Kyoto in One Day

Just one word - why?

But if you really have just 24 hours to stay in this incredibly beautiful place, this is how I think you can best spend your day. 

I believe the best way to start your Kyoto experience is with a visit to Fushimi Inari.
Nothing quite prepares you to be impressed by the Kyoto-ness of Kyoto than this uniquely iconic  Japanese shrine.  Very easy to go to, it's just two stops away from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara line.
I suggest an early morning start, so you get there ahead of the crowds.
A giant vermillion torii greets you as you step out of the train station but this is just for openers.
Prepare to be amazed and impressed.

Fushimi Inari  Shrine is built on the wooded expanse of Mount Inari.  It is a shrine to the God of Rice and Sake and is composed of thousands of giant red torii placed closely beside each other, all the way up to the top of the mountain.

You walk up and up through these vermillion gates, sometimes the torii are low, sometimes they tower above you.  A concrete path leads you up the mountain,  lined with thousands of these seemingly unending  red structures.  Made of wood, the torii are gifts and offerings to the gods and are donated by companies, families, individuals.

If you can make it to at least two thirds up Mount Inari, you'll be rewarded by this panoramic view of Kyoto, as you peek through the lush green foliage.

 It must have taken you two hours to trek through the mountain.  Now it's time to head back down.
 As you exit the shrine, there are many small souvenir shops and eateries where you can take an early lunch.

Quail yakitori is grilled right outside the small restaurants.  You can buy a couple of sticks, sit on the outdoor benches across and relax your feet.  It is hard work after all, to huff and puff up Mount Inari.

After you've caught your breath and had some sustenance,  take the JR Nara line back to Kyoto Station and head for my  favorite place in Kyoto.

Ryoanji must be the most famous Zen temple in Japan.  It's a place of utmost serenity, tranquility and beauty and definitely a place you should not miss, specially if you have just one day in Kyoto.  

Ryoanji was originally the residence of a Japanese noble.   Converted into a Zen temple in the 1400s,  today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I dearly love this place, from the moment I first saw it -- it brought me such contentment and joy.  The grounds are just too lovely -- from the still and tree lined pond to hidden corners such as this small bridge that leads to a red torii, peeping in between the pine trees and hedges.

But what Ryoanji Temple is most known for is its dry rock garden -- perhaps the most famous rock garden in Japan.  Perfectly raked gravel is broken only by stones and some moss, that seem to be randomly set around the rectangular shaped garden.  Right by this tranquil spot is a pavilion with a wooden viewing deck, where you sit, contemplate and let the garden speak to you.

There are fifteen stones set in the garden but here is the mystery - no matter where you sit or stand to view them, you will always see only fourteen stones.  You will never be able to see all fifteen stones at once.  That is the message of Ryoanji and something that really moved me.  

On my fist visit to Ryoanji, I sat on the viewing deck for a long while, meditating on what Buddha was trying to tell me through these stones.  I listened and Buddha spoke to me.

Ryoanji brought peace and serenity to my soul, but the next destination that I recommend you go to will jolt you with its sheer powerful beauty.  Kinkakuji is a ten minute bus ride from Ryoanji but seemingly worlds away in terms of its effect on the senses.

Aptly called the Golden Pavilion because it is completely covered with gold leaf, Kinkakuji was originally an aristocrat's villa which was later converted into a Buddhist temple.  This arresting and imposing temple is a photogenic marvel.  

There it sits, surrounded by blue sky and clouds, leafy green trees, the forests of Northern Kyoto in the background -- and all these caught and reflected in the waters of the large still pond.

You shouldn't miss Kinkakuji -- it's the poster child for Kyoto. And, for photography buffs and instagram addicts -- there is no bad photo for this place. Whatever photo you take will come out postcard pretty -- and worth sharing.

Time your visit  past mid afternoon when the light is softer and is perfect for capturing the sheer gorgeousness of the Golden Pavilion.

After your eyes have gotten tired of the jaw dropping sight of Kinkakuji, wind down with another   dose of beauty and serenity.  A local bus can take you on a slow ride to Gion district where cobblestone streets and traditional wooden buildings bring you back to another era.
The extremely pure and clean Shirokawa Canal runs through the Gion area and if you're lucky, you might see a crane or an egret standing very still in the flowing water.

If you're really really lucky, you may catch a glimpse of a maiko or a geisha in training.  Gion is where most of the ochayas or tea houses are -- this is where geishas entertain their clients.  Should you see a maiko, please remember that she is a regular person, like you and me. Please be polite and respect her dignity and her privacy.  

Gion has some of the loveliest streets in Kyoto.  Dusk is the magic hour when the street lights cast a golden glow and you seem to be in another place and time.

