Koyasan, my soul's quiet place : Part 2 A walk around the sacred mountain

Wanting to relax from the (uphill) rigours of the Kumano Kodo and yet not wishing to see our pilgrimage end,  I arranged for a post-Kumano visit to Mt. Koya, the holiest mountain of Shingon Buddhism.  The mountain is directly connected to the Shinto pilgrimage as it is one of the five routes that pilgrims used to and continue to walk on to this very day. 

We woke up very early to get ready for the 6:30  morning sutra chanting service at our shukubo (temple lodging).   There was enough time to walk around the grounds of Eko-in and enjoy the early morning quietude.

The giant peonies were in full bloom in the garden.

Masses of pink rhododendrons with their light delicate fragrance grew all around the temple.

In one corner of the yard is an inari shrine -- not at all unusual to find a Shinto shrine in a Buddhist temple or vice versa.

We were the first to enter Eko-in's main hall for the sutra chanting service.  The monks do this on a daily basis, chanting the Heart Sutra, among others.
Jay and I had attended this before and it is an extraordinary experience.  The rhythmic chanting with the beating of the gong puts me in a meditative state and at that moment, everything else is blocked out.

After the chanting, we are invited to come and offer incense and bow before the Buddha.   Almost everyone participates.   It is a solemn and moving experience.

The morning service takes about half an hour but I hardly notice the time ... it seems to go by so fast. Afterwards, guests are invited to a small building just outside the gate of Eko-in for the next morning ritual.

This is the goma or the fire ritual that is performed In Eko-in and a few other temples in Koyasan, every single morning.  Small wooden plaques or goma-ki with wishes and prayers written on them  are burned along with incense as an offering.
As the fire continues to grow and blaze in the the darkened room, it literally brings us out of the
dark and into the light.  

The goma ritual ends as the fire slowly dies down to embers.  We silently file out and head to our respective rooms where breakfast is waiting.  Each one of us gets a tray of shojin ryori or temple vegetarian cuisine and it seems almost  ascetic in appearance.
There is a small portion of rice,  a disk of boiled tofu mixed with herbs, some simmered greens, pickles and bowl of miso soup.   I savour the roasted rice tea that is served instead of coffee.

After breakfast, time to head out to see more of  Koyasan.
Since we have friends who are first time visitors, I asked Chieko san, a good friend and an excellent Tours by Locals guide to show us around.  This way, our friends can have a better understanding of the historical, cultural and spiritual background of Mt. Koya.  

Our first stop is the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, the Kongobu-ji.  These lovely stone steps lead to the main gate of the temple grounds.

Upon entering, you will notice this graceful wooden structure,  this is the shoro or the bell tower.   Notice the intricately carved beams on its upper levels. 

This beautiful wooden building is the head temple of the hundreds of Shingon Buddhist temples in Japan and all over the world.
It was originally built when Kobo Daishi established this sect of Buddhism in the ninth century but has been destroyed by fire many times.
The entrance on the left that you see protected by a small wooden fence is reserved for members of the Imperial Family, the chief abbott and other high ranking monks.
The entrance on the right where you see the white wooden sign is where visitors like us are allowed to enter.
Do you see the pails on the small wooden structures on the roof?  These are meant to gather rainwater which can be used to help protect the building from fire.  But since the temple has burned down so many times, I wonder just how much protection these rain buckets give?

We are free to walk around most of the areas except for the main hall and other spaces which are used only for important ceremonies.  
While Kongobu-ji, like all of Koyasan, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is also  an active and working temple where monks and other people continue to live and work.

Our guide Chieko san pointed out this enormous kitchen with its super sized cooking pots and stoves  which she said used to provide meals for as many as 2,000 monks in the olden days. 

I sympathise with the poor souls who had to wash all the dishes afterwards. 

Outside the temple building is the largest rock and sand garden in all of Japan.  Stretching out over an area of 2,400 square meters, it was completed in the 12th century.  

The garden is called Banryu-tei  and it features 140 massive rocks meant to symbolise two large dragons rising from the sea to guard the temple. 

Perhaps you can't visualise it from this photo but as I stood there marvelling at this impressive garden from different angles, I could imagine a head, a tail ... until I could see what the garden designer wanted me to see. 

