Monday, August 14, 2017

Postscript : Our Dual Pilgrim Certificate of the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago


The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes  designated as a UNESCO
World Heritage site.  The other (and more popular) one is the Camino de Santiago in Spain.  
Both started  around the 10th century and both  have had millions of pilgrims walk through its
well trodden paths.
One is Shinto, dedicated to the kami or gods of nature and the other is in honour of St. James
or Santiago, one of Jesus' twelve apostles. 
The Kumano Kodo -- tucked away in a remote corner of hidden Japan is perhaps little known to
the pilgrims of the Camino.  However,  its popularity seems to be slowly growing, we met a number of Europeans and even some Americans along the trails.



The pilgrim who has completed the Camino de Santiago earns the Compostela, a small scroll written in Latin that attests to this fact.  The pilgrim who has walked the approved routes of the Kumano Kodo also receives a certificate.
And if you are fortunate to have walked both, you are recognised as a Dual Pilgrim and given a special credential. 
This is available from three  locations along the route ... from the Tanabe Tourist Center, the Hongu Heritage Centre (shown above) and the Kumano Kodo Kan Center in Takijiri.


When we dropped by on a late summer afternoon,  the Heritage Centre was quite devoid of visitors.  
There were no long queues waiting to get their credentials, as you would see in the Pilgrims' Office
in Santiago.  


Getting the certificate was quick and relatively easy.  The Hongu Heritage Center is staffed by volunteers from the community, many of whom are fluent in English.
To qualify for the Dual Pilgrim Certificate,  you should bring some proof that you have earned your Compostela from the Camino de Santiago.  A picture of your compostela is good enough.
You also have to show your passport as further proof of identification.


As in the Camino, stamps from places passed along the way are collected in a booklet.  The completed booklet is needed to show that you have really walked any of the following routes:  
a) the Nakahechi Route, from Takijiri to Hongu Taisha
b) the Nakahechi Route from Hongu Taisha to Nachi Taisha
c) the Nakahechi Route, from Hoshinmon Oji to Hongu Taisha plus stamps from Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha and 
d) the Kohechi route, from Koyasan to Hongu Taisha.



Here are the Amigos holding up our newly minted Dual Pilgrim Certificates.  We also walked the Camino de Santiago together.
With us was the Heritage Center officer and our invaluably helpful Mi-Kumano guides  Wada san and Chika san.







This is the Certificate of Completion given to Dual Pilgrims.  You can get the same certificate in the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela if you show proof of having completed the Kumano Kodo.  
Once you get your Certificate, you may be asked for permission to include your photo and pilgrimage details on the Dual Pilgrim website.   



In addition to the Certificate of Completion, Dual Pilgrims also get a commemorative pin showing 
the symbols of both pilgrimages .... the scallop shell of the Camino de Santiago and the Yatagarasu 
or 3 legged crow, a Shinto motif and symbol of the Kumano Kodo.  Both certificate and pin are given gratis and are lovely ways to remember your experiences on the trails. 

P.S



I feel doubly privileged to have walked both the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo. 
Walking through different and sometimes challenging trails, tracing the paths of many who have 
gone before, experiencing and giving thanks for the beauty of your surroundings ...  these are the 
life enhancing gifts that a pilgrimage gives to the pilgrim.   
Walking teaches you mindfulness.   As you walk, you find your way. 

Ultreia et suseia
Ganbatte


Lessons learned:
1. If you want the Dual Pilgrim Certificate, do not forget to fill up the booklet with the necessary stamps and bring a 
photo proof of your compostela from the Camino de Santiago.
2. You may get the booklet for stamps from Tanabe, Hongu or Takijiri.  It is given for free.
3. Unlike the Camino which requires you to walk a minimum of 100 kilometres to earn a Compostela, there are a number of options for the Kumano Kodo which require less walking.  The mandatory requirement is a visit to all 3 Grand Shrines. 










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Friday, August 11, 2017

Kumano Kodo Day 5 Katsuura to Nachi Taisha : Climbing the stairs to the end of my pilgrimage


On the last day of our Kumano Kodo, I woke up with the thought that my hiking days were almost over.   There was one shrine left to visit -- Nachi Taisha.  Located at the top of Mt Nachi,  we would reach it by bus but with a bit of climbing left to do.


