slow steps and evocative movements unlike festival dances which are exuberant and quite dynamic. </div>
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I thought all along that we would be watching and enjoying the dances, I did not realise that audience participation was part of the afternoon's programme. </div>
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<i>Minako san</i> had these lovely kimonos ready for us from the kimono rental company <i>Twins Corporation.</i> Branded as <i>Wabikae</i> kimonos, they were gorgeous and yet so easy to get in to. </div>
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The trade (and patented) secret is velcro which makes putting one on convenient and quick specially for foreigners like us. </div>
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<i>Nishikawa sensei</i> said that he would teach us both dances. As he has come from a long line of </div>
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dance masters and is one of the leading lights of this dance genre not just in Osaka but perhaps in the whole of<i> Japan</i>, it was certainly an honour to have him show us the very basic movements of the dance. Whether we would be able to even do an iota of what was required of us -- hmm, that was the question!</div>
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Thankfully, <i>Minako san</i> and her colleague, <i>Akie san</i> joined us for the lesson -- they were great for moral support!</div>
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These traditional dances have been performed through the centuries and we were certainly not going to get it in one lesson. It was amazing to watch <i>Nishikawa sensei </i>perform, but I could feel that we were also amazing --- amazingly inept! Still we tried our very best and even if the movements were restrained and slow, believe me ... this type of traditional Japanese dance is <i>totemo muzukashii desu </i>(very difficult). </div>
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Despite (or perhaps due to) our rather clumsy attempts, the lesson went by so quickly. </div>
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Thank you to <i>Minako san</i> and <i>Akie san </i>for another memorable and special experience.</div>
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And of course we are much indebted to kindhearted and gracious<i> Nishikawa sensei </i>for a brief </div>
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yet beautiful glimpse into the elegant world of traditional Japanese dance. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-12629268672283243162018-12-09T05:13:00.004-08:002018-12-09T05:13:57.479-08:00The White Egret ... impenetrable, impregnable Himeji-jo<div style="text-align: center;">
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When I think of castles, I think of <i>Sleeping Beauty </i>who lived in a castle and <i>Cinderella</i> who met<br />
her <i>Prince Charming </i>in one. I also think of <i>Dracula</i> who had a real life one and <i>Mad Ludwig </i>who probably had the most spectacular looking one.<br />
In my mind, I had both the <i>Disney</i> version and the <i>Transylvania </i>version.<br />
And then my friend<i> Meiko san </i>took me to visit <i>Himeji</i> Castle. It completely erased all other castles from my mind.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8McsoChPPX4/W_jd5gbbfCI/AAAAAAABMs4/C1zAOrRUC1QEmJGYQB9g_1OiqKFk98lhwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130336.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8McsoChPPX4/W_jd5gbbfCI/AAAAAAABMs4/C1zAOrRUC1QEmJGYQB9g_1OiqKFk98lhwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130336.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you step out of the <i>JR Station</i> in <i>Himeji, </i><i>Himeji-jo</i> or <i>Himeji</i> Castle appears like a vision in front of you. Standing massive and tall, seemingly taller and more imposing than the mountains behind it, it is also known as the <i>White Heron </i>because of its colour and its elegant sweeping lines.</div>
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Don't let the bird reference fool you though, this was not built for show -- this is one of the most well fortified and strategically built castles you will ever find. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M-voEX_xJaE/W_jd8r4Pm7I/AAAAAAABMtA/00wcPUExAuIHN5ATC04SmwQUKJYXqzPXQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_154031.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M-voEX_xJaE/W_jd8r4Pm7I/AAAAAAABMtA/00wcPUExAuIHN5ATC04SmwQUKJYXqzPXQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_154031.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Himeji Castle</i>, built by <i>Akamatsu Sadanori</i> in <i>1346 </i> is one of the ten biggest castles in the world. <br />
It covers over 100 sprawling hectares including the hilltop where the main buildings look down on the city below. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SjfpVbE7iVc/W_jeEaQKPnI/AAAAAAABMtQ/ocTH6FlEyVIWpitslyV8lny4B_AaezPdgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130465.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SjfpVbE7iVc/W_jeEaQKPnI/AAAAAAABMtQ/ocTH6FlEyVIWpitslyV8lny4B_AaezPdgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130465.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Visitors enter the castle grounds via the huge gate called the <i>Otemon. Himeji-jo i</i>s celebrating its 25th year as a <i>UNESCO World Heritage </i>site, the very first in <i>Japan</i> to have been awarded this distinction.<br />
