A Quick Meal around the Hakone Yumoto Station

We had slightly less than an hour before the Romance Car would whisk us back to Shinjuku station from Hakone Yumoto.  An afternoon amidst gorgeous and awesome art at the Hakone Open Air Museum had banished all thoughts of food from our minds.  

Now,  with barely an hour before our train left, we realized we hadn't had lunch and were all of a sudden, ravenously hungry.

 There was a small cafe inside the train station but we decided to do a quick survey around the area.  Surely since this was a tourist town, we would find a place that would serve food, even at the rather un-foodly hour of 4 pm.  We crossed the road from the train station using the overhead walkway.

There were a lot of souvenir shops selling arts, crafts, clothes and Hakone delicacies.  Such a quaint atmosphere.  I would have loved to do some more walking around the town.

This fish and seafood market was very attractive.  There were ready to take home packs of sashimi and sushi and lots of fresh looking fish on the refrigerated shelves.

Aha, food! In between the sweets shop and the souvenir shop was this restaurant and it was open.

A picture menu on the window showed that the specialty was udon -- udon with tempura, udon with egg, udon with yuba,  udon with kakiage.  Hot soup and noodles - this would be just the thing for this cold afternoon.

Obviously, the shop makes its own noodles, as I could see from my bowl of tanuki udon.  

The noodles are irregularly sized and look like they have been cut by hand.  

They are deliciously fresh and chewy.  

Lots of seaweed in the broth make for a strong and rich umami-ness.

The smiling lady at the counter speaks no english and the menus are all in Japanese, as is the sign outside the restaurant.  I guess I will never know the name of this wonderful little udon place.

Before hopping on the train, we have just a few minutes to spare so I grab some traditional sesame paste sweets, which are what Hakone is famous for.  

There is this very venerable looking store called Nano Hana from which I buy just two small cakes -- just to eat and taste on the train ride home.

The store clerks must have been wondering why the gaijin bought only two when all the rest of the tourists were buying boxes and boxes of these small sweets.

These small cakes filled with sesame paste are so delicious -- the steamed rice cake cover reminds me of our very own puto --  puto binan to be exact.  Oishii desu yo! 

We finished both cakes before you could say "Hakone".  

I secretly regret that I bought only two!

Hakone Open Air Museum -- Where Art is Showcased by Nature and vice versa

The last time I hied off to a solo day tour to Hakone, I was not able to visit the place I had originally intended to go to - the Hakone Open Air Museum.  

I got so caught up in doing the "Hakone Loop" that I didn't leave myself with enough time.  

On this last trip to Tokyo, I was glad to have Jay with me -- we would go back to Hakone and we would make sure that the museum would be our primary destination.

It helped that we had an early start and were able to complete the "Loop" by lunchtime.  

We arrived at Chokokunomori Station, a mere 3 minute walk to the museum via the Hakone Tozan Railway just a little past 1 pm.  

The day was clear and bright -- but very cold.  Would traipsing about outdoors, even among world class art, prove to be unbearably chilly? 

From the outside or even from the entrance to the museum grounds, first timers (like us) don't quite have a hint of just what it is that is in store for them.

We walk through the entrance and the vista of art amidst sky and natural landscape opens.

Large bronze and brass sculptures by renowned sculptors and artists in the most amazing forms are all over the grounds.

This massive bull stands perpetually ready to charge or perhaps, he is just about to graze?

On a shallow reflecting pool lies this gigantic marble head, with a lush growth of greenery growing around it -- a veritable verdant hair do.  It is just so overwhelming that I take my time, exhale and just sit and reflect.

There are several galleries within the museum but the art out in the open air is what truly moves and astonishes me.  This giant metal piece is by Calder.

The Hakone Open Air Museum has the distinction of having more than 20 pieces of Henry Moore's large sculptures.  Working on his recurring themes of mother and child, sculptures within sculptures and reclining figures, it is just amazing to see his work all over the place.

The museum is in the vicinity of the Fuji Hakone Izu National Park.  Since this area is mountainous, the museum is on land that is about 550 meters above sea level.  The mountains of Hakone and the rolling landscape are the perfect backdrop to the seemingly never ending display of art.

 It is one thing to see art in museums ... framed on walls, kept behind protective glass, placed on pedestals.  

But the art here is out in the open, you don't get to just see it ... you get to  react to it and really experience it.

What an amazing place this is!

These small figures hug the wall and placed one on top of the other seem to be reaching to escape and jump over the borders.

Everywhere you look, you see sculpture in various forms.
Because it's winter, the ground is brown and the trees are bare of leaves but I can imagine, in my mind's eye what this would look during spring or summer.
All these pieces amidst lush greenery must be a totally different experience again.

This large block of Carrara marble that formed these figures probably comes from the same place where Michelangelo got his stones.

Not all art is heavy or ponderous -- or solemn or serious.  Much of it is whimsical, light even humorous.  How we respond and react to art is entirely personal.  Much of the snobbery surrounding art revolves around how one is supposed to be moved by a specific piece.
I believe each person has his own take -- art is purely subjective and personal.
I find myself smiling at this piece by Turner Prize winner  Anthony Gormley.  
It was surely not his intention but this figure lying flat on the ground reminded me of  how I feel at the end of the work year.  Flat out spent and exhausted.

