Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 4 - I visited Atsuta Jingu, a Shinto shrine and found Kobo Daishi

On the plane on my way to my first visit to Nagoya, I opened a guidebook and started to read about the city (cramming was more like it). 

One thing that stood out was that one of the top recommended local attractions was a major Shinto shrine,  Atsuta Jingu.  

Sugoi desu yo!  Shrines and temples are some of my favourite places to walk through.  

I enjoy their serene and spiritual spaces. 

I did not realise when I set out to see Atsuta Jingu, that not only would I see an important shrine, 

I would also be "tracing" the footsteps of my favourite Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi.

Atsuta Jingu  in the southern part of Nagoya is easily reached via subway or train.  I took

the Meitetsu Limited Express train from Nagoya Station, the same line that goes all the way 

to Nagoya Centrair Airport.  Just two stops later, I was at the Meitetsu Jingumae station, just a few minutes walk from the shrine.

At the crosswalk, I came upon this monk with his begging bowl.  It isn't very common to see monks begging in the streets in Japan.  To give alms  is considered an act of virtue so I dropped some coins in his bowl.  He bowed and started to chant some sutras.  I could hear his soft voice even as I walked away. 

This being July, the weather was hot and quite humid.   I was happy to see many trees in the shrine grounds, I would at least have some respite from the sun's rays.

The shrine occupies a sizeable acreage with the buildings spread out over spacious grounds.

I walked through the gate under the shade of countless trees.  The traffic noise from the road quickly evaporated and  even the temperature seemed to drop by a few degrees.  

  

One of the first buildings I saw was the Amulet Office where visitors can arrange for Shinto services, buy tokens, charms, souvenirs and amulets.  This is also where I got my goshuincho or temple and shrine seal book inscribed by a shrine priest.  

This is an ema -- a wooden plaque commonly sold in shrines and temples.  You can write your prayers or wishes on the ema and hang it on specially made racks in the shrine grounds.  

Each temple or shrine has a specific design for its ema, usually the symbol of the place itself.

This is the front or the exterior gate of the main shrine of Atsuta Jingu.  Ordinary visitors cannot 

go beyond this point.  The deity enshrined within is Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess. 

Atsuta Jingu dates way back to the first century.   The shrine buildings look new because  Shinto tradition dictates that major shrines are dismantled and rebuilt every 25 years.  

After the  Ise shrine in Mie (which I had also visited a few years ago)  Atsuta Jingu is the second largest Shinto shrine in Japan.

This is the door to the main shrine or the Hongu,  about 100 meters from where visitors stand.  

No one is allowed through those doors except for very select Shinto priests and sometimes some members of the royal family.   

However, ceremonies are conducted in the grounds in front of the Hongu.   You can see the Shinto priests in white on the right side performing prayers and rituals. 

The Hongu houses one of Japan's three major imperial regalia, a sword called the Kusanagi no Tsuragi.  The presence of this treasure makes Atsuta Jingu one of the three most important shrines 

in Japan. 

I took a walk through the shrine grounds, bowing in front before passing through a massive wooden torii. When walking through the torii, remember not to walk in the middle but walk only along the sides.  The middle path is reserved for the kami or gods.

It was a quiet weekday morning and not too many people were walking around.  In the distance you can see the faint outline of another torii, there are three in the shrine grounds.

A long panel of posters shows the shrine's history and significant events.  Sadly everything is in Japanese, I would have wanted to know more about the place.

You will most likely see these large sake barrels stacked on top of each other at Shinto shrines.  Mostly decorative, these barrels are donated by brewers and serve as some sort of advertising for their brands.  But mainly, sake barrels are present in shrines because sake is the drink of the gods.

This giant camphor tree is protected by a wooden fence and encircled by shimenawa from which shide are hung.  Shimenawa is a straw rope used in purification rituals.  They also denote a sacred 

and holy place.  This ancient camphor tree is said to have been planted by the great Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi 1,300 years ago!  

I was happily surprised and moved to find Kobo Daishi's presence here in Nagoya. 

Past the sacred camphor tree is this modern building.  This is the  Bunka-den.  

It is the Treasure Hall, a museum for all the valuable artefacts of the shrine. Many of these items 

are designated Important Cultural Assets  and are on display for the people to view and appreciate.

This giant stone lantern seems to have been swallowed up by the surrounding shrubbery.  This is 

the Sakuma-doro stone lantern, another important landmark in Atsuta Jingu's grounds.

If you turn off the main path and walk a bit deeper into the woods, you will find a small stone bridge spanning one of the many streams that meander through Atsuta Jingu.   

Called the Nijugocho Bashi, it is built with 25 stones and is the oldest stone bridge in Nagoya.  

To preserve this centuries old bridge, it is no longer used except perhaps for important ceremonies and festivals.