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Upon entering <i>Otemon</i>, you will come into the third bailey called the <i>Sannomaru</i>. From here, you get an impressive view of the main tower. A stone path is lined with cherry blossom trees making this a very popular <i>sakura </i>viewing spot during spring. Locals frequently jog and even walk their</div>
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dogs in this area as there is no entrance fee up to this point.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gJ9uc5z5c3Y/W_yPZFzRqEI/AAAAAAABMy4/x83x8p_PcG0ajHizYxYVGIv7UVeYd_ayACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_154940.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gJ9uc5z5c3Y/W_yPZFzRqEI/AAAAAAABMy4/x83x8p_PcG0ajHizYxYVGIv7UVeYd_ayACK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_154940.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i>Himeji-jo</i> is composed of<i> 83</i> buildings and is the most famous and most visited of Japan's </div>
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<i>12</i> <i>"original" </i>castles, i.e. those that have survived relatively intact since their construction. </div>
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<i>Himeji</i> was so well planned, with a maze of passages and entryways that any daring (and reckless) intruder could be brought down from any point of the castle. </div>
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<i>Hishimon </i>is the main entrance to the inner courtyards and the main towers. Shall we pretend for a moment that you and I are <i>17th</i> century <i>Japanese samurai</i> leading <i>100 </i>soldiers, intent on breaching <i>Himeji-jo's</i> ultra secure walls? Half of them would probably not make it through the gate as the castle's defenders would have hit us with their arrows or guns from the arrow loops along the wall. </div>
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But luckily, you and I and a few dozen men made it safely through! However, we would still be shot at by the castle's men, guarding the next gate. See the gaps above the stone wall?</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ruoeo2DCXC4/W_kMgA7cR3I/AAAAAAABMug/4hLxUEYLBDwRmMT6QHhSzJ0sbjKvmUqswCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130475.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ruoeo2DCXC4/W_kMgA7cR3I/AAAAAAABMug/4hLxUEYLBDwRmMT6QHhSzJ0sbjKvmUqswCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130475.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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How about if we tried our luck and climbed the stone walls? If you notice the construction, small stones and large stones are loosely piled on top of one another. There is a reason for this -- enemies trying to scale the walls will all of a sudden find the wall crumbling and blocking the path forward. </div>
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Quick! There are still a dozen of us left alive. We run up the sloping path, still trying to avoid the arrows aimed at us from the windows on the bailey walls. However, we would definitely have </div>
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been slowed down because in the 17th century, this smooth stone path was nonexistent. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vUJk_kZjwPE/W_koG1afF3I/AAAAAAABMvQ/lMXQntFxfT88t63iN-szI10vWRolWK8uQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_160453.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vUJk_kZjwPE/W_koG1afF3I/AAAAAAABMvQ/lMXQntFxfT88t63iN-szI10vWRolWK8uQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_160453.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Instead, we would have been sliding and losing our footing along this long grass, the leaves of which are very slippery. Slow moving targets for the sharp shooters along the bailey walls.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABChLl-roDg/W_kMPBwpxrI/AAAAAAABMuE/goaQ4H7KOooGvVPruEvbE417TQX1CKBzgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130476.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABChLl-roDg/W_kMPBwpxrI/AAAAAAABMuE/goaQ4H7KOooGvVPruEvbE417TQX1CKBzgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130476.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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By some miracle, ten of us made it this far! More arrows and perhaps even bullets from matchlock guns would have picked a couple more of us off.</div>
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As we ran up this incline, we would have come face to face with <i>Himeji's</i> defenders who would </div>
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have all been positioned at these windows along the walls. We would have had to go <i>mano a mano </i>with them to get through. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wvamWTK6osE/W_kMd-t1QaI/AAAAAAABMuM/DAZthc293rQkzG4I8mGiA3lEFXpHECTbgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130481.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wvamWTK6osE/W_kMd-t1QaI/AAAAAAABMuM/DAZthc293rQkzG4I8mGiA3lEFXpHECTbgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130481.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Can you see just how difficult it would have been to try and penetrate through <i>Himeji's</i> calculated defences? Even if we made it through to this point, we would have run into this very low gate, hit our heads and been knocked unconscious.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tb2W05MiU28/W_koRYlQQBI/AAAAAAABMvY/pU4qWSFTVdoZXTXOihzPQtN8QKd7IBDPACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130482.