Travels with Martina Day 6 - An Iconic Bastille Day in France Parts 1 and 2

When we were planning this trip to Paris, we were so excited to see that we would be in the city right on Bastille Day.  We had never spent Bastille Day in Paris and looked forward to watching the parade, seeing the air show and the evening fireworks ... it would certainly be a wonderful and unique experience for Martina. 

You know what they say about the best laid plans ... Martina was still feverish and just barely recovering from her "malaise".  We ended up watching the parade on t.v. which was just as well
since Jay ventured out with Tsirol only to find kilometric lines leading to the Champs Elysee where
the grand parade took place.  I guess we had the better views after all. 

Part 1 - An Afternoon at The Palais Garnier 

Part of our  original Bastille Day plans had included an afternoon at  the Palais Garnier Opera House to watch the ballet. The Palais Garnier was celebrating its 350th anniversary and I had assiduously reserved and booked tickets for all three of us several months in advance.  We always made it a point to catch a ballet or an opera each time we were in Paris and we were not about to miss this special day. 

Sadly, Martina had to stay behind ...  merci beaucoup Tsirol for child sitting that afternoon. 

The Palais Garnier  on Bastille Day was jam-packed.  There were lots of colourful , costumed characters parading around.  Viva le France!

It always gives us a thrill to be inside this gorgeous, historic building!
The Palais Garnier's main theatre is designed in a horseshoe style -- so everyone can see and, perhaps more importantly, also be seen.
There are over 1900 seats spread out over orchestra, balcony, boxes with the least expensive ones way up in the amphitheatre section.
Here are a few tips:  1) the best seats are of course in the orchestra centre but 2) the balcony boxes also give very good views and 3) no matter what the performance, the Opera is almost always sold out, particularly during peak tourist season.  So buy your tickets way in advance and through the official website https://www.operadeparis.fr/en

Marc Chagall's  painting adorns the ceiling.   It was unveiled in 1964, initially to much criticism and controversy (hmm, just like the I.M. Pei's pyramid outside the Louvre).  But now after more than 50 years, it's become very much a part of this grand centuries old structure and gives it a breath of  whimsy and modernity.  Suspended from the ceiling is an 8 ton bronze and crystal chandelier that could make you a bit nervous, if you sat directly underneath it. 

The Palais Garnier's season would be ending soon and we were fortunate to catch the very last matinee of noted Swedish modern choreographer Mats Ek, who came out of retirement to do three of his original creations -- a haunting and stark Carmen, a piece called Another Place and a new ballet performed to the familiar  music of Ravel's Bolero. It was unique, slightly surreal and a fascinating change of pace for someone like me who is used to watching  traditional, classical ballet.

As we made our way down the Grand Escalier -- I took a look back wondering if, like Lot's wife, 

I might be turned into one of the bronze statues holding  torches  -- then, together with the 

Phantom of the Opera, I could stay in this place forever. 

The Palais Garnier is served by its very own subway station called the Opera  -- what else?  

The station is along Ligne 3 and connects to many other subway lines including Ligne 8 which 

took us back to Filles du Calvaire, the station nearest the apartment.  

Part 2  - A Evening of Fireworks by the Seine

After the ballet, it was Jay's turn to stay home and child-sit with Martina while Tsirol and I hied 

off to catch the traditional fireworks set off near the Eiffel Tower.  

A perfect spot would have been Trocadero where we would be able to see it up close but it would have been too crowded.  We opted to stay around the Pont Alexandre III  bridge which connects the Invalides with the Grand Palais.

The Pont Alexandre III is one of my favourite bridges that span the Seine.  

It offers dramatic views  plus there are big and beautiful statues from one side to the other.

It's photogenic, quintessentially French and it's a favourite tourist spot.  

One of popularity's downsides is the ubiquitous graffiti -- here seen on the bare shoulder of one of 

the bronze Nymphs of the Seine, as the bronze relief is called. There are two huge reliefs of nymphs on either side of the bridge, right at the centre of the arch.

On either side of the bridge,  food trucks were selling all sorts of food -- we wouldn't go hungry 

for dinner!

