Of Bishops and Buddhists -- our uncommon Christmas Day in Kyoto

Christmas Day in Kyoto is definitely unlike Christmas day in the Philippines.  

It is a regular working day so people really go about their daily business.  

While the trappings of Christmas may be present -- lights, Christmas trees, Santa Claus and gifts -- 

however,  that's all there is to it.  For majority of the Japanese, it is a commercial and not a religious event.

Since this was our second Christmas Day in Kyoto we knew enough as to where we could properly celebrate the occasion. Just as we did last year, we hied off to busy, commercial Kawaramachidori where the Cathedral of Saint Francis Xavier is located.  The Cathedral is built along simple, modern lines with beautiful stained glass windows.  The presence of a small belen or creche at the foot of the altar made me feel a little less homesick.

Good friend and Kyoto resident Meiko san attended mass with us, as she did last year.  As the mass was said in Japanese, she translated portions of the Bishop's homily during the mass, all in a quiet whisper of course.

The first time we heard Christmas mass at the Cathedral, Bishop Paul Otsuka of the Diocese of Kyoto was the main celebrant.  This year,  he celebrated mass again and afterwards mingled with the parishioners.  He was very amiable and glad to meet visitors like us -- Jay had the nerve (I was too shy) to ask the Bishop to pose for a souvenir photo.

From mass, we headed to Ginkakuji,  a Zen Temple in the eastern hills of Higashiyama.  This is a Buddhist temple that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and is famous for one of its buildings, the Silver Pavilion.

This was the week before New Year so preparations were well underway to spruce up the temple grounds.  It was quite fascinating to watch these men fixing the volcano shaped cone or the "moon viewing platform" from where it is said the shogun used to sit and watch the full moon.
This sand cone is set in the middle of the dry sand garden known as the "Silver Sea of Sand".
Zen temples are famous for their beautiful dry rock or sand gardens and Ginkakuji has quite a splendid one.

I much prefer  The Silver Pavilion or Ginkakuji over its counterpart, the Golden Pavilion or Kinkakuji.  I love the subdued and quiet elegance of the former over the flashy showiness of the latter. Ginkakuji is wabi sabi to its core.

It was drizzling intermittently but this didn't stop us from taking a walk through the Philosopher's Path.   Cold winter weather notwithstanding,  Martina still had an appetite for an ice cream cone.

Meiko san had a Christmas treat for us -- she brought us to a temple a short walk away.
This is the entrance to Honen-in, built by the Buddhist priest Honen who also established
the Jodo-shu sect of Buddhism in the 12th century.   Wide and easy stone steps make for a comfortable and pleasing approach to the Somon or the first gate to the temple.

Honen-in is a bit off the tourist beaten track.  The afternoon we visited, we were the only ones there.  For me, this seclusion added much to its appeal.  A stone path leads to the second gate, the Sanmon.
A burst of yellow leaves, remnants of what must have been spectacular autumn foliage is the only "distraction" to this serene setting.

To the left of the thatched roof Sanmon Gate is this old stone marker.  Meiko san said it states that no alcohol, meat or garlic are allowed inside the temple grounds.  I felt a bit guilty for being a  
beer-guzzling,  non- vegetarian visitor.

These two rectangular mounds of sand are what you first see when you step through the 

Sanmon Gate.  These symbolise water and as you pass through them, you are purified, both in body and mind.  There are patterns on top of the sand mounds which are changed according to the season. 

The Hondo or Main Hall was closed and is open to the public only a few times a year, during the spring and autumn seasons.

 I found it hard to tear myself away from the tranquility of Honen-in.  Its calm and quiet air seemed ideal for contemplation and meditation.  While there was not much to see in terms of grand buildings or structures,  experiencing the stillness of the place brought a feeling of peace to my soul.

From Honen-in we walked the back streets of the Philosopher's Path.   Meiko san said this was a very premier residential area of Kyoto.  

Back on the Philosopher's Path we came upon this community of cats.   While I have walked through this way before,  I had never noticed any cats although Meiko san said this was a "highlight" of this stretch of the walk. While these may be stray cats, they seemed to well taken cared of by the residents -- as evidenced by this tabby all wrapped up in a blanket to ward off the December chill.  

There are quite of number of these Kyoto kittens -- here they are huddled in a cart, taking their afternoon nap.