These  heavy rocks came all the way from the island of Shikoku where Kobo Daishi was born.
The meticulously raked sand came from Kyoto.   I cannot imagine how the gardener who designed this managed to bring all those materials up to Mt. Koya, way before 18 wheeler trucks were invented. 

A striking patch of carefully pruned and arranged shrubbery is a refreshing sight amidst the dazzlingly white raked sand.  

From the Kongobu-ji, it is a pleasant walk under  perennially red Japanese maples to our next stop ... the Danjo Garan temple complex.  

If  Kongobu-ji is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, the Danjo Garan is the heart of the religion as this is where Kobo Daishi initially established the sect in 816.  

Together with the Okunoin, the Danjo Garan is considered as a most sacred space in the mountain.

We entered via the side gate and the first imposing structure that we saw was the Toto or
the Eastern Stupa.
This maroon painted wooden pagoda is a reconstruction as the original one burned down in
the 1800s.  

Danjo Garan was used by Kobo Daishi as the training centre for his monks.  There are many important buildings within the grounds.   Today,  the Danjo Garan is used for special ceremonies
and to commemorate important occasions.

This beautifully preserved wooden building called the Fudodo was constructed in 1197 and is one of the oldest original structures in Koyasan.  I am amazed that it has not been destroyed by fire.  

The Fudodo was designed and built by four different artisans so each side is different from the next.  Because of this architectural oddity and its ancient history, it is a  National Treasure of Japan.  

I breathe a silent prayer that it may forever be spared from fire or any disaster.

The blindingly vermillion pagoda is known as the Konpon Daito or the Great Stupa.  It is also one 

of the most recognised buildings in Koyasan.  

For a small fee, you can enter to view the statues and images inside.   Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside so I can't share any with you. 

In front of the Great Stupa is the Kondo or the main hall.  This has been burnt and rebuilt many times.  It is the site for many traditional Buddhist services and is also the largest building in the 

Danjo Garan complex.

We wind down our visit to Danjo Garan by the new gate in front of the Kondo.  

I do not recall seeing this during my first visit and Chieko san said it had been constructed in the 

last 3 years.

It has been a hot and sunny morning and we take a break for lunch.  Of course I indulge in an

ice cold glass of nama beer.  This is the real pause that refreshes!

We have just a few hours left before we have to take the train down to Kyoto.  While we did walk through Okunoin last night,  a stroll during daylight allows you to see and appreciate the many interesting things in this largest cemetery in Japan. 

Aside from the hundreds of thousands of people buried in the cemetery, Japanese companies also own memorial plots where their founders, officers or even some employees can choose to be buried.  Some of the corporate plots give the visitor an idea of what the company's  products or services are ... much like this one marked by a statue of a rocket -- perhaps this belongs to a company involved in products for space technology. 

Fans of the lacto bacilli drink will definitely recognise whose memorial plot this is.

How about some blended coffee?  I do see a very large coffee cup!

This must have been such a beloved family pet.  Man's best friend is also his eternal companion. 

One of the most popular and visited memorial plots is this one belonging to a pest control company. The memorial is dedicated to the millions of termites and other pests that the company has "exterminated".  As Buddhists believe that all life is sacred, the company has put up this mausoleum in their memory.

Even in early afternoon, the shaded paths of Okunoin provide a palpable sense of tranquility.  Because the place is so large, you will often find yourself alone, with no one to intrude on your thoughts.  

In  this graveyard, one cannot feel sad or morbid  ...  Okunoin is a place where you can walk, reflect on your  life and the different paths you take along your journey.  

My favourite of Kobo Daishi's teachings states that there is a Buddha within all of us.  The monk in Eko-in told me that when I think of Kobo Daishi, he will be there with me. 

Dogyo Ninin.

We two, travelling together. 

P.S.

I am always happy to see Chieko san, an excellent Tours by Locals guide (and who has since
become a good friend).  She  has walked with us through many temples and shrines these past years.  
Her knowledge and experience were invaluable in helping us better appreciate the treasures of Koyasan.