So many choices -- what would I buy?  The benches lining the banks of the Seine were starting to 

fill up -- and we wanted a good spot from which to view the fireworks. But first, we had to buy our food.

Aside from the savoury stuff -- there was a table selling all kinds of candies and sweets -- with a cooler full of ice cold beer.  Dessert and drinks!

I could not resist!  The aroma of sausages and  chicken wafted all over from vendors selling sandwiches and grilled meats.  

I finally settled on a very typical sandwich de merguez -- one you can normally find in Middle Eastern kiosks all over the city.  Merguez is a sausage made of lamb with a spicy and hearty flavour.  

So good with a bottle (yes, two) of cold Kronenbourg beer.  In my defense, it was a small bottle.

We had arrived at the bridge at a little past 7 p.m. but in summer, the sun sets around 9:30 p.m.  

The moon was out and the lights along the bridge were fully lit but the sky was still too light 

for the fireworks to start.

The temperature had started to drop and our thin summer cardigans were no match for the cool evening chill.  Finally,  just before 11 p.m. the 20-minute fireworks show began.   

In truth, it wasn't anything that I had not seen before -- I am sure I have seen much better.  

But it was Bastille Day and we were in Paris watching fireworks so what could be better than that? 

And then, just as the show was about to wind down -- two gigantic hearts appeared on the night sky.

Je t' aime, Paris ... je t' aime pour toujours. 

Traveling with kids Tip #6

It was disappointing for Martina to miss the Ballet but she was still not fully well.  When things don't go as planned, explain to the child very well to lessen upset feelings. It also helped a lot that we had a friend who could stay with her while we were out.  Before leaving, we made sure she had food to eat, books to read and games to play to keep her occupied and busy. 

Musings on my Closet in the time of Covid 19

"I have nothing to wear!"

How many times have you  said that -- usually in an aggrieved and anguished tone. 

I used to say that often myself -- I would skim through my closets and look at every single piece with a critical eye -- too old, too passe', everyone has seen that ...  all the excuses to justify a trip to the mall.  And afterwards,  there would be that self satisfied feeling that yes, I finally had "something to wear". 
After I retired years ago, I went through a massive closet de-cluttering, giving away work clothes that I felt I would never use again.  But I also didn't really stop shopping -- this time, I felt I needed
more casual, easy going attire suitable for my new status in life.  Having given away so much,  I felt justified in buying more new stuff.

With time on my hands during this ECQ lockdown, I decided to go through my closets and see what I had and if I really had "nothing to wear".
I did a manual count of what I owned  and found out that I had exactly 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants,  43 dresses and 7 skirts.

That means if I just put on a different blouse each day and paired it with any one of the pants or skirts  in my closet, I would have at least 73 different outfits.  Add the 43 dresses and I could go 116 days or almost 4 months without having to repeat a single look.   

If I were a mathematician  ( which I am most certainly not) I would be able to compute the number of combinations that 73 blouses, 43 pairs of pants and 7 skirts would come out to.

There's no reason to ever think that "I have nothing to wear".  

I would be happy to stop buying clothes in the future -- I can do all my shopping inside my closet. 

Musings of Pets (past and present) in the time of Covid-19

If you are one of my 4 followers, you will probably have realised  that I have been woefully delinquent with this blog -- posting only nine, yes NINE times last year and with only one post this 2020.  

For those of you who write, you know about that little thing called writer's block?  

I don't pretend to be a writer but I still claim it as a pretty good excuse.

These days, with social distancing and self quarantine-ing as the new normal, I find that I have lots and lots of time on my hands and no excuses not to sit down and try to write again.

I think I'll start off with some musings on how to keep safe and sane during these very challenging times -- unearthing photos of pets past and present to help me illustrate my points. 

1. Clancy says ...

It's difficult not to feel cooped up -- right now, everyone has to stay indoors and even for a retired person like myself, who does not have the day-to-day routine of dressing up, going to work, etc. it still feels like strange and restricting.   A friend on Facebook said that now he knows what it feels like to be a "bilanggo" or a prisoner.  

