Dimsum Breakfast at President Tea House in Binondo

One Saturday morning, I woke up with an intense longing for a good old fashioned dim sum breakfast.  Since I was not in Hong Kong, the best way to satisfy the urge was to head all the way to Binondo to enjoy all my favourites at President Tea House.

Because of the horrendous Saturday traffic, it was nearer brunch time when we  got to our destination.  But no matter, we were still given the condensed early morning menu which includes congee, noodles, rice toppings and of course, dim sum.

It had been a while since I had been to the Binondo branch and was pleased to see that President Tea House had renovated their interiors -- it's brighter, more modern looking and the predominantly cream coloured booths make for a cleaner look.

One of the reasons why I love dim sum is that it is encouraged that you  have many small bites on the table.  That way, you enjoy tantalising little tastes of many things -- all of them delicious.

I couldn't decide if I wanted noodles or congee this morning.  So I ordered both. We had the house special -- beef brisket and wonton noodles plus a bowl of pork bola bola congee.  They came in deep bowls, perfect for sharing.

Congee is best eaten with bicho bicho or crullers -- the crunchy "sticks" add texture and chewiness to an otherwise soft, simple bowl of boiled rice.

We craved for something oily -- so I ordered radish cake which came delightfully deep fried and instead of one big slice, was artfully cut up in small cubes, the better to apportion and enjoy.

I cannot pass up steamed spare ribs with tausi or black bean.  It's a simple dish but very easy to get all wrong -- sometimes, the pork can be tough, sometimes it's too fatty, or too salty.  President Tea House gets it done just right.  The small bite size morsels are tender and the black beans do not overpower the dish.

President Tea House's asado siopao comes two to an order.  We also ordered a jumbo bola bola pao but that wasn't as good as the asado so be warned!

The pork and shrimp siomai was juicy and scrumptious.  Dim sum literally means "touch the heart" and yes, these little dumplings did just that.

The hakaw or shrimp siomai was equally good -- the shrimp were whole and fresh and the transparent rice wrapper was not too thick.  This is how hakaw should be.

Our hands down favourite was the quail's egg siomai.  Just three pieces to an order, each small whole quail's egg is placed on top of a smidgen of ground pork and then bundled up in a wonton wrapper and steamed.  It was a little pocket of delight.

Next time you have a craving for authentic old fashioned dim sum -- make your way to President Tea House, the main store in Salazar Street in Binondo is the best place to fulfil your dim sum desires.

Chef Wong's Dim Sum Dining in Sham Shui Po - tasty discovery of take out treats

We had just polished off two plates of porky deliciousness and were on our way back to the MTR station when I spotted this colourful restaurant generically called .... Dim Sum Dining.

It was on Pei Ho street, near the entrance to the MTR and there was just so much clutter ... lots of photos of food, clippings of magazine and newspaper reviews,  all sorts of kitschy decor ... pumpkins on the roof, machang or lotus leaf wrapped rice hanging in bundles, a toaster oven that was sending off interesting aromas .... I just had to stop.

After I had bought some of the baked pies in the toaster oven,  a whole crowd suddenly appeared seemingly from nowhere.  It seems this little place is quite popular.  When I checked on openrice.com, I learned that the owner of Dim Sum Dining is Chef Wong, who used to be the executive chef of Maxim's - one of the largest restaurant and catering companies in Hong Kong.  He probably finally decided that he would do much better if he opened his own place.

I took home two pieces of the pan fried duck bun and one order of the char siew steamed bun or siopao.  The pan fried duck buns were golden brown on top and on the bottom.  They were heavy, compressed little discs and were still warm when we got to the hotel.

Even if I was still reeling from the lunch at Guangdong, I knew these little baked buns wouldn't taste good if I didn't have them while they were still warm.  I broke one in half and it was full of duck meat, mixed with chopped vegetables in a chinese spice flavoured dark caramelised sauce.
It may not have been the thing to end a heavy lunch with but it was a wonderful find.
Next time, I know enough to go back to Dim Sum Dining to unearth more of what dim sum delights it offers.

Old Favorite with a New Look -- Ho Hung Kee at Hysan Place (My Week-end in Hong Kong Part 3)

Depending on how you like your good old Cantonese slash Guangdong food, 

you may be like me -- the best restaurants are not usually the prettiest or the newest or the fanciest.  My go-to Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong are all old, small -- some are quite seedy looking but  they each have a very loyal clientele that appreciates good taste ... in food more than in ambience.

Ho Hung Kee (Mr. Ho's Shop. "Kee" stands for shop, which is why it seems that almost every other chinese restaurant in Hong Kong has "Kee" in its name) has been around for over 60 years and has received accolades, both from diners and lately, even a star from the Michelin Guide. A Michelin star, particularly for a local dim sum restaurant always adds to the already long queues snaking out the door.  

Ho Hung Kee now has a branch  on the 12th floor of upscale mall Hysan Place so my friends and I were able to go and try it out without having to worry about the long wait.  To ensure we had a table for our party of 5, we went for an early dinner at 6:30 p.m.  There was hardly any one around.

