Kumano Kodo Day 1 Takijiri to Takahara : Upwards (and some downwards) with the Ki no ne

The first day of our Kumano Kodo hike started well after lunch.  Perhaps because the route from Takijiri to Takahara would cover a scant distance of  3.7 kilometres and we were expected to finish the walk in good time.  Still, it took me four hours to cover that distance.
You'll have to read on to find out why ....

To get to Takijiri we took a local bus from Tanabe City. The bus stop is right in front of the Tanabe Tourist Center  where we also met up with our Mi-Kumano guides who would be walking with us for the next four days of our five day hike. 

Kumano Travel, the community based travel bureau who handled our reservations also made arrangements for our luggage transfers.  As in the Camino, we would not need to walk with everything in our backpacks as our suitcases would be ferried daily to our lodgings.
We would only need to carry what we needed for the day's walk.  

When we got off the bus at Takijiri,  Yama Shuttle Luggage Service was waiting by the stop.
This sweet little lady -- definitely smaller and lighter than me --  took my big suitcase and hefted it into her van ... without even batting an eyelash.  I was really impressed!

The Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center is located right at the entrance of Takijiri.   Before we started the walk, our guides  brought us in for a quick briefing.

Inside, the Center is made up of gleaming cedar floors and walls.  There are tourism posters,  brochures, maps and even videos about the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

There's also a store with hiking gear, for those who need some last minute purchases.  I'm happy to see that the products are by my favourite, Mont-bell -- Japan's premier hiking and mountaineering brand.

Meet the Mi-Kumano guides who would prove to be invaluable during our hike.  From left to right, they are Wada san, Jennifer san and Chika san.

Jennifer is an Ilongga married to a Japanese and who has lived in the area for over 20 years.  

We were all pleasantly surprised to hear someone welcoming us in Tagalog!  

After the briefing and the trips to the toilet (last one before we got to Takahara) we were finally
ready to head off.
Across the road from the Pilgrim Center is the Nakahechi route's official "gateway" to the sacred mountains of the Kumano Kodo.   It is marked by a small but significant shrine, the Takijiri-Oji.
Oji are "children of the deities" and all throughout the various routes, there are shrines dedicated to them where ancient pilgrims stopped to pray and rest.
Most of the very old shrines have been reduced to a mere pile of rocks or stones but are still marked with signs so you can read about their history and significance.

Like the mogotes along the Camino de Santiago,  you will find these wooden posts along the
Nakahechi and other Kumano Kodo routes.  These markers are set every 500 meters so hikers
have an idea of the distance they've travelled.
Phone numbers for the police and fire stations are on every marker -- a good reminder that
while these routes have been walked on by pilgrims through a thousand years,  today's hikers should still be careful along the trails. A false sense of security can lead to accidents on the rough and oftentimes uneven terrain.

Wada san and our guides lead us through the torii into the shrine where we  pay homage to the 

Oji and ask for a safe and accident free hike.

One last thing to do before we enter the mountain trails -- get our little booklet stamped at the shrine.   We had all been given these stamp booklets at the Tourist centre in Tanabe and instructed to collect stamps along the way.  

After we completed a certain number of stamps, we would need to show this to the Pilgrim Center at Hongu Taisha where we would be given a certificate for completing the Kumano Kodo.  

This is reminiscent of the sellos that pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago need to collect along the way so they can earn their compostela.

Right at the vey start of the path, a tree has grown over this massive boulder, its huge roots 

hugging the moss covered rock.  Looking back on this, it was a sign of what was to come -- 

we would see more ki-no ne or tree roots covering the forest trails. 

The initial way up is steep and through stone steps.  It would get progressively harder and steeper as we continued to climb.

Some minutes later, we came upon these gigantic rocks that formed a narrow opening.  

This was a test for those brave and yes,  slim enough to try and pass through.  