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tb2W05MiU28/W_koRYlQQBI/AAAAAAABMvY/pU4qWSFTVdoZXTXOihzPQtN8QKd7IBDPACK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130482.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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You can see that my head touches the top of the gate and I'm a really short 5 foot 1 inch person. Someone careening through and making a dash for this gate would have hit his head on the thick wooden door. <i> Himeji</i> has all these amazing twists and booby traps that no wonder, in its entire history, no enemy was able to penetrate its elaborately complex structure.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5kl7rgIZ_gs/W_knS3t_MPI/AAAAAAABMu4/I3EdCIY6JEULsKOqCy2sdMVx0dPnP01twCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130483.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5kl7rgIZ_gs/W_knS3t_MPI/AAAAAAABMu4/I3EdCIY6JEULsKOqCy2sdMVx0dPnP01twCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130483.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Oops, we just lost two of our last men on this stretch. The defenders threw down rocks from the windows above and knocked them off their feet. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqpdCpRc63w/W_kor1smyVI/AAAAAAABMvo/iS6I8XNxJgYdkAIrO-o-TSzOIEBiY2s2wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130486.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqpdCpRc63w/W_kor1smyVI/AAAAAAABMvo/iS6I8XNxJgYdkAIrO-o-TSzOIEBiY2s2wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130486.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We have not come this far completely unscathed. You and I have been grazed by bullets and I have valiantly removed an arrow from my thigh so we continue to blindly stumble on. Somehow, missing the volley of gunfire from both sides of the turrets. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WT9g07bBuu4/W_koxOO8mYI/AAAAAAABMvw/3dckCxfYQscr8YzWuFFEkSqdgPo3IKe3wCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130487.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WT9g07bBuu4/W_koxOO8mYI/AAAAAAABMvw/3dckCxfYQscr8YzWuFFEkSqdgPo3IKe3wCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130487.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We made it! You and I climb right up to the steps of the main tower! Tired and gasping, we look up to see this friendly guard who tells us ... "<i>Sumimasen</i>, the main tower is closed for the day".</div>
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<i><b>Aaaarggh!</b></i></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0l33oQbalNA/W_koyGx4lTI/AAAAAAABMv4/yc0mZkiNae8TNWJMGYqLmEzkHiWs2AiRwCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/P1130491.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0l33oQbalNA/W_koyGx4lTI/AAAAAAABMv4/yc0mZkiNae8TNWJMGYqLmEzkHiWs2AiRwCK4BGAYYCw/s640/P1130491.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Have I now proven to you just how solid and strong the castle's fortifications are? </div>
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In its entire history, it was never ever successfully attacked or invaded.</div>
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Standing here right under the <i>Donjon</i> or main tower is just as breathtaking as seeing it from </div>
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a few kilometres away. </div>
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The main tower is six stories high. It is made of wood with white plastered exterior walls and has graceful "wings" along its many levels. Guests can enter and climb all the way to the top to get a sweeping view of the castle grounds and the city down below.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UYQ-xev_4eY/W_ktGls0F0I/AAAAAAABMwc/1pVm_IH9hg8QQOh7sGVdyBhQN2wxx2RPQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_161353.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UYQ-xev_4eY/W_ktGls0F0I/AAAAAAABMwc/1pVm_IH9hg8QQOh7sGVdyBhQN2wxx2RPQCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_161353.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Since we arrived too late to enter the main keep, I had to contend myself with this view from <i>Bizenmaru</i>, the courtyard directly in front of the tower. You will note that the grounds are so expansive, be prepared for for quite a long walk. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EHBNcysHFcM/W_lHzkpdtQI/AAAAAAABMws/PCZQppA0A4sPmoFZVujI67DbSetTaaPSgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_162255.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EHBNcysHFcM/W_lHzkpdtQI/AAAAAAABMws/PCZQppA0A4sPmoFZVujI67DbSetTaaPSgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_162255.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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While walking through the castle, <i>Meiko san</i> brought out interesting facts about the construction of <i>Himeji-jo. </i>The castle was built at great expense and sacrifice by the people. </div>
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At one point, stones became very hard to come by and the <i>daimyo</i> called on the people to donate whatever they could to help build the castle. </div>
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By the <i>Bizen Mon, </i>you will see this huge slab of stone on the right. This was part of a stone coffin which came from a burial mound. This was not the only stone coffin used in the construction of <i>Himeji-jo.</i></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja88NCl_VGM/W_ks78Doq2I/AAAAAAABMwU/-lsGkzC9aJICjJMLofo1xqhqQSbANAYjgCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20180926_160936.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja88NCl_VGM/W_ks78Doq2I/AAAAAAABMwU/-lsGkzC9aJICjJMLofo1xqhqQSbANAYjgCK4BGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20180926_160936.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Small mill stones which people used for grinding grains were used as fillers in between the larger rocks. Can you see the small millstone protected by a screen in the photo above.</div>
