An All Star Osaka Experience from All Star Osaka Walk

It was Sunday and our last afternoon in Osaka.  I had booked a food themed walking tour with a company that I found on the web -- All Star Osaka Walk.  While they did not have regular tours on Sunday, the owner, Minako san very kindly gave up her Sunday afternoon and agreed to take us on a private tour.  

She mentioned that since the huge local market that they normally took tourists to was closed on Sundays, she would nevertheless try to give us as much of a local experience as best as she could. 

Our walking tour started at the food market section at the basement of the Hanshin Department Store in the Umeda area.   According to Minako san, this is one of the best and most popular food markets not just in Osaka, not just in Kansai but in the whole of Japan.  Indeed it was crammed with shoppers on that Sunday afternoon that we walked through.  

The food market is a good place to graze -- sellers offer free samples such as this smiling vendor who very nicely gave us fish sausage and tofu sausage tidbits to try.

In addition to cooked food, there is a wide variety of the best and freshest produce available.  These matsutake mushrooms are devilishly good but also so expensive.  Minako san pointed out these very affordable ones which were imported from Canada -- hence the much lower price.  The locally grown matsutakes run for more than 10 times the price of the imported ones.

Genuine Kobe beef!  This premium box of 1.2 kilos of beautifully marbled beef sells for Y50,000 or about P25,000.

There are slightly less expensive cuts and variants available and when I peeked, the least expensive was at Y1050 for 100 grams or over Y10, 000 for a kilo.  P5,000 per kilo for Kobe beef is still an astronomic amount.  Thank goodness I don't have a thing for steak!

Walking through the market, I noticed that even if there were a lot of fresh seafood around, the area was very clean and completely free from any fishy smells.

Minako san pointed out interesting and very local seafood such as this certain type of eel.

And of course, octopus, neatly packed and ready to be transformed into takoyaki!

This stall had all kinds of cooked food, ready to take home for those too tired or lazy to cook.

After the long walk through Hanshin's huge basement food market, we ended up at a small food court called the Snack Park where kiosks of Osaka snacks are available for shoppers too hungry after seeing all that food.

 I hesitate before a takoyaki stand but Minako san promises food at the next destination so regretfully, I move on.

From Umeda, we hopped on the subway and got off at the Shinsekai area.
Shinsekai is also known as "new world" since it was developed after the second world war.  While it's now a bit run down and seedy,  it's extremely popular with young locals  and still very much busy and alive particularly its shopping and eating areas.

This takoyaki stall greets us when we get off the subway.  A portent of the eating to come?

Minako san leads us through yet another of Osaka's many covered shopping arcades.  This is very different from Shinsaibashi or Ebisubashi as it's older and definitely more downscale.
Just  the kind of place that I like.

Restaurants abound in the area -- and stand side by side with small stores selling all kinds of stuff.
No zoning in this arcade!

I am surprised by these locks placed by couples inside these  heart frames. Each lock carries names of lovers who have sworn to eternal love.   Channeling the bridges of Paris!

We come to the end of this particular covered arcade to continue our Shinsekai walk.

Buzzing with commerce and activity, Shinsekai has lots of stores targeted to locals.

The best spot to get a view of Osaka Tower is right in the middle of this busy shopping street in Shinsekai.  All around us people  are walking, shopping, meeting up with friends and just enjoying the sunny week-end afternoon.

Soon though, it's time to stop walking and start the eating portion of this food and walking tour.  Minako san leads us to a popular kushiage place called Yamatoya.  It's not yet five thirsty but I feel the need for a restorative glass of cold beer.

Yamatoya is a distinctly local place and even on a Sunday afternoon, there are a few regulars having kushiage.

We don't want a full meal, just a light snack so we order skewers of fried lotus root,  quail eggs and my personal favourite, chikuwa or fish sausage.  Beside the tray of kushiage is a small vat of really good dipping sauce.  Minako san reminds us .... "No double dipping!"

After the meal, we have our photo taken with the very friendly and cheerful chef / owner of Yamatoya. I hope I can find this place again, next time I'm in Osaka.

Pretty soon, we're walking back to the station to head back to the Umeda area.  Along the way, Minako san points to the tallest building ... in Japan and it happens to be here in Osaka.  "Osaka is now number one in food and in many things", she smilingly tells us.  "Tokyo is just number two!"

 We pass by this unique vending machine, the only one of its kind in Japan, Minako san says.  For each drink that you buy, you get a chance at winning a prize.  Jay was in luck that day, he won a name card holder after buying this orange drink.

 It had been a good three hours of walking, talking, eating and having a wonderful time.
Here we are in the subway, headed back to Umeda Station with our amazing and wonderful guide, Minako san.
An all star experience on our last afternoon in Osaka -- from All Star Osaka Walks!
Ookini Minako san!  Hona mata!

A Salary Man's Lunch in Osaka in the Middle of a Busy Day

On this last business trip to Osaka, the full day of meetings meant that I had less than an hour to grab a bite at lunch.  I headed out into the sunny September day to experience a very typical salary man's lunch.

