A comfortable 5.5 hour train ride away from Paris is the pilgrimage town of Lourdes, where we
had opted to spend our first week-end out of the city. We wanted to give Martina a different experience, let her see something of the French countryside.
Our first day was spent fulfilling our religious obligations. We received a precious gift from
Our Lady of Lourdes as we were all able to take to the baths despite the long queues and thick crowds.
The next day, we wanted to see a bit more of the town of Lourdes -- away from the ubiquitous
and omnipresent souvenir shops. We had a good number of hours ahead of us before taking the afternoon train back to Paris.
had opted to spend our first week-end out of the city. We wanted to give Martina a different experience, let her see something of the French countryside.
Our first day was spent fulfilling our religious obligations. We received a precious gift from
Our Lady of Lourdes as we were all able to take to the baths despite the long queues and thick crowds.
The next day, we wanted to see a bit more of the town of Lourdes -- away from the ubiquitous
and omnipresent souvenir shops. We had a good number of hours ahead of us before taking the afternoon train back to Paris.
Hotel Angelic Myriam, where we stayed is a good 2 star choice that is less than a kilometre's walk from the Grotto. The rooms were basic but clean and comfortable. Because of its location,
the hotel is normally packed with pilgrims -- both of tour groups and families like us.
the hotel is normally packed with pilgrims -- both of tour groups and families like us.
Our very affordable room rate included breakfast. I was expecting the usual large mug of coffee with some croissants, bread and jam but we were greeted by a generous buffet -- cold cuts, assorted cheese, cereals, yoghurt and even eggs and hot sausages. Quelle surprise!
For our morning excursion, we decided to visit Pic du Jer, a 1,000 meter summit that sits among the taller spires of the Pyrenees. To reach the foot of Pic du Jer, you can take a city bus from the Grotto, it's a fifteen minute bus ride through winding mountain roads.
The athletic and adventurous types can hike or even bike up the summit but for those who are time and fitness challenged, a ride up the 100-year old funicular is the fastest and easiest way up Pic du Jer.
There are many compartments in the funicular and it was not at all crowded on this Saturday morning. Of course the first compartment is always the first to be occupied -- everyone wants that front row seat as the funicular climbs the mountain.
The way up is steep and gives you green, woody views. Enjoy the views while you can, as it takes just a few minutes to climb the 1,000 meters to the summit.
Before we reached the station, we saw these cyclists trudging up the bike path. The reward for this thigh busting climb is the exciting descent down Pic du Jer where they can hurtle down the same path they just toiled on. Pic du Jer is a popular place for mountain bikers to conquer and there are regular MTB races on the 3 kilometre trail.
The views at the top are splendid -- just as promised. Down below are towns of the Gaves Valley which include Lourdes, Tarbes and Pau. On the left are the peaks of the Pyrenees mountain range.
If you will peer very closely, there are still some snow capped peaks even during summer.
There is a bench perched very close to the edge of the cliff. I gingerly hold on and take a seat. There should be a rail but that would mar the amazing view. I dangle my feet perilously close to the brink and am thankful that it would take quite a strong gust of wind to blow me off the mountain.
Aside from the funicular ride and the astonishing views, the top of Pic du Jer boasts of caves that go back to the Ice Age. There are guided tours during the day but we were an hour early for the first tour. A statue in front represents how the cave dwellers looked like, thousands of years ago.
The funicular was less crowded on the way down and we were able to get a good view from the first compartment. We passed another carriage on the way up - at mid point the tracks split into two to allow two cars to pass each other.
On the way back to the Grotto, no buses were in sight so we decided to walk.
Since the bus ride to Pic du Jer took all of 15 minutes, we thought we would be in for quite a slog. Big surprise -- there was a direct route back which was not even 2 kilometres long.
We enjoyed walking by the clean, swift flowing Gave River which also runs through the Grotto and which gives the valley its name.
Lourdes, at the foothills of the Pyrenees is just 145 kilometres to St Jean Pied de Port, the
southern town of France that marks the start of the Camino Frances, the UNESCO World
Heritage route to Santiago de Compostela.
We saw markers along the road pointing the way for walking and even cycling pilgrims who
decide to incorporate Lourdes into their Camino.
I thought it was a gift -- a grace to see the familiar flecha or yellow arrows that are the symbol of the pilgrimage. They brought back many happy memories of the Camino which we did in 2015.
All too soon, the open riverside vistas incorporated hotels and inns -- all of which are here to handle the tens of thousands of pilgrims who visit the Grotto.
So many of them line the riverbanks. Beside that white building, fourth from the left, is the staircase that led directly to our hotel. What a charming and easy walk that was!
Before leaving for the train station we paid one last visit to Our Lady. We climbed up the ramp to
the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception at the very top before we made our way own to the Crypt and finally to the Rosary Basilica.
I first visited Lourdes with my parents more than forty years ago. I did not think I would see it again but we were able to visit in 2015, after we completed our Camino.
To be able to visit for a third time, to experience this serene and peaceful place once again is truly a blessing. I cannot think otherwise, I believe this visit is a gift from Our Lady of Lourdes.
Soon, we were back at the Gare de Lourdes to take our train back to Paris.
Many visitors come for just a quick visit, we are thankful we had a day and a half (although it felt much shorter than that!).
If there is a next time, it would be nice to stay a few days and spend more time both in the
Grotto and in exploring the delightful small towns and villages of the Gave Valley. Perhaps even venturing all the way to St Jean Pied de Port? After all it is probably just a couple of hours away by train.
The fast TGV train would take us back to Paris Gare du Nord in just over five hours --
time enough to relax and perhaps even snooze in the comfortable and spacious seats.
This short trip to Lourdes was extra special because we had Martina with us -- we were able to take her to the baths and visit and pray at the Sanctuary.
Merci beaucoup, Notre Dame de Lourdes!
Traveling with Kids Tip #5
Sitting in a train for over five hours for an 8 year old can be tiresome. Unlike in a plane, there are no personal video consoles. To pass the time and keep her from fidgeting, I made sure to point out interesting sights as we passed along -- windmills, wheat fields, quaint train stations, enchanting farm houses with lovely gardens -- sights she had not seen before. We also took a lot of videos of scenes along the way so she could show them to her parents once she got back home.
We also had a bag of snacks handy -- cookies and chips kept us from having to buy the overpriced items in the dining car.
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