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The story goes that it was donated by an impoverished widow who had nothing else to give.</div>
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It reminded me of the biblical story of the widow's mite. The best gifts are given by those who </div>
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have very little themselves.</div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">P.S.</span></i></b><br />
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Visiting <i>Himeji-jo</i> was an incredible experience, made even more meaningful because our dear friend <i>Meiko san </i>was with us to explain the history and construction of Japan's most impressive castle. </div>
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On the way out, we met these young <i>Japanese</i> and their teacher. </div>
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Members of an <i>English </i>speaking club, we had a nice time helping them practice their language skills.</div>
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While I will always remember the magnificent grandeur of <i>Himeji-jo,</i> that memory will also include this personal and heartwarming encounter. </div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4260949876299198050.post-12050071651847961872018-11-23T04:21:00.000-08:002018-11-23T04:21:51.070-08:00An almost vegetarian lunch at Haduki on Mt Shosha<br />
<i>Buddhists</i> believe in doing no harm to any living creature that's why most of them do not eat any meat, poultry or fish. In <i>Japan</i>, <i>Buddhist</i> monks prepare vegetarian cuisine or <i>shojin ryori</i> --<br />
it's served in temple restaurants or in temple lodgings.<br />
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<i>Engyo-ji</i> has both temple lodging or <i>shukubo</i> and a restaurant. The <i>Engyo-ji Kai-kan,</i> just past </div>
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the <i>Nio-mon</i> is a <i>shukubo</i> where guests and visitors to the temple can also enjoy a <i>shojin ryori</i> meal. </div>
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For day visitors, reservations for lunch are sometimes necessary, particularly during the temple's </div>
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busy season. </div>
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However, there was no one in the reception area of <i>Kai-kan </i>when we walked in so regretfully we were not able to try the <i>shojin ryori</i> lunch. </div>
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<i> Meiko san</i> promised a more casual and just as delicious meal just a little further on. Across the <i>Maniden</i> is this cafe cum souvenir shop called <i>Haduki</i>. According to <i>Meiko san</i>, the cafe served simple vegetarian meals but its specialty was <i>oden</i>. That perked me right up!</div>
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<i>Haduki </i>looks like a <i>Japanese </i>home converted into a restaurant. There were just seven items on the menu -- mostly hot udon or soba with either mushrooms, vegetables or <i>yuba</i> (tofu skin). <br />
Except for the <i>oden</i>, which came with <i>chikuwa </i>or fish sausage and one of the noodles that used a<br />
fish broth, all the other dishes were vegetarian. </div>
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Souvenir items such as amulets, charms and specialty foods are sold at<i> Haduki</i>. If you want something else to drink aside from the free green tea, there is a cooler stocked with bottled water, </div>
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juices and surprise, surprise -- cold beer. Does this mean that <i>Buddhists</i> are not alcohol averse? </div>
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Jay opted to go full vegetarian with his bowl of <i>udon</i> noodles with seaweed and <i>yuba</i>. <br />
The heart cut-out was a <i>kawaii</i> touch.</div>
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<i>Meiko san</i> and I split an order of plain<i> onigiri</i> (rice balls). One was sprinkled with sesame seeds<br />
and the other was topped with dried shredded <i>akajiso</i> or Japanese red <i>shiso</i> leaves. </div>
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Naturally we had to have the <i>oden</i> and yes, <i>Meiko san</i> was right -- it was superb. <br />
Every ingredient in that <i>oden</i> was made right in Haduki's kitchen. The <i>chikuwa</i> and<br />
the egg were the only non-vegetable elements on this plate. <br />
Beer is made with barley, hops and yeast so it definitely counts as vegetarian fare!<br />
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Right outside <i>Haduki </i>is a small pond stocked with vari-colored <i>koi</i>. For 50 yen, you can buy a </div>
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small tray of fish food and treat them to lunch. </div>
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<i>Gomen nasai</i>, I whispered. I'm sorry for eating the <i>chikuwa</i> in my<i> oden</i>.</div>
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Labrador Ladyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05568338264907105161noreply@blogger.com0