Travels with Martina Day 7 - A Poilane breakfast, a Ride on the Roue de Paris and a Climb up the Eiffel Tower

Self catering  is one of the pros of staying in an apartment versus a hotel.  And Paris is ideal for a self-catering holiday.   No matter where you stay, you will find a greengrocer, grocery, boulangerie, cheesemonger, traiteur -- food shops are everywhere!

On this trip the apartment we rented from our suki, Vacation in Paris was located in the upper Marais.  A two minute walk  from the flat was a Poilane Bakery, just one of its our locations in all
of France.  This shop is on Rue Debellayme, a short side street about 200 meters long.

Poilane is one of the great French bakers -- three generations have been at the helm, producing (to my mind) the best sourdough bread ever.  One whole boule weighs almost 2 kilos so people
normally buy just "un quart" as you can see in the photo above.  I also love their croissants and their
pain au chocolat --  every bread and pastry is tres bon!

Today's breakfast included fresh fruit, slices from Poilane's sandwich loaf and packets of cold chicken breast and speck -- a cross between bacon and ham. 
There was a Franprix on Rue de Bretagne, just a few minutes walk away. We ended up
shopping almost daily for ingredients and ready made salads -- it was all so convenient! 

Today was Monday and after suffering from a sore throat and an on-again-off-again fever (we think she picked up the bug from the plane), Martina was finally well enough to enjoy her breakfast of milk and cereal.  Eat up -- we have a long day ahead!

Since she had been cooped up in the apartment all week-end I felt that a day spent outdoors would be just what Martina would most enjoy.  First up -- a quick subway ride to Madeleine from which we would walk to our destination. 

The Madeleine station is near the Jardin des Tuileries, one of Paris' most popular and also its
oldest garden.
It links the Place de la Concorde with the Louvre.  It's a favourite place for people to meet,
stroll,  enjoy a picnic lunch or a even a snooze.  We walked on the side, along the tree shaded
Terasse des Feuillants which is right by Rue Rivoli.

And here was my reason for taking Martina to the Tuileries -- the Fete des Tuileries was underway!

An annual summer festival,  the Fete has all sorts of rides and attractions that Parisians of all ages look forward to.  What can be more fun for a child than a carnival!

France was in the middle of a canicule or heat wave and it felt like we were back in Manila but with less humidity. 
Martina wasn't keen on any of the other rides but she wanted to get on the giant ferris wheel - the Roue de Paris which is usually on the Place de la Concorde but had been moved to the Tuileries for the duration of the fete. 

A ride on the Roue de Paris  is one of the first things I would recommend that you do on your first trip to Paris -- with or without a child in tow.
The ferris wheel is 200 feet tall and you get a pigeon's eye view of this gorgeous city and all her famous landmarks, within the short span of a 10 minute ride.   

Just behind Martina is the Louvre with the glass pyramid in front.

As the wheel goes up higher, you can see Paris' rooftops and in the distance, the Sacre Coeur 

Basilica atop Butte Montmartre.  

It's a beautiful, clear day -- just the perfect weather for a ferris wheel ride!

The Roue de Paris is secure and safe -- each of the 45 gondolas is enclosed in clear glass which lets you see as far and as much as you can while you enjoy the slow and leisurely ride. 

Beyond the greenery of the Tuileries, there is the unmistakeable sight of the Eiffel Tower. 
Paris has been able to preserve the beauty of her  skyline by limiting the height of all buildings to
180 meters or less than 600 feet. 
This means Eiffel, at 320 meters or 1,063 feet will always soar above all other structures in the city. 

But even Paris has had to make concessions to modernity and a growing global and business community.  In the distant background, you'll see the skyscrapers of La Defense -- a business
centre  a few kilometres out of the city. 
It's full of glass and steel buildings and would not feel out of place in any American city. 
We visited La Defense once -- one visit was more than enough.

I asked Martina if she wanted to ride the flying swings -- and silently breathed a sigh of relief when she said no.  

There were many food stalls at the Fete -- serving snacks, drinks, meals.  Martina decided she wanted chicken nuggets and frites -- how decidedly un-french!

We enjoyed the dazzling colors and the fun filled atmosphere at the Fete -- but the canicule was getting to us.  Time to head back after a full morning under the sun!

Chestnut trees planted in symmetrical straight rows make for a lovely green space. 
You can see benches and chairs placed so visitors can relax -- read a book, have a quiet conversation, or just stare out into the verdant gardens. 