Our guides told us that to be able to clamber out on the other side of this stone "womb" meant 

that you had been "reborn".  Some of the Amigos successfully  experienced this "rebirth" but I 

decided that I enjoyed this life too much to want to be "reborn" into another.  

The trail is full of large and interesting rock formations, some of them with very interesting back stories.  

Our charming guide Chika san  told us the legend about this rock that hides a small cave.  

It is said that a baby was born to a powerful lord and his wife while they were on the Kumano pilgrimage. They left the baby near this rock and continued on to the shrine.

When they came back, they found the baby well and healthy -- nursed by the wolves in the forest.  

The rock is now called Chichi-iwa which  translates to "Milk Rock". 

We continued the unrelenting steep ascent towards Takahara.  Sometimes, we walked on uneven stone steps  --  I huffed and I puffed but those stones just kept climbing up and up and up.  

More difficult than the stone steps were the ki-no ne or tree roots that were even trickier, at least that's how I felt.  I had to look for secure footholds in between the roots.  One false step could mean a twisted ankle -- certainly the end of the hike for me.

The entire mountain is covered with these Japanese conifers.   They grow by the ridge along the narrow trails -- if you slip, you'll roll straight down the slope. I made a mental note to try and grab a tree trunk if that ever happened to me.

Normal seasoned hikers (these include the elderly Japanese who were trotting along and passing us on the trail) usually take the 3.7 km hike in 2 to 3 hours.  Navigating the twisting, snake like ki-no ne further slowed down my usual slug like pace.   

Thankfully at some points, we'd reach level ground -- where the roots were not as "invasive".

Time for a water break and a smile for the camera.

Halfway through the hike, the trails got a bit wider but were now covered in dried leaves making the path quite slippery.

Dirt covered paths amidst lush greenery reminded me of the Camino trails in the Galician mountains.  Instead of the smell of eucalyptus, there was a faint hint of pine leaves.

Smoother and wider walkways and a clearing at the end signified that we were nearer our goal.  It was almost  6 p.m. and we had been walking for more than 3 hours.

Three kilometres covered!  Just seven hundred meters to go.

At the outskirts of the village of Takahara, we saw this altar with two jizo. 

Jizo are traditionally deities who are guardians of children -- those who have died or were unborn, miscarried or aborted. 

This altar however houses a husband-and-wife jizo,  protectors of couples' relationships.

If you look closer, there is a sake cup in front of one of the stone figures,  I'm guessing it must be for the husband jizo. 

We are very near the centre of Takahara -- just 400 meters away.  We walked 3.3 kilometres to reach this point.  We had also climbed to 317 meters, the altitude of this mountain-top village. 

Marker number 7 is right by the roadway.   Takahara seems sleepy and quiet -- it's just after 6 pm  

but we did not pass a single person as we walked into the village.

The residents are used to pilgrims passing through -- as evinced by this handmade sign propped up against one of the houses. 

Before we got to our hotel, we stopped at Takahara-jinja which is one of the oldest shrines of  the  Kumano Kodo. 

Behind the shrine is the giant camphor tree that our guides tell me could be more than 800 years 

old.  It is enclosed by shimenawa, the rope seen in Shinto shrines  signifying that this is a sacred place. Shide or lightning shaped paper cut-outs are hung on the shimenawa -- a sign that kami or deities are present here.  

I bow my head in silent thanks to the kami of the tree for guiding my feet safely through the 

ki-no ne or tree roots along the trail.

It's almost dusk as I snap this last photo, taking advantage of the soft natural light.  

Takahara is surrounded by the beautiful Hatenashi Mountain range.  It is this panoramic vista that 

is my reward after a challenging but ultimately fulfilling first day's walk. 

Lessons learned : 

1. I do not know why  luggage transfer from Tanabe City to Takahara was not recommended to us.  Since we had suitcases, we took up all the aisle space in the bus and the local residents had to get around our  luggage to get on and 

off  - sumimasen! 

2. If you are inexperienced with tree roots and steep mountain trails, slow but sure is the best way to avoid accidents or spills. 