I didn't worry at all about these felines --  even if they could be called "homeless",  they were all quite fat and definitely well fed.

We had finally come to the end of our  walk.   From Ginkakuji, where we started, it had been an almost two kilometre chilly but lovely stroll.  From a Bishop to a Buddhist temple, it was an untraditional but entirely appropriate way to celebrate Christmas Day in Kyoto.

Kobe Gavly in Kyoto Station -- Kobe Beef in Burger Form

After my encounter with a Wagyu A5 burger at Blacows in Tokyo last November, I wanted to see if Kyoto had a burger that could compete at the same level.  I took my chances with the web -- googling "best burger in Kyoto" and one of the names that came up was Kobe Gavly.

It was very convenient that Kobe Gavly was situated on the 10th floor of Kyoto Station.
Although I thought it somewhat strange that it was right in the middle of  Ramen Koji or Ramen Street.
I could eat ramen all day, every day but perhaps some people need a break now and then.
Most specially,  western tourists who probably need a burger fix after days and days of Japanese food.

According to its colourful poster, Kobe Gavly burgers are made with Kobe Beef and other highly selected meat from black cattle.  Now Kobe Beef is one of the best and most expensive beef in Japan so perhaps it can measure up to Blacows' Wagyu Grade A5.

The basic,  regular sized single patty burger costs Y800, slightly cheaper than Blacows' which costs Y1000.  You can bump this up to a double patty sandwich by paying twice that amount.
The most expensive item on the menu is not a burger --  the 100% Kobe Beef steak sandwich
is Y2040.
For non-beef eaters, there is a chicken burger and even a shrimp burger.

Since Kobe Gavly is housed in a small kiosk, I was sure the burgers were not prepared in the same manner as Blacows'.
They would not be hand ground upon each order but would have been pre-formed and pre-frozen.
In addition to our burgers, we ordered mushroom soup and potato wedges.
The food presentation was quite nice -- the burgers came wrapped in waxed paper holders and everything was neatly placed in a woven basket.
The Gavly burger came garnished with 10 kinds of fresh vegetables and at first glance, it looked like a  salad had sprouted in the bun.
Where's the (Kobe) beef?

Upon closer inspection, there was indeed a beef patty lurking underneath all that greenery.  The patty was rather round, like a big meatball and quite smaller than the soft sesame seed studded bun.

I finally got  a bite of Kobe beef, albeit in burger form.  I may be a lapsed vegetarian but the  10 vegetables distracted me from the "meat" of the matter, pardon the pun.
How did it measure up to Blacows?  The Gavly burger was juicy but somehow, not as mouthwatering and flavourful as Blacows.
I was looking for that rich umami kick that Blacows delivered with every beefy bite.
That settles it!
Best burger in Tokyo beats Best Burger in Kyoto!

Enchanted by the Beauty of Byodo-in Temple in Uji, Kyoto

Rome was not built in a day as they say so I knew I would not be able to accomplish my goal of seeing all of Kyoto's 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites on this trip. But I knew I could add a few more to what I had already seen.

It was nearly 4 in the afternoon when we boarded the JR Nara Rapid Express from Kyoto Station which would take us to Uji, a 15 minute train ride away.  

Our destination was Byodo-in Temple located in this suburb of Kyoto.  As it was winter, closing hours were earlier than usual and we wanted to get there before the gates closed.

The temple is a good ten minute brisk walk from JR Uji Station.  As we waited to cross the intersection, I was surprised to see a familiar scene from The Tale of Genji, placed on top of an arch.  

Later, I learned that the last ten chapters of this famous novel were set in Uji.

We met tourists walking back from Byodo-in.  The road leading to the temple is lined with small cafes, restaurants and souvenir stores but there was no time to stop and browse.

Well, I did stop for a few seconds to snap this photo of a stone cat in front of a shop's door.

This is the Phoenix Hall or Amida-do, the most distinctive structure in Byodo-in, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.   Amida-do stands on an island in the middle of Aji-Ike pond.
It is one of the last surviving examples of architecture dating back to the Heian period of the tenth century.  The temple garden is also acclaimed as one of the best examples of gardens from this period.
The central hall of Amida-do is flanked by two corridors, one on each side.  It is said that the structure resembles a bird with its wings outstretched in flight.
The statue of the Amida Buddha or the Amida-Nyorai inside the central hall is surrounded by smaller bodhisattvas.  Faith in the Amida Buddha centres on the knowledge  that he comes at death to escort our souls to heaven.  That is a beautiful and comforting thought.
Can you see the tiny gold light in the middle of the centre pavilion?
At sunrise and at sunset, natural light strikes the face of the Amida Buddha, creating a transcendent, ethereal glow.  

