The distance between Ryozenji, temple number one and the normal starting point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage and Gokurakuji, temple number 2 is a mere 1.4 kilometres. The lady at the henro shop in Ryozenji told us to turn right as we exited the temple and just go straight, we would easily find it.
Weather forecasts for Tokushima for the week we would be there mentioned cloudy skies and occasional rain showers.
But so far, we had had nothing but sunshine and warm temperatures, it was almost like being back in Manila.
I was extremely thankful for my sugesasa as it kept my head cool and the sun's rays off my face.
Henro trivia: if you look closely at my photo above, you might notice that I am carrying my kongozue or wooden staff and not using it as I walk. It is said that when Kobo Daishi did his pilgrimage, he would often sleep outdoors, sometimes under bridges and thus, when the henro is walking across a bridge, the staff should never be allowed to tap on the ground as the noise might wake up the Daishi. It was something I consciously followed throughout the pilgrimage.
Shikoku's topography is mountainous -- mountains seem to border most towns and cities. Lush and green, the mountains transform even ordinary landscapes into magnificent vistas. It was always a pleasure to stop and enjoy the view as we walked along.
If you're planning to walk the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, you'll find English signs that direct
you to the temples as well as other places of interest along the national roads and highways.
The back roads and country trails however have signs that are not so regularly placed and almost all of them are in Japanese. A good map is essential to keep you from wandering off the henro-michi or the pilgrim route.
Here is Jay standing in front of Gokurakuji's vermillion Niomon gate. The temple is at the very edge of some low hills and is recessed back from the road. A gigantic car park awaits the tour buses that take pilgrims around the 88 Temples. These bus tours are very popular particularly for those who do not have the time nor the energy to walk the 1,400 kilometres of the henro michi. If you take a bus tour, you can finish the entire pilgrimage in 8 or 9 days.
Gokurakuji is a certified National Treasure with its many historic buildings and properties. Thus, it seems more well organised than most. The temple even has a bi-lingual site map at the entrance, most helpful for foreign henro like ourselves.
This lovely garden is called Unkai no Jodo or "Pure Land of sea and clouds". It's a tranquil spot that greets you as soon as you enter the temple grounds. Some of the stones used in this garden came from the ancient henro michi trails.
The Hondo and the Daishido are placed on a hill above the temple grounds. Before you climb up, you will see the Bussoku Seki or the giant footprints of Buddha carved in marble, at the foot of the stairs.
It is not an arduous nor a steep climb to reach the main buildings of the temple. Thank you for the handrails that are a big help, particularly for me when I make my descent.
The statue in the Hondo is of the Amitabha or Buddha of Infinite Light which is said to have been sculpted by Kobo Daishi himself. There are a few temples that allow photography inside the sacred buildings but when photos are allowed, out of respect I do not bring my camera inside the Hondo and only take photos from outside the hall itself. I also avoid taking a direct photo of the main deity enshrined on the altar.
Along with the simple wooden Hondo, the similarly constructed Daishido is also situated on this
little clearing on top of the hill. The weathered wooden buildings are not very grand but they exude
a sincere air and blend in well with this natural environment.
Beside the Daishido is this statue of the Anzan Koan Daishi which dates back to the 19th century.
It is said to have been donated by a woman who became very ill when she was pregnant.
Afraid that she would lose her child, she prayed to Kobo Daishi who then appeared to her in a
dream and told her to go on the pilgrimage. After returning home, she safely delivered a baby boy.
Gokurakuji is thus a favourite for expectant mothers who come here to pray in front of the Anzan Koan Daishi for a safe and easy delivery.
As I am about to go down the steps at Gokurakuji, I noticed this very small statue placed underneath a canopy outside the Hondo. The visitor is free to touch it and even lift it up. If it feels light, whatever wish you make will be granted.
I felt no need to try that as just by my being there -- at that very moment, I knew that Kobo Daishi had already heard my wish and had made it come true.
P.S.
This is the temple seal of Gokurakuji and its Niomon gate is the featured sketch on the nokyocho.
Our visit coincided with Jay's birthday. Omedeto tanjoubi, Jay san!
Life is a pilgrimage. May the journey ahead of you be an easy and blessed one.
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