Most of the buildings around the office had small cafes and restaurants, to serve the working crowd.
Wait, I spy a menu board!

Located a few steps down from the ground level, this plain, unassuming eatery seemed like the place that I was looking for.

True enough, full of office workers on their hurried lunch breaks, it was just the sort of place I wanted to try and experience.

Bottles of sake laid out neatly on top of the lunch counter show that this place easily transforms into a drinking spot after office hours.

 No english menu but a picture menu shows an assortment of fried dishes.  Tonkatsu, katsu curry and other fried items are the lunchtime specials.

I settled for a sakana and ebi fry. Two pieces of breaded shrimp and fish plus a bowl of rice, miso soup and the ubiquitous small dish of tsukemono or pickles.
I was done with lunch in 20 minutes.
So this is how Japanese office workers take their lunch breaks.
Now, back to work!

Tanaka at Kitashinchi -- terrific okonomiyaki in Osaka

Just south of the JR Osaka station is a lively, vibrant and very contemporary area that now rivals the popularity of Tokyo's Ginza.  

Kitashinchi is known as the nightclub and entertainment capital of Osaka but it is also a food destination.  There are many restaurants that  range from those that are top quality, expense-account-worthy  to those that are more affordable and salaryman friendly to even brightly lit kiosks and holes-in-the-wall where take out takoyaki is the main menu item.

Arriving way past dinner time at Kansai International Airport a couple of weeks ago, and finding ourselves  craving for a late night supper,  we headed to Kitashinchi to forage for food. 

After peering into the restaurant windows (at least at those we thought we could afford), we decided on this  restaurant that had displays of okonomiyaki in its brightly lit front window.  Okonomiyaki is an everyday Osaka specialty so it was just the thing for the late night hunger pangs.

Since none of us could read Japanese, we didn't even know the restaurant name ... we just pushed the door open and walked right in.

The interiors were not intimidating and neither was the late night dinner crowd, most of whom seemed to be  office workers who were having a last bite to eat before going home from the usual evening drinking session.  As in most Japanese restaurants like these, specials and menu items are tacked up on signs along the walls but the smiling waitress assured us they had an english menu.

All the tables had hot grills laid into them -- oh no, I briefly panicked.  I love okonomiyaki but not to the extent of cooking it myself.  A glass of cold beer was just the thing to calm my nerves.

The name of the restaurant, I would find out later from a Japanese colleague, is Tanaka and it is widely regarded by locals as a top okonomiyaki restaurant in the area.
What luck to have walked into it on our first night back in Osaka!

Thank heavens for an english menu!  At least I wouldn't have to stand up and look at what other diners were eating to communicate what I wanted to order.

Of course okonomiyaki was a must-have.  Often referred to as a Japanese pancake, I find that quite misleading since instead of being fluffy and spongy as a pancake is, okonomiyaki is actually a compact, savoury mound of batter, vegetables, squid, octopus bits, shrimp and even meat. 

The top is glazed with some kind of sweetish brown gravy and you can add japanese mayonnaise for a more creamy taste,  if you so desire.

A small dish of bonito shavings are on hand for sprinkling on top of your okonomiyaki.

 Aside from okonomiyaki, Tanaka also offers yakisoba with different types of toppings.
Cooked in the kitchen, it is placed on top of the hot grill for diners to mix and cook a bit more.  Tanaka's yakisoba was excellent!  We ordered the "everything on it" version and it was probably the best yakisoba I had ever tried. Crunchy strips of red ginger on top add tartness and spice to each bite.

We must have been really hungry because after the okonomiyaki and the yakisoba,  we still ordered beef teppanyaki which came with slightly caramelised sweet white onions.  I don't eat meat but  the carnivores in the group pronounced it very tasty as well.

I cannot resist fried food on a stick.   Kushiage, also known as kushikatsu,  is deep fried, slightly battered anything-you-want on small bamboo skewers.
Along with okonomiyaki and takoyaki, kushiage is considered an Osaka "soul food" and a must try when in the city.
Tanaka's kushiage comes in orders of 6, 8 or 14 sticks.  We got an assortment that included crunchy asparagus, mushroom, shrimp, chicken, green pepper, fish,  squid and beef.  There is a small dish of sweetish sauce -- but remember the number one kushiage etiquette  -- no double dipping please!

Finally sated with this last order, we walked out of Tanaka and back towards the hotel ...
satisfied, happy and full of more than just okonomiyaki.  It was an auspicious start to another Osaka eating adventure.

From Market to Market with Hansen's Hikes -- Shau Kei Wan to Lei Yue Mun to Ngau Chi Wan

It is a long week-end and I hop on a plane for Hong Kong -  it's a good time to relax, recharge and enjoy the company of my favourite travel companion -- myself.

As in my last visit, I decide to take another  hike with Michael Hansen of Hansen's Hikes.  But since it's monsoon season and the weather is wet and unpredictable, I settle for an urban walk instead of traipsing around the hills and peaks of Hong Kong.

