Golden Cowrie in Cebu -- familiar favorite

Cebu is my happy stomping ground for food -- local restaurants abound, big or small, old or newly opened, hole in the wall or fine dining place ... you are sure to discover delicious meals.

An old favorite of mine is Golden Cowrie, a well known institution in the Cebu restaurant scene. Today it's been overtaken by all the new places that have opened and have generated a lot of buzz.

But as it is with restaurants that take genuine pride in what they do -- Golden Cowrie may not be the latest hotspot but they have been consistent with both food and (very friendly)  service through the years.

I was in Cebu for a quick working trip two weeks ago and I was with someone who loved to eat but admittedly had very little knowledge of the Cebu dining scene.  Finding ourselves with free time at dinner -- away from the clients --  I decided to take her to Golden Cowrie -- at its original site in Lahug.

My friend does not eat meat but we both found this sign for the famous Cebu lechon so amusing. Pinoys really have a way with words!  Unfortunately, since I'm vegetarian -- I guess I can't vouch if the lechon at Golden Cowrie is indeed "unbelibaboy".

Golden Cowrie serves traditional Filipino food -- a mix of both Tagalog and Cebuano favorites.  The place setting is a banana leaf on a wooden tray. Rice is "eat-all-you-can" ... someone comes around to ladle as much (or as little) as you want on your banana leaf plate.

It's hard to be go strictly vegetarian when out of town, specially as I cannot resist Golden Cowrie's famous baked scallops.  So we order that plus boneless daing na bangus ... and another Golden Cowrie specialty ... fried tuna fingers.
Don't laugh  -- but this is a very good dish.  The tuna is fresh and there is no oily after taste at all.
I had to convince my friend to order it since it seemed so incongruous with the rest of the "native" offerings.
And just as I thought, after she tried it, she agreed that it was a great choice.

Imbao is a type of clam which is very popular in the south.  The clams are a bit bigger and very flavorful.  In a simple broth -- the sweet freshness of the imbao is just heavenly!  

For all that we ordered (which we finished, not a fish finger nor a scallop wasted) our bill came to just P900!  Such an abundance of good and fresh food for a very reasonable cost.  

It's just one reason why after all these years, Golden Cowrie continues to hold its own among the many restaurant choices in Cebu.

Duck and Yam Rice at Yu Kee and other pleasures of Liang Seah Street

I was in Singapore for a meeting two weeks ago and as meetings go, it had been a long day.

It was 9 pm and I had yet to have dinner.  I was meeting an ex-colleague  who was sitting patiently in the lobby of the Stamford Hotel about to have a lackluster sandwich.  Snatching it out of his hands, I marched him out of hotel food hell and out into the humid Singapore evening.

Down by North Beach Road, just a ten minute walk away is Liang Seah street.  Right across Bugis Junction mall, this short alley has become a favorite late night destination for locals who want good, fast, cheap meals.  The street is lined with restaurants on both left and right sides but since we are both famished, we settle on the first one we see.
Right at the corner is Yu Kee Duck Rice, my Singaporean friend says it's been around since the 60's and is a very popular place.

Since it's way past 9 pm, duck aficionados have come and gone and we have the restaurant pretty much to ourselves.  There are no menus save for a well lit board that lists the specialties -- basically, it's just duck, duck and more duck.  I mentally say a temporary good bye to sticking to my vegetarian diet for tonight.  

The tables at Yu Kee practically hog the sidewalk -- the formica tables are sticky from accumulated duck grease.  Plastic stools are perched precariously at the edge of the sidewalk.   I must be careful or I'll fall right into the street.

The duck kway teow and the mixed plate of duck, tofu and boiled peanuts are all awash in a dark sweetish gravy.  I was expecting a drier cantonese roast ala Hong Kong and was not prepared
for duck soup!  Perhaps I should have asked for the sauce on the side.

My friend  ordered yam rice for me and it was perfectly color matched with the rest of the food.  Steamed, sticky rice with bits of yam and minced duck mixed in, it was surprisingly good.   I could have stayed on course with my vegetarian diet if I had just eaten this.  Such a savory treat -- so yammy! I finished every last grain on the plate!

This was our mixed duck plate -- according to the menu board, this is meant for sharing but it wasn't really a lot of food.  I could barely tell which was the chopped duck and which were the tofu skins since they were all awash in the dark gravy.  Boiled eggs and peanuts and cucumber slices came along with the dish.