Lessons Learned

1. The most important areas in Koyasan are the Okunoin, Danjo Garan and Kongobu-ji.  Do not miss out on seeing them.
If there is time, there is a very interesting museum you may want to visit. 
2. There are two bus lines that crisscross the main streets.  Taxis are also available. You may also rent bikes from the tourist centre. 
3. At the funicular station that will take you down to the train headed back to Osaka, there is a takyubin or parcel counter that can forward  heavy luggage to your next destination ... be it the airport or a hotel.  Please note that it takes at least 24 hours for your luggage to be delivered.  

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Postscript : Our Dual Pilgrim Certificate of the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago

The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes  designated as a UNESCO
World Heritage site.  The other (and more popular) one is the Camino de Santiago in Spain.  

Both started  around the 10th century and both  have had millions of pilgrims walk through its
well trodden paths.
One is Shinto, dedicated to the kami or gods of nature and the other is in honour of St. James
or Santiago, one of Jesus' twelve apostles. 

The Kumano Kodo -- tucked away in a remote corner of hidden Japan is perhaps little known to
the pilgrims of the Camino.  However,  its popularity seems to be slowly growing, we met a number of Europeans and even some Americans along the trails.

The pilgrim who has completed the Camino de Santiago earns the Compostela, a small scroll written in Latin that attests to this fact.  The pilgrim who has walked the approved routes of the Kumano Kodo also receives a certificate.

And if you are fortunate to have walked both, you are recognised as a Dual Pilgrim and given a special credential. 

This is available from three  locations along the route ... from the Tanabe Tourist Center, the Hongu Heritage Centre (shown above) and the Kumano Kodo Kan Center in Takijiri.

When we dropped by on a late summer afternoon,  the Heritage Centre was quite devoid of visitors.  

There were no long queues waiting to get their credentials, as you would see in the Pilgrims' Office
in Santiago.  

Getting the certificate was quick and relatively easy.  The Hongu Heritage Center is staffed by volunteers from the community, many of whom are fluent in English.
To qualify for the Dual Pilgrim Certificate,  you should bring some proof that you have earned your Compostela from the Camino de Santiago.  A picture of your compostela is good enough.
You also have to show your passport as further proof of identification.

As in the Camino, stamps from places passed along the way are collected in a booklet.  The completed booklet is needed to show that you have really walked any of the following routes:  

a) the Nakahechi Route, from Takijiri to Hongu Taisha; 

b) the Nakahechi Route from Hongu Taisha to Nachi Taisha; 

c) the Nakahechi Route, from Hoshinmon Oji to Hongu Taisha plus stamps from Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha and 

d) the Kohechi route, from Koyasan to Hongu Taisha.

Here are the Amigos holding up our newly minted Dual Pilgrim Certificates.  We also walked the Camino de Santiago together.
With us was the Heritage Center officer and our invaluably helpful Mi-Kumano guides  Wada san and Chika san.

This is the Certificate of Completion given to Dual Pilgrims.  You can get the same certificate in the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela if you show proof of having completed the Kumano Kodo.  

Once you get your Certificate, you may be asked for permission to include your photo and pilgrimage details on the Dual Pilgrim website.   

In addition to the Certificate of Completion, Dual Pilgrims also get a commemorative pin showing 

the symbols of both pilgrimages .... the scallop shell of the Camino de Santiago and the Yatagarasu 

or 3 legged crow, a Shinto motif and symbol of the Kumano Kodo.  Both certificate and pin are given gratis and are lovely ways to remember your experiences on the trails. 

P.S

I feel doubly privileged to have walked both the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo. 

Walking through different and sometimes challenging trails, tracing the paths of many who have 

gone before, experiencing and giving thanks for the beauty of your surroundings ...  these are the 

life enhancing gifts that a pilgrimage gives to the pilgrim.   

Walking teaches you mindfulness.   As you walk, you find your way. 

Ultreia et suseia

Ganbatte

Lessons learned:

1. If you want the Dual Pilgrim Certificate, do not forget to fill up the booklet with the necessary stamps and bring a 

photo proof of your compostela from the Camino de Santiago.

2. You may get the booklet for stamps from Tanabe, Hongu or Takijiri.  It is given for free.

3. Unlike the Camino which requires you to walk a minimum of 100 kilometres to earn a Compostela, there are a number of options for the Kumano Kodo which require less walking.  The mandatory requirement is a visit to all 3 Grand Shrines. 

