Wednesday, November 14, 2018

A quiet walk, unspoiled at Ritsurin-koen


It was our last morning in Takamatsu and we had not yet visited its most famous attraction, 
Ritsurin-koen, said to be one of the best gardens in Japan.  Since we had a couple of hours 
before catching our train to Kyoto, we set out very early to see what we could of Ritsurin.


From our hotel, it was a two kilometre walk to the garden, cutting through the Minamishinmachi 
and Tamachi shotengai.   If you take the JR Kotoku line from Takamatsu station,  get off at 
Ritsurin-Koen Kitaguchi and the garden is just a three minute walk away.


There is a small entrance fee of 410 yen to Ritsurin-koen.  The garden covers over sixteen hectares, 
and is definitely not a place that one should rush through.   We stayed nearly two hours yet were 
able to cover only the area I have encircled in the map above. 


Thank you to the feudal lord of the Ikoma clan who started this garden in 1625.  However, construction was soon taken over by the Matsudaira clan and it was this family that would see the garden to its full completion in 1745
Ritsurin koen remained in the Matsudaira family for more than two hundred years before it was turned over to the prefecture and opened to the public in 1875.



There are six ponds in the garden, the largest of which is Gun' Ochi Pond where generations of  daimyo went duck hunting.  The garden is located at the foot of Mt Shuin which acts as a 
majestic backdrop.  This is typical of a Japanese garden landscape and is called "borrowed scenery".



The pond winds its way gently through the northwest side of the park.  As you walk, the scenery changes and you see the garden with always fresh eyes.


 The garden opens at 5:30 a.m during the summer months.  We arrived very early and aside from 
a few maintenance staff,  we seemed to be the first visitors at Ritsurin, on this lovely September morning.


Hokko, the second largest pond in Ritsurin  is located somewhat in the middle of the grounds,  dividing the garden between north and south.  I assiduously avoided all camera angles that were marred by the sight of buildings so that I could capture the garden as it was seen by the  eyes of 
the generations of daimyo who had built it. 


Bairin-kyo Bridge, with its bright red colour stood out in contrast to the dark green of the trees and shrubbery around it.   It was such a luxury to wander around without any crowds.  It was as if we 
had reserved Ritsurin-koen for our very own private viewing.


Late blooming pastel hued lotus flowers floated lazily in Fuyo-sho pond.  How could something be 
so simple and yet so awe inspiring at the same time?


Senkanchi is one of the smallest ponds in the garden.  Its clear flowing waters come from 
Mt Shuin,  a reminder that while the garden may have been shaped by human hands and minds, nature was its primary creator and architect. 


I am sorry that we just had a couple of hours to enjoy the tranquility of Ritsurin koen but I am grateful that we made time to visit.  
My photos cannot do it justice.  You will have to come and experience this remarkable garden --
it's a good enough reason to visit Takamatsu on your next trip to Japan

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