I thought the duck kway teow would be a version of char kway teow, oily but dry.  

This seemed more like maki when I saw it in the bowl.  Sliced duck breast and flat noodles along with bean sprouts were floating in the same dark soy sauce based gravy.  

Across Yu Kee is the Tong Seng Coffehouse directly underneath the Ah Chew ( bless you!) Hotel where I've enjoyed nasi lemak breakfasts on previous trips.  

There is a good sized crowd at 10 pm, still chowing down on such favorites as fishball soup, laksa, hainanese chicken rice, lor mee, prawn mee, sliced fish noodles.  

Shall we have some late night laksa after that duck, I ask my friend and he laughs because he thinks I'm joking. He obviously doesn't know me very well.

We need to walk off the duck and take the long way back to Stamford.  We go from one end of Liang Seah street to the other -- the coffee shops and small restaurants are still brightly lit and the food scene is very much hopping at 10 pm!

An interesting name for a chicken rice place -- Fat Bird!  I can imagine how plump and juicy the chicken must be!

Ah Chew again -- and bless you!  This is a famous place for chinese cold and hot desserts.  The line is always long and we don't feel like queuing up just to indulge in some pomelo mango sago -- their best seller and best tasting dessert.
We walk past temptation and out onto Beach Road.
See you next trip, Liang Seah!
I have found my perfect place for late night hunger attacks!

My Top 5 Paris Tips

Paris is my favorite city in the world and there are millions of ways to enjoy it.  

I thought I would choose the top 5 tips that I hope can greatly enhance your visit.

1. The churches of Paris are not to be missed.

Go to church!  Not just for you to go down on your knees and thank the Lord for your great good luck to  be in Paris but to marvel and enjoy the rich and glorious architecture and treasures that each church offers.  

My very favorite is Notre Dame de Paris, which for me is the symbol of Paris. 

But there is a gorgeous church in every corner, like towering and majestic St. Sulpice (pictured above), historic St. Germain, the imposing St. Eustache, Eglise de Madeleine which doesn't look like a church at all, the baroque St. Gervais et St Protase, delicate St. Etienne du Mont,  the glorious 

Sacre Couer at Montmartre, the tiny jewel known as St. Ephraim, the grand and historic Basilica of St. Denis, the quiet and serene Church of the Miraculous Medal, the surprising and hidden Jesuit church Eglise St. Ignace, my "neighborhood" church of St. Medard ... I could go on and on. 

Most of these churches come with magnificent art works so take time to look around!

2. Shop in a flea market.

Go shopping at a Marche aux Puces literally, a market of fleas.  There are quite a number of good ones in Paris. The most famous is the gigantic one at Porte de Clignancourt simply called Les Puces but I prefer the smaller and more eclectic and studiedly cluttered one at Vanves.
The streets are lined with an assortment of treasures and junk, so look closely.
When you find something you like, snatch it up because if you don't, someone behind you will.
And oh yes, don't be afraid to bargain, just smile when you do so!

3. Go for an iconic Paris cultural experience.

And what can be more iconic and cultural than an opera or ballet at the Palais Garnier,  the official home of the Paris Opera that dates back to the 1800s.  The grand staircase, the velvet chairs, the gold decorations,  the trompe l' oeil curtain and that ceiling painted by Marc Chagall ... it's an experience you should not  miss.  

4. Paris is a walking city so... be a flaneur and walk.

And the best place for a stroll is  by the Seine.   This beautiful river separates the left and right banks and flows through the prettiest and most historic areas of Paris.  From the Notre Dame to the Eiffel Tower is just a manageable 4.5 kilometer meander.
Browse through the bouquinistes or book stalls that line the sidewalks -- they've been fixtures since the 1500s. Who knows, you may find a valuable first edition!

5. Get a 360 degree view of Paris. 

A lot of people have scoffed at the Tour Montparnasse or the Montparnasse Tower, calling it an eyesore and a blight.  Standing at 56 stories tall and soaring above Hausmann's orderly and historic neighborhoods,  it has one redeeming feature that no other building in Paris has ... an open air deck  that affords you the best view of the city... 360 degrees all around.
The Eiffel Tower, Sacre Couer, the Pantheon, the Louvre, the gold domed Invalides,  the Luxembourg Gardens, the Seine ... you can see them all.
Don't leave Paris without seeing her from the top of the Tour Montparnasse. 
It gives you a perspective of the city,  her architecture and planning which you cannot see from the ground.

