Travels with Martina Day 10 Part 2 : Strolling along the Champs Elysee

It is practically unforgivable,  at least in my eyes (and that of Martina's certainly) that this series of posts about her European vacation have been left unfinished these past four years.  Let me try and make amends and see how far I can go this time.  It's 2023, surely our happy memories of that summer of 2019 are worth revisiting and writing about.

After enjoying morning at the Van Gogh show at the Atelier et Lumiere, we decided to tick one more Paris must-see off Martina's list by taking her to see the Arc de Triomphe.  

This corner of the Champs Elysee where you can find an exit of the Charles de Gaulle metro station is always crowded.  Having emerged from the metro, we did not feel like going back underground again to cross the avenue to get to the Arc.  A stroll along the boulevard, while keeping sight of the monument seemed like a more reasonable plan .

I had never been to Paris at the height of tourist season -- our previous visits had always been in the winter when the crowds were sparser.  It was fun to see so many people, everyone seemed to be taking photos and selfies, Martina had to get into the act. 

I asked Martina to pose in front of the Louis Vuitton main store -- who knows, maybe one of these days she will be back to get her very own LV purse.  In the meantime, her own shoulder bag has a certain 

je ne sais quoi, don't you think?

The  iconic and classic brasserie, Le Fouquet's is a most popular meeting place along the boulevard.

You can't miss its bright red awning.  Today the outdoor tables are all full and this being Paris  you can sit and order an espresso and people watch for an hour or two without being shooed away.

Quelle surprise! If an outdoor table at Le Fouquet's is not possible, there is a small kiosk a few steps away, selling Fouquet's crepes et glaces.  The perfect treat on a summer afternoon!  

A vacant wooden bench magically materialized!  Now we could enjoy our cones and crepes and take a much welcome break.

An eight year old can only take so much of strolling and window shopping, even if it is along the most iconic shopping avenue in the world.  After a few hours, it was probably time to call it a day and head back to the apartment. 

Just before we disappeared underground again, to take yet another metro ride, Martina pointed out this sign to me ... ah yes, on aime Paris!

Traveling with Kids Tip #11

Kids don't really enjoy shopping, specially "adult" shopping.   The Champs Elysee may be the most famous shopping destination in the world but try explaining that to an eight year old!  Buy the child a  special treat before you shop and you can make the time more pleasant  she waits while you get your own shopping done.  And please, don't shop till the child drops. 

Travels with Martina Day 10 Part 1 - Starry starry night at Atelier des Lumieres

Some of the world's best and most famous pieces of art can be found in Paris -- the museums are reason enough to visit the city.  Unfortunately, they have also become so crowded during peak tourist season as we experienced in our visit to the Louvre.  Today I had  another art themed encounter planned, maybe it would erase the disappointment of the Louvre visit from Martina's mind. 

From our metro "base" of Filles du Calvaire on Metro Line 8, it was a few blocks walk to the Republique station to catch Line 3 which brought us quickly to our designated stop -- Rue Saint-Maur.  

Thank goodness for an escalator, it certainly saved us quite a climb up the stairs!

Rue Saint-Maur is in the 11th arr. Our apartment in Rue de Turenne in the haut Marais (upper Marais) is in the 4th arr but because of the circular way the arrondissements of Paris are laid out, the 4th and the 11th are just beside each other. 

This map gives you an idea of how the city has been planned.   As you can see, we really could have just walked all the way from 4th arr to the 11th.  It would probably have taken us 20 minutes. 

Today's excursion was to Atelier des Lumieres.  Situated in an old foundry dating back to 1835, it has been converted into a digital art center. From a space dedicated to producing cast iron parts for the French navy and railway, the space now houses a popular destination -- both for locals and tourists alike. 

Atelier des Lumieres mounts digital shows projecting famous works of art on its huge and cavernous interiors.  

This season's main show "Starry Night" is all about Vincent Van Gogh -- his rich and bold style makes the perfect leap to the digital world.  Projected on immense space, the colors seem more vivid, the strokes  more masterful.

As a former foundry, the interior of Atelier des Lumieres is huge -- the space has been completely hollowed out -- no pillars or posts to mar the mesmerizing show of art that is digitally projected onto every available inch of space.  You are absorbed into a world that Van Gogh painted.

The images are not static -- they zoom in and out, slide and glide all around you.  We are drenched by these  vivid blues  -- this must have been how they looked right after Van Gogh put down his brush.

Even the somber browns and grays of this glimpse into daily rural life is transformed by the sheer monumental size as it is digitally projected, ceiling to floor.  You can almost feel the warmth of the fire and smell the aroma of food.

The forty minute show includes the work of Van Gogh from 1853 to just before he died in 1890.

His last days spent in the small town of Auvers sur Oise was a prolific time -- he painted over 70 paintings in less than three months. 

Martina was completely captivated by the show.  While we walked around early on, the experience can be overwhelming. The best thing to do is to claim a space amidst the crowd,  sit and allow yourself to be transported into a world as Van Gogh saw it and as he painted it.   

And yes, for a brief while, even believe that you are a part of the painting. 