Crossing the stream, I came upon this blissful scene ...  lush greenery around a sun dappled pond 

complete with a lovely wooden pavilion that seemed to float above the water.    

Ducks floated lazily and several turtles were sunbathing on a large rock.  

I saw a stone bench and sat down on the cool surface.  I stayed for as long as I could, enjoying 

this grace filled moment -- saying a quiet prayer of thanks to the kami sama of Atsuta Jingu and 

of course, to Kobo Daishi.  

Kumano Kodo Day 5 Katsuura to Nachi Taisha : Climbing the stairs to the end of my pilgrimage

On the last day of our Kumano Kodo, I woke up with the thought that my hiking days were almost over.   There was one shrine left to visit -- Nachi Taisha.  Located at the top of Mt Nachi,  we would reach it by bus but with a bit of climbing left to do.

The bus terminal is right by the Kii Katsuura railway station.  This makes it convenient for those who come from Osaka or even Nagoya and who have time only for a day trip to the shrine.   

The round trip ticket will save you a few hundred yen.  We all needed to go our separate ways after lunch, so we took the 8:25 a.m. bus to give us enough time to get back to Katsuura.  There are buses that leave earlier, the first at 6:45 and again at 7:25. But those were a bit too early for us.

After a short 20 minute ride, we got off the bus at the stop for Daimonzaka -- which literally means "gate to the slope".  Nachi Taisha is located on Mt. Nachi,  just up ahead.

Near the bus stop is this familiar marker which we first saw at Takijiri Oji, 

at the start of  our hike.  The marker states that the Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo as well
as other landmarks and areas in the Kii Peninsula are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Here is the map that shows the way to the shrine.  I've marked the various points -- the red circle shows the bus stop where we got off.  Next is Daimonzaka (orange circle) which are the stone steps that lead to the shrine.  

From Daimonzaka,  we would continue to walk up to Nachi Taisha (pink circle) and then walk down to the bus stop (yellow circle) that would take us back to Katsuura. This bus stop is also nearest Nachi no Taki or Nachi Falls.   

Some visitors opt to do a counterclockwise route --  by getting off the bus at the yellow circle and walking their way down to the red circle.  

A plain stone torii marks the start of the sacred grounds of Nachi.  Past the small red bridge are a few souvenir huts before you reach the stone staircase of Daimonzaka which will lead you up from the base to the mid point of Mt Nachi.  

At the very start of the stairs  are a pair of giant cedar trees that are said to be 800 years old.
These are known as the meoto-sugi or husband and wife trees so called because their roots are entwined at the base, underneath the stone steps.

We begin the steep and very crowded ascent of Daimonzaka.
As it is a Sunday, we are inundated with busloads of Japanese tourists who much to my chagrin,
bound up the uneven stone steps with such ease.
For those who need assistance, bamboo walking sticks are available, use them and leave them at the top when you finish your climb.

The air that surrounds Daimonzaka is suffused with a primordial energy -- these stone steps date
back hundreds and hundreds of years.  Trodden and well worn with the steps of countless pilgrims,
I can feel and understand the attraction and powerful pull of the Kumano Kodo.

We dawdle along the slope and soon it is completely quiet and there is no one around but us.  

The giant camphor, cedar and bamboo trees along the steps keep us cool on this warm summer day.  It is an incredible walk up this ancient stone staircase.   Surrounded by the forest, one can feel the strong chi or energy coming from this  natural environment.  

While picturesque and photogenic,  Daimonzaka is also quite a bit of a walk.
There are almost 270 steps, some of them steeply inclined,  that go on for over 600 meters, with a
rise in elevation of 100 meters.  

You  need to watch your step as it's easy to trip over the broken and unevenly placed stones. 

I see my dear old friends, the ki-no ne or tree roots and say a fond farewell to them.
Perhaps we will meet again someday?

Past the midway point, we came upon a group of Japanese ladies excitedly peering through the
trees. They quickly motion me over to point out a tiny but distinct glimpse of Nachi-no-Taki or
Nachi Waterfalls.

Along the way, we saw this hollowed out tree,  so massive that four or even five people would comfortably fit inside.  

The light at the top of the steps means we are nearing the end of the slope.  It has been an invigorating and unique  experience, climbing the Daimonzaka.

At the top of the steps, I take one last look back.  With a slight rustle, the trees seem to shroud the stone steps.  If it disappeared before my very eyes,  I don't think I would have been that surprised.

A signpost shows the way to the shrine complex.  We are headed for the direction of Nachi Taisha and Nachi no Taki. 

It's a bit of a let down to come upon this concrete car park that mars the natural beauty of the place.  While I realise a car or taxi could have brought me up here, I would not have exchanged going up the Daimonzaka for that convenience.  