The Tuileries is best enjoyed during summer when Mother Nature and the gardeners conspire together to create this sublime oasis in the middle of this busy city. 

Summer flowers abound in the gardens.  The lawns are immaculately manicured and laid out in geometric patterns.  Aside from being France's oldest garden, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.  

On the way out, we pass the Bassin Octogonal -- lined with green chairs, it's a favourite spot for relaxing and whiling away the minutes, or resting your tired feet. 
Since we've always visited in winter, we're used to seeing people sitting in the chairs,  huddled in their winter coats, holding hot cups of coffee.

It's a big (and not really welcome) change to see sunbathers in shorts and skimpy tops,  tanning
(or simply burning) under the blazing summer sun.  

From the Tuileries, we headed to the Eiffel Tower, getting off at the subway station of 

Alma-Marceau.  While it's not the nearest stop to the tower, we had plenty of time and decided 

that a walk by the Seine would be a pleasant and scenic stroll for Martina. 

Right outside the subway exit of Alma-Marceau is the gilded Flame of Liberty which has since become the unofficial monument to Princess Diana.  It was near this spot where  she had her 

tragic accident in August, 1997.   This little spot is now called the Pont Diana.  

Flowers, notes and photos are laid at the foot of the flame -- even after many many years, the 

People's Princess is well remembered and well loved.

We take a break by the fast moving waters of the Seine for Martina to hold up her little
Eiffel Tower for a photo op with the real, much bigger version.

I had reserved tickets for a 5 p.m. visit so we skipped the horrendously long lines and had 

just a short wait for the elevator.  

The Eiffel Tower must be the most visited attraction in France so please don't come without a 

pre-reserved ticket and time slot -- even during off peak seasons like winter, it is recommended to pre-book and buy. 

There are several types of tickets available -- one is with lift access to the second floor or the middle part of the tower and the other is with lift access to both the second floor and the top of the tower.  There are also cheaper tickets for just stair access to the second floor.   

But who wants to huff and puff up and down those steps?  

On my first visit, I did use the stairs but I was young and twenty and now I'm decrepit and sixty (plus). 

In our previous visits, we had always booked tickets for the second floor -- as any tourist guide and local will tell you, the best views are from that vantage point.

You're high enough to see all of Paris as you walk around the north, east, south and west sides 

but you're still close enough to recognise monuments -- oh look, there's Place du Trocadero across the Seine and yes, La Defense looms (unattractively) again in the horizon. 

Go to the other side and see another view of Paris. On the extreme left is the gold dome of the Church of Les Invalides, where Napoleon is buried.

Champ de Mars is laid out before you and as if mocking M. Eiffel, the  Tour de Montparnasse 

stands almost directly across.  

While it is shorter than the Eiffel Tower, its modern and sleek  design is something Parisians love 

to hate, saying it destroys the significant and historic lay out of their city.

But here's a tip I got from a local guide -- the views from the top of Montparnasse are much better.  

Why?  Because you can see Eiffel Tower and you can't see the Montparnasse!  

Before we took the lift to the top, Martina stopped by this tower made of macarons.  

The lines to buy souvenir boxes of this typical french pastry were so long that we had to settle 

for this photo instead.

Please, no graffiti on this most renowned monument -- and thankfully there was none.  

I suppose violators will be thrown off the Tower.

We're at the top!  There's a very expensive, reservations only fine dining restaurant,  where a 

set menu starts at 190 euros.   Perhaps we should have lined up for those macarons after all.

It's our first time at the top of the Eiffel Tower! C'est magnifique!

As expected, the views from the top are almost Lilliputian.  But you can still admire the neat and orderly way the city is laid out --  and how all the buildings are almost of the same height and architectural style.

There are names and statistics of tall towers and buildings around the world.  I'm not surprised to see an entry from the Philippines -- Stratford Residences merits mention.  It is just 12 meters shorter than the Eiffel Tower. 

Bisous, M. Eiffel!  We had a most enjoyable visit!

It's past 7 pm when we finally set foot back on firm ground.  The sun is still high up in the sky.  

We would have to come back another time to see the Tower all lit up -- it's an amazing sight that 

we don't want Martina to miss.

A few years ago, one of Martina's favourite book characters was the little french girl Madeline 

from Ludwig Bemelman's book series of the same name.  

On "Come as Your Favorite Character" day at her school, she came dressed as Madeline, 

in a blue dress and a little blue cape.  

We brought along that cape and had her wear it while posing in front of the Eiffel Tower.  