2. But Haw Haw the carabao counters that ... 

We are infinitely luckier than prisoners who are sitting in cells that are cramped and hot and yes, hotbeds of viruses.  We may not be up and about  but if we have gardens or yards or backyards, no matter how tiny, we can and should still go out and get some sunshine and breathe in some fresh air. 

3. Chuva was always ... 

Sleeping.  As the first week of self quarantine and lockdown ends, I am appalled that I spent most of my waking hours lying down and unawake.  

4. And Cheng was not much different.

I have tried to read my gazillion unread books but after a few pages, I would find myself drifting off to sleep ... again. 

5.  Rosie has other ideas about being by herself ... 

And if I wasn't sleeping, I was eating -- nibbling, grazing, munching.  This definitely wouldn't do!

6. But Chula somehow knows better. 

So to stay awake (with my mouth closed) I have decided to plan --  what to do when this is over and we have remained relatively unscathed.  What new things to try, where to go.  And yes, this post is proof, I have made up my mind to get on that mental cycle and start writing again. 

But in the meantime....

7. Chuling and Clancy are making the most of the situation. 

We've all been staying home and talking to each other, relishing time spent together, enjoying the peace and quiet. 

8. Rebus, Travis and Nero always knew what was important ...

Let's keep each other company --  get out of the solitary confinement of your own room, switch off the Netflix, turn away from social media and reconnect with each other.

9. Patita, Scallop and Rebus believed that ...

If you are with family or friends during this time, you are very lucky indeed.

P.S. This little fellow has something to share too ... 

It may be trite but keep smiling, be cheerful and see that ray of sunshine hiding behind the clouds.

Travels with Martina Day 5 - Up Pic du Jer and saying au revoir to Lourdes

A comfortable 5.5 hour train ride away from Paris is the  pilgrimage town of Lourdes, where we
had opted to spend our first week-end out of the city.  We wanted to give Martina a different experience,  let her see something of the French countryside.
Our first day was spent fulfilling our religious obligations.  We received a precious gift from
Our Lady of Lourdes as we were all able to take to the baths despite the long queues and thick crowds.
The next day, we wanted to see a bit more of the town of Lourdes -- away from the ubiquitous
and omnipresent souvenir shops.   We had a good number of hours ahead of us before taking the afternoon train back to Paris.

Hotel Angelic Myriam, where we stayed is a good 2 star choice that is less than a kilometre's walk from the Grotto.  The rooms were basic but clean and comfortable.  Because of its location,
the hotel is normally packed with pilgrims -- both of tour groups and families like us.

Our very affordable room rate included breakfast.  I was expecting  the usual large mug of coffee with some croissants, bread and jam but we were greeted  by a generous buffet -- cold cuts, assorted cheese, cereals,  yoghurt and even eggs and hot sausages.  Quelle surprise!

For our morning excursion, we decided to visit Pic du Jer, a 1,000 meter summit that sits among the taller spires of the Pyrenees.  To reach the foot of Pic du Jer, you can take a city bus from the Grotto,  it's a fifteen minute bus ride through winding mountain roads. 

The athletic and adventurous types can hike or even bike up the summit but for those who are time and fitness challenged, a ride up the 100-year old funicular is the fastest and easiest way up Pic du Jer.

There are many compartments in the funicular and it was not at all crowded on this Saturday morning. Of course the first compartment is always the first to be occupied -- everyone wants that  front row seat as the funicular climbs the mountain.

The way up is steep and gives you  green, woody views. Enjoy the views while you can, as it takes just a few minutes to climb the 1,000 meters to the summit. 

Before we reached the station, we saw these cyclists trudging up the bike path.  The reward for this thigh busting climb is the exciting descent down Pic du Jer where they can hurtle down the same path they just toiled on.  Pic du Jer is a popular place for mountain bikers to conquer and there are regular MTB races on the 3 kilometre  trail. 

The views at the top are splendid -- just as promised.  Down below are  towns of the Gaves Valley which include Lourdes, Tarbes and Pau.  On the left are the peaks of the Pyrenees mountain range. 

If you will peer very closely, there are still some snow capped peaks even during summer. 