The bus terminal is right by the Kii Katsuura railway station.  This makes it convenient for those who come from Osaka or even Nagoya and who have time only for a day trip to the shrine.   


The round trip ticket will save you a few hundred yen.  We all needed to go our separate ways after lunch, so we took the 8:25 a.m. bus to give us enough time to get back to Katsuura.  There are buses that leave earlier, the first at 6:45 and again at 7:25. But those were a bit too early for us.



After a short 20 minute ride, we got off the bus at the stop for Daimonzaka -- which literally means "gate to the slope".  Nachi Taisha is located on Mt. Nachi,  just up ahead.



Near the bus stop is this familiar marker which we first saw at Takijiri Oji
at the start of  our hike.  The marker states that the Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo as well
as other landmarks and areas in the Kii Peninsula are UNESCO World Heritage Sites





Here is the map that shows the way to the shrine.  I've marked the various points -- the red circle shows the bus stop where we got off.  Next is Daimonzaka (orange circle) which are the stone steps that lead to the shrine.  
From Daimonzaka,  we would continue to walk up to Nachi Taisha (pink circle) and then walk down to the bus stop (yellow circle) that would take us back to Katsuura. This bus stop is also nearest Nachi no Taki or Nachi Falls.   
Some visitors opt to do a counterclockwise route --  by getting off the bus at the yellow circle and walking their way down to the red circle.  



A plain stone torii marks the start of the sacred grounds of Nachi.  Past the small red bridge are a few souvenir huts before you reach the stone staircase of Daimonzaka which will lead you up from the base to the mid point of Mt Nachi.  


At the very start of the stairs  are a pair of giant cedar trees that are said to be 800 years old.
These are known as the meoto-sugi or husband and wife trees so called because their roots are entwined at the base, underneath the stone steps.



We begin the steep and very crowded ascent of Daimonzaka.
As it is a Sunday, we are inundated with busloads of Japanese tourists who much to my chagrin,
bound up the uneven stone steps with such ease.
For those who need assistance, bamboo walking sticks are available, use them and leave them at the top when you finish your climb.



The air that surrounds Daimonzaka is suffused with a primordial energy -- these stone steps date
back hundreds and hundreds of years.  Trodden and well worn with the steps of countless pilgrims,
I can feel and understand the attraction and powerful pull of the Kumano Kodo.




We dawdle along the slope and soon it is completely quiet and there is no one around but us.  
The giant camphor, cedar and bamboo trees along the steps keep us cool on this warm summer day.  It is an incredible walk up this ancient stone staircase.   Surrounded by the forest, one can feel the strong chi or energy coming from this  natural environment.  




While picturesque and photogenic,  Daimonzaka is also quite a bit of a walk.
There are almost 270 steps, some of them steeply inclined,  that go on for over 600 meters, with a
rise in elevation of 100 meters.  
You  need to watch your step as it's easy to trip over the broken and unevenly placed stones. 
I see my dear old friends, the ki-no ne or tree roots and say a fond farewell to them.
Perhaps we will meet again someday?



Past the midway point, we came upon a group of Japanese ladies excitedly peering through the
trees. They quickly motion me over to point out a tiny but distinct glimpse of Nachi-no-Taki or
Nachi Waterfalls.



Along the way, we saw this hollowed out tree,  so massive that four or even five people would comfortably fit inside.  



The light at the top of the steps means we are nearing the end of the slope.  It has been an invigorating and unique  experience, climbing the Daimonzaka.



At the top of the steps, I take one last look back.  With a slight rustle, the trees seem to shroud the stone steps.  If it disappeared before my very eyes,  I don't think I would have been that surprised.




A signpost shows the way to the shrine complex.  We are headed for the direction of Nachi Taisha and Nachi no Taki



It's a bit of a let down to come upon this concrete car park that mars the natural beauty of the place.  While I realise a car or taxi could have brought me up here, I would not have exchanged going up the Daimonzaka for that convenience.  