Good choice to do an urban crawl -- it's raining steadily on the day of our walk.  To start off, we take a bus to our first destination.  Luckily, we snag the "tourist" seats on this double decker, the front row on the upper deck.  Gives me a great although blustery view of the city.

We get off at Shau Kei Wan, on the northern part of Hong Kong island.  The market here is lively, bustling and full of shoppers even on a rainy Friday morning.

The vegetables look so appealingly fresh and gigantic too.

Are these green peppers on steroids?

Aside from fruits and vegetables, there are also fresh flowers for sale.

Tucked in the back stalls are the fishmongers and the butchers.

At the end of the market is the end point for the trams that have come all the way from Central.  They make their turn around here for the return trip back.

We walk further down the road to our next destination -- Sai Wan Ho where we will catch the ferry to Lei Yue Mun.

But along the way, we pass by this small temple dedicated to Tin Hau, goddess of the sea.

I peek in and marvel at these intricately carved statues and figures, all depicting scenes of life at sea.

There is even a dragon boat right at the entrance of the temple.

We leave this temple to Tin Hau for now and walk by the bay to  get the ferry for Lei Yue Mun.  The rain has stopped but it's still a cloudy day.

There are dozens of boats parked -- some of them are pleasure craft, some are police boats, some are fishing vessels and there are also some that seem to be floating residences.

At Sai Wan Ho, we catch this small ferry which will take us from Hong Kong Island to Lei Yue Mun, a traditional fishing village in Kowloon Peninsula.  It is also a sea food market with lots of restaurants where locals and tourists go for fresh sea food meals.

After just a ten minute boat ride, we alight at Lei Yue Mun.  Small fishing boats are parked in the basin, unloading the catch of the day.

This boat has styrofoam containers of lobster and fresh prawns -- all alive and ready for the tanks in the seafood restaurants.

Michael and I walk past the small restaurants, still closed as it isn't lunch time yet.

But the fresh sea food sellers and vendors are open and all sorts of live sea food are on display.

This is geoduck -- a large type of clam that looks really strange but has a not unappetising taste.

All the vendors are getting ready for the influx of the lunchtime crowd.

We walk past the fresh sea food sellers and go deeper into the village.  Notice the red carpet on the floor?  Aside from the VIP welcome that it connotes, it has a more functional purpose -- it keeps people from slipping on the often wet cement walk.

Aside from sea food, there are small bakeries selling old style cookies and sweets.  For dessert perhaps, after a heavy sea food meal?

We walk away from the market and the restaurants and come upon this surprising view of the city skyline.  The glamour and glitz of Hong Kong seems far removed from this still charming and rustic fishing village.

Michael points out the houses that have existed in Lei Yue Mun for all these past generations.  While no new structures can be built, residents maintain and can refurbish their existing homes.

To ensure that no one builds any illegal extensions on their properties, signs like this that state the size of each of the rooms in the house are posted outside.

Even if the houses are old and cramped, you do get a magnificent view outside your window which is perhaps, why so many people continue to live in this small village.

Because this is a fishing village, we come upon another temple dedicated to Tin Hau, goddess of the sea. It is situated almost at the end of the road.

While the temple has been here for more than a hundred years, it has since been renovated and refurnished.  Everything seems a bright and shiny new red.

I just love these coils of incense that you find hanging in the temples.  They fill the place with a subtle and unique scent.

As we walk back towards the village centre, I see this "lovers' tree" complete with heart and inscription. It's a quaint touch that adds charm and warmth to the scene.

Michael points out this old style letter box, still with the insignia of King George V -- this must be from pre World War II days.  It's a wonderful relic of Hong Kong's colonial past.

From Lei Yue Mun, it's time to head to the next market and the next destination.  The travel gods are smiling because again, I snag the "tourist" seats, the front row  on the upper deck of the bus.

Michael takes me to Choi Hung Estates, one of Hong Kong's oldest public housing areas.  Choi Hung is in Kowloon, in the Wong Tai Sin district.  It's vibe is strictly local and very residential.  Just perfect for the local colour that I always like to discover.

Ngau Chi Wan is a village within the area that has its own colourful and lively market.  There are stalls selling freshly cooked food, ready to go.

What a serendipitous find for Pork in The Road -- I don't know whether to feel sorry or amused at these pig heads laid down on the floor.  The head on the extreme right is quite expressive, the poor pig has covered his eye with one ear -- perhaps in shame at the fate that has befallen him.

From dead pigs to turtles in captivity!  These poor creatures are destined for someone's soup bowl.  I am reminded why I am vegetarian.

I thankfully move away from these depressing scenes and on to the fresh produce section.

Baked goods!  My kind of store.  I buy a couple of pineapple buns, my favourite pastry.

We've gone through 3 markets and have been walking for over 3 hours.  Such an interesting and well spent morning.  As a fitting end to all the walking and exploring, we stop for lunch at a very local and traditional dim sum place.
It's been another wonderful hike of discovery and exploration -- thank you, Michael!
Here's to the next hike!