There is a bench perched very close to the edge of the cliff.  I gingerly hold on and take a seat.  There should be a rail but that would mar the amazing view.  I dangle my feet perilously close to the brink and am thankful that it would take quite a strong gust of wind to blow me off the mountain.

Aside from the funicular ride and the astonishing views, the top of Pic du Jer boasts of caves that go back to the Ice Age. There are guided tours during the day but we were an hour early for the first tour.  A statue in front represents how the cave dwellers looked like, thousands of years ago. 

The funicular was less crowded on the way down and we were able to get a good view from the first compartment.  We passed another carriage on the way up - at mid point the tracks split into two to allow two cars to pass each other. 

On the way back to the Grotto, no buses were in sight so we decided to walk.  

Since the bus ride to Pic du Jer took all of 15 minutes, we thought we would be in for quite a slog.  Big surprise -- there was a direct route back which was not even 2 kilometres long.  

We enjoyed walking by the clean, swift flowing Gave River which also runs through the Grotto and which gives the valley its name. 

Lourdes, at the foothills of the Pyrenees is just 145 kilometres to St Jean Pied de Port, the 

southern town of France that marks the start of the Camino Frances, the UNESCO World 

Heritage route to Santiago de Compostela.  

We saw markers along the road pointing the way for walking and even cycling pilgrims who 

decide to incorporate Lourdes into their Camino. 

I thought it was a gift -- a grace to see the familiar flecha or yellow arrows that are the symbol of the pilgrimage.  They brought back many happy memories of the Camino which we did in 2015.

All too soon, the open riverside vistas  incorporated hotels and inns -- all of which are here to handle the tens of thousands of pilgrims who visit the Grotto.

So many of them line the riverbanks.  Beside that white building, fourth from the left, is the staircase that led directly to our hotel.  What a charming and easy walk that was!

Before leaving for the train station we paid one last visit to Our Lady.  We climbed up the ramp to 

the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception at the very top before we made our way own to the Crypt and finally to the Rosary Basilica. 

I first visited Lourdes with my parents more than forty years ago.  I did not think I would see it again but we were able to visit in 2015, after we completed our Camino.  

To be able to visit for a third time, to experience this serene and peaceful place once again is truly a blessing.  I cannot think otherwise, I believe this visit is a gift from Our Lady of Lourdes.

Soon, we were back at the Gare de Lourdes to take our train back to Paris.  

Many visitors come for just a quick visit, we are thankful we had a day and a half (although it felt much shorter than that!).

If there is a next time, it would be nice to stay a few days and spend more time both in the 

Grotto and in exploring the delightful small towns and villages of the Gave Valley.  Perhaps even venturing all the way to St Jean Pied de Port? After all it is probably just a couple of hours away by train. 

The fast TGV train would take us back to Paris Gare du Nord in just over five hours -- 

time enough to relax and perhaps even snooze in the comfortable and spacious seats.  

This short trip to Lourdes was extra special because we had Martina with us -- we were able to take her to the baths and visit and pray at the Sanctuary.

Merci beaucoup, Notre Dame de Lourdes!

Traveling with Kids Tip #5

Sitting in a train for over five hours for an 8 year old can be tiresome.  Unlike in a plane, there are no personal video consoles.  To pass the time and keep her from fidgeting, I made sure to point out interesting sights as we passed along -- windmills, wheat fields, quaint train stations, enchanting farm houses with lovely gardens  -- sights she had not seen before. We  also took a lot of videos of scenes along the way so she could show them to her parents once she got back home.   

We also had a bag of snacks handy -- cookies and chips kept us from having to buy the overpriced items in the dining car. 

Travels with Martina Day 4 - A weekend in Lourdes

With so many places to see and things to do in Paris and just two weeks to cram everything in, you may wonder --  why even go away for a week-end then?  But I had planned a very special getaway, out of the city, on our first week-end in Paris.  We would travel nearly 700 kilometres to the pilgrimage town of Lourdes, in the south of France. 