We walk slowly through the grounds, discovering more and more treasures -- as we turn a corner, as we walk up a flight of concrete stairs.

I am truly happy to see so many of Henry Moore's large pieces.  It is amazing that this museum in the middle of the mountains should have such an impressive and significant collection of works by this major artist.

The white building in the background houses Henry Moore's smaller pieces plus a well stocked gift shop and small coffee shop.  What holds our attention though is what you see in the foreground -- an open air hot water foot bath!  It is so unexpected yet so natural in this unique open air setting.  Particularly since Hakone is known for its many natural hot springs, this comes as a welcome feature.
There is no one around and we make a beeline to soak our cold feet in the hot spring water.

The museum have thoughtfully provided for visitors like us who cannot resist the lure of the foot onsen.  There is a small cabinet with  washcloths for sale -- 100 yen, honor system -- get a towel and slip a coin into the slot.  Exactly what you need to dry your feet with.
The water, which is perfumed by large orange halves floating along,  is extremely hot at 65C but as we continue to slowly dip our toes, we get used to the heat and pretty soon, we are having a lovely long soak.
Only the thought of minor degree burns makes us get up, put on our socks and shoes and continue our way through the museum.
Still, it was such a wonderful albeit short interlude -- our feet felt so good afterwards!

Aside from Henry Moore and the others who are all in the international list of who's who in sculpture, the other major talent in the Hakone Open Air Museum is Pablo Picasso.  There is a gallery devoted to over 300 pieces of his work - from drawings, etchings, prints and paintings.

On this side of the museum grounds, the pine trees still  have their green needles and the ground is covered with plants that are a bright green hue.  The winter must be mild for these hardy species to survive.  More gorgeous bronze pieces await you at every turn.

 How I wish I could just sit on a bench and just stay here -- contemplating the stunning panorama of nature and art.  They complement each other perfectly.

This large wooden piece is called Woods of Net and is an interactive work where you can go in and enjoy yourself amidst the swinging nets that are suspended from the ceiling.

We have made the circuit of the museum and find ourselves headed back towards the exit.  This large obelisk has two huge bronze pieces that seem to be floating on air.  It is "Man and Pegasus" by Swedish sculptor Carl Milles.
I think flight could be the theme for this whole glorious place -- flight from the ordinary, the mundane -- flight to whatever and wherever your mind can take you.

The Hakone Open Air Museum is a typical example of the Japanese character "wa"... which means harmony and peace.  This museum, set amidst such a stunning backdrop of mountains and sky, could easily have been overpowered by Nature.
Instead, they co-exist in complete balance and harmony.
Truly wa, truly Japanese.
It has also helped restore my own sense of "wa" -- after just a few hours, I feel I have recovered my own sense of peace and harmony.

An afternoon spent amidst such a spectacular setting is truly an afternoon we will always remember and cherish.  These moments are what make travel so life-enhancing.  These gifts that come my way are gifts that will always be with me.  

Domo arigato gozaimashita, Hakone Open Air Musem -- thank you for your gift of "wa".

Traveling Alone To Hakone Part 2 - The Hakone Loop

I arrived in Hakone Yumoto station, the springboard for exploring Hakone, just before 11 a.m.  Congratulating myself that the morning had gone pretty well.  Amidst the chaotic madness of Shinjuku Station, I had been able to find the ticket booth, then find the train platform, gotten on the right train, had a hearty and tasty eki ben breakfast and seen much of the countryside from my window seat -- I was looking forward to things going smoothly from this point on.

From Hakone Yumoto station, the Hakone Freepass will get you on the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Gora Station.  This little red train takes you up the mountains, chugging along and stopping at various quaint and picturesque towns.  Most of the small towns have well known onsen resorts and hotels that are full of local travelers particularly during holidays and week-ends.

As we made our way slowly up the mountain I spent some time reading the handy station guide posted inside the train.  This little poster tracks the whole Hakone Loop -- taking into account the various modes of transportation that you will be using for the whole route.

The train was packed with lots of young students out for a field trip.  As with all young people, they were lively, noisy and excited to be out for the day.

Most of the stations where the train stopped  were not more than just small sheds with a bench or two.  This fat yellow tabby seemed to be the pet of this particular station guard.  So adorable ... I'm glad I was able to take the photo.

After about 35 minutes, we reached Gora Station, more than 500 meters above sea level and last stop for the Hakone Tozan Railway.  From here, I would have to take a short but uphill 900 meter ride on the Hakone Tozan Cable Car to Sounzan.

Since the masses of students who got off with me were all taking the cable car, I decided to hang back a bit and take a quick stroll outside of the station.  Gora was a picture perfect little town and a few minutes wandering around would surely yield some delights.

True enough -- I was able to walk around and enjoy the village atmosphere of Gora.  I also did a little window shopping in the  stores right around the station.  The air was cool and a bit nippy -- autumn had started after all.  It was beautiful weather for walking around.