The cool blue interiors, the fancy lanterns,  crystal accents and the classic blue and white pottery looked completely at home in the mall.  While it was my first time to eat in Ho Hung Kee, 

my foodie friend who is very much at home in Hong Kong, and who was with us for dinner had recommended it on the strength of its reviews.   

I did wonder if all these froufrou accoutrements would add to or distract  from the food experience.  

Since there were five of us, we were able to order quite a number of things from the menu.  The Fried Sauce Noodle was sweetish  spicy and had generous amounts of tender slices of pork.  Each forkful of noodle blended with the sauce and a bit of pork was a tasty treat.  It was quite a big serving too -- perfectly proportioned for sharing!

 These  Baked Barbecue Pork Buns were delightful little bites of goodness. The pastry was not so oily.   The char siew filling was tender, not overwhelmed by the sauce and certainly not too minced -- you could taste the small savoury bits of barbecued pork.   Each order came with three pieces and since we were 5,  there was a lot of hemming and hawing as to who would get the last order.  

Ahem, it was not me.

We also ordered a yuba skin dim sum which I wasn't able to taste as I was concentrating on the above mentioned Barbecued Pork bun.  Always go for the meaningful calories, that's my motto!

Ho Hung Kee has built its reputation (and its 1-star Michelin rating) on their Shrimp Wonton Noodles. So of course, we ordered two bowls.  What a disappointment! 

The serving was small.  The shrimp wontons were puny and quite bland.  

The noodles had that slight alkaline taste which always puts me off.  

The shrimp wonton noodles at Tsim Chai Kee are head and shoulders above Ho Hung Kee's.  

My tastebuds and I cannot understand how they can claim that this is their signature dish.  

My friend ordered this Curry Prawns and we all agreed that it was a terrific choice.  The prawns were big and succulent  and the curry sauce was just sublime!  Tiny-beads-of-sweat inducing hot but you could taste the richness and goodness of the spices.  Please don't judge this by its messy appearance, I took this photo after we had all taken a spoonful from the bowl.  And we all had the same thought afterwards  -- we wished we had a bowl of rice to sop up the curry sauce with!

Cheung fan is one of my dim sum favourites.  We ordered this large portion of assorted rice rolls.  They arrived with the sauce placed thoughtfully on the side.  I thought each silken savoury bite needed no sauce at all.  It was easily my favourite dish in Ho Hung Kee, in its fancy-fied, prettified incarnation in Hysan Place.

Dragon City Tea House at 彩虹牛池灣村67號B地下 Dimsum to Die For!

If you only know the cosmopolitan and uber trendy side of Hong Kong, you miss out on the many amazing pockets of deliciousness that are tucked away from the tourist's gaze.

Choi Hung Estates in Hong Kong is one of the oldest public housing estates.  The many towers of apartment buildings have given rise to a sprawling market, dai pa dongs, and traditional eateries where only the locals eat.

On this last solo excursion to Hong Kong, I asked Michael Hansen of Hansen's Hikes to plan another hike for me -- albeit an urban crawl this time.  I also specifically requested that we end our walk with lunch at another very local, traditional eatery.  

And so, this is how I discovered Dragon City Tea House.

As you can see from the photo, it's a ramshackle kind of place (without an English sign) but don't be deceived -- the dilapidated, shabby ambience is inversely proportional to the taste of the food.

This being a "tea house" Dragon City serves light refreshments from morning till noon but there are other small dishes that may be ordered.  We settled on dim sum since Michael vouched that varieties on hand were well worth ordering.
The hakaw or har gow were indeed rave worthy -- the skin was translucent and fine but didn't break, stick or tear when you lifted it from the steamer.
Each small lovely bundle yielded several plump and fresh prawns inside.  It was much better than har gow I had eaten in far fancier and more expensive places.

What dim sum meal is complete without siu mai?  This most popular and classic dim sum was outstanding too.  Delectably delicious,  I could really detect each tasty little bit of coarsely ground seasoned pork.  The bright smidgen of colour on top was not grated carrot but real shrimp roe -- the traditional topping for siu mai.

I had to try the steamed spare rib rice which came with chicken feet.  This was so well seasoned with the flavours of black bean and red chili pepper mixing with the aroma and and fragrance of the glutinous rice.  I ate it local style -- putting the small bones neatly on the table, beside my cup.

Lots of locals were already eating when we arrived.  Dim sum is a casual meal and you can see from the regulars just how relaxed the atmosphere is.  We actually shared our table with two other solo diners but I must admit, we dawdled over our meal far longer than they did.

A pot of black tea accompanied our orders.  I was certainly amused when the same hot tea that we drank was the same liquid that they used to scald the utensils and tea cups that were given to us.

Since it was boiling hot, I suppose it was enough to "kill" all the germs.

The dim sum cart  is in plain view of every one.  If you want to eat some more, all you have to do is walk over and make your choice.

I thought that this dim sum roll looked interesting -- the yuba or tofu skin is wrapped around strips of ham and vegetables.  It was very savoury and quite filling.