3. Sticks or poles are essential in navigating your way along the uneven terrain.

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Getting to Tanabe City -- Jump off point for the Kumano Kodo's Nakahechi Route

It took me nearly a year to really plan out how to do the Kumano Kodo and still there were a few things I missed along the way.  If I can get you interested in walking this venerable, time honoured pilgrimage then let me give you a few tips on how to get yourself there.
In planning this trip, I used a local tour operator which simplified everything particularly since most of the reservations had to be made in Japanese.
There are various tour companies specialising in the Kumano Kodo and other hikes in Japan but I chose a community based organisation based in Tanabe City.
I also worked with Mi-Kumano, a local group of  english speaking guides who can likewise help with  accommodations, luggage transfers and tours.  

The Kumano Kodo is in the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama Prefecture -- just a couple of hours away from Kansai International Airport but seemingly worlds and years away.  Landing at KIX is a most convenient way to reach the area.

We chose to walk the parts of the Nakahechi Route which starts at Takijiri.
There are no trains for that area so we had to take a train to Tanabe City and from there, a bus to Takijiri.

The lady at the JR Ticket Counter in KIX was very helpful -- she got us on the Rapid Express headed for Osaka with instructions to get off at Hineno Station, just two stops away.

Hineno station is one of the few stops of the Limited Express Kuroshio,  headed for Tanabe City and beyond.  We barely had time for a photo before our ride pulled into the station.  All aboard!

The Kuroshio Limited Express is a JR train that links Kyoto and Osaka with the towns and cities in Wakayama Prefecture.  We had reserved seats but after Wakayama station where most of the passengers got off, we had the car to ourselves.

The scenery outside my train window alternated between views of mountains, small villages and the waters of the Pacific Ocean.  I wish I had taken views of the coastline as we sped through.

Less than two hours later, we arrived at Kii Tanabe station.  There were a few taxis waiting for passengers but our hotel was just a few blocks walk away.
I thought the station had a quaint slightly European air -- particularly with the cut outs and designs of witches, pigs, farmers and little children.  Had we stumbled into the world of the Brothers Grimm?

Here are the Amigos -- we call ourselves this since most of us had walked the Camino de Santiago together in 2015. 

Tanabe City is a long long way from Santiago de Compostela but here we were again -- ready for another hike, another adventure. 

Hotel Hanaya, our lodgings for the one night we were in Tanabe City was small but clean and personally run by the  hard working owners.
As we checked out the next day, I was surprised to see them cleaning the rooms and taking out the laundry.   It was certainly an efficient "mom and pop" operation.

Hotel Hanaya does not serve dinner -- only breakfast.  Surprisingly, Tanabe City has a lively food scene.  Across the station is an area called Akikoji where there are bars, izakayas, restaurants and cafes.  I didn't know it but we were probably in the Food Capital of Wakayama Prefecture!  

Our innkeeper recommended a place called Ichiyoshi -- a gastro-pub of sorts with an english menu.

Ichiyoshi's food was ichiban oishii!  I had a set dinner of beef and prawns donburi which came with a tasty little pasta salad -- all for just 800 yen!  

The next morning, Day 1 of our walk, Jay and I went to the Tourist Center right beside the train station.

It offers a wealth of information on places to see and things to do in Wakayama Prefecture.  

And since Tanabe City is the starting point for those setting out on the Nakahechi Route, the centre has reams and reams of maps, bus and train timetables, brochures and everything you would need to know to help you along the way.

Right in front of the Center is the bus stop where everyone takes the bus to Takijiri, the gateway to the Kumano Kodo.

The Tourist Centre is staffed by very helpful, English speaking ladies who are only too happy to answer all questions and offer assistance for any last minute pilgrim's needs.  They can also connect you to the network of tourist facilities all throughout the Kii Peninsula  - truly an invaluable resource.