Our little Pinay Madeline had finally made it to Paris!

Was it the memory of that book and Madeline that made Martina stop for quite a while to continue to gaze at the Eiffel Tower?   

But I completely understood,  and I knew how she felt.  I too have found it difficult to turn away 

from this view.

We took the subway back to the apartment from the Place du Trocadero  so that Martina could 

see what many say is the best view of the Eiffel Tower.  

Even the thick crowds of tourists, vendors (not to mention probably the scammers and the pickpockets),  could take anything away from the incredible sight of Gustave Eiffel's masterpiece.

It is way past dinnertime and bedtime for one tired eight year old.  It had been a long and 

exhausting day. 

It's almost 9 pm when we get back to the apartment.  Fortunately, the take out sushi shop at the 

corner was  still open and trays of fresh sushi were available.  It was  delicious and familiar treat -- 

we were all faim or in keeping with what we were having,  we are all onaka ga suita. 

A special treat for dessert -- a decadent pastry from the Pierre Herme boutique on Rue de Bretagne.  This scrumptious creation was called Sweet Pleasure and was a milk chocolate pastry with pralines.

Delicieuse!

Chocolate goes well with wine -- and whoever said that wine must be expensive to be good is 

pulling your leg.   This bottle cost just a little bit over 3 euros from our neighbourhood 

Franprix and it was one of the nicest white wines I had every enjoyed.

A ta sante!

Traveling with Kids Tip #7

Some kids may find that tourist attractions are not all that attractive -- gardens are boring and museums even more so.  Try to look for an attraction where they can have fun and work off that restless energy -- run around a park, get on a carnival ride,  go for a walk by the river.  

Before we left, we also talked to Martina about the sights that she shouldn't miss so she was excited and ready for her Eiffel Tower visit.  

Travels with Martina Day 6 - An Iconic Bastille Day in France Parts 1 and 2

When we were planning this trip to Paris, we were so excited to see that we would be in the city right on Bastille Day.  We had never spent Bastille Day in Paris and looked forward to watching the parade, seeing the air show and the evening fireworks ... it would certainly be a wonderful and unique experience for Martina. 

You know what they say about the best laid plans ... Martina was still feverish and just barely recovering from her "malaise".  We ended up watching the parade on t.v. which was just as well
since Jay ventured out with Tsirol only to find kilometric lines leading to the Champs Elysee where
the grand parade took place.  I guess we had the better views after all. 

Part 1 - An Afternoon at The Palais Garnier 

Part of our  original Bastille Day plans had included an afternoon at  the Palais Garnier Opera House to watch the ballet. The Palais Garnier was celebrating its 350th anniversary and I had assiduously reserved and booked tickets for all three of us several months in advance.  We always made it a point to catch a ballet or an opera each time we were in Paris and we were not about to miss this special day. 

Sadly, Martina had to stay behind ...  merci beaucoup Tsirol for child sitting that afternoon. 

The Palais Garnier  on Bastille Day was jam-packed.  There were lots of colourful , costumed characters parading around.  Viva le France!

It always gives us a thrill to be inside this gorgeous, historic building!
The Palais Garnier's main theatre is designed in a horseshoe style -- so everyone can see and, perhaps more importantly, also be seen.
There are over 1900 seats spread out over orchestra, balcony, boxes with the least expensive ones way up in the amphitheatre section.
Here are a few tips:  1) the best seats are of course in the orchestra centre but 2) the balcony boxes also give very good views and 3) no matter what the performance, the Opera is almost always sold out, particularly during peak tourist season.  So buy your tickets way in advance and through the official website https://www.operadeparis.fr/en

Marc Chagall's  painting adorns the ceiling.   It was unveiled in 1964, initially to much criticism and controversy (hmm, just like the I.M. Pei's pyramid outside the Louvre).  But now after more than 50 years, it's become very much a part of this grand centuries old structure and gives it a breath of  whimsy and modernity.  Suspended from the ceiling is an 8 ton bronze and crystal chandelier that could make you a bit nervous, if you sat directly underneath it. 

The Palais Garnier's season would be ending soon and we were fortunate to catch the very last matinee of noted Swedish modern choreographer Mats Ek, who came out of retirement to do three of his original creations -- a haunting and stark Carmen, a piece called Another Place and a new ballet performed to the familiar  music of Ravel's Bolero. It was unique, slightly surreal and a fascinating change of pace for someone like me who is used to watching  traditional, classical ballet.