There are more steps to climb on the way to the shrine.  As in most major temples and shrines there are shops selling souvenirs, amulets and crafts along the way.  The shops in Nachi are located along this stone staircase.   You can do some shopping as you stop to catch your breath.

These wooden masks and statues would make such great souvenirs but Jay calls them "dust gatherers" so all I can do is look and admire.

There are also figurines made of a type of jet black stone -- these come from the Kii Peninsula Mountain range. 

For thirsty pilgrims, there are bottles of water and tea set out by the side.  Naturally cooled by flowing mountain water, I can imagine how refreshing these must be.

At the top of the steps is a large torii that marks the entrance to Nachi Taisha. 

The view of the lush green mountains is a stunning backdrop for the vermillion torii and the
lanterns that line the steps.   The mountain breezes are no match for the hot sun -- it's an energy draining slog up this long staircase. 

And what do you think I found at the top of the steps?  Another tall and steep staircase to climb.  

Thankfully, it was the last one. 

At the top of the mountain is Nachi Taisha.   It is the smallest of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and like the Hayatama Taisha is painted in the traditional red orange of the
Shinto shrine.  We line up to pay our respects and thank kami sama for allowing us to finish our pilgrimage safely.

Another group photo is in order -- the Amigos just completed the Kumano Kodo!

Otsukare sama deshita!

Off to one side of the shrine is this giant camphor tree that is almost a thousand years old.  A  stone torii guards the entrance to the base of the tree where stone steps take you to the small shrine within.
Shinto venerates all  of nature and certain venerable elements such as rocks, water or  trees are seen as power spots where kami or gods are present.
The shimenawa or rope hung with shide that you can see on the torii signifies that this is a sacred place.

Just a few steps away from Nachi Taisha is Seiganto-ji,  an important Buddhist temple and the first stop in the Saigoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage devoted to Kannon, goddess of mercy.  This temple is 

also designated as an Important Cultural Property.

As you prepare to climb the wooden steps, pay homage to a statue of Kannon, located on the left.

Seiganto-ji's hondo or main hall is made totally of wood and is a marvellous piece of temple architecture that dates back to 1590.  Can you see the bright red pavilion of Nachi Taisha peeking from the left side of the photo? 

The proximity of Shinto shrine to Buddhist temple is a very common all over Japan.  

I particularly noticed it here along the Kumano Kodo where shrines to Oji or children of Shinto deities co-exist side by side with statues of jizos or Buddhist bodhisattvas. 

The Japanese observe and practice both Shinto and Buddhist rituals and traditions. 

I tried as best as I could to capture one of the more iconic scenes of the Kumano Kodo.  

As you walk down from the temple and the shrine, you will come to Sanjudo, the orange three-story pagoda of Seiganto-ji with Nachi-no-Taki, Japan's tallest waterfalls in the background.  

Even from this distance,  I could sense the power of the waters as it cascaded down from the mountain.

Rumor has it that the monks of Seiganto-ji know a secret spot to take the best photo from but since 

I did not run into any monk, I was not able to ask.  I can only hope my photo somehow captures this magnificent sight. 

From the pagoda, it was downhill all the way ... literally.  A 10- minute walk over paved roads 

took us down to the  stop for the bus back to Katsuura. This is right in front of the entrance 

to the stairs leading to Nachi no Taki.

On hindsight, it seems rather anticlimactic to end my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage at a bus stop.  

In a perfect scenario, I should be bowing to the gods on top of a windswept mountain or if I had 

the time, I could have been standing near the crashing waters of Nachi no Taki.

But perhaps is isn't so bad -- after all,  I was waiting for a bus  ...  to take me on to the next journey and on to the next pilgrimage.   

Ganbatte!

Lessons learned: 

1. The way down is harder than the way up.  Don't be daunted by the numerous stairs to climb, take the normal route of Daimonzaka to the Nachi Taisha.

2. The falls should be a gorgeous sight, leave enough time in your visit for the walk down to the falls.  I'm sorry we missed doing that.

3. Photos were not allowed inside the Seiganto-ji but don't miss a visit inside to see the beautiful treasures on display.

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Kumano Kodo Day 4 : Feeling like royalty as I sail down the Kumanogawa on my way to the Hayatama Taisha

Pilgrims have been enduring hardships and walking the Kumano Kodo for a thousand years.  

But in the early days, a select group of pilgrims,  composed of royalty and later on the aristocrat class,  had access to another,  easier way of doing part of the pilgrimage --  they sailed down the Kumanogawa on their way to visit the three Kumano Grand Shrines.
Ensconced in the comfort and luxury of their royal boats, they could relax and just drift down
the river. 

