Noshing at Nishiki Market - Our Kyoto Week-end Part 4

Seriously, I wanted to just go back to the hotel after that 90 minute bus ride to nowhere but cooler heads prevailed.  Why sulk when the rest of Kyoto was waiting to be discovered?

So Jay and I got on the subway to try and find the next must-see destination on our itinerary -- Nishiki Market, also known as Kyoto's Kitchen.  

This is one of Japan's oldest shopping streets dating way back to the 16th century.  It originally started out as a fish market but has since expanded to sell all types of food and specialties of Kyoto.

For a self proclaimed foodie (how abused and over used that word is!) a visit to this temple of all things food was a must.   This narrow 400 meter long alley is lined with over 100  stalls selling everything you could ever want -- raw ingredients, cooked food, utensils, even souvenirs.

Nothing can bring a smile back to my face than food!  Rows and rows of seafood vendors and I lucked upon one that sold sashimi in skewers.  Of course, I had to have a bite!

 The tuna was lightly marinated in herbs and oil -- very fresh, very succulent, very tasty! And quite inexpensive -- one skewer for just Y280!

While I noshed on sashimi, Jay had his favorite soft ice cream -- in a delectable green tea flavor!

You can find all sorts of things to buy at the Nishiki Market -- how about dried fish and small shrimp?

We walked slowly through the passageway -- enjoying every minute of the experience.

I saw a lot of food items that I would have wanted to try and take home -- but regretfully, had to keep walking past.

Tsukemono!!!  So tempting to buy some of my favorite Japanese pickles!  But would they burst and spill all over my luggage?

So interesting! Marinated and fermented whole vegetables - done the old fashioned way and kept in large wooden kegs.

Since it has become such a tourist attraction, a lot of stalls in Nishiki Market sell souvenirs and dry goods.  I found this shop selling beautiful hand painted Japanese fans and couldn't resist buying this one displayed in the window.  Black with delicately painted white dragonflies -- it would be a good non-edible souvenir.

We had reached the very end of Nishiki Market.  Just as you leave the covered passageway, you will find the Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine.
A small and lovely shrine illuminated with lighted paper lanterns ... so gratifying to find this oasis of calm and spirituality, right in the heart of a shopping street!

Lost in Translation - Our Kyoto Week-end Part 3

I couldn't believe it -- I thought Kyoto would be so tourist friendly but somehow on our first whole day out, we got lost!  Something that had never happened to us in busier, bigger Tokyo!

It started off innocently enough at the bus terminal of Kyoto Station.  We followed the guidebook directions and took bus 206 bound for Kinkakuji Temple in northern Kyoto.  The directions seemed clear enough ...

While the bus was full, we were lucky enough to snag two seats and enjoyed the view as we passed through Kyoto's streets.

The bus ride seemed to take forever --and no wonder, after more than hour, we suddenly found ourselves back in Kyoto Station!  Somehow, we had missed the stop and ended up right where we started!  How could that have happened?

Jay was pretty philosophical about it but I was in no mood to smile.

Fuming mad at myself and yes, at Kyoto ... what a waste of precious time that I did not really have much of.

Tofukuji to Fushimi Inari - Our Kyoto Week-end Part 2

Saturday in Kyoto shone through bright and hot!  Time to maximize the two day Kyoto Pass we bought and try to see as much as possible in two whole days.  

First up, a 20 minute train ride from Kyoto Station and then a 550 meter walk to the famed Tofukuji Temple, a much visited site particularly for viewing red autumn leaves.  Unfortunately we were six weeks too early so all the foliage was still a bright summery green.

This covered cedar walkway spans the treetops and is called the Tsutenkyo Bridge, a vantage point for viewing the maple leaves in autumn.  I'm sure the view must be spectacular!

Everywhere you look, there are pockets of greenery -- from leaves to moss on the ground.

We walk towards Kaisando Hall and come upon this beautifully lush pond and shrubbery garden.

It is in distinct contrast to the Zen rock and sand garden directly across it. The perfect checkerboard design adds to its unique beauty.  There are wooden platforms around where you can sit, contemplate and meditate while viewing these two different yet complementary gardens.

We tear ourselves away from the peace and quiet of Tofukuji and walk back to the train station to catch the JR Nara line to the second item on our itinerary for this morning.

Inari, our next destination is just one station away.  

Unlike Tofukuji which was quite a walk from the train station, the huge red torii of Fushimi Inari Shinto Shrine startle you right as you step through the turnstile of Inari Station.
It is just the first of thousands of red torii that make this shrine so unusual and compelling and therefore, a must if you are visiting Kyoto.

As  you walk past the giant torii, a purification fountain beckons you to symbolically prepare yourself to enter sacred grounds.  It is a simple ritual -- using the bamboo ladles provided, wash both hands with the clear cold water then rinse your mouth. 

Don't spit the water back into the fountain though, there is space at the base of the fountain for this.

The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and is placed on Mt. Inari, a sacred mountain that stands just under 300 meters tall.  What makes Fushimi Inari so significant is the thousands and thousands of red torii that wind their way up the mountainside.
You walk through these massive vermillion gates as they go on and on and on.

