When we were planning this trip to Paris, we were so excited to see that we would be in the city right on Bastille Day. We had never spent Bastille Day in Paris and looked forward to watching the parade, seeing the air show and the evening fireworks ... it would certainly be a wonderful and unique experience for Martina.
You know what they say about the best laid plans ... Martina was still feverish and just barely recovering from her "malaise". We ended up watching the parade on t.v. which was just as well
since Jay ventured out with Tsirol only to find kilometric lines leading to the Champs Elysee where
the grand parade took place. I guess we had the better views after all.
since Jay ventured out with Tsirol only to find kilometric lines leading to the Champs Elysee where
the grand parade took place. I guess we had the better views after all.
Part 1 - An Afternoon at The Palais Garnier
Part of our original Bastille Day plans had included an afternoon at the Palais Garnier Opera House to watch the ballet. The Palais Garnier was celebrating its 350th anniversary and I had assiduously reserved and booked tickets for all three of us several months in advance. We always made it a point to catch a ballet or an opera each time we were in Paris and we were not about to miss this special day.
Sadly, Martina had to stay behind ... merci beaucoup Tsirol for child sitting that afternoon.
The Palais Garnier on Bastille Day was jam-packed. There were lots of colourful , costumed characters parading around. Viva le France!
It always gives us a thrill to be inside this gorgeous, historic building!
The Palais Garnier's main theatre is designed in a horseshoe style -- so everyone can see and, perhaps more importantly, also be seen.
There are over 1900 seats spread out over orchestra, balcony, boxes with the least expensive ones way up in the amphitheatre section.
Here are a few tips: 1) the best seats are of course in the orchestra centre but 2) the balcony boxes also give very good views and 3) no matter what the performance, the Opera is almost always sold out, particularly during peak tourist season. So buy your tickets way in advance and through the official website https://www.operadeparis.fr/en
The Palais Garnier's main theatre is designed in a horseshoe style -- so everyone can see and, perhaps more importantly, also be seen.
There are over 1900 seats spread out over orchestra, balcony, boxes with the least expensive ones way up in the amphitheatre section.
Here are a few tips: 1) the best seats are of course in the orchestra centre but 2) the balcony boxes also give very good views and 3) no matter what the performance, the Opera is almost always sold out, particularly during peak tourist season. So buy your tickets way in advance and through the official website https://www.operadeparis.fr/en
Marc Chagall's painting adorns the ceiling. It was unveiled in 1964, initially to much criticism and controversy (hmm, just like the I.M. Pei's pyramid outside the Louvre). But now after more than 50 years, it's become very much a part of this grand centuries old structure and gives it a breath of whimsy and modernity. Suspended from the ceiling is an 8 ton bronze and crystal chandelier that could make you a bit nervous, if you sat directly underneath it.
The Palais Garnier's season would be ending soon and we were fortunate to catch the very last matinee of noted Swedish modern choreographer Mats Ek, who came out of retirement to do three of his original creations -- a haunting and stark Carmen, a piece called Another Place and a new ballet performed to the familiar music of Ravel's Bolero. It was unique, slightly surreal and a fascinating change of pace for someone like me who is used to watching traditional, classical ballet.
As we made our way down the Grand Escalier -- I took a look back wondering if, like Lot's wife,
I might be turned into one of the bronze statues holding torches -- then, together with the
Phantom of the Opera, I could stay in this place forever.
The Palais Garnier is served by its very own subway station called the Opera -- what else?
The station is along Ligne 3 and connects to many other subway lines including Ligne 8 which
took us back to Filles du Calvaire, the station nearest the apartment.
Part 2 - A Evening of Fireworks by the Seine
After the ballet, it was Jay's turn to stay home and child-sit with Martina while Tsirol and I hied
off to catch the traditional fireworks set off near the Eiffel Tower.
A perfect spot would have been Trocadero where we would be able to see it up close but it would have been too crowded. We opted to stay around the Pont Alexandre III bridge which connects the Invalides with the Grand Palais.
The Pont Alexandre III is one of my favourite bridges that span the Seine.
It offers dramatic views plus there are big and beautiful statues from one side to the other.
It's photogenic, quintessentially French and it's a favourite tourist spot.
One of popularity's downsides is the ubiquitous graffiti -- here seen on the bare shoulder of one of
the bronze Nymphs of the Seine, as the bronze relief is called. There are two huge reliefs of nymphs on either side of the bridge, right at the centre of the arch.
On either side of the bridge, food trucks were selling all sorts of food -- we wouldn't go hungry
for dinner!
So many choices -- what would I buy? The benches lining the banks of the Seine were starting to
fill up -- and we wanted a good spot from which to view the fireworks. But first, we had to buy our food.
Aside from the savoury stuff -- there was a table selling all kinds of candies and sweets -- with a cooler full of ice cold beer. Dessert and drinks!
I could not resist! The aroma of sausages and chicken wafted all over from vendors selling sandwiches and grilled meats.
I finally settled on a very typical sandwich de merguez -- one you can normally find in Middle Eastern kiosks all over the city. Merguez is a sausage made of lamb with a spicy and hearty flavour.
So good with a bottle (yes, two) of cold Kronenbourg beer. In my defense, it was a small bottle.
We had arrived at the bridge at a little past 7 p.m. but in summer, the sun sets around 9:30 p.m.
The moon was out and the lights along the bridge were fully lit but the sky was still too light
for the fireworks to start.
The temperature had started to drop and our thin summer cardigans were no match for the cool evening chill. Finally, just before 11 p.m. the 20-minute fireworks show began.
In truth, it wasn't anything that I had not seen before -- I am sure I have seen much better.
But it was Bastille Day and we were in Paris watching fireworks so what could be better than that?
And then, just as the show was about to wind down -- two gigantic hearts appeared on the night sky.
Je t' aime, Paris ... je t' aime pour toujours.
Traveling with kids Tip #6
It was disappointing for Martina to miss the Ballet but she was still not fully well. When things don't go as planned, explain to the child very well to lessen upset feelings. It also helped a lot that we had a friend who could stay with her while we were out. Before leaving, we made sure she had food to eat, books to read and games to play to keep her occupied and busy.
