Discovering the treasures of Kennin-ji

"Discover" is the appropriate word for our visit to Kennin-ji, Kyoto's oldest Zen temple.
We had passed by this place many times ... while walking around Gion, ... walking to and from Kiyomizu-dera ... but it was only until good friend, Chieko san incredulously said -- "You have
never been to Kennin-ji?  No?! You must go"  -- that we finally did. 

Kennin-ji is one of those places that is "hidden in plain sight".  Shijo is the main street where everyone walks down on the way to Gion.  At the end of Shijo is Yasaka-jinja, on the leftmost part
of this photo.   Before you get there, make a turn at Hanamikoji street to get to the temple.

Popular for the row of machiya or teahouses and the many quaint stores, Hanamikoji is also where you might catch a glimpse of a maiko, on her way to work.  At the southernmost end is the entrance to Kennin-ji.

I guess one reason we had walked past Kennin-ji so many times is that the entrance is tucked away at the end of the street.  We must have missed the five lines on the wall signifying this as a most important temple -- that should have been a giveaway to us and reason enough to venture in.

Belonging to the Rinzai branch of Zen Buddhism, Kennin-ji is one of the five major Zen temples in Kyoto.    The grounds are expansive and make for a pleasant walk but one should really enter the main buildings to truly appreciate what Kennin-ji has to offer.  While entrance to the compound is free, there is a 500 yen fee to enter the temple buildings. 

Unlike other popular temples in Kyoto which open very early, Kennin-ji does not allow entry to the temple buildings till 10 a.m.  We arrived just past  9 and used our time to enjoy the peace and quiet
of an early morning stroll. This is the Sanmon gate and beyond it you can see the Hatto or the Dharma Hall. 

Facing away from the Sanmon, you will see the Chokushi-mon, the oldest structure in Kennin-ji, dating back to the 13th century.  

Kennin-ji was established in 1202  and its first abbott was the famous monk Eisai who also
brought  Zen Buddhism to Japan.  In addition,  Eisai  introduced tea and tea drinking to the Japanese.    I remember him from my visit to the mountain temple  Kozan-ji where he started the
first tea plantation in the country. 

Like most of the major temples in Kyoto, many of the original structures in Kennin-ji have been destroyed due to natural calamities and wars.  The main building, the Hatto or the Dharma Hall, was rebuilt in the 18th century. 

The Hatto is immense and quite bare.  The main altar enshrines Kennin-ji's principal deity,
Shaka Nyorai.  However, the minute you enter the building,  your eyes will be drawn to the ceiling.
I am sure the Buddha will not hold this against you because right above the main altar, covering most of the entire ceiling is an amazing,  aaah-inducing painting of two gigantic dragons.  

You might be surprised to learn that this painting is relatively new, having been donated to the temple in 2002, to mark Kennin-ji's 800th anniversary. 

The painting is the size of 108 tatami mats or  about 175 square meters.  Created by the artist 

Koizumi Junsaku,  the dragons were painted on Japanese paper spread out on the floor of a gymnasium in Hokkaido.  It was then transported and assembled in Kyoto when Koizumi san finished it, in just two years.  I did not mind the sore neck muscles from staring up at it for so long --- the dragons were so  "life-like" -- they looked as if they were running after each other, all around the ceiling.  

Aside from the twin dragons,  Kennin-ji has other precious artworks that are designated as 

National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties.  

The most famous one and the symbol of the temple is this scroll of Fujin and Raijin -- 

the gods of Wind and Thunder.  The scroll dates back to the 17th century and was painted by the noted artist Tawaraya Sotatsu. 

A dynamic and vibrant painting,  the gods seem almost human because of the expressions on their faces -- they actually seem to be laughing and having a good time together.  

This is such a popular painting that the images are used in many souvenir items. 

This scroll exhibited in the temple is merely a very good copy as the original is in the National Museum of Kyoto. 

While most of the priceless artworks of Kennin-ji are housed in the National Museum, you can still enjoy the skilful reproductions that grace the fusuma or the wide panels that serve as dividers between the rooms.  The one above is part of the painting called "Seven Sages in the Bamboo Grove".

Meditation cushions carefully placed on tatami mats are surrounded by the painting of " The Four Elegant Pastimes", another Important Cultural Property. 

These dragons seem to swoop through the air in this painting called "Dragons and Clouds". This and the two other paintings were done by Kaiho Yusho and are believed to be from the 16th century. 

This  austere, large wooden building from the late 1500s is the Hojo or the Abbott's Quarters.

The structure itself is an Important Cultural Property.   All of the buildings in Kennin-ji are 

strictly no-shoes areas -- after all, you cannot just scuff the patina of these ancient wood floors. 

Slippers though are thoughtfully provided for walking between the different buildings. 

A beautiful karesansui or dry landscape garden is right between the Hojo and the Hatto.  This is the

Daio-en or Grand Garden and the painstakingly raked sand is said to depict a sea of clouds.
Contemplating the garden is inevitable.  One just has to stop and breathe and take it all in. 

As you sit and contemplate, the garden can look like anything and mean anything to you.
As I gazed on it, I was reminded of waves, driven by the wind, moving towards the horizon. 

Aside from the the Daio-en,  there are other pocket gardens within the grounds but two are 

specially popular.  If you do not pay attention, you may just miss this Marusankakushikaku-no-niwa, 

depicted as ⚪△⬚.

In Zen philosophy, this garden shows the only true shapes in space -- a circle, a triangle and a square.  If you look at the photo long enough, I am sure you will see them too. 

The △◯⬚ garden does not really invite one to sit and meditate since it is in a busy, well trodden area between the Hojo and the Honbo.  However, a little further away, just a few steps really, is this lovely moss and rock garden.  

This is Chouontei,  the Garden of Sound and Tide.  The three large stones in the middle called the San-zon-zeki are said to represent Buddha with two Zen monks.  

Zazen stones are placed around for meditation purposes and many visitors enjoy the garden from the viewing decks situated all around.   Maple trees surround the rocks and during autumn, this garden is  a favourite koyo viewing spot. 

P.S.

Wooden decks and covered wooden walkways surround the Chouontei.   I found a solitary bench away from the crowds where I sat and thought of nothing at all.  In a zen state, at last.