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Kumano Kodo Day 5 Katsuura to Nachi Taisha : Climbing the stairs to the end of my pilgrimage

On the last day of our Kumano Kodo, I woke up with the thought that my hiking days were almost over.   There was one shrine left to visit -- Nachi Taisha.  Located at the top of Mt Nachi,  we would reach it by bus but with a bit of climbing left to do.

The bus terminal is right by the Kii Katsuura railway station.  This makes it convenient for those who come from Osaka or even Nagoya and who have time only for a day trip to the shrine.   

The round trip ticket will save you a few hundred yen.  We all needed to go our separate ways after lunch, so we took the 8:25 a.m. bus to give us enough time to get back to Katsuura.  There are buses that leave earlier, the first at 6:45 and again at 7:25. But those were a bit too early for us.

After a short 20 minute ride, we got off the bus at the stop for Daimonzaka -- which literally means "gate to the slope".  Nachi Taisha is located on Mt. Nachi,  just up ahead.

Near the bus stop is this familiar marker which we first saw at Takijiri Oji, 

at the start of  our hike.  The marker states that the Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo as well
as other landmarks and areas in the Kii Peninsula are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Here is the map that shows the way to the shrine.  I've marked the various points -- the red circle shows the bus stop where we got off.  Next is Daimonzaka (orange circle) which are the stone steps that lead to the shrine.  

From Daimonzaka,  we would continue to walk up to Nachi Taisha (pink circle) and then walk down to the bus stop (yellow circle) that would take us back to Katsuura. This bus stop is also nearest Nachi no Taki or Nachi Falls.   

Some visitors opt to do a counterclockwise route --  by getting off the bus at the yellow circle and walking their way down to the red circle.  

A plain stone torii marks the start of the sacred grounds of Nachi.  Past the small red bridge are a few souvenir huts before you reach the stone staircase of Daimonzaka which will lead you up from the base to the mid point of Mt Nachi.  

At the very start of the stairs  are a pair of giant cedar trees that are said to be 800 years old.
These are known as the meoto-sugi or husband and wife trees so called because their roots are entwined at the base, underneath the stone steps.

We begin the steep and very crowded ascent of Daimonzaka.
As it is a Sunday, we are inundated with busloads of Japanese tourists who much to my chagrin,
bound up the uneven stone steps with such ease.
For those who need assistance, bamboo walking sticks are available, use them and leave them at the top when you finish your climb.

The air that surrounds Daimonzaka is suffused with a primordial energy -- these stone steps date
back hundreds and hundreds of years.  Trodden and well worn with the steps of countless pilgrims,
I can feel and understand the attraction and powerful pull of the Kumano Kodo.

We dawdle along the slope and soon it is completely quiet and there is no one around but us.  

The giant camphor, cedar and bamboo trees along the steps keep us cool on this warm summer day.  It is an incredible walk up this ancient stone staircase.   Surrounded by the forest, one can feel the strong chi or energy coming from this  natural environment.  

While picturesque and photogenic,  Daimonzaka is also quite a bit of a walk.
There are almost 270 steps, some of them steeply inclined,  that go on for over 600 meters, with a
rise in elevation of 100 meters.  

You  need to watch your step as it's easy to trip over the broken and unevenly placed stones. 

I see my dear old friends, the ki-no ne or tree roots and say a fond farewell to them.
Perhaps we will meet again someday?

Past the midway point, we came upon a group of Japanese ladies excitedly peering through the
trees. They quickly motion me over to point out a tiny but distinct glimpse of Nachi-no-Taki or
Nachi Waterfalls.

Along the way, we saw this hollowed out tree,  so massive that four or even five people would comfortably fit inside.  

The light at the top of the steps means we are nearing the end of the slope.  It has been an invigorating and unique  experience, climbing the Daimonzaka.

At the top of the steps, I take one last look back.  With a slight rustle, the trees seem to shroud the stone steps.  If it disappeared before my very eyes,  I don't think I would have been that surprised.

A signpost shows the way to the shrine complex.  We are headed for the direction of Nachi Taisha and Nachi no Taki. 

