A Henro Postcript

Strung out over 1,400 kilometres around the island of Shikoku, the 88 Temple Pilgrimage winds through towns and cities, rural roads and sometimes,  very difficult and lonely terrain.  

The henro moves forward, from temple 1 all the way to temple 88.  And then, when he comes 

to the 88th temple,  he  realises he needs to go back to temple 1 to complete the circle.  

The Hachijuhakkasho-meguri, the Japanese term for the pilgrimage, follows in Kobo Daishi's footsteps as he walked around Shikoku starting in Tokushima and tracing the coastline through 

Kochi, Ehime and finally Kagawa.  This circular route has been likened to a mandala  with each prefecture symbolising a  stage not just in the pilgrimage, but in one's growth and journey 

through life.  

Walking the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo, I learned soon enough that the pilgrimage was not about finding Santiago or the kami for that matter.   

Here in Shikoku, the henro traces the Daishi's footsteps.  Was I looking for Kobo Daishi?

Was that the reason for walking this route?  Should I be looking for enlightenment, as the mandala showed. If I reached Kagawa, would it mean that I achieved nirvana?

It was too much for me -- I put all such thoughts out of my mind.  Instead I simply walked. 

I strolled, I sauntered.  I put one foot in front of the other,  following the path and being acutely 

aware of my surroundings in each specific instance in time.

I wondered ... is enlightenment the goal of a pilgrim? Is it a stage that one achieves, as part of a process?  

But Kobo Daishi had said that enlightenment was never far off.  "It is present within the 

mind  since birth".  Do not look for something that is already within you.  

But rather, bring it up to the fore. 

Shingon Buddhism, the sect that Kobo Daishi founded,  teaches that one can 

attain Buddha-hood during one's lifetime.  "There is a Buddha in all of us" a monk 

in Koyasan told me.  How to nurture the Buddha within is what we need to learn.  

What an inspiring and uplifting thought.   Perhaps I could nurture  the Buddha by walking 

and just letting go.   And so I did -- I let go of all worries, frustrations and doubts.  

Of negative emotions,  what-ifs and what-could-have-beens.  As I walked, as I slowly freed 

myself from my encumbrances.   I realised then,  that I had found myself. 

I also did not need to find Kobo Daishi.  My friend, the monk asked me why I had to look

for the Daishi.  "He is here" he said, touching his heart.  "When you need him, he is 

always here".  

Dogyo Ninin

P.S

I saw this bench with a cut-out of Shikoku island in Ishite-ji, temple 51.

I think it is a beautiful way to remember Shikoku -- the wide open vistas, the quiet but 

breathtaking countryside and the amazing people who welcomed us so sincerely.

Thank you for the warm smiles, the o-settai that were freely and heartwarmingly given
and  most specially, thank you for the kindnesses extended to us by everyone we met.  

Domo arigato gozaimashita!