Destination ... Kyoto Station

Train stations take you from one destination to the next. But in some cases,  train stations by virtue of their history, architectural design or available facilities become iconic.
They are destinations unto themselves.
Grand Central Station in New York comes to mind, so does Gare Lyon and Gare du Nord in Paris and
the ultra futuristic Gare Centrale in Strasbourg.
I have been guilty many times of not taking the time to explore a train station.
I walk in, go from one exit to the next, go down deeper into its subterranean depths without ever coming up to the ground.
But on this second visit to Kyoto, the hotel we were staying in was just across Kyoto Station so  I decided that I would take the time to explore and experience the place.

Opened in the late 1990s, Kyoto Station, all steel and glass beauty of it,  does not seem at all incongruous in genteel, tradition bound, elegant Kyoto.
It is an integral and vibrant part of the city -- with two hotels, hundreds of shops, a wide variety of restaurants and of course, numerous train and subway tracks and even bus and taxi terminals.
This huge open area, full of people,  is what you see when you come in from the central gate of the station.

The central space is anchored on both sides by two towers.  The east side features extremely tall escalators that quickly bring you to the top.

It may look like a roller coaster drop but it's really the top of the escalator that goes straight from the atrium on the 6th floor up to the 10th floor.   Down below is a large open-air space with cafes and restaurants surrounding it.

People with vertigo or who are scared of heights should avoid the long walkway that connects the east tower to the west side.  Wide glass windows open up to great city views.
Ten floors above the station floor, you walk alongside curvilinear steel frames and  highly polished glass and you feel you are suspended and walking on top of the building -- which in a way, you really are.

Upon reaching the other side of the walkway, you can see how really architecturally amazing Kyoto Station is, with all its graceful curves that are not just there for design but are functional features as well.
 If the east tower had a long and tall escalator that carried you up four straight floors,
the west tower has a very long stairway,  that reaches up to the top of the station.
There are still escalators on the side but the main feature is, dare I say it,  this "stairway to heaven"  which on this  mild  spring morning, has become a place for locals and tourists like me, to sit on the steps and just relax and enjoy the day.

There is a viewing deck on the top of the station that gives you a bird's eye view of Kyoto -- I wonder how many tourists and visitors to the city really take the time to come up all the way here and see this wonderful perspective.  I'm glad I didn't miss this.

Soon, I realize it's noontime and that I'm hungry.  Aside from the many eating places scattered all over the station, Kyoto Station has two floors devoted to the business of eating. 

On the 10th floor is Ramen Koji,  an all ramen noodle floor with several ramen restaurants.  

What ramen would you like?  You definitely will be able to find it here.  But be prepared to line up if you come during peak dining hours.

A short escalator ride up from Ramen Koji is another floor with more restaurants.
I spy an okonomiyaki place but there's a long line as well.

Katsukura, a tonkatsu chain that I frequent in Tokyo is originally from Kyoto and has a shop at the station.

There are more choices on the 11th floor -- from sushi and sashimi to bento sets, you won't go hungry.
I realize I could just stay inside Kyoto Station and eat for days on end!

After a full day of sightseeing, we come back to Kyoto station at night and find that the monumental staircase has transformed into a light and sound show.  I watch entranced as through the magic of hundreds of thousands of little lights, the steps have become a giant screen -- where visuals of pop designs and Japanese characters are projected in time with music.  What an impressive sight!

The performance ends with this heartwarming message -- Welcome to Kyoto!  Indeed, this alone should make you not miss a visit to Kyoto Station.  A surprising and not to be missed part of your itinerary.

Hotel Vista Kyoto -- "Wa" in the middle of the city

When visiting a well known tourist destination, one that has countless must-see sights, it's always better to stay in a hotel that affords easy and convenient access to transportation.

We were  in Kyoto last week for a quick holiday and  I chose  a hotel  that advertised itself as "2 minutes away from Kyoto Station.  How much more accessible and convenient can you get?

And true enough, Hotel Vista Kyoto is just across bustling and busy Kyoto Station. Where you get off the Haruka Express from the airport, where you can take the bullet train to just about anywhere in Japan, where you link up by regular train to the rest of the Kansai area.  As seen from this photo taken from the 4th floor of the station, the hotel is that gray building right across the tracks.