It's a bit of a let down to come upon this concrete car park that mars the natural beauty of the place.  While I realise a car or taxi could have brought me up here, I would not have exchanged going up the Daimonzaka for that convenience.  

There are more steps to climb on the way to the shrine.  As in most major temples and shrines there are shops selling souvenirs, amulets and crafts along the way.  The shops in Nachi are located along this stone staircase.   You can do some shopping as you stop to catch your breath.

These wooden masks and statues would make such great souvenirs but Jay calls them "dust gatherers" so all I can do is look and admire.

There are also figurines made of a type of jet black stone -- these come from the Kii Peninsula Mountain range. 

For thirsty pilgrims, there are bottles of water and tea set out by the side.  Naturally cooled by flowing mountain water, I can imagine how refreshing these must be.

At the top of the steps is a large torii that marks the entrance to Nachi Taisha. 

The view of the lush green mountains is a stunning backdrop for the vermillion torii and the
lanterns that line the steps.   The mountain breezes are no match for the hot sun -- it's an energy draining slog up this long staircase. 

And what do you think I found at the top of the steps?  Another tall and steep staircase to climb.  

Thankfully, it was the last one. 

At the top of the mountain is Nachi Taisha.   It is the smallest of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and like the Hayatama Taisha is painted in the traditional red orange of the
Shinto shrine.  We line up to pay our respects and thank kami sama for allowing us to finish our pilgrimage safely.

Another group photo is in order -- the Amigos just completed the Kumano Kodo!

Otsukare sama deshita!

Off to one side of the shrine is this giant camphor tree that is almost a thousand years old.  A  stone torii guards the entrance to the base of the tree where stone steps take you to the small shrine within.
Shinto venerates all  of nature and certain venerable elements such as rocks, water or  trees are seen as power spots where kami or gods are present.
The shimenawa or rope hung with shide that you can see on the torii signifies that this is a sacred place.

Just a few steps away from Nachi Taisha is Seiganto-ji,  an important Buddhist temple and the first stop in the Saigoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage devoted to Kannon, goddess of mercy.  This temple is 

also designated as an Important Cultural Property.

As you prepare to climb the wooden steps, pay homage to a statue of Kannon, located on the left.

Seiganto-ji's hondo or main hall is made totally of wood and is a marvellous piece of temple architecture that dates back to 1590.  Can you see the bright red pavilion of Nachi Taisha peeking from the left side of the photo? 

The proximity of Shinto shrine to Buddhist temple is a very common all over Japan.  

I particularly noticed it here along the Kumano Kodo where shrines to Oji or children of Shinto deities co-exist side by side with statues of jizos or Buddhist bodhisattvas. 

The Japanese observe and practice both Shinto and Buddhist rituals and traditions. 

I tried as best as I could to capture one of the more iconic scenes of the Kumano Kodo.  

As you walk down from the temple and the shrine, you will come to Sanjudo, the orange three-story pagoda of Seiganto-ji with Nachi-no-Taki, Japan's tallest waterfalls in the background.  

Even from this distance,  I could sense the power of the waters as it cascaded down from the mountain.

Rumor has it that the monks of Seiganto-ji know a secret spot to take the best photo from but since 

I did not run into any monk, I was not able to ask.  I can only hope my photo somehow captures this magnificent sight. 

From the pagoda, it was downhill all the way ... literally.  A 10- minute walk over paved roads 

took us down to the  stop for the bus back to Katsuura. This is right in front of the entrance 

to the stairs leading to Nachi no Taki.

On hindsight, it seems rather anticlimactic to end my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage at a bus stop.  

In a perfect scenario, I should be bowing to the gods on top of a windswept mountain or if I had 

the time, I could have been standing near the crashing waters of Nachi no Taki.

But perhaps is isn't so bad -- after all,  I was waiting for a bus  ...  to take me on to the next journey and on to the next pilgrimage.   

Ganbatte!

Lessons learned: 

1. The way down is harder than the way up.  Don't be daunted by the numerous stairs to climb, take the normal route of Daimonzaka to the Nachi Taisha.

2. The falls should be a gorgeous sight, leave enough time in your visit for the walk down to the falls.  I'm sorry we missed doing that.

3. Photos were not allowed inside the Seiganto-ji but don't miss a visit inside to see the beautiful treasures on display.

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