There are many streets in the Gion District -- wander around the small alleys which are less visited by tourists.  Since it's early evening and you've had a full day of sightseeing, you will probably be tired, thirsty and a bit hungry by now.

While you can find some of Kyoto's most exclusive and expensive restaurants in Gion's streets, there are also those that are welcoming and affordable, for us ordinary mortals.

I lucked into this small soba specialty restaurant just off the crowded and touristy Hanami-koji area.

The noren or curtain hung on the door was completely in keeping with the unmistakeable atmosphere and charm of the Gion area.

And what better way to cap off your one day in Kyoto with a refreshing glass of cold beer -- not just any beer but an artisanal one, Jinya Beer is brewed and bottled in Kyoto itself.
Now,  it's time to relax, unwind and start planning for your next visit  ... and I know that next time, you'll stay more than just one day in peaceful, beautiful Kyoto.

Destination ... Kyoto Station

Train stations take you from one destination to the next. But in some cases,  train stations by virtue of their history, architectural design or available facilities become iconic.
They are destinations unto themselves.
Grand Central Station in New York comes to mind, so does Gare Lyon and Gare du Nord in Paris and
the ultra futuristic Gare Centrale in Strasbourg.
I have been guilty many times of not taking the time to explore a train station.
I walk in, go from one exit to the next, go down deeper into its subterranean depths without ever coming up to the ground.
But on this second visit to Kyoto, the hotel we were staying in was just across Kyoto Station so  I decided that I would take the time to explore and experience the place.

Opened in the late 1990s, Kyoto Station, all steel and glass beauty of it,  does not seem at all incongruous in genteel, tradition bound, elegant Kyoto.
It is an integral and vibrant part of the city -- with two hotels, hundreds of shops, a wide variety of restaurants and of course, numerous train and subway tracks and even bus and taxi terminals.
This huge open area, full of people,  is what you see when you come in from the central gate of the station.

The central space is anchored on both sides by two towers.  The east side features extremely tall escalators that quickly bring you to the top.

It may look like a roller coaster drop but it's really the top of the escalator that goes straight from the atrium on the 6th floor up to the 10th floor.   Down below is a large open-air space with cafes and restaurants surrounding it.

People with vertigo or who are scared of heights should avoid the long walkway that connects the east tower to the west side.  Wide glass windows open up to great city views.
Ten floors above the station floor, you walk alongside curvilinear steel frames and  highly polished glass and you feel you are suspended and walking on top of the building -- which in a way, you really are.

Upon reaching the other side of the walkway, you can see how really architecturally amazing Kyoto Station is, with all its graceful curves that are not just there for design but are functional features as well.
 If the east tower had a long and tall escalator that carried you up four straight floors,
the west tower has a very long stairway,  that reaches up to the top of the station.
There are still escalators on the side but the main feature is, dare I say it,  this "stairway to heaven"  which on this  mild  spring morning, has become a place for locals and tourists like me, to sit on the steps and just relax and enjoy the day.

There is a viewing deck on the top of the station that gives you a bird's eye view of Kyoto -- I wonder how many tourists and visitors to the city really take the time to come up all the way here and see this wonderful perspective.  I'm glad I didn't miss this.

Soon, I realize it's noontime and that I'm hungry.  Aside from the many eating places scattered all over the station, Kyoto Station has two floors devoted to the business of eating. 

On the 10th floor is Ramen Koji,  an all ramen noodle floor with several ramen restaurants.  

What ramen would you like?  You definitely will be able to find it here.  But be prepared to line up if you come during peak dining hours.

A short escalator ride up from Ramen Koji is another floor with more restaurants.
I spy an okonomiyaki place but there's a long line as well.

Katsukura, a tonkatsu chain that I frequent in Tokyo is originally from Kyoto and has a shop at the station.

There are more choices on the 11th floor -- from sushi and sashimi to bento sets, you won't go hungry.
I realize I could just stay inside Kyoto Station and eat for days on end!

After a full day of sightseeing, we come back to Kyoto station at night and find that the monumental staircase has transformed into a light and sound show.  I watch entranced as through the magic of hundreds of thousands of little lights, the steps have become a giant screen -- where visuals of pop designs and Japanese characters are projected in time with music.  What an impressive sight!

The performance ends with this heartwarming message -- Welcome to Kyoto!  Indeed, this alone should make you not miss a visit to Kyoto Station.  A surprising and not to be missed part of your itinerary.

Hotel Vista Kyoto -- "Wa" in the middle of the city

When visiting a well known tourist destination, one that has countless must-see sights, it's always better to stay in a hotel that affords easy and convenient access to transportation.

We were  in Kyoto last week for a quick holiday and  I chose  a hotel  that advertised itself as "2 minutes away from Kyoto Station.  How much more accessible and convenient can you get?