"Dreamed Japan - images of a floating world" is the brief 10 minute show that immediately follows 

Starry Night.  Van Gogh himself was enchanted by "japonisme" and often said that he derived much inspiration from Japanese art.  

Japanophiles will love this show -- and will recognize Hokusai's giant waves.

Japan's iconic symbols have the audience enraptured -- fierce samurai, kimono clad geisha,  showers of sakura -- this is  Japan that people dream about.

Cats turn into people, people turn into yokai  -- spirits that inhabit the dark forests of Japanese folklore.

A sensu fan unfolds and a shower of cherry blossoms fills the venue.  Oh so magical!  I found myself suddenly missing Kyoto ...

Hundreds of thousands of paper lanterns against a midnight blue sky signalled the end of the show.

They floated everywhere, enveloping us, leaving us  dazed by the spellbinding beauty of both shows.

When you come to Paris, this is a place you must not miss.  It's very easy to reserve and book online. 

It's not expensive -- a full priced ticket cost 15 euros per person.

Ateliere des Lumieres through its Art En Immersion program reaches out to children with disabilities, illnesses or are socially excluded, providing an experience that can get them in touch with their creativity.  It's nice to know that the price of your admission goes in part to a worthy cause such as this. 

Alors, another boutique de souvenirs!  The gift shop is well stocked with art books, knick knacks and all sorts of unique, creative and irresistible things.  Martina managed to find this book on paintings transformed into anime art.  It was the perfect finale to this amazing, art filled day.

Traveling with Kids, Tip #10

The trick to getting the child to enjoy (and accept)  a "learning and educational experience" is to take it out of the box. The Atelier des Lumieres that showcased the genius of Vincent Van Gogh, translated into an immersive and interactive platform greatly appealed to Martina -- very much a child of the digital age. 

Picking Up where I left Off

 

It's amazing that I have not written anything since July 2020.  A full half year (and more) has gone by and I have just about abandoned this blog.  Can I blame it all to COVID, the lockdown, anxiety, stress ... but looking back, I didn't do much writing in 2019 either -- 9 posts in a year that was memorable and eventful!  Nine posts was all I came up with.  I hang my head in shame and remorse.

The grass and weeds have grown under my feet and inside my brain.  I need to relentlessly attack it with a

grass cutter!  Perhaps my new MAC Pro is the weapon to use. I must get back to writing again and hopefully these short paragraphs will be the spark I need.

I also owe Martina, my granddaughter -- the complete serialization of her trip to Europe with us in 2019.  As she has been begging (and yes, bugging) me to sit down and work on this blog again, I shall finally do so.  Good luck to me!  Perhaps I should set a deadline for myself so that I stick to the plan --  check back with me in 30 days and I resolve to finish the European Episodes by then!

D-Day March 2, 2021!

Travels With Martina Day 9 - Lost in the Louvre

The Louvre in Paris is the grande dame of all museums -- perhaps the most famous and well known of them all.  Unfortunately, that fame also means it might also be the most congested.

In 2019, more than 9.6 million visitors streamed through its doors.  That sounds crazy crowded
but we were part of that horde.

Two months before we arrived in Paris, the security and reception staff at the Louvre had gone on strike, protesting the growing number of visitors they had to contend with on a daily basis. 

The strike lasted for a day or two -- it seemed more of a symbolic protest than a real work stoppage  but it still had me worried.  Should we even chance a visit?  

However, it was Martina and Tsirol's first time in Paris so a visit to the Louvre was a must!

By the time we arrived in Paris in  July, tickets were no longer being sold for "walk-ins".  We had to book and buy our tickets for a specific time slot a month ahead. When we arrived at the museum, we had to brave the long queues due to the strict security controls and very few security equipment and security personnel -- they all looked so harried and stressed,  I could understand why they went on strike!

It was a madhouse inside  -- dutifully, we tried to see the top attractions but everyone had the 

same idea.   Martina did get a quick glimpse of the Venus de Milo, albeit from afar.  

"She has no arms, Lola!" 

Despite the crowds, Martina did try to entertain herself.  "Why aren't they wearing clothes, Lola"?

Hmmm, because they're angels and angels don't wear clothes!

Next up, the Winged Victory.  Martina was no longer amused at the crowds jostling her as
I made her stand still for a photo. 

We had hoped to see the Mona Lisa but the lines were unbelievable! The escalators going up to the salon where the painting was had been stopped just so that people could  stand in line.  We took one look at the line reaching up to 3 floors and decided to pass -- 

Je sui desole Madame Mona, mais a la prochaine fois!

It was a pity that Martina's first visit to the Louvre did not fare so well.  I was happy though that she was impressed by the architecture and the overall  grandness of the place.  She definitely appreciated the benches conveniently placed for tired and bedraggled tourists to rest on.

Thank goodness for the nearly empty Department of Egyptian Antiquities!  No crowds here and

the many different examples of Egyptian art and artefacts proved to be fascinating for an 8 year old. She finally enjoyed this one experience at the Louvre!

The Louvre is so vast  --  end to end, the galleries and rooms are over 13 kilometres in length.

You could walk through it without stopping to look at anything and it would still take you several hours to do so.  We stayed four hours but it seemed as if we spent most of the time dodging and finding our way through the crowds.  