Our room actually looked out on the JR Kintetsu Line entrance.  You enter and exit the station via the Hachijo West gate.  So convenient to all JR lines!  Plus, a 5 minute walk through the station leads you to the subway station and the bus stops.

Aside from being so convenient to public transport, the hotel's rooms and facilities more than exceeded my expectations.  I know that hotel rooms in Japan can be compact, to say the least but our 17.5 sqm room was clean, spotless and while a little cramped, was not uncomfortable.

I specially loved the shiny,  gleamingly clean bathroom where the small space was really maximized.  A tub and a hand held shower gave you the option of either a quick bath or a long, leisurely soak.

Hotel Vista didn't scrimp on the bathroom amenities.

 The shampoo and shower gel were from giant Japanese cosmetics firm Pola, well known for their skincare and beauty products.  I really loved the scent of the Royal Jelly and Olive Oil body soap which made bath time feel so luxurious.

The hotel's lobby and front desk is on the third floor.  While quite minimalist, it is also not unstylish.  The floor to ceiling glass windows bring in the light and add to the airy and cool feel.

There are guide books and photo books on Kyoto -- unfortunately in Japanese.  There were a fair number of international guests but at the time we were there, most of the patrons were domestic tourists.

When asked about the availability of breakfast, the front desk staff informed us of a Japanese breakfast buffet available in the dining room on the 2nd floor, for only Y1,200.  It was great value and we had breakfast there every day of our stay.

Like the lobby, the dining room (which was open only for breakfast, from 6:30 a.m to 10 a.m.) was quite simple yet had clean and elegant furnishings.  There was a good high quality spread of what made breakfast truly Japanese -- grilled fish, steamed rice, an assortment or tsukemono or pickles and side dishes like tofu, vegetables, oden and even a very yummy vegetarian curry. 

The coffee was dispensed from an espresso machine and thus freshly brewed.  The dishes were changed  each day that we were there so we always looked forward to what new thing we would have for breakfast.

 Hotel Vista's breakfast buffet was such a hit!  I loved the presentation of the various dishes and tried to infuse as much art direction as I could on my breakfast tray.  A little of this, a bit of that -- something salty and something sour, something soft and something crunchy.
It was a breakfast imbued with "wa" -- harmony, peace and balance.

Perhaps "wa"  was what I experienced at Hotel Vista Kyoto. While it is right smack in the middle of the busy Kyoto station area -- and it did not come with wide open spaces,  grand rooms or even sweeping panoramic views  ...  but it had an air of welcoming hospitality, simple yet comfortable accommodations and choice amenities that make for great harmony, peace and balance for the travelers that come to stay in this surprisingly fine hotel.

Man Fai Cuttlefish Balls King, Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay

 It was my last night in Hong Kong, the meeting was over and I hurried back to Causeway Bay to sample more of the restaurants I had left untried in that short stretch of Jardines Bazaar and Yee Wo street.

At 8 pm, this well lit eatery had people coming and going who all looked well fed and satisfied. 

When in doubt, trust the queue.  A place full of diners is practically a guarantee of a good meal.

Since the sign was in Chinese, it was only later on, through research on openrice.com that I discovered that its name was Man Fai, Cuttlefish Balls King.  Self proclaimed food royalty!  That's more than good enough for me!

The last space was at a table for 4 right by the open door where 3 other solo diners were already halfway through their noodle soups.

The place is quite cramped since tables  have taken over ever inch of space.  A small kitchen with a glass window that looks out into the street is where the  action takes place.

I ordered my new favorite -- fish ball soup this time, with flat white rice noodles instead of the more common yellow egg noodles.  The broth was mild and the noodles were very chewy and springy.  The fish balls were fresh and had a firm texture.
Before I knew it,  the entire bowl just vanished in a flash!

My eyes have always been bigger than my stomach and I had to order some side dishes to go with my noodles.  This small saucer of fish dumplings is one of the best I have ever tasted.  No fishy taste at all, just firm, flavorful, fresh fish steamed and rolled in tight little bundles of goodness.

 The fish dumplings were much better than another side dish, fried vegetable cake which is really a browner and smoother take on the radish cake as we know it.  It was a bit too greasy for my taste.