As I was ending my short walk about, the next train from Hakone Yumoto tootled by.

Oh no, I would have to contend with a whole new horde of travelers taking the cable car.

And yes, a long line had already formed by the time I got to the queue.  More students, more local tourists.  I was the only foreigner on the platform.

The climb from Gora Station to Sounzan, the end terminal of the Hakone Tozan Cablecar takes just 10 minutes.  You can actually huff and puff up -- it's just a 900 meter ride after all but the steady uphill slope will easily tire you.
The cable car makes a couple of stops -- there are small museums, crafts stores, coffee shops and little clusters of houses along the way.

Sounzan is where you take the Hakone Ropeway.  This is one of the longest ropeway journeys in the world.  From Sounzan to the end point in Togendai, the journey takes 30 minutes.
These very sturdy and safe looking gondolas can fit up to 15 people at a time.
There was a long queue but since a gondola arrives every minute, the line moved quickly and before I knew it,  I  was being handed into a gondola and the doors were locked in place behind me.

I looked back at the Sounzan ropeway station.  The ropeway would take us to Owakudani where we would have to transfer to another gondola for the ride to Togendai.

We were packed in our gondola -- I shared the ride with two groups of Japanese families who of course spoke no English but were friendly enough to nod and smile.

This is the highest point of the ropeway -- below are the enormous sulfur mines of Owakudani where if you get off -- you can buy the famous black sulfur water boiled eggs that the place is famous for.

Some people opted to leave the ropeway at this stop -- perhaps to eat some of the famous "black" sulfur eggs. I transferred to another gondola to continue on to Togendai.

Togendai is on the shores of scenic Lake Ashi.  From here, you can take a boat to Hakone Machi and Moto Hakone, where the Hakone Freepass will get you on a bus for the two hour drive back to Tokyo. During the boat ride, if weather and luck permit it , Mt. Fuji may allow a glimpse of his noble face.  

It was a cloudy day so I very much doubted a Mt. Fuji sighting.

Since it was past 2 when I got to Togendai, I didn't want to ride all the way to Moto Hakone and take a bus back to Shinjuku.
I decided to get off the Hakone Loop and go back the way I came.  Besides, the Romance Car seemed  a much more attractive option than a bus!
But first things first ...  I had to have lunch!
It's a good thing that Togendai has a big eating hall where a good variety of Japanese meals are available.   You line up and order, canteen style.
My Hakone Freepass even entitled me to a 5% discount on my meal!

Surprise, surprise - the restaurant had a vegetarian option!  I got a large bowl of kakiage udon plus an equally large mug of draft beer -- specially brewed in the Hakone area.
Ice cold beer and warm noodle soup -- who knew it would be so well matched?

At 2 pm, the dining crowd had thinned out so I was able to get a table facing the window.
I enjoyed gazing out on the incongruous sight of two fully decked out pirate ships of the Hakone Sightseeing Boat line on the calm waters of Lake Ashi.

My lunch was so quiet and so relaxing, the beer was so cold and so refreshing that I wished I could stand up, order another beer and sit and stare out at the lake for as long as I wanted.
Such are the pleasures of solitary travel.
But, I needed to make it back to Tokyo before the rush hour hit Shinjuku Station so regretfully, I left my window seat and got back on the Hakone Ropeway that would take me back, the way I came in.

If I had travelled just a few weeks later, this hillside would be awash in the reds, yellows and oranges that make autumn in Japan so spectacular.  

That would have been a glorious sight to see.  For now, I had to be content with small patches of red that infrequently appeared along the tree covered mountain side.

On this trip back, the gondola was empty -- I had it all to myself!   Everyone else had gone on to Moto Hakone and Hakone machi on board the pirate ships.  I was the only one making the trip back.  It certainly added to the specialness and contentment of traveling alone.

Once again, here was the familiar sight of the Sounzan terminal where I would get off the ropeway and step back on the cable car that would take me to Gora and from Gora, back on the Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone Yumoto station.

I was right on time!  Waiting for passengers was the Romance Car bound for Shinjuku.  This time, it was a sleeker and newer version than the one I rode earlier in the morning.
Called the Super Express 5000,  the front car had huge picture windows for the first few seats and larger and wider windows all throughout -- allowing for a wider and more panoramic view.

I had asked the ticket seller for good seats on the train.  It was just 3:30 in the afternoon and still bright and sunny outside -- perhaps I would be lucky and get one of those front row panoramic vista seats?

The train's seats are numbered from highest in front to lowest number in the back.  So after the initial excitement of thinking that my seat number of 2D meant that I would be seated at the front of the car, I quickly realized that it  was actually a seat in the rear.

But this was nothing at all -- not a blip or a bump in this perfect day.
I still had a window seat -- I would still enjoy the scenery for as long as the light held out.
I was on the Romance Car back to hectic bustling Shinjuku and back to brightly lit Tokyo.  
So aptly named -- the Romance Car had rekindled for me  the love and pleasure of traveling alone.