At the Tourist Centre there is a scale model of the various Kumano Kodo routes.  Encircled in red is the first leg of our walk, from Takajiri to Takahara Village.  It looks deceptively short but I always say that looks can be deceiving.  

For the Nakahechi Route, Takijiri is also called the "Gateway into the Sacred Mountains" and the official start of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.  The only way to get there is by local bus and this being rural Japan, they are few and far in between.   Make sure that you do not miss your bus!

Lesson Learned -  Tanabe City has a number of places of interest.  Aside from the vibrant food street Akikoji, there is a temple, a shrine and a beach, all within walking distance from the station. 

It's also the birthplace of Aikido.  If you are interested in any of these, it might be good to spend an extra day exploring Tanabe's charms.

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On foot and on the road in hidden Japan - the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

I first learned about the Kumano Kodo many, many years ago, when I was reading about Mt Koya 

or Koyasan, the sacred mountain of Shingon Buddhism.  

The article mentioned the mountain was connected to an important Shinto pilgrimage -- the 

Kumano Kodo. 

One of the pilgrimage's five routes that junreisha or pilgrims walked over 1,000 years ago started from Koyasan and ended in the Kii Peninsula where pilgrims visited the three Kumano Shinto shrines. 

I did get to visit Koyasan a few years after I had read about it and found it to be every bit as unique and special an experience as I had expected it to be.

The interest in the Kumano Kodo lay dormant in my mind, temporarily set aside by the busy-ness of business.  When I retired two years ago, it pushed itself forward, nudging me and whispering in my ear.

I have not yet learned to ignore these voices speaking to me. 

So I continued my research in earnest and  discovered that the  Kumano Kodo pilgrimage is one of two pilgrimage routes that enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status -- the other route being the French Way of the Camino de Santiago.  

An amazing coincidence ... in 2015, Jay and I had the privilege of walking the last 134 kilometres of the French Way of the Camino, certainly a life enhancing experience  (I also wrote about it on this blog). 

As I continued to read about the Nakahechi route, my enthusiasm grew  -- the way takes pilgrims off the beaten track, into the small towns and villages of Wakayama Prefecture, winding up and down forests and mountain trails.

It would lead me inside a Japan that few foreigners saw and that perhaps not even too many Japanese venture into. 

If I had known that the Kumano Kodo would also take me through steep, uneven and possibly risky trails (at least for on and off hikers like me)  -- would I have decided to do the trek?

A most resounding yes. Or hai, so desu!  as the Japanese would say. 

So gentle reader --  let me tell you in the next posts about my singular experience of trekking through some of the ancient paths of the Kumano Kodo. 

The Amigos' Lucena and Lucban Pre-Pahiyas Excursion -- with a verdant lunch at Isabelito's Garden

Pahiyas in Lucban, Quezon is a colourful celebration of a bountiful harvest and is one of the most famous and oldest festivals in the Philippines.  In honour of San Isidro Labrador it is held every 

year, without fail,  on May 15.

Because of its popularity, the traffic and thick crowds have made it so difficult to attend Pahiyas. 

When the Amigos were planning a quick, day trip to Quezon, we decided that a week before
May 15 would be the perfect time to go and enjoy the town amidst relative peace and quiet.

We left Manila very early to make it just in time for breakfast at Jay's family's home in Lucena, 

two towns before Lucban.

It's convenient to have one of Lucena's best restaurants located right across the house.
We had pre-ordered breakfast from Luisa and Daughter and it was a quite a spread -- garlic fried rice 

and eggs plus longganisang Lucban (Lucban sausages), tender beef tapa (marinated beef),  daing 

na bangus (seasoned milkfish)  and the restaurant's  very own homemade bangus (milkfish) sardines.   

I tried hard not to indulge, as lunch in Lucban was scheduled for just a couple of hours later.  However, it was a losing battle. Thank you to my sister- in -law Vivian for her warm hospitality and for arranging this delicious  meal!