 Man Fai was truly packed on this Tuesday evening.  Every available seat was taken and people were just waiting to come in.  The Cuttlefish Balls King has a new loyal subject -- I shall be back next time I am in Hong Kong!

Se Wong Yee at Causeway Bay - a lucky find in more ways than one

In the vibrant food paradise that is Hong Kong, there seems to be a restaurant for every 10 steps that you take .  Hong Kong natives are serious foodies -- witness the very engaged and opinionated members of that invaluable culinary resource,  openrice.com  

My purpose for arriving for a business meeting a day ahead was to ensure that I could walk around, discover something new,   indulge in old favorites (yes, fall off the vegetarian wagon yet again) and experiment with new tastes.  

That sounds so lofty -- but who am I kidding.  I arrived early to stuff my face silly.

My room at J Plus Hotel was not yet ready when I checked in a little before noon.  Which was just perfect, I could walk around and find a place for lunch.  

Causeway Bay has lots of alleys and side streets where good eats can be had.  

My footsteps led me to Percival Street, where I saw this very attractive red frontage.  

Big thanks to Google maps for the image you see above since in my haste and hunger, I forgot to take a photo.

The signage was in Chinese but it looked inviting and I saw the usual suspects hanging in the window, duck, goose, roast pork and char siew and dark chinese sausages. 

It looked like just the place to have my first lunch in Hong Kong!

The lunch time crowd looked like a bunch of regulars. Menu boards were in Chinese but the waiter gave me a one page english menu that showed just the basics -- the topped rice with the various roast meats.  

Later on, I would learn from my research on openrice.com that the name of the restaurant was Se Wong Yee and that its specialty was actually snake soup!  That and the aforementioned roast meats.

It's a good thing I didn't see snake soup in the english menu ... who knows what I might have done.

I'd hate to have my baser foodie self in a confrontation with my anaconda loving self!

Nothing goes better with Chinese food, specially roast meats than a cold cold Coca Cola!

The waiter was quite amused when I pointed to my order -- roast pork on rice and roast goose.
Bird flu be damned!  Vegetarianism, go hang! My baser foodie self gets the better of me every time.
What I ordered are really very common dishes but when done uncommonly well, they are better than any gourmet meal.
The roast pork meat was  lean and tender with only the thinnest bit of fat between the meat and the crackling skin. The roast goose was flavorful right done to the tiniest bone.
Did I finish this meal?  My oily lips are sealed.

The food at Se Wong Yee, heretofore untested and untried, was a lucky find.  

The other serendipitous discovery was that of my lunch mate -- since the restaurant was so full, I had to share my table for 2 with this smiling and friendly Chinese gentleman.  

He spoke english and told me that he was a 77 year old retired civil servant, a regular at the restaurant and had just come from church. 

We passed a pleasant time together, sharing our individual meals (guess who ordered more?) and sharing bits and pieces about our lives.  

It was such a nice way to spend a lunch hour.  I enjoy eating alone but having a cheerful, amiable lunch companion, albeit someone I didn't even know, seemed like a pre-destined gift from the travel gods ... and a wonderful start to my Hong Kong week-end!

One Thousand Sweets at Nice Desserts, 4 Shepherd Street Hong Kong

Dessert isn't my favorite part of the meal (I get my calorie kicks from salty savory stuff) but this last trip to Hong Kong, my foodie friend Beba promised she would bring me to her favorite after dinner place.

Did I like Chinese, more specifically, Taiwanese desserts?  As with anything new, I just opened my mouth and said "aaahh".

We did a brisk walk through the cool Hong Kong night, from Fortress Hill to the Tin Hau area. A lot of trendy cafes and bars have sprouted here making it a lively and wide awake place, specially at night. My friend walked me through the various cafes before we got to our final destination -- #4 Shepherd Street.  

At 10 pm  the place was packed with young people --  who had all spilled out from the tiny dining room, on to the sidewalk and even into the street.

Our table was right along the roadside.  I felt the brush of cars as they drove by.  If I got sideswiped,  and had to go to hospital,  I would have done so in pursuit of a noble cause -- dessert!

This specialty sweet shop has a thick clear book of the many temptations on offer. My friend ordered her usual -- Bao Bing or shaved ice.

She ordered it with azuki beans and nata de coco. So that I could taste it, she very generously shared her bowl with me.  The shaved ice was so fine, it just melted in my mouth.  I had never had shaved ice that was this good!  Good bye,  snow cones and scramble!