On the fourth day of our pilgrimage and on our way to visit the second shrine, the Hayatama Taisha, we did as the emperors and aristocrats did (although not in such style)  ... we traveled part of the way by traditional  boats along the river. 

Our expedition started at the Kawabune River Boat Tour Center where we had reservations to the 10:00 a.m. sailing.  To get there,  we took a bus from Yunomine and got off at the bus stop at Hitari.   Then we got into a shuttle bus for the short ride to the riverbank where the boats were waiting for us.  

Part of the safety regulations had us wearing bright orange life jackets.  We were also given native straw hats (which looked so much like our own salakot) as protection from the heat of the sun.

The flat bottomed boats are modelled after the original ones that used to ply these waters, centuries and centuries ago. As a nod to modernity (and faster travel time) the boats have been outfitted with powerful motors. 

Each boat can carry just eight people, including the guide and the boatman.  

While pilgrims of old took days to sail down 40 kilometres of the Kumanogawa, we would 

journey over 16 kilometres and take just 90 minutes to do so.

As in every river, lake, pond, brook, stream, etc that I have seen in Japan, the waters are crystal clear. 

As we sailed through the twists and bends of the river, the water changed colour but it was always beautifully translucently clean ... in the shallower portions, I could see all the way down to the rocks at the bottom.

Our guide was multi-lingual.  As we were a mix of Japanese and Filipinos,  he switched his commentary from Nihongo to English with great ease.  

While the boat was equipped with a motor, we did pass through some rapids where the skill of
the pilot was put to good use.  Would you believe that our pilot, this man in white standing at the back of  the boat, is more than 80 years old?  He was so fit and looked cool and hip.
Our guide said he had been doing this for almost sixty years.  

There are quite a number of interesting and unique rock formations that we passed through.
One large pile of rocks looked to me like a large sleeping puppy.  

We got out of the boat for a brief look-see  and our resident professional geologist and
amigo Mike,  could not resist scrambling up  for a photo.  

It was great to be out in the middle of the river, surrounded by the splendour of Mother Nature.  

And being on a boat was definitely less tiring than walking.

The perfect soundtrack to this blissful boat ride was the sound of wild birds. They would fly high above our boats and sometimes gracefully skim the waters.   They were so swift though and wouldn't keep still for a photo.

We saw this lone fisherman on the riverbank.  I wonder what kind of fish live in the Kumanogawa?

As we neared our destination, the boat slowed down to a stop and our guide whipped out a small native flute.  He serenaded us with a lilting melody that he said was what the royal party in the olden days would have listened to as their boats traveled down the river.
It was like sailing back in time.

Our boat ride ended quite near our goal for today -- the second Kumano Grand Shrine, the
Hayatama Taisha.  The shrine is located by the Kumanogawa in Shingu City.
We were met by our local Mi-Kumano guides and Shingu City residents Masako san and Hitomi san.

Shinto venerates all of nature.  The past four days, our pilgrimage had exposed us to the beauty,
the majesty and yes, the power of nature.
The kami or gods are everywhere.  I am sure they are present in this sacred tree, a  nagi-no ki that is over 800 years old.  It is one of the significant sights in  Hayatama Taisha.   Long may it continue to thrive. 

There is a small building guarded by a fierce looking statue.  This is where Hayatama Taisha's historical and cultural artefacts are kept -- many of them are considered as National Treasures of Japan. 

The entrance to the main shrine of Hayatama Taisha is vividly vermillion and as in all Shinto shrines, is adorned with a thick shimenawa hanging from its posts.  It is customary to purify yourself at the temizuya and bow before you cross the threshold. 

  

Hayatama is a most important shrine because this is where the gods Kumano Hayatama no Omikami, Kumano Musubi no Omikami and Ketsumi Miko Omikami are enshrined. 

The gods originally descended atop a steep hill within the Hayatama compound.  There is a shrine there called Kamikura jinja but to reach it, you need to climb over 500 steep and uneven stone steps.  However, for pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo, it is mandatory to visit only the Hayatama Taisha.  

We take our requisite photo in front of the shrine and with this, we have completed two thirds of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. 

There are minor shrines within the compound like this one, which is located near the main entrance.

From this point,  it was just a few steps on to the sidewalks of Shingu City.  As I crossed the small bridge,  I looked back at the torii guarding the entrance and bowed deeply -- bidding the gods farewell. 

Having visited two of the three Grand Shrines, my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage was nearing its end. And yet somehow,  I just wanted to keep on walking.   

Lessons Learned

1. The sun can be quite fierce  on the open-air boats, don't forget your sunblock (as I did).
2. You can't bring your backpacks and handbags on board the boat, for obvious safety reasons.  They will put your things on the shuttle bus and give them back to you at the end of the ride.  Bring a small plastic bag to keep your camera and gadgets  in so they won't get wet.

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