After the claustrophobic atmosphere inside the museum, it was a relief to be outdoors, amidst the spacious green gardens of the Tuileries.  Our old friend the ferris wheel beckoned enticingly, 

care for another spin?

But no, Martina was more interested in le hamburger americaine than riding the ferris wheel.  Hamburger plus nuggets de poulet and frites!  Walking through an overcrowded museum is hungry work.

Most of Martina's frites went to feed the pigeons. I think this was the real reason why she wanted 

to eat here -- she wanted to see her "friends" and share her lunch.  

Traveling with Kids, Tip #9

While I had forewarned Martina about the crowds at the Louvre, we were still unprepared for the sheer volume of visitors -- most of them jostling, rushing, taking selfies, pushing and shoving.  

In that kind of situation, it's good to find quiet spaces where the child can sit and relax and take a deep breath.  We deliberately looked for empty galleries where she could still see art pieces without feeling hemmed in by the crowds.  

An 8 year old may not fully  appreciate the Mona Lisa but mummies, statues of strange beasts and frolicking cherubs can be a lot more interesting. 

Travels with Martina Day 8 Part 2 - An evening cruise down the Seine on Bateaux Mouches

While the Seine is famous as the river that winds its way across Paris, in reality it is,
at 777  kilometres long, the second longest river in France and one of the major waterways
of Europe.   While it may take some difficulty to sail down the entire length of the river, 
a short cruise down the Seine is one of Paris' more worthwhile "tourist traps". 
You have to do it at least once.
   

Since it was Martina and Tsirol's first visit -- we did the Seine River Cruise of Bateaux Mouches.

There are different cruises to choose from ... lunch, cocktail, dinner and and dancing cruises.  

Most are expensive and except for the usual overpriced tourist meal, you see the same
views anyway. 
We opted for the no-frills 70 minute cruise and chose an 8:30 p.m. sailing time. 
In summer, the sun sets past 9 p.m. and we wanted to see the Eiffel Tower lit up against a dark sky.

The boats are parked at the Bateaux Mouches'  dock by the Pont de l' Alma.  It turns around and heads the other direction, going towards Notre Dame and passing through seven bridges along the Seine.  

It was a gorgeous summer evening -- the heat had dissipated and it was nice and breezy on the open deck.  While there were many tourists taking the cruise, the boats are big enough that you can claim your own little corner where you can  watch Paris go by.

I felt a slight pang of regret as we passed by the Musee d'Orsay.  It was not on our itinerary for 

this trip as we thought  Martina may not enjoy spending too much time inside museums.  

For me though, this a must see when you go to Paris -- I find it much more manageable 

than the Louvre.

Speaking of which -- across the Musee d'Orsay on the right bank is the venerable Louvre, perhaps 

the most well known museum in the world.  The Pont du Carrousel which spans the Seine links the two great museums to each other. 

Our boat glides slowly towards Pont au Change, in the distance you can catch a glimpse of 

the  Notre Dame.  Look, my initials are carved on the bridge! 

Sunset softened the outlines of the Cathedral -- even with the damage from the fire, it stood 

majestic and graceful in the fading light.  Just beyond Notre Dame, the boat would make a 

u-turn back towards the Bateaux Mouches dock.

As the boat headed towards Pont de l'Alma I looked back at Place Louis Aragon, 

the northern tip of Ile Saint-Louis, one of two natural islands on the Seine (the other 

one is the slightly larger Ile de la Cite on which the Notre Dame stands).    

Place Louis Aragon was crammed with tourists.   Many were  picnicking - wine glasses 

were raised to us in various toasts.  

Jay and I usually walked here during our previous visits -- in the winter,  it's very cold and 

no one is hardly ever around.  It's a good place to sit and enjoy a view of the Seine.

We would have wanted to take a photo with the pilot but he was too busy steering!

So many riverboats of all sizes line the banks of the Seine.  Some are restaurants or cafe/bars  and there are even  houseboats for rent.  Imagine spending your vacation on a boat and waking up 

on this lovely river every morning! 

We spied the Eiffel Tower in the distance and oh no! It was still unlit and it was almost 10 p.m.  

Would Martina get a chance to see the lights of the Eiffel Tower?  

Perhaps we should have opted for a later sailing time, but then we would not have seen the 

landmarks on the right and left banks.

The boat passed the Tower before it turned around again to park.  

And yes, finally just as we passed it, the lights turned on! Merci boucoup, M. Eiffel!

We disembarked and walked back towards the Alma Marceau metro stop that would whisk us back 

to the apartment.  It had been a most pleasant evening with Bateaux Mouches -- 

after all, what better way to spend a summer evening than to take a boat down the Seine?

Oops, one last stop before we headed home.  The crepe kiosk was doing  brisk business selling sweet crepes -- butter, sugar and chocolate.  It made a tasty and quintessentially French midnight snack!

Traveling with Kids Tip #8A

When bringing kids to a place for the first time, let them try the  iconic experiences.  

What may be a "tourist trap" for you, as a frequent traveler,  may very well be exciting and 

unique for the child who is seeing it and enjoying it for the very first time.