The fast and direct train to Lourdes still takes a good five hours and it leaves from 
Gare Montparnasse, located in the 14th arrondisement.  The station, set inside a block long
concrete building  is squat and ungainly and utterly charmless.   It is right across
Tour Montparnasse, the modern and also charmless skyscraper that every Parisian loves to hate. 

Trains depart from tracks located in Hall 1, one escalator ride up from street level.
We took the 6:25 a.m. train and arrived well ahead of time.  Gare Montparnasse serves the southwestern region of France so it was not a surprise to find a good number of early birds,
all rushing for their trains.  Aside from Lourdes, trains go to Bordeaux, Brittany, Biarritz  and 
one can even travel all the way to the French-Spanish border where there are connections to
San Sebastian and even Lisbon.

The Lourdes week-end was definitely not a spur of the moment plan -- I had booked our train tickets months in advance so we were able to secure first class tickets that were even cheaper than second class fares.  

All aboard the TGV INOUI 8571!  Wide and comfortable seats with charging docks, more than
ample legroom, even wifi -- it was a long ride but a most comfortable one! Thank you SNCF!

The SNCF high speed trains run just as fast as Japan's shinkansen -- at top speeds of more than 300 kilometres per hour.   Five hours passed in a literal blur of countryside vistas and glimpses of urban stations and soon,  we arrived at Gare de Lourdes.  To get into town, take a taxi or shuttle van, there are many just waiting outside the station.

For our one night in Lourdes, we stayed at the Hotel Angelic Myriam along Rue du Calvaire.  

Located on a higher portion of the town,  it is a ten minute walk down to the Grotto. 
An outdoor lift  makes going to and from the hotel a whole lot easier and quicker. 

We arrived in Lourdes  at lunchtime and there was no doubt where I wanted to have my first meal ... at Asian Delices along Rue Saint Marie.  This is a Filipino restaurant that has been in Lourdes for over a decade, bringing Pinoy cuisine to this quite distant part of France.

Madame Gina Lat Rousset is the chef and proprietress.    You will be happily surprised to see that her restaurant is full of non-Pinoys enjoying  chicken pork adobo, lumpia (vegetarian version available), pancit, sinigang, bistek,  lechon kawali atbp.  Gina's warm and welcoming personality makes everyone, regardless of nationality, feel right at home in her spacious and comfortable restaurant. 

After lunch, time to head to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, a sprawling 51-hectare complex that includes the Basilicas, the baths, the Grotto and several churches and buildings.  Here are Jay and Martina in Rosary Square in front of the Rosary Basilica.

The Grotto of Massabielle is where Our Lady appeared to St Bernadette.  Compared to the grandeur of the other buildings in the Sanctuary, the Grotto is very simple and has been left  untouched as much as possible.  The only additions are a plain stone altar and pews.   
There is always a long line of pilgrims at the Grotto but despite the crowds, it  retains its air of solemnity and spirituality. 

We wanted to take the baths at Lourdes -- something that I had not been able to do in my previous visits.  The people at the information office were not very encouraging, they said that if the lines were too long,  we may not be able to get in as the sick and disabled were given priority. 
But we discovered that there was a line,  much shorter,  specifically for children and their guardians so Martina and I were able to experience the baths after a not too long wait.

After our time at the baths --  thanks to the many volunteers from all nationalities who 

made us feel welcome and comfortable -- we visited the Rosary Basilica.  We also bought

votive candles to offer in thanksgiving and for intentions of  family and friends. 

It had been a long and tiring day and the excitement, the long train ride and the intense summer heat only worsened Martina's sore throat -- she was down for the count at the end of the day.  

But we both agreed that the highlight of the trip was our amazing bath at the holy waters of Lourdes.  

Being able to do so despite the extremely long queues and the peak season crowds was a gift -- bestowed on us by Our Lady of Lourdes. 

Traveling with Kids Tip #4

A religious pilgrimage may not be what an 8 year old would look forward to.  But we made sure that even before we left,  Martina knew about how Our Lady appeared to this young French girl -- only fourteen years old and not much older than her.   If put in terms that they can relate to and understand,  children will gladly embrace experiences they would normally not be interested in.