In the middle of doing my (mini) version of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a friend asked me
on Facebook "So what do you do when you visit the temples? What do you see?"
While everyone goes on a pilgrimage for their own intentions and reasons, there are still some guidelines that the henro or pilgrim is encouraged to follow.
If you would like to walk a portion of the pilgrimage, here is what I learned about temple and pilgrim etiquette 101.
Rule number one - identify yourself as a henro by wearing the proper attire. We saw bicycle and motorcycle henros wearing cycling gear but when they entered the temple, they hastily put on the hakui before reciting the sutras at the main hall.
I wore the hakui or white jacket, a sedge hat or sugegasa and carried the most important piece
(to my mind) of henro gear -- the kongozue or the wooden staff.
Thus attired, the locals recognised us and knew what we were doing, as we trudged through their backroads and backyards. We were treated kindly by everyone we met.
I wore the hakui or white jacket, a sedge hat or sugegasa and carried the most important piece
(to my mind) of henro gear -- the kongozue or the wooden staff.
Thus attired, the locals recognised us and knew what we were doing, as we trudged through their backroads and backyards. We were treated kindly by everyone we met.
While I had a backpack for my wallet, passport, bottled water, etc, I found that a small sling bag or zudabukuro was most useful for keeping candles, ofuda slips, coins and my nokyocho within easy reach.
Rule number two - all temples are marked by gates called "mon". As you approach the temple,
enter the gate on the left side, clasp your hands and bow before you cross the threshold.
Rule number three - once inside the temple grounds, you will see the temizuya, a water facility where you symbolically purify yourself.
To do this, get one of the ladles, dip it into the water and then holding the ladle in your right hand,
use a little water to wash your left hand. Then, using the left hand, pour some water and wash your right hand. Then, take the ladle into your right hand again and pour some water in your left hand and hold it to your lips to rinse your mouth.
Finally, clean the ladle by holding it upright and allowing the remaining water to "wash" over the handle.
Rule number four - if there is a temple bell on the premises, ring the bell once. If there is no bell available, there is always one hung over the entrance of the main hall, which you can ring instead.
Rule number five - light candles and incense at the hondo or main hall. If you did not bring any, there are candles and incense sticks available for sale, honour system is strictly followed.
Rule number six - drop your ofuda slips in the proper receptacle. See the rope hanging on the right side? That is attached to the bell which you can also ring -- just once, when you arrive.
Rule number seven - at the hondo or main hall and also at the daishido or Daishi hall, bow once, clasp your hands in prayer and recite the sutras. After reciting the sutras, you may also drop a
few coins as donation in the large wooden donation box.
few coins as donation in the large wooden donation box.
There are various sutras to be recited, in Japanese of course but if you are uncomfortable with chanting them aloud (as I was, since I could only read the words slowly and could not get the right rhythm) you may stand to one side and read them silently.
In the course of the pilgrimage, I stood beside many Japanese henro and eavesdropped in rapt attention as they chanted the sutras -- some of them read from booklets but more often than not, they knew the words by heart.
Rule number eight - finally after going through these actions, find the temple office and have your nokyocho stamped with the temple seal. It costs just 300 yen, a small amount to pay for a priceless memory of your visit to the temple.
P.S
It took me years of dreaming and a year of planning to embark on this pilgrimage.
I read blogs, articles and all the books I could find about the subject.
A most useful and important resource was this english guidebook that I ordered (after much difficulty) from amazon.jp The Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide contains detailed maps on the all the roads leading to all 88 temples around Shikoku Island.
The maps include locations of bus stops, train stations, convenience stores, hotels, temple lodgings -- it's a valuable and informative companion.
The book is also available at the well stocked shop at Ryozenji, Temple number 1.
A most useful and important resource was this english guidebook that I ordered (after much difficulty) from amazon.jp The Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide contains detailed maps on the all the roads leading to all 88 temples around Shikoku Island.
The maps include locations of bus stops, train stations, convenience stores, hotels, temple lodgings -- it's a valuable and informative companion.
The book is also available at the well stocked shop at Ryozenji, Temple number 1.
The website http://wwwtb.mlit.go.jp/shikoku/88navi/en/ was also very helpful
particularly for us who were more "train and public bus" henros than pure walking henros.
Domo arigato gozaimashita!
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