And true enough, Hotel Vista Kyoto is just across bustling and busy Kyoto Station. Where you get off the Haruka Express from the airport, where you can take the bullet train to just about anywhere in Japan, where you link up by regular train to the rest of the Kansai area.  As seen from this photo taken from the 4th floor of the station, the hotel is that gray building right across the tracks.

Our room actually looked out on the JR Kintetsu Line entrance.  You enter and exit the station via the Hachijo West gate.  So convenient to all JR lines!  Plus, a 5 minute walk through the station leads you to the subway station and the bus stops.

Aside from being so convenient to public transport, the hotel's rooms and facilities more than exceeded my expectations.  I know that hotel rooms in Japan can be compact, to say the least but our 17.5 sqm room was clean, spotless and while a little cramped, was not uncomfortable.

I specially loved the shiny,  gleamingly clean bathroom where the small space was really maximized.  A tub and a hand held shower gave you the option of either a quick bath or a long, leisurely soak.

Hotel Vista didn't scrimp on the bathroom amenities.

 The shampoo and shower gel were from giant Japanese cosmetics firm Pola, well known for their skincare and beauty products.  I really loved the scent of the Royal Jelly and Olive Oil body soap which made bath time feel so luxurious.

The hotel's lobby and front desk is on the third floor.  While quite minimalist, it is also not unstylish.  The floor to ceiling glass windows bring in the light and add to the airy and cool feel.

There are guide books and photo books on Kyoto -- unfortunately in Japanese.  There were a fair number of international guests but at the time we were there, most of the patrons were domestic tourists.

When asked about the availability of breakfast, the front desk staff informed us of a Japanese breakfast buffet available in the dining room on the 2nd floor, for only Y1,200.  It was great value and we had breakfast there every day of our stay.

Like the lobby, the dining room (which was open only for breakfast, from 6:30 a.m to 10 a.m.) was quite simple yet had clean and elegant furnishings.  There was a good high quality spread of what made breakfast truly Japanese -- grilled fish, steamed rice, an assortment or tsukemono or pickles and side dishes like tofu, vegetables, oden and even a very yummy vegetarian curry. 

The coffee was dispensed from an espresso machine and thus freshly brewed.  The dishes were changed  each day that we were there so we always looked forward to what new thing we would have for breakfast.

 Hotel Vista's breakfast buffet was such a hit!  I loved the presentation of the various dishes and tried to infuse as much art direction as I could on my breakfast tray.  A little of this, a bit of that -- something salty and something sour, something soft and something crunchy.
It was a breakfast imbued with "wa" -- harmony, peace and balance.

Perhaps "wa"  was what I experienced at Hotel Vista Kyoto. While it is right smack in the middle of the busy Kyoto station area -- and it did not come with wide open spaces,  grand rooms or even sweeping panoramic views  ...  but it had an air of welcoming hospitality, simple yet comfortable accommodations and choice amenities that make for great harmony, peace and balance for the travelers that come to stay in this surprisingly fine hotel.

Man Fai Cuttlefish Balls King, Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay

 It was my last night in Hong Kong, the meeting was over and I hurried back to Causeway Bay to sample more of the restaurants I had left untried in that short stretch of Jardines Bazaar and Yee Wo street.

At 8 pm, this well lit eatery had people coming and going who all looked well fed and satisfied. 

When in doubt, trust the queue.  A place full of diners is practically a guarantee of a good meal.

Since the sign was in Chinese, it was only later on, through research on openrice.com that I discovered that its name was Man Fai, Cuttlefish Balls King.  Self proclaimed food royalty!  That's more than good enough for me!

The last space was at a table for 4 right by the open door where 3 other solo diners were already halfway through their noodle soups.

The place is quite cramped since tables  have taken over ever inch of space.  A small kitchen with a glass window that looks out into the street is where the  action takes place.

I ordered my new favorite -- fish ball soup this time, with flat white rice noodles instead of the more common yellow egg noodles.  The broth was mild and the noodles were very chewy and springy.  The fish balls were fresh and had a firm texture.
Before I knew it,  the entire bowl just vanished in a flash!

My eyes have always been bigger than my stomach and I had to order some side dishes to go with my noodles.  This small saucer of fish dumplings is one of the best I have ever tasted.  No fishy taste at all, just firm, flavorful, fresh fish steamed and rolled in tight little bundles of goodness.

 The fish dumplings were much better than another side dish, fried vegetable cake which is really a browner and smoother take on the radish cake as we know it.  It was a bit too greasy for my taste.

 Man Fai was truly packed on this Tuesday evening.  Every available seat was taken and people were just waiting to come in.  The Cuttlefish Balls King has a new loyal subject -- I shall be back next time I am in Hong Kong!