There are more steps to climb on the way to the shrine.  As in most major temples and shrines there are shops selling souvenirs, amulets and crafts along the way.  The shops in Nachi are located along this stone staircase.   You can do some shopping as you stop to catch your breath.



These wooden masks and statues would make such great souvenirs but Jay calls them "dust gatherers" so all I can do is look and admire.



There are also figurines made of a type of jet black stone -- these come from the Kii Peninsula Mountain range. 



For thirsty pilgrims, there are bottles of water and tea set out by the side.  Naturally cooled by flowing mountain water, I can imagine how refreshing these must be.




At the top of the steps is a large torii that marks the entrance to Nachi Taisha. 



The view of the lush green mountains is a stunning backdrop for the vermillion torii and the
lanterns that line the steps.   The mountain breezes are no match for the hot sun -- it's an energy draining slog up this long staircase. 



And what do you think I found at the top of the steps?  Another tall and steep staircase to climb.  
Thankfully, it was the last one. 



At the top of the mountain is Nachi Taisha.   It is the smallest of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and like the Hayatama Taisha is painted in the traditional red orange of the
Shinto shrine.  We line up to pay our respects and thank kami sama for allowing us to finish our pilgrimage safely.



Another group photo is in order -- the Amigos just completed the Kumano Kodo!
Otsukare sama deshita!



Off to one side of the shrine is this giant camphor tree that is almost a thousand years old.  A  stone torii guards the entrance to the base of the tree where stone steps take you to the small shrine within.
Shinto venerates all  of nature and certain venerable elements such as rocks, water or  trees are seen as power spots where kami or gods are present.
The shimenawa or rope hung with shide that you can see on the torii signifies that this is a sacred place.




Just a few steps away from Nachi Taisha is Seiganto-ji,  an important Buddhist temple and the first stop in the Saigoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage devoted to Kannon, goddess of mercy.  This temple is 
also designated as an Important Cultural Property.
As you prepare to climb the wooden steps, pay homage to a statue of Kannon, located on the left.



Seiganto-ji's hondo or main hall is made totally of wood and is a marvellous piece of temple architecture that dates back to 1590.  Can you see the bright red pavilion of Nachi Taisha peeking from the left side of the photo? 
The proximity of Shinto shrine to Buddhist temple is a very common all over Japan.  
I particularly noticed it here along the Kumano Kodo where shrines to Oji or children of Shinto deities co-exist side by side with statues of jizos or Buddhist bodhisattvas
The Japanese observe and practice both Shinto and Buddhist rituals and traditions. 





I tried as best as I could to capture one of the more iconic scenes of the Kumano Kodo.  
As you walk down from the temple and the shrine, you will come to Sanjudo, the orange three-story pagoda of Seiganto-ji with Nachi-no-Taki, Japan's tallest waterfalls in the background.  
Even from this distance,  I could sense the power of the waters as it cascaded down from the mountain.
Rumor has it that the monks of Seiganto-ji know a secret spot to take the best photo from but since 
I did not run into any monk, I was not able to ask.  I can only hope my photo somehow captures this magnificent sight. 



From the pagoda, it was downhill all the way ... literally.  A 10- minute walk over paved roads 
took us down to the  stop for the bus back to Katsuura. This is right in front of the entrance 
to the stairs leading to Nachi no Taki.
On hindsight, it seems rather anticlimactic to end my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage at a bus stop.  
In a perfect scenario, I should be bowing to the gods on top of a windswept mountain or if I had 
the time, I could have been standing near the crashing waters of Nachi no Taki.

But perhaps is isn't so bad -- after all,  I was waiting for a bus  ...  to take me on to the next journey and on to the next pilgrimage.   

Ganbatte!






Lessons learned: 

1. The way down is harder than the way up.  Don't be daunted by the numerous stairs to climb, take the normal route of Daimonzaka to the Nachi Taisha.
2. The falls should be a gorgeous sight, leave enough time in your visit for the walk down to the falls.  I'm sorry we missed doing that.
3. Photos were not allowed inside the Seiganto-ji but don't miss a visit inside to see the beautiful treasures on display.