Byodo-in Temple, aside from being a UNESCO World Heritage site is also commemorated by the image of the Phoenix Hall on the Japanese ten yen coin.

The Amida-do is a glorious sight -- this reflection of the hall, along with trees, clouds and blue sky, on the still, green waters of the Aji-Ike pond had me rooted to this spot.

Another noteworthy sight  is this replica of the temple bell.  The original is kept in the temple museum.  The bell is a National Treasure and considered as one of the top three bells in Japan.
This replica stands in a red pavilion atop a small rise, overlooking the rest of the grounds.
I briefly wonder if the original bell feels cooped up, hidden inside the museum?

From the bell tower I look out onto the mountains surrounding the temple.  It is late afternoon and the setting sun creates a beautiful backdrop.

A thoroughly modern underground museum houses the rich and extensive treasures of Byodo-in.  

Because it is built into a small hill, it is effectively camouflaged and hidden --  its sleek concrete design does not clash with the traditional architecture of the Amida-do.  

Remnants of red maple leaves cling to nearly bare branches.  The cold wind is picking up and it's time to head back to Kyoto.  Besides, the temple is about to close.

Amida-do is really beautiful no matter which side you view it from.  This is a photo I took of the back of the structure, as I came down from the bell tower.

I am reminded of  Kinkakuji --  Kyoto's temple acclaimed for its striking beauty.  

But I feel that Kinkakuji  is impressive only when seen from a distance, from a particular spot across its pond.   As you get closer and when you turn back to look at it, it becomes just another brightly painted structure.  

Amida-do to my mind is awe-inspiring,  viewed from any and all angles.

As I walk around the Amida-do, I can see how well maintained and lovingly preserved it is.
It seems unparalleled in its beauty ...  I cannot bear to tear my eyes away.

One last farewell look as we leave Byodo-in.  Thank you Buddha, this visit was indeed a gift.

Christmas Eve at the Kamo Shrines of Kamigamo and Shimogamo in Kyoto

The day before Christmas dawned bright and cold in Kyoto. We bundled ourselves up and headed off to go shrine hopping.

From Kyoto Station, we took bus number 9  and got off about 200 meters from Kamigamo-jinja.
We crossed over this narrow and rather shallow portion of the Kamogawa or the Kamo River.
Kamigamo means "upper Kamo" and thus, the shrine is located upstream.

There are literally thousands of shrines and temples in Kyoto -- it would take me years to visit them all.    But, Kamigamo-jinja is special because it is one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Kyoto and is even older than the city.
Along with its twin shrine, the Shimogamo-jinja, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There are 17 World Heritage Sites in Kyoto -- I think visiting all 17 is a realistic goal for me to accomplish.

The pathway leading to the shrine or the sando struck me as quite unusual as it was bordered on each side by a wide expanse of lawn.  Because it was winter, the grass was brown which actually added to the  perception of vastness of space.

New Year is a time when the Japanese visit the temples and shrines.  Kamigamo-jinja was getting spruced up for this event.

The path led us this shrine building called the Hoso-dono, noted for the twin cones of perfectly raked sand.   These cones are used in purification rituals in the shrine.

At the side of the Hoso-Dono is the clear Omonoi stream -  flowing silently and serenely.
The building beside it is where other shrine rituals take place.

This tower gate or ro-mon leads to the Honden or the Main Hall of the shrine.
A small red bridge takes one across the shallow waters of the Omonoi.
The deity Kamo-Wake-Ikazuchi-no-kami or the god of Thunder is enshrined in Kamigamo-jinja.  Thankfully, it is a sunny day and he does not make his presence felt.

A wooden  horse rearing on its hind legs stands outside the Ro-mon.  It is said that the tradition of horse racing started at this shrine and thus the horse is a sort of mascot for Kamigamo-jinja.
Once or twice a month, there is even a ceremonial white horse (a real live one) that is brought to the shrine.

From Kamigamo-jinja, the logical next destination is its "partner" or other half -- Shimogamo-jinja.  The bus stop has old wooden benches to sit on while waiting for your ride.