Se Wong Yee at Causeway Bay - a lucky find in more ways than one

In the vibrant food paradise that is Hong Kong, there seems to be a restaurant for every 10 steps that you take .  Hong Kong natives are serious foodies -- witness the very engaged and opinionated members of that invaluable culinary resource,  openrice.com  

My purpose for arriving for a business meeting a day ahead was to ensure that I could walk around, discover something new,   indulge in old favorites (yes, fall off the vegetarian wagon yet again) and experiment with new tastes.  

That sounds so lofty -- but who am I kidding.  I arrived early to stuff my face silly.

My room at J Plus Hotel was not yet ready when I checked in a little before noon.  Which was just perfect, I could walk around and find a place for lunch.  

Causeway Bay has lots of alleys and side streets where good eats can be had.  

My footsteps led me to Percival Street, where I saw this very attractive red frontage.  

Big thanks to Google maps for the image you see above since in my haste and hunger, I forgot to take a photo.

The signage was in Chinese but it looked inviting and I saw the usual suspects hanging in the window, duck, goose, roast pork and char siew and dark chinese sausages. 

It looked like just the place to have my first lunch in Hong Kong!

The lunch time crowd looked like a bunch of regulars. Menu boards were in Chinese but the waiter gave me a one page english menu that showed just the basics -- the topped rice with the various roast meats.  

Later on, I would learn from my research on openrice.com that the name of the restaurant was Se Wong Yee and that its specialty was actually snake soup!  That and the aforementioned roast meats.

It's a good thing I didn't see snake soup in the english menu ... who knows what I might have done.

I'd hate to have my baser foodie self in a confrontation with my anaconda loving self!

Nothing goes better with Chinese food, specially roast meats than a cold cold Coca Cola!

The waiter was quite amused when I pointed to my order -- roast pork on rice and roast goose.
Bird flu be damned!  Vegetarianism, go hang! My baser foodie self gets the better of me every time.
What I ordered are really very common dishes but when done uncommonly well, they are better than any gourmet meal.
The roast pork meat was  lean and tender with only the thinnest bit of fat between the meat and the crackling skin. The roast goose was flavorful right done to the tiniest bone.
Did I finish this meal?  My oily lips are sealed.

The food at Se Wong Yee, heretofore untested and untried, was a lucky find.  

The other serendipitous discovery was that of my lunch mate -- since the restaurant was so full, I had to share my table for 2 with this smiling and friendly Chinese gentleman.  

He spoke english and told me that he was a 77 year old retired civil servant, a regular at the restaurant and had just come from church. 

We passed a pleasant time together, sharing our individual meals (guess who ordered more?) and sharing bits and pieces about our lives.  

It was such a nice way to spend a lunch hour.  I enjoy eating alone but having a cheerful, amiable lunch companion, albeit someone I didn't even know, seemed like a pre-destined gift from the travel gods ... and a wonderful start to my Hong Kong week-end!

One Thousand Sweets at Nice Desserts, 4 Shepherd Street Hong Kong

Dessert isn't my favorite part of the meal (I get my calorie kicks from salty savory stuff) but this last trip to Hong Kong, my foodie friend Beba promised she would bring me to her favorite after dinner place.

Did I like Chinese, more specifically, Taiwanese desserts?  As with anything new, I just opened my mouth and said "aaahh".

We did a brisk walk through the cool Hong Kong night, from Fortress Hill to the Tin Hau area. A lot of trendy cafes and bars have sprouted here making it a lively and wide awake place, specially at night. My friend walked me through the various cafes before we got to our final destination -- #4 Shepherd Street.  

At 10 pm  the place was packed with young people --  who had all spilled out from the tiny dining room, on to the sidewalk and even into the street.

Our table was right along the roadside.  I felt the brush of cars as they drove by.  If I got sideswiped,  and had to go to hospital,  I would have done so in pursuit of a noble cause -- dessert!

This specialty sweet shop has a thick clear book of the many temptations on offer. My friend ordered her usual -- Bao Bing or shaved ice.

She ordered it with azuki beans and nata de coco. So that I could taste it, she very generously shared her bowl with me.  The shaved ice was so fine, it just melted in my mouth.  I had never had shaved ice that was this good!  Good bye,  snow cones and scramble!

I dearly love sesame and couldn't make up my mind whether I would have the black or the white sesame "soup".  Why not have both, Beba asked.  And yes, why not?  So we had a cup of each.

This hot dessert is another Taiwanese and Chinese staple.  Some places serve it with mochi or rice balls but our cups came with just the "soup" -- perfectly ground sesame, not too thick nor too runny.  Just right!

As we enjoyed our desserts, I looked across the way and saw another brightly lit coffee shop. . . perhaps it can be a new discovery next time I find myself in Hong Kong!