After tarrying over breakfast and conversation, there was a bit of time left for some photos 

around the house. 

Our Jesuit Amigo  posed before this bas relief of the mountains of Monserrat.  This was sculpted by my very creative and artistic father-in-law more than 50 years ago.  He made six of these all along
the concrete wall depicting places in Spain that he and my mother-in-law visited as part of their travels.

One last photo of the Amigos before we got back on the road to Lucban.  The tile mosaic behind us depicts Nuestra Señora de Esperanza, Patroness of Seville. 

It was almost noon when we got to Lucban and the first stop was the beautiful stone church of 

San Luis Obispo, in my mind  one of the country's best preserved old Spanish churches. 

First established at the turn of the 16th century, the church has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times.  

This beautiful weathered structure dates back to the 18th century, its most recent reconstruction.  

The beautifully weathered Amigos in front of it are of a more recent edition, dating back to the
20th century. 

From the church, we headed to our lunch destination -- just a hundred or so meters 

away.   I stumbled upon this place on my last solo foray to Lucban and was just so taken with it

that I knew I had to come back -- preferably with friends that I could share this delightful place
with.   It's easy to find ...  take the road that leads out from the church and walk a few blocks till
you see the sign for Deveza Farm. 

Inside this farm right in the centre of town is a lovely little place called Isabelito's Garden.
A small house in middle of a bromeliad nursery has been converted into a rustic restaurant.

The first time I walked through the flowers and the lush greenery, I was captivated. 

I  remember that I found this place on a hot summer day but the temperature seemed 

to drop a few degrees because I was surrounded by so much foliage.

In the evenings this wooden bench must be a lovely place to sit and enjoy an ice cold beer.  But for now, the sun is too hot so we all headed for the cool indoors.

Isabelito's is completely alluring  -- it is impossible not to be taken in by its unpretentious charms.

I had made reservations a week ahead so we were seated in the main dining area.  Isabelito's is not
a very big restaurant but an annex off on one side, closer to the bromeliad nursery can easily handle more guests or even a private party.

Since we had eaten breakfast barely two hours ago, we resolved that we would eat "light".
Not too much, just enough to sample some of the specialties that Isabelito's offers.
This Thai inspired mango salad was tart but had a surprising kick, particularly if you happened to bite into a small piece of bird's eye chili, cleverly hidden amidst the green mango strips.

Isabelito's Garden is not strong on fish or seafood but quite heavy on pork and beef entrees.
One of the few "healthy" dishes on offer is this sinigang na bangus sa miso (milkfish sinigang with miso) which was refreshingly sour.
Did you know that sinigang is one of the best dishes to have on a hot day?
The spicy-sour soup makes you perspire, thus helping bring your body temperature down.

I completely forgot about taking photos before people dug in so please excuse the messy shot of this Pancit Lucban -- an enhanced version of the local habhab.  

Using the same miki noodles that the humble habhab is made with, Isabelito's version has been piled high with pork slices, bits of longganisa, string beans and chicken liver.  

In addition to this, we also ordered the Crunchy Bicol Express, which was very tasty and made with  crackling pork slices cooked in coconut cream -- so malinamnam (tasty)  but oh so unhealthy. 

Forgetting that we had vowed not to eat too much, we also ordered Isabelito's Kare Kare, that came with thinly sliced crisp fried liempo (pork belly) instead of the usual ox tail and tripe. 

Both dishes did not survive long enough for me to take any photos -- mea culpa.

After that LDL-laden lunch,  we tried to cram ourselves into this hanging wooden "frame" -- perhaps we had gained a kilo or two from all the fatty goodness since we could barely squeeze ourselves in.

We needed to walk off some calories so I took the Amigos on a short detour to my favourite panaderia.   I can never go to Lucban without stopping at Pavino's Bakery.  Their thin, melt-in-your-mouth apas cookies are second to none.

