Our excursion to Lyon was successful -- we didn't get lost, our train journey was smooth and went without a hitch! We both felt like seasoned SNCF commuters!
Our second foray out of Paris was to
Strasbourg -- a bit farther out at 490 kilometers from the capital. This time, we left through
Gare de l'Est. Our train was due to leave just before 7 am and it was still dark when we got to the station.
What is it about
french trains and the color blue? Is it because inherent romantics that they are, the
french associate train travel with leaving, departures, good byes and sadness?
I feel train journeys are opportunities for adventure! I find trains rides exciting, and definitely more relaxing and pleasant than taking the plane. This huge mural right above the station doors perfectly captured the joyous, busy aspects of train travel for me.
We got to
Strasbourg a little after 9 am, after a two and a half hour journey -- gliding through the north of France.
Strasbourg is in the
Alsace district and is very close to Germany -- you could say it is more German than French.
First stop was the tourist information office, conveniently located in the
Gare Centrale of
Strasbourg. We picked up our maps, brochures and got a day pass for riding around in the city trams and buses.
The tram was sleek, efficient and a great way to get around this smallish city. There are a number of lines that effectively criss cross through
Strasbourg's streets.
This is the reason why I booked train tickets to
Strasbourg. Known as the
"Capital of Christmas", Strasbourg has a long tradition of Christmas markets or
marches noel. Quaint, picturesque, colorful and oozing Christmas spirit from every pore -- this lovely little city truly typifies everything beautiful and joyous about Christmas!
There are over 12 different markets spread out throughout the center of
Strasbourg. Each market has booths and kiosks selling all sorts of specialties from
Strasbourg, the
Alsace region and the whole of
France. Little houses that show typical
Alsatian architecture are popular items.
Many of the booths had local delicacies such as this
kugelhopf, a
bundt cake that is originally from Germany.
Gingerbread in various shapes make for cheerful gift ideas.
This booth sold candles and soap handmade from beeswax and honey -- the fragrance wafted throughout the
marche.
Many booths sold Christmas decor and Christmas toys -- of course, not all were made locally -- sadly, China has penetrated the Christmas market.
Strasbourg's tourism office was decorated with this awesomely gigantic gingerbread man. It looked real enough to eat!
Most of the old buildings in
Strasbourg follow this very typical
Alsatian style of narrow, tall structures with many windows. They added to the overall charm and unique appeal of the place.
We enjoyed walking through the many narrow streets of
Strasbourg, delighting in the different Christmas markets we stumbled on. As we were wondering if it would be a good time to eat lunch, we came upon this pig mounted on a wall -- just the sign we were looking for to head off for some typical Alsatian
choucroute garnie!
We rounded the corner of rue de Chaudron, and came upon this restaurant called Winstub le Clou.
The door was shut, we had no reservations. But when we timidly pushed the door open, a very gracious and smiling lady welcomed us in.
Voila, she could speak English!
And why not, Strasbourg aside from being the Capital of Christmas and therefore a tourist draw, is also the site of the European Parliament. Definitely English as the language of business would be spoken here.
We had no reservations but we came at an opportune time -- there was one table left for 2 and it was ours!
To celebrate, I deviated from my usual beer and ordered a glass of riesling -- this being Alsace after all, why not indulge in a typical German wine. It came in a pretty little glass and was just perfect.
Winstub le Clou has dark paneled walls hung with paintings of old Strasbourg. It seemed like a restaurant right out of another era. The tables, covered with colorful red printed tablecloths, are set closely together, to maximize the smallish space.
We ordered the
Alsatian specialty --
choucroute garnie or assorted sausages and boiled meats traditionally served with sauerkraut and a boiled potato.
A plate had two types of boiled sausage and three slices of cured pork.
What can I say -- I fell off the vegetarian wagon in
Strasbourg!
Pork in road was back ... and with a vengeance.
The
choucroute garnie was excellent and well worth falling off the wagon for.
After lunch, we walked through the various streets enjoying the elaborate Christmas decor on the buildings. Everything was Christmassy and bright -- perfect for children and for kids at heart!
Strasbourg's beautiful cathedral, built with pink and white stone, stands imposingly at the center of town -- it's one of the most beautiful churches I have seen in Europe and really worth a visit.
We walked further away from the Cathedral and come upon the little river
Ill. I don't want to say that an
Ill river runs through this lovely little city -- but that's what it's called.
The buildings, the river, the bridges --
Strasbourg reminds me a lot of Amsterdam.
The houses stand cheek to cheek with each other and add to the Amsterdam effect.
If
Lyon felt
Italian, definitely
Strasbourg felt
Dutch to me!
It is mid afternoon and time to head back to
Strasbourg's seemingly out of place ultra modern
Gare Centrale. Our train back to Paris is due to leave just before 4 pm.
We have spent the better part of six hours enjoying this aptly called
Capital of Christmas -- and may
I add, I will now also forever think of Strasbourg as the
Capital of Choucroute Garni!