With so many places to see and things to do in Paris and just two weeks to cram everything in, you may wonder -- why even go away for a week-end then? But I had planned a very special getaway, out of the city, on our first week-end in Paris. We would travel nearly 700 kilometres to the pilgrimage town of Lourdes, in the south of France.
The fast and direct train to Lourdes still takes a good five hours and it leaves from
Gare Montparnasse, located in the 14th arrondisement. The station, set inside a block long
concrete building is squat and ungainly and utterly charmless. It is right across
Tour Montparnasse, the modern and also charmless skyscraper that every Parisian loves to hate.
Gare Montparnasse, located in the 14th arrondisement. The station, set inside a block long
concrete building is squat and ungainly and utterly charmless. It is right across
Tour Montparnasse, the modern and also charmless skyscraper that every Parisian loves to hate.
Trains depart from tracks located in Hall 1, one escalator ride up from street level.
We took the 6:25 a.m. train and arrived well ahead of time. Gare Montparnasse serves the southwestern region of France so it was not a surprise to find a good number of early birds,
all rushing for their trains. Aside from Lourdes, trains go to Bordeaux, Brittany, Biarritz and
one can even travel all the way to the French-Spanish border where there are connections to
San Sebastian and even Lisbon.
The Lourdes week-end was definitely not a spur of the moment plan -- I had booked our train tickets months in advance so we were able to secure first class tickets that were even cheaper than second class fares.
All aboard the TGV INOUI 8571! Wide and comfortable seats with charging docks, more than
ample legroom, even wifi -- it was a long ride but a most comfortable one! Thank you SNCF!
ample legroom, even wifi -- it was a long ride but a most comfortable one! Thank you SNCF!
The SNCF high speed trains run just as fast as Japan's shinkansen -- at top speeds of more than 300 kilometres per hour. Five hours passed in a literal blur of countryside vistas and glimpses of urban stations and soon, we arrived at Gare de Lourdes. To get into town, take a taxi or shuttle van, there are many just waiting outside the station.
For our one night in Lourdes, we stayed at the Hotel Angelic Myriam along Rue du Calvaire.
Located on a higher portion of the town, it is a ten minute walk down to the Grotto.
An outdoor lift makes going to and from the hotel a whole lot easier and quicker.
An outdoor lift makes going to and from the hotel a whole lot easier and quicker.
We arrived in Lourdes at lunchtime and there was no doubt where I wanted to have my first meal ... at Asian Delices along Rue Saint Marie. This is a Filipino restaurant that has been in Lourdes for over a decade, bringing Pinoy cuisine to this quite distant part of France.
Madame Gina Lat Rousset is the chef and proprietress. You will be happily surprised to see that her restaurant is full of non-Pinoys enjoying chicken pork adobo, lumpia (vegetarian version available), pancit, sinigang, bistek, lechon kawali atbp. Gina's warm and welcoming personality makes everyone, regardless of nationality, feel right at home in her spacious and comfortable restaurant.
After lunch, time to head to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, a sprawling 51-hectare complex that includes the Basilicas, the baths, the Grotto and several churches and buildings. Here are Jay and Martina in Rosary Square in front of the Rosary Basilica.
The Grotto of Massabielle is where Our Lady appeared to St Bernadette. Compared to the grandeur of the other buildings in the Sanctuary, the Grotto is very simple and has been left untouched as much as possible. The only additions are a plain stone altar and pews.
There is always a long line of pilgrims at the Grotto but despite the crowds, it retains its air of solemnity and spirituality.
There is always a long line of pilgrims at the Grotto but despite the crowds, it retains its air of solemnity and spirituality.
We wanted to take the baths at Lourdes -- something that I had not been able to do in my previous visits. The people at the information office were not very encouraging, they said that if the lines were too long, we may not be able to get in as the sick and disabled were given priority.
But we discovered that there was a line, much shorter, specifically for children and their guardians so Martina and I were able to experience the baths after a not too long wait.
But we discovered that there was a line, much shorter, specifically for children and their guardians so Martina and I were able to experience the baths after a not too long wait.
After our time at the baths -- thanks to the many volunteers from all nationalities who
made us feel welcome and comfortable -- we visited the Rosary Basilica. We also bought
votive candles to offer in thanksgiving and for intentions of family and friends.
It had been a long and tiring day and the excitement, the long train ride and the intense summer heat only worsened Martina's sore throat -- she was down for the count at the end of the day.
But we both agreed that the highlight of the trip was our amazing bath at the holy waters of Lourdes.
Being able to do so despite the extremely long queues and the peak season crowds was a gift -- bestowed on us by Our Lady of Lourdes.
Traveling with Kids Tip #4
A religious pilgrimage may not be what an 8 year old would look forward to. But we made sure that even before we left, Martina knew about how Our Lady appeared to this young French girl -- only fourteen years old and not much older than her. If put in terms that they can relate to and understand, children will gladly embrace experiences they would normally not be interested in.