I dearly love sesame and couldn't make up my mind whether I would have the black or the white sesame "soup".  Why not have both, Beba asked.  And yes, why not?  So we had a cup of each.

This hot dessert is another Taiwanese and Chinese staple.  Some places serve it with mochi or rice balls but our cups came with just the "soup" -- perfectly ground sesame, not too thick nor too runny.  Just right!

As we enjoyed our desserts, I looked across the way and saw another brightly lit coffee shop. . . perhaps it can be a new discovery next time I find myself in Hong Kong!

Sun Yun Kee, Dor Ho and May Wong Fish Ball Noodles : Eating my way through Electric Road, North Point Hong kong

Walking through un-touristy streets, discovering restaurants where locals eat -- those are my ideas of a really good time.  My friend, long time Hong Kong resident and fellow foodie Beba had told me that Electric Road, which crosses Oil Street where Harbor Grand was situated, was a veritable local foodie's paradise.  She pointed me in the direction of a few notable places where one could eat as the locals did on less than HK$50.  My kind of places indeed!  

Whole day meetings would not stop me, I made my first walk about on a Monday.  During lunch break, I opted out of the (horrors!) hotel buffet and hied off to Electric Road.

Beba had warned me most of the places would not have English signs or menus but that I should walk right in and just point to what other people were eating.  I decided that since lunch break was just a little over an hour, I couldn't wander too far from the hotel and with this in mind, I made my first discovery - just 5 minutes away from Harbor Grand was Sun Yun Kee at 270 Electric Road (no English sign on the facade but I found out the name on openrice.com -- a terrific resource for eating out in Hong Kong!)

It was a surprisingly cold day so I ordered a cup of hot tea with milk, as the British and the Hong Kong folks like it.

It was lunch time so the place was full of locals and people from the nearby offices.  I sat in a table for two but was soon joined by a young man, who shyly tried to communicate with me in English.  Food being the universal language, we enjoyed our meal together.

 I ordered the fish ball and fish cake noodle soup.  The fish balls were freshly made, very springy and tasty.  A generous slice of fish cake and the ubiquitous broccoli leaves made up the rest of the dish.  The noodles were chewy and the broth was a bit on the simple side which really made the fish balls the star of the bowl!

My next foray into Electric Road came the next morning.  I woke up early and peered out the window. Hooray, there were restaurants that seemed to be open!  

Why graze through the calorific and yet boring hotel breakfast buffet when more of the eateries along this electrifyingly delicious stretch of North Point were just waiting to be experienced!

Dor Ho was open at 7 am so I walked right in.

At this early hour, Dor Ho's regulars were already having breakfast.  I saw a few having toast and eggs but most were slurping away at their bowls of congee.

 So congee it was!  For good measure, I ordered crullers -- bicho bicho to us, "stick" to the natives and the locals.  My congee thankfully came in a small bowl so I was sure I would be able to finish it.
Just plain, rather soupy congee with century egg, eaten with the hot, freshly fried crullers -- it was a local breakfast that was so much better than any hotel buffet.
I also thought that Dor Ho's cutlery cabinet built in to the table was such a genius and handy idea!

On our last night in Hong Kong, I had yet to sample the delights of May Wong Fish Ball Noodle House, a specific recommendation from my foodie friend Beba.  So, even if I had had an early dinner in Causeway Bay, I decided that a late night snack at May Wong was something I had to do before I left Hong Kong.  Thankfully, the restaurant was still open past 10 pm.

 May Wong has an english menu and I saw fish dumpling noodle soup on the menu!
Fish dumpling soup is an old favorite of mine which I used to enjoy in a small hole in the wall in Tsim Sat Tsui -- the place is now long gone from the scene but its special fish dumplings are still fresh in my memory. Would May Wong's version rekindle the taste I knew and loved?

 While I waited for my order, I saw that I was not the only one out for food at 10:30 pm.  People were still coming and going -- the eating continues till late night along Electric Road!

Here are my fish dumplings and yes -- they were just as good as the ones I used to enjoy.
Firm and fresh, no hint of any fishiness at all.  The broth was mild yet savory -- truly a great meal to end my eating affair with Electric Road!
I shall be back to discover more!