The torii range from massive and tall to densely clustered and lower.  I hardly noticed the gradual uphill climb -- I was so fascinated and awed by this experience!

It is estimated that there are over 10,000 red torii placed on Mt. Inari.  All the torii along the trail are donated by individuals and companies.  Printed behind each torii is the name of the donor.  Donations are quite hefty and reach up to more than a million yen for the larger sized torii.

The climb to the summit  of Mt. Inari would have taken us one hour but sadly we had to forego this pleasure.  Much as I wanted to walk through all the gates and enjoy the view at the top, we had to climb back down.

So much to see, so little time -- never had this been more true!

The walk back down the mountain is quick and easy.  As we leave Fushimi Inari, I say good bye to one of the many fox statues guarding the torii.
Foxes are said to the messengers of the god Inari and thus, so many of these statues can be found throughout the shrine.

On the walk back to the train station, we chanced upon some small restaurants -- this one had skewers of chicken fragrantly grilling on an outdoor stove. We decide it's a good place to have lunch.

Grilled chicken notwithstanding, the real specialty of Fushimi Inari however is kitsune or fox udon.  Don't for a minute think that I ate Little Red Riding Hood's nemesis.  Kitsune udon actually uses just aburaage or fried tofu.  

It's called that because legend has it that foxes like fried tofu.  

Foxes are vegetarians!  Little Red Riding Hood had nothing to worry about.

Jay ordered a bowl of mixed tempura udon which came overflowing with shrimp, fish and all sorts of vegetables.  Not oily, not greasy, lightly battered and perfectly fried -- the vegetable tempura had all the fresh sweetness of late summer vegetables.

As we walked back out into the bright noontime sun, I peered into the small kitchen where the chef was busy preparing the orders and the single waitress stood by to bring the trays out.
Finding this simple and unassuming  restaurant was surely serendipitous -- I like to believe that it was a gift from Inari. 

Our Kyoto Week-end : Part 1 Hotel Brighton

My Osaka business meeting ended on Friday noon -- and soon after,  Jay and I were on a shinkansen bound for Kyoto.  I had been traveling to Japan every year for more than 10 years but had never been to this world renowned heritage city.  We were both looking forward to seeing as much as we could in two whole days.

I booked our stay at Hotel Brighton, going by recommendations from trusty Trip Advisor.  

Even before we arrived, the hotel had already given us a taste of their efficiency and service.

They sent a fax to our hotel in Osaka with a detailed map from Kyoto Station and directions to give the taxi driver written in Japanese.  

We arrived on a perfect September afternoon.  Hotel Brighton is a 15 to 20 minute taxi ride from Kyoto station and is located in what is called Central Kyoto.  It is a 500 meter walk to the lovely Imperial Palace Park -- which is where we headed to right after we had checked in.

While the hotel is not near downtown Kyoto where the stores and the restaurants are, it is located in a very quiet and genteel residential area.  Walking through the small streets and alleys, we discovered a hidden side of the un-touristy Kyoto.

Hotel Brighton is not new nor is it designed in a contemporary fashion. The building is quite traditional and not very stylish. 

All rooms are spread out over six floors and each room looks out onto this huge atrium where there are coffee shops and various restaurants.  

Despite the fact that the hotel is no longer new, it is very well maintained and spotlessly clean.

We were  pleasantly surprised to see our very spacious and comfortable room. 

Given that this was Japan and Kyoto is such a tourist destination, I was expecting the usual space saving ultra small but efficient bed and bath unit.  I was not prepared for such a surfeit of space!

The bed was big and very comfortable and a well placed sofa in the corner made for a cozy reading nook.  This was a room where I wouldn't have to worry about tripping over my suitcase!

The bathroom was another revelation -- again, gigantic by Japanese standards with a separate glassed in area for the huge tub and shower stall.  So impressive!

This large and deep tub was uber luxurious -- even if it was made of porcelain and not of traditional wood, I filled it with hot water and pretended that I was in my very own private onsen. It promised long leisurely soaks at the end of each day.

On our first night in Kyoto, we were starving and unsure of where the nearest meal could be had, since the hotel was in such a non-commercial area.
We decided to try Feerie, the western style restaurant on the ground floor.  While it seemed like a casual open dining area, there was an unmistakeable air of muted elegance and gentility, which fit in with the Brighton's over all ambience.

Feerie had a western style dinner buffet but we didn't feel like a very heavy meal.  Besides we wanted to eat Japanese food so we opted to order Japanese curry;  a seafood curry for me and a beef curry for Jay.
It was a good decision -- the curries were excellent and tasted as authentic  as any I had ever enjoyed in a bustling curry place in the train station.  On fine bone china and in white tureens, it was just a bit more twee!

We couldn't leave without rounding out our "fine" dining experience with a bit of dessert.  The waiter recommended the fruit cheesecake which was light, not too sweet and perfect with our coffee nightcap.

After that satisfyingly tasty dinner -- it was time to tuck ourselves into the soft, waffle cotton bathrobes thoughtfully provided in our room.
We looked forward to an early night to prepare us for tomorrow's whole day of sightseeing.
An excellent first impression of Hotel Brighton was the perfect introduction to the charms of Kyoto!

An Octopus' Garden in the Night -- Osaka Takoyaki

It was my last night in Osaka and after a whole day of business meetings,  a farewell dinner party that took forever --  I realized that I was about to leave the city without having tried its famous specialties -- takoyaki and okonomiyaki. 

This was a sin of omission for me, since I always make it a point to try the iconic, signature dish in each new place that I visit.

But here it was --  almost 11 pm and I was out wandering the streets alone believing that since okonomiyaki and takoyaki are street foods, I would surely find one or the other.

Luckily, the hotel I was staying in abuts the famed Kitashinchi area -- Osaka's answer to Tokyo's Ginza.
I wandered through the well lit streets -- so many luxurious and premium looking bars, such flashy cars, so many well dressed, well coiffed women.
And then I saw it!  The familiar large red caricature of a huge octopus!  An all night takoyaki stall.
The fat squiggly cartoon tentacles seemed to wave at me  -- I would get my takoyaki fix, at last!

One order  cost only Y399.   The styropor tray held 8 large balls --  freshly made and steaming hot,  topped with sauce, bonito flakes, hot chili and with a squirt of mayonnaise on the side.
Unlike the takoyaki you find in Manila where there are hardly any octopus bits, each ball yielded large chopped pieces of octopus tentacles -- so chewy, so yummy!
Mental note to self -- this seafood treat on a weekday must be made up for by staying vegetarian on Sunday.
Small price to pay for finally getting my iconic Osaka taste experience!

Shinsaibashi no shiawase

 Shinsaibashi, Osaka's famed shopping district is in the Namba area or downtown Osaka.  It's famous for its nearly kilometer long covered shopping arcade.  

When I did a little research before coming to Osaka last September, I knew that this would be a not-to-be missed destination for me.

Running alongside Mido suji, Osaka's main street, Shinsaibashi is unlike any area that I had seen in Tokyo.  Loud, boisterous, fun, casual and teeming with crowds -- it literally took my breath away.  After I had recovered from the initial shock, I whipped out the Visa and merrily went my way.

Dontonbori or the famed eating street intersects two covered shopping arcades.  One is called Ebisubashi where there are all sorts of old and new shops, mostly boutiques catering to the young and fashionable types.

Everyone in Osaka seemed to be out in the streets!  The entrance to Ebisubashi is marked by huge lighted billboards -- which add to the frenetic yet not unattractive commercialism of the area.

 There are tons of things to buy in Ebisubashi's small shops.  How about some pre-loved and pre- owned LV bags? Still in very good condition!

Japanese brands and independent boutiques line the covered arcade.  So many things to see, what would I buy?

The Japanese certainly have a knack for names -- this pretty little jewelry store is perfectly branded. Wouldn't your heart dance too, at the sight of so many sparkly baubles?

But Ebisubashi, tempting as it was, was not my final destination. I crossed the crowded pedestrian only Ebisubashi Bridge, which seemed like a major pick up point or meeting place for everyone in Osaka.  The brightly lit shops, many small restaurants and coffee shops along the river banks looked so inviting that I was tempted to stop.

But I had more serious things in mind -- like how to spend the yen that was burning a hole in my wallet. And to liberate the Visa card that was screaming for some attention.

Fate was tempted. Fate answered.
Right at the entrance to Shinsaibashi -- my favorite store, H&M.  A mad dash into the ground floor yielded sale items that were too irresistible  -- kaching!  Good bye, yen! Hello new clothes!

I wish I were 30 years younger and 30 pounds lighter so that I could pull off this look.  This girl would look perfectly at home in Manhattan, Paris or Milan!

It was the end of summer and the start of autumn so sales abounded in the many boutiques in Shinsaibashi.
Check out how the natives dress when they shop -- trendier and more casual than what I have seen in Tokyo.

Everyone seemed to relaxed and fashion forward!  But the atmosphere was not at all intimidating.  Osaka natives are friendly and quick to smile back.

Shinsaibashi G Girl ... that's me! I was so captivated by this place.  Colorful, young, noisy, vibrant, happy -- and such good bargains too.

Unlike Ebisubashi, which has mostly small stores and boutiques, the big department stores like Daimaru on Mido suji abut into Shinsaibashi.  There are also foreign brands like Dalloyau that has a branch on this street.  Macarons, mon amie?

I must be the oldest living Hello Kitty fan!  Naturally when I saw this Sanrio outlet, I hyperventilated outside for 3 minutes then ran right in.

Kawaii desu ne! A larger than life size Hello Kitty made up of dozens of smaller Hello Kitty dolls!
Would they notice if I took one home?

To save me from incarceration and to banish my larcenous thoughts, the end of Shinsaibashi came mercifully in sight.
Dragging myself away from everything that seemed to be personally calling out my name -- I blew away the smoking hot wisps from the Visa card and tucked it back into my wallet.
Shinsaibashi,  sayonara!
Dewa mata ne!