Thursday, October 25, 2018

My Shikoku Henro Tales Part 9 - Jurakuji, temple number 7


Juraku-ji, temple number 7 is just 1.4 kilometres away from Anraku-ji, temple number 6.  
Since we had  a bit of time ahead of us, we enjoyed a relaxed saunter through the back roads of
Awa City,  in Tokushima Prefecture.


The road out of Anraku-ji passes a small store selling pilgrim gear, snacks, drinks and yes, soft serve ice cream - something that Jay can never pass up.  Our table faced a wide open door and the view of green hills and greener fields was so idyllic, we could have sat there all day.


It's difficult to walk on asphalt under a hot scorching sun -- the heat seems to seep up from the soles of your feet. 


The walking henro's friend -- directional signs pointing the way. 


Halfway to Juraku-ji, we passed by a stone torii, the entrance to a shrine.  It is identified on my route map as Kumano Jinja or a Kumano shrine.  What a pleasant discovery -- we had walked the Kumano Kodo, the Shinto pilgrimage just a year ago and this shrine brought back happy memories of an incredibly beautiful although sometimes challenging trek. 


The wood looked weather beaten and some of the shimenawa seemed to have fallen off but the stone lions stood quietly on guard and the kami must be unperturbed in this absolutely tranquil spot. 


The higanbana or spider lily blooms during the Equinox -- when summer is ending and autumn is about to begin.  We would see masses of them throughout our pilgrimage.  In the Japanese language of flowers,  these tiger lilies symbolise abandonment and a lost memory -- what a sad theme for such brilliantly attractive blooms. 


Upon first seeing the temple gate of Juraku-ji, my first thought was "Did I just walk back to 
Anraku-ji?"  Both temples have very similar chinese style gates.  Juraku-ji though is backed up against wooded hills.


As we entered the gate, we saw a cluster of jizo with red bibs -- these small jizo are called mizuko jizo and are patrons of aborted children.  There are seventy mizuko jizo in this small garden in Juraku-ji


A short flight of steps lead up to another chinese style gate.  Beyond it are the main buildings of the temple. 



The temizuya of Juraku-ji features a large green stone from which water used for purifying 
is made to flow. 


A very shiny and imposing table made of the same green stone is placed in the henro rest area. 
If I am to believe the translator app, perhaps the stone came from Kamo-shima here in Tokushima prefecture.  



This is the Hondo or the Main Hall of the temple.  You can see that it is sitting right at the edge of a forest.  Some of the leaves have started to change colour -- this must be a popular spot during
autumn.  



To the side of the Hondo is a statue of a Jizo Bosatsu that is believed to cure problems connected 
with the eyes.  



The Daishido is a small wooden structure set atop a flight of stone steps.  Kobo Daishi is believed to have founded this temple and he also carved the main deity, the Amida NyoraiKobo Daishi is also said to have given this temple its name which also means "temple of ten joys".  Ju-raku refers to the ten pleasures that one obtains in Buddhist heaven. 


Kobo Daishi stands by the small cemetery attached to the temple.  He is dressed as a henro with his begging bowl and staff.  Around his neck you will see a small pouch, from which the modern day zudabukuro is most probably derived.




I found a statue of Fudo Myoo, one of my favourite Buddhist deities.  He is always seen carrying 
a sword and is surrounded by flames.  Fudo Myoo looks fierce enough to scare off people but in 
truth, he is a compassionate deity who guides souls to paradise.   He looks like the perfect guide 
and guardian -- I am sure he would ward off any evil along the soul's way to heaven. 



We have a 3:15 bus to catch to get back to Tokushima City so we head back along the (still) quiet roads. 


We met a fellow henro on our way back.  This is Jun san who came all the way from Hokkaido and who is also doing the pilgrimage for the first time.  We met as he was walking to Anraku-ji and Juraku-ji, where he planned to  stay the night in the temple shukubo.  
Ganbatte, we wished each other as we parted.

P.S



Juraku-ji was the last temple in Tokushima prefecture that we visited.  This is the temple seal inscribed on my nokyocho along with my photo of the Hondo








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