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Monday, July 24, 2017

Kumano Kodo Day 4 : An evening in Katsuura and Minshuku Wakatake


Its proximity to Nachi Taisha, the third Kumano Grand Shrine and the last we had yet to visit,
was the reason for spending our last night at Katsuura -- a coastal town facing the Pacific Ocean.
I couldn't believe we were on our last night -- tomorrow morning after the visit to the shrine,
our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage would be finished. 


We were booked at Minshuku Wakatake, just a few steps away from the Kii Katsuura station.  This plain white building houses about 15 rooms on the second and third floors.   Happily, it also has hot spring or onsen baths as Katsuura is also known as one of the onsen towns in Wakayama Prefecture.


Don't worry if there's no one in the reception area, just ring the bell and one of the owners will pop out from the kitchen.  


The minshuku is run by a young husband and wife team, assisted by a few waitstaff in the dining area.  This cute signboard is proudly displayed on the reception desk. 
I learned the husband is the chef and plans all the meals served to the guests.  



I liked the homespun appeal of Minshuku Wakatake.  Our tatami room had a small section that included a sink and a window which looked out onto the railway station.   Rooms do not include ensuite toilets but there are a couple on each floor.  And of course, baths are taken in the onsen area.






It was still bright outside so we set out to discover what we could of the town.  
A large map  gave us some information  -- aside from its significance 
to the Kumano Kodo, Katsuura is also a major fishing port, a town rich with hot springs, a jump 
off point to several scenic islands and with a train station that links the town to the big cities of Osaka and Nagoya.



Hot springs are abundant in Katsuura and a foot onsen just in front of the station is a nice way to sample the town's mineral rich waters.   The water is pleasantly warm though I could stand to have it a bit hotter.



Like most small towns, Katsuura seems to shut down after 5 p.m.   Most of the stores in the covered shopping arcade or shotengai had closed down for the day.



This logo found in the shotengai aptly shows the town's two main offerings -- onsen and fishing. 


While most of the stores were closed, the restaurants and izakayas were just starting to open their doors for the evening crowd. 



The fishing port of Katsuura is Wakayama's version of Tsukiji.  A significant portion of the tuna caught in Japanese waters finds its way to this port where it is sold by auction, much like its counterpart in Tokyo.


There are a number of large onsen hotels in Katsuura,  easily seen from the boardwalk.  Small ferry boats by the pier bring guests to and from these resort hotels.




We made it back to the hotel in time for dinner which was served in a large tatami dining area.  
Behind Jay, you can see a group of elderly Japanese men who had already sampled the pleasures of the minshuku's onsen and were comfortably attired in their yukatas.  



That short walk around the town made for thirsty work -- good thing that beer was available for dinner. Instead of taking the usual draft beer from the major brewers, I decided to try a bottle of the  local craft beer.    
The label shows the 3-legged crow, the symbol of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.  
The beer was a golden amber ale, rich and fruity and with a strong white foamy head.  Very nice and  easy on the palate.  





We had all ordered the Seafood Course and were pleasantly surprised to see that sukiyaki was part of the set.  This certainly made the carnivores quite happy.  In addition, there was a tasty miso glazed savoury eggplant side dish, tuna sashimi and a small dish of pickled tuna.  



The main course was tuna collar -- deep fried instead of grilled as I normally have it.   
It was well seasoned,  juicy and not at all oily.



The next morning Jay and I woke up before 6 a.m. to try and see if there was some action happening at the much vaunted fish port.  Unfortunately since it was Sunday, the whole place was closed, no seafood market, no small kiosks selling fresh-from-the-sea tekkadon ... nothing.  We had to leave 
with sad hearts and even sadder stomachs. 



We did discover more free foot onsen right across the fish port.  I can imagine this must be a busy place when the port and market are open.


We did not stay hungry for long.  We came back to the minshuku to find that breakfast had been served.    It was very traditional Japanese breakfast, complete with my personal favourite ... sticky, gooey natto.  These fermented soybeans may be an acquired taste for some but it is a delicacy for me.



Fortified with the goodness of natto beans, the Amigos were ready for the last hike of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage!












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