P.S.  Try and learn to speak a little French!

Tourists who go to Paris sometimes leave disappointed -- "the French people are so rude!" "the streets are so dirty!" I have read so many comments like these on the internet.  While I can't do anything about the latter, perhaps I can offer a suggestion about the former.
Yes,  the French can be a bit stand-offish.  They are generally nice folks but ...  you have to be nice to them first.
Through all these years of going to Paris, I have never once had an unpleasant encounter with the French.
One of the reasons why I think I have been so lucky is because I try my best to speak a little french whenever possible.
The French, a very proud and nationalistic people,  appreciate it when you make that effort --
I think it signifies to them that you don't think english is the language of the civilised world.
So, when you enter a store or a restaurant, you will always be greeted with a "Bon jour" or "Bon soir" (good morning or good evening).  Please, don't just stand there -- say "Bon jour" or "Bon soir" back and smile,  before you go about your business like lining up for those delectable macarons, s'il vous plait (macarons, please).
That little greeting will tell the shopkeeper that you are a polite and polished individual.
And when you leave, you will inevitably be told "Au revoir" or good - bye -- and again, don't just walk out with your box of macarons, please do reply in the same manner. And don't forget to say "Merci beaucoup, Monsieur / Madame / Mademoiselle" whichever the case may be.
Let me tell you my little secret ... my go - to phrase whenever I am in Paris is "Je suis desole, je ne parle pas Francais",  said in my most amiable and humble tone.  I also throw in an embarrassed smile or a small (hopefully Gallic) shrug.  What the person I am speaking to gets is ... please pardon this uneducated but polite idiot who cannot speak the language of love.
The shop keeper / waiter / cashier / vendor / ticket agent / French person will invariably  smile, chuckle and answer  back with whatever English he or she knows.   Works like a charm every time!
Et voila, tout le monde es content! And there it is, everyone is happy.

Bon Voyage!

Great Buys at the Tokyo International Forum Sunday Flea Market

If you have read a few posts on this blog, you'll know that I cannot resist the lure and allure of a good flea market.

I make a beeline for them when I travel.  Nothing beats the satisfaction of unearthing a "treasure"  -- whether it's a vintage bag, retro accessories, used but still good clothing,  antique bric a brac or sometimes, just eye catching junk!

Tokyo has a few flea markets held during specific times of the month but the one I really enjoy is the Sunday flea market at the Tokyo International Forum grounds.

Located in the Yurakucho area, it is just off the JR station and right across Bic Camera, that holy grail of everything digital, electronic and trendy.  

This flea market has probably less than 30 vendors but it is this very small-ness and cozi-ness that makes it more interesting for me.  You can easily navigate around and discover those  "finds".

The vendors sell a wide range of used and new stuff -- from traditional kimonos to everyday street wear.  I was able to get a gorgeous plum colored yukata or light kimono for just 1,000 yen!

There are a lot of crafts --  most are sold by artisans who proudly tell me that they make everything that they sell.

This table is full of hand knit items -- all lovingly designed and done by the smiling lady who sells them. Kawaii desu ne!

There are also quite a number of vintage items -- from costume jewelry to designer bags.
Shhh, don't tell anyone but on this last visit, I picked up a used but still good Christian Dior handbag -- complete with authenticity card for the unheard of price of .... 4,000 yen!    Now, this is why I love flea markets!

Bargain hunting can make you hungry -- two small food trucks are parked at the edge, serving snacks and coffee.  Grab a sandwich and go back to shopping again!

The Dentsu New Year Party

Every year, around the first week of January, Dentsu in Tokyo throws its annual New Year Party.  Held at the same place each time, at that venerable dowager, the Imperial Hotel, it is the event of the year -- three parties spread over one whole day to which clients, media, government and practically any one who is any one in the industry is invited.

I receive my annual invitation sometime in mid December.  I don't always attend but this year, since I have been thinking of retiring soon, I think perhaps that this could be my last New Year party at Dentsu.  So I pack my bags and I go.

This huge centerpiece at the main ballroom of the hotel is where the big bosses of Dentsu stand and where most of the guests, at least those who care to, line up for a photo opportunity.  

Of course I dutifully take my place in the queue.

The New Year party starts as early as 10 am and lasts till 12 noon.  Everyone is ushered out and then the next batch arrives for the 1:30 pm to 3:30 slot.  The last party is held from 4 pm to 5:30.  