As we made our way down the Grand Escalier -- I took a look back wondering if, like Lot's wife, 

I might be turned into one of the bronze statues holding  torches  -- then, together with the 

Phantom of the Opera, I could stay in this place forever. 

The Palais Garnier is served by its very own subway station called the Opera  -- what else?  

The station is along Ligne 3 and connects to many other subway lines including Ligne 8 which 

took us back to Filles du Calvaire, the station nearest the apartment.  

Part 2  - A Evening of Fireworks by the Seine

After the ballet, it was Jay's turn to stay home and child-sit with Martina while Tsirol and I hied 

off to catch the traditional fireworks set off near the Eiffel Tower.  

A perfect spot would have been Trocadero where we would be able to see it up close but it would have been too crowded.  We opted to stay around the Pont Alexandre III  bridge which connects the Invalides with the Grand Palais.

The Pont Alexandre III is one of my favourite bridges that span the Seine.  

It offers dramatic views  plus there are big and beautiful statues from one side to the other.

It's photogenic, quintessentially French and it's a favourite tourist spot.  

One of popularity's downsides is the ubiquitous graffiti -- here seen on the bare shoulder of one of 

the bronze Nymphs of the Seine, as the bronze relief is called. There are two huge reliefs of nymphs on either side of the bridge, right at the centre of the arch.

On either side of the bridge,  food trucks were selling all sorts of food -- we wouldn't go hungry 

for dinner!

So many choices -- what would I buy?  The benches lining the banks of the Seine were starting to 

fill up -- and we wanted a good spot from which to view the fireworks. But first, we had to buy our food.

Aside from the savoury stuff -- there was a table selling all kinds of candies and sweets -- with a cooler full of ice cold beer.  Dessert and drinks!

I could not resist!  The aroma of sausages and  chicken wafted all over from vendors selling sandwiches and grilled meats.  

I finally settled on a very typical sandwich de merguez -- one you can normally find in Middle Eastern kiosks all over the city.  Merguez is a sausage made of lamb with a spicy and hearty flavour.  

So good with a bottle (yes, two) of cold Kronenbourg beer.  In my defense, it was a small bottle.

We had arrived at the bridge at a little past 7 p.m. but in summer, the sun sets around 9:30 p.m.  

The moon was out and the lights along the bridge were fully lit but the sky was still too light 

for the fireworks to start.

The temperature had started to drop and our thin summer cardigans were no match for the cool evening chill.  Finally,  just before 11 p.m. the 20-minute fireworks show began.   

In truth, it wasn't anything that I had not seen before -- I am sure I have seen much better.  

But it was Bastille Day and we were in Paris watching fireworks so what could be better than that? 

And then, just as the show was about to wind down -- two gigantic hearts appeared on the night sky.

Je t' aime, Paris ... je t' aime pour toujours. 

Traveling with kids Tip #6

It was disappointing for Martina to miss the Ballet but she was still not fully well.  When things don't go as planned, explain to the child very well to lessen upset feelings. It also helped a lot that we had a friend who could stay with her while we were out.  Before leaving, we made sure she had food to eat, books to read and games to play to keep her occupied and busy. 

Musings on my Closet in the time of Covid 19

"I have nothing to wear!"

How many times have you  said that -- usually in an aggrieved and anguished tone. 

I used to say that often myself -- I would skim through my closets and look at every single piece with a critical eye -- too old, too passe', everyone has seen that ...  all the excuses to justify a trip to the mall.  And afterwards,  there would be that self satisfied feeling that yes, I finally had "something to wear". 
After I retired years ago, I went through a massive closet de-cluttering, giving away work clothes that I felt I would never use again.  But I also didn't really stop shopping -- this time, I felt I needed
more casual, easy going attire suitable for my new status in life.  Having given away so much,  I felt justified in buying more new stuff.

With time on my hands during this ECQ lockdown, I decided to go through my closets and see what I had and if I really had "nothing to wear".
I did a manual count of what I owned  and found out that I had exactly 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants,  43 dresses and 7 skirts.

That means if I just put on a different blouse each day and paired it with any one of the pants or skirts  in my closet, I would have at least 73 different outfits.  Add the 43 dresses and I could go 116 days or almost 4 months without having to repeat a single look.   

If I were a mathematician  ( which I am most certainly not) I would be able to compute the number of combinations that 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants and 7 skirts would come out to.

There's no reason to ever think that "I have nothing to wear".  

I would be happy to stop buying clothes in the future -- I can do all my shopping inside my closet.