There were metal hooks on the ceiling -- Michael said that the locals who come for their tea and dim sum breakfast each morning bring their pet birds and hang the cages on these hooks.
I can just imagine how busy, noisy and cheerful breakfast time must be.
It's another experience to look forward to, next time I am in Hong Kong.other

Shanghai Hong Kong Noodle Shop -- Eating Well for under HK $50

I was in Hong Kong for the long week-end and stayed again at my new favourite, the J Plus Hotel in Causeway Bay.  This area is worlds removed from the touristy feel of Canton Road in Kowloon where you are jostled by tourists who stand shoulder to shoulder, queuing for signature bags at Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and all the other luxury stores.

Causeway Bay is dotted with lots of small boutiques, cafes, shops and markets, street vendors with cartfuls of knock offs line small alleyways,  the lights are bright and people are out and about past midnight and you can find restaurants that serve local meals at very affordable prices.  

One small place along Jardine's Bazaar,  just a hop and a skip away from the hotel is open 24 hours and just can't be beat for great food at even better value.
I had passed by Shanghai Hong Kong Noodle Shop many times but never quite got the nerve to go in since there are no english signs or menus that are visible.
Besides, it's also always full of diners, no matter what time of the day it is.

But on this fine Sunday afternoon, the many rice rolls packed and all ready to go right at the storefront were just too much for me to resist.  English signs be hanged -- I would go in and indulge!

A hungry look is understood anywhere.   I was shown to a table that I shared with three other diners. Our table was right by the front so I had a great view of the rice roll lady as she prepped and made all the rice rolls.  It was the best seat in the house!

The slightly sticky rice is spread out on a piece of plastic wrap and pickled mustard greens, pork floss and a whole cruller (bicho bicho to us Pinoys) are laid out across it.  The whole thing is then rolled up into a neat, tight and compact roll.  When you order one, it is neatly snipped right at the middle so you can eat it easily and without much spillage.  

Here's how the cross section of the rice roll looks.  The rice is slightly sticky and warm, the pork floss is dry and salty, the pickled mustard greens are soft and tart,  and the cruller adds a bit of crunch.  All the textures combine for a different mouth feel with every bite!

Aside from rice rolls, which seem to be the most popular snack, the picture menu on the wall shows other possibilities.  I spy dumplings ... could it be what it looks like it is?  

I point it out to the waitress and she says something that I think sounds like xiao long bao ... I repeat the word ... xiao long bao?  

Yes, she nods enthusiastically! 

Food once again breaks through the language barrier.

I am almost done with my rice roll when my order of soup dumplings (as xiao long bao are also known as) arrive.  There are 5 in a small bamboo steamer.  They are freshly made and look perfect.
I can't wait to try them.

I couldn't quite believe how excellent this xiao long bao was!  The skin was firm but not thick nor sticky and it didn't break when I lifted it onto my spoon.  The filling was fresh tasting but it was the broth or the soup that made the difference -- light and delicate and so flavourful!
With a drop of black vinegar and some grated ginger on top,  each perfectly sized dumpling was a divine mouthful!  I was really sad when I popped the fifth and last dumpling in my mouth and felt that last squirt of "soup".
When I got up to pay, my bill came to just HK $50!  It tasted as if it cost three times as much.  Amazing value for very good food.

Man Fai Cuttlefish Balls King, Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay

 It was my last night in Hong Kong, the meeting was over and I hurried back to Causeway Bay to sample more of the restaurants I had left untried in that short stretch of Jardines Bazaar and Yee Wo street.

At 8 pm, this well lit eatery had people coming and going who all looked well fed and satisfied. 

When in doubt, trust the queue.  A place full of diners is practically a guarantee of a good meal.

Since the sign was in Chinese, it was only later on, through research on openrice.com that I discovered that its name was Man Fai, Cuttlefish Balls King.  Self proclaimed food royalty!  That's more than good enough for me!

The last space was at a table for 4 right by the open door where 3 other solo diners were already halfway through their noodle soups.

The place is quite cramped since tables  have taken over ever inch of space.  A small kitchen with a glass window that looks out into the street is where the  action takes place.

I ordered my new favorite -- fish ball soup this time, with flat white rice noodles instead of the more common yellow egg noodles.  The broth was mild and the noodles were very chewy and springy.  The fish balls were fresh and had a firm texture.
Before I knew it,  the entire bowl just vanished in a flash!

My eyes have always been bigger than my stomach and I had to order some side dishes to go with my noodles.  This small saucer of fish dumplings is one of the best I have ever tasted.  No fishy taste at all, just firm, flavorful, fresh fish steamed and rolled in tight little bundles of goodness.

 The fish dumplings were much better than another side dish, fried vegetable cake which is really a browner and smoother take on the radish cake as we know it.  It was a bit too greasy for my taste.

 Man Fai was truly packed on this Tuesday evening.  Every available seat was taken and people were just waiting to come in.  The Cuttlefish Balls King has a new loyal subject -- I shall be back next time I am in Hong Kong!