Shimogamo-jinja or "lower Kamo" is about 3 kilometres south of Kamigamo-jinja and is older by a hundred years.   The same kami or deity is enshrined at Shimogamo-jinja.   It is located within Kyoto's oldest forest -- the Tadasu-no-mori or "forest of truth".  

A bright red torii stands guard at the entrance to one of the shrine buildings.  

There is a mossy stream that flows under the bridge -- the image of rocks, moss, still water and red bridge create another wabi sabi impression for me -- one of impermanent, imperfect beauty.

This massive tower gate leads to the shrine buildings and to the Tadasu-no-mori forest.

A temizuya is located right past the tower gate.  It is my first time to see one made of bamboo and leaves.   The water for cleansing flows out of bamboo spouts.  It's very green and natural -- perfect for the forest environment surrounding the shrine.

Butagumi Dining -- Top End Tonkatsu in Roppongi

While I have found the best tonkatsu (for me, that is)  in Tokyo (that would be Akashi in Shimbashi where then Dentsu President Takashima san took me to lunch), my search for other memorable tonkatsu experiences continues.  

On this last trip,  I googled "best tonkatsu in Tokyo" and came up with quite a few recommendations.  

The one that I chose to visit was Butagumi Dining.  Butagumi's original store is in Nishi Azabu but it's not as convenient as this small branch in the basement of the North Tower of Roppongi Hills.
Butagumi Dining is easy to find and is even near the subway exit.

The place is not so big -- there is counter that seats 12  and a few booths in the back.
We chose to sit at the counter so we could see how the pork cutlets are made.

Tonkatsu lovers favor Butagumi because of its unique promise  -- they serve premium quality pork from all over Japan, and even Iberico pork from Spain.  If this were beef, you can say that Butagumi's pork is akin to wagyu Grade A5.

In the main store, you can choose your tonkatsu from numerous varieties from the best pork producing areas in the country.  

However, here at Butagumi Dining, they only have the "standard brand pork" (which is still of top quality) and one premium "brand" that is served only at dinnertime  -- to my mind, that's the "pig du jour".

Today's special is "Tokyo-X" and the card says that the pig came from Tokyo Prefecture.  

Was it raised somewhere in the backyards of Shinjuku?  Or maybe Shimbashi?  

Did it live in a pen or in an apartment?  I guess I'll  never know. 

The menu card also states that this pork is "SO GRATE!".   That settled it!

I ordered  the "pig du jour" ... Tokyo-X.    I was in hog heaven to see that only rosu or pork loin is offered.   This is my preferred cut for tonkatsu as it incorporates juicy, lovely, umami laden fat along with lean meat.   Oink, oink!

We had a ring side seat to the action in the open kitchen. The chef was so near me, I could have leaned over the counter and stolen a cutlet from his tray.
It was like being in the audience of a cooking show,  I watched as he took each cutlet --  floured it, dipped it in the egg wash then dredged it through the bread crumbs.  He did everything himself, including keeping an eye on the deep fryer and making sure that each cutlet came out a uniform golden brown --  perfectly cooked to the last second.
This man is a master chef in my book!

All the aroma of frying pork is enough to turn one to drink!  Yebisu Beer  in the house!

The chef fried up each order one by one, no crowding in the deep fryer so while waiting,  I read up on how to properly eat tonkatsu.  Aside from the usual sauce, Butagumi recommends the use of their special seasoned salt -- and yes, I tried it and it greatly enhanced the flavour of the pork.

This is Butagumi Dining's  hirekatsu or fillet tonkatsu.   It looks like a small golden log of pork goodness.   However,  I never order hire because I find the lean meat too ordinary -- not worth the cholesterol and calories at all!

And here at last is my "pig du jour".  Butagumi's Tokyo - X rosukatsu.
How did this "premium brand pork" taste -- could I actually tell the difference between this and a standard brand pig?
Well, it was certainly juicy and very tasty (and yes,  I ate all the fat)  but it also had just the slightest hint of "pig essence" which was not at all unpleasant.  This "essence" added to its distinctively rich taste.
I'm tempted to go to the original Butagumi to try how other premium pork varieties taste.

But that's for another day -- for tonight, Butagumi Dining was a great tonkatsu find.
Even in this small branch in the basement of Roppongi Hills,  the superior quality of their premium tonkatsu shone through.