We were lucky that the owner,  Ms. Josie Pascua was minding the store.  She very graciously let us in behind the sales counter for a souvenir photo.
Do you see the multi-colored leaf-shaped kiping or rice crackers hanging on top of us -- these are what houses in Lucban will be festooned with on Pahiyas.
But don't think of it as just decor, kiping is very much edible --  when grilled and dusted with sugar, it makes a sweet, crunchy snack.

Lucban is well known for its native hats -- in all colours, designs and shapes, they are the best way to fend off the scorching rays of summer.  Just a week before Pahiyas,  vendors had set up their attractive wares in the streets -- how could we not stop and buy?

Where did the time go?  Before we knew it, it was almost mid afternoon and the Amigos had other places to go and people to see ...

I would have wanted to take them on a more extensive tour of Lucban -- to walk through the small streets,  see the heritage houses, drop in on an indie coffee shop or two but we had to go back to Manila.
Short but sweet, I think the pre-Pahiyas excursion gave the Amigos a glimpse of the small town pleasures of Lucban, ahead of the fiesta chaos and crowds.

Parini ulit sa Lucban, Amigos!


Thanks to Jay for some of the photos used in this post and of course for welcoming us all into their Lucena home. 

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Ajisoo Japanese / Korean restaurant -- a valuable find at the Cartimar Market

When I was growing up, Cartimar Market in Pasay City was synonymous with expensive imported goods.  Today, it is more known for its many pet stores,  bicycle shops and a high quality wet market.  These past years, it is also where Japanese and Korean restaurants source their authentic, hard to find ingredients and supplies. 

A number of these groceries and mini-marts can be found all in a row on one side of the market.  Right beside them are a few restaurants serving a mix of both Japanese and Korean dishes.  
One such place is Ajisoo -- located right alongside the row of food stores.  After shopping, you can drop by for a casual, appetising meal.

Ajisoo is a simple, no-frills place -- it's clean and the tables are set comfortably apart from each other. 

On this hot day, I was glad their air conditioner was operating at full blast.

Ajisoo is both a Japanese and a Korean restaurant.  Kim bob or korean sushi is offered right beside California maki.  The prices were surprisingly affordable -- which made me want to order just about everything on the menu.

The bento boxes were particularly attractive -- complete with soup and sides, you could have one for as low as P145.

While there are offerings from both cuisines, I noticed a slight skew towards Korean food.  There were also noodle dishes -- I can't imagine how they could sell udon for just one hundred pesos.  

What a great deal!

We finally settled on our orders.  The California maki came on a large platter and had twelve generous slices -- I couldn't help myself and had two before I remembered to take the photo.  

The chef was liberal with the tobiko (fish roe) and the kani slices were fat and firm.   

The mango was sun ripened sweet  and the smudge of  mayonnaise,  Kewpie-smooth and creamy.

I ordered the bibimbap which came sizzling on a stone plate.  The egg was perfectly fried, the beef was tender and the vegetables were crisp and well seasoned.  The kimchi was definitely home made and one of the best I had ever tasted.  I mixed everything with a large dollop of the piquant gochujang

the ubiquitous Korean chili paste. 

We also ordered a sashimi bento that came with six firm and fresh slices of tuna and salmon, plus 

a small salad of julienned cabbage with a drizzle of more Kewpie mayonnaise.  There were two pieces of a garlicky gyoza, a spoonful of potato salad and some vegetables steamed with sesame oil .  

This bento set cost just P195  -- how can you say no to that?

While there are no desserts offered, a small freezer by the cashier is well stocked with Korean ice cream bars.  You are more than welcome to browse and reach in for your choice.

This chocolate ice cream sandwich was light and the cake was spongy and not too sweet.  

Best of all, it was just P45!  

From appetiser to entree to dessert, this place is truly well worth a visit.  

After a shopping spree at Cartimar Market,  you'll have more than enough left over for an honest-to- goodness Japanese / Korean meal at Ajisoo.

Anyeong haseyo! Irrashai mase!

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