I imagine that the Dentsu hosts (who are also all the top honchos)  must be dead tired from standing, greeting and entertaining the thousands of guests who attend throughout the day.  

Just look at this crush of people, party goers all.

There really isn't much to do at the party but to talk, eat and drink.  Dentsu always gets the top notch and most famous specialty restaurants to come and cater the party.  So if you line up for tempura at the tempura station, you can be sure you're not eating just any kind of tempura but the best that money can buy.

The buffet counters are spread out with all sorts of small plates of Japanese food.

I just look and take photos since I'm not really hungry.  The array of food is just so overwhelming.

Every where you look you find trays of delectable looking and beautifully presented dishes.

The longest queue is always at the sushi counter.  There are more than ten sushi chefs from the top sushi restaurant in Tokyo,  yet each line in front of each sushi chef is still more than 10 people deep.  

Serious looking businessmen and CEOs in their best dark suits wait patiently for the sushi masters to fix  them a tray.

A Japanese colleague urges me to line up and have some sushi -- the best you can eat in Tokyo, he promises and definitely not within ordinary price range.
Which is why everyone but everyone lines up -- and some even go back for seconds.

Not all the action is happening in the main ball room.  Dentsu has this floor and the one above it, where the function rooms are -- exclusively for the party.

Upstairs, the atmosphere is more fun and relaxed.  The various function rooms are devoted to specialty restaurants where you can sit and have a meal.   Traditionally costumed Japanese entertainers, typical of old Tokyo, roam the hallways.  This one is trying to cadge a 1000 yen note from these kimono clad ladies.

There is a fortune telling room and a room where artists can do your caricature in 15 minutes.
But they've closed this room early and are now turning away people since only a few guests can be accommodated.
Perhaps if I didn't line up for sushi, I could have had my caricature done.

We see a long line in front of a function room and decide to join it.  Who knows what gourmet delights await us inside?

What we lined up for, we soon discover, is a famous 213 year old restaurant that specializes in dojo or loach fish.  Small and slim, dojo or loach is a fresh water fish that the Japanese love.
This is dojo nabe, cooked in a small pot and eaten with lots of sliced green onions.
The fish is  a bit spiny but once I get the hang of eating it, it's quite tasty.
It looks a bit like and reminds me of our own local version -- the talimusak.

They serve the dojo two ways -- as nabe and with egg in a soft omelet.  I actually prefer the omelet version since the dojo has been deboned and is much easier to eat.
Hmm, this would go well with a bowl of gohan, but none is forthcoming.

The owner of the restaurant is very gregarious and entertains us, our group are the only gaijin in the room.   The waitress says his name is Watanabe san but they all call him "shacho" or  Boss.
He is the sixth generation owner of this restaurant.

It's getting close to 3:30 and soon the party will be over, at least for us, in this time slot.  We move towards the exit and come upon a couple of booths with traditional Japanese crafts and games.

We do some rounds of simple games and win a few prizes.  It's a lot of fun and there's a lot of good natured joshing and clapping and some trash talking too.  

It's time to go and we take a photo for posterity -- these are my long time colleagues and heads of the various Dentsu offices in Asia -- from Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.
Seeing each other at the New Year party is a good way to strengthen bonds of camaraderie and friendship that have been built through the years.

Love, Eat, Pray -- Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo in 30 Days

The travel gods were unusually kind to me as 2012 ended and 2013 began.  I didn't quite plan it that way but after it had all happened, I realized that in the span of 30 days, I had been able to go to my three most favorite cities in the world -- Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo.

In a way I achieved what author Elizabeth Gilbert had done ... but not in the same order and not in so long a time.

First up - Paris!  Paris is a city for love and lovers.  Who will not fall under her enchanting and magical spell?  Even the most hardened, hard boiled realist (me) cannot resist the romance and the allure that the city brings.

From love to food in less than 24 hours.  I had barely arrived home from Paris when we had to hop on a plane for a New Year holiday in Hong Kong -- for me,  the best place to just eat and eat and eat.  What else is one to do?

A few days after coming home from  Hong Kong, I found myself on a plane bound for Tokyo.
From love to food to prayer -- all within 30 days.
The Sensoji Temple is a must destination for me.
I visit Kannon Bodhisattva, goddess of mercy.
I take my place at the urn and wave incense smoke over me -- to cure me of my ills and rid me of my sins.  I say my silent prayers and give thanks for all the blessings bestowed on me.
And then, when I am done praying, Buddha